Painting a Chassis

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Dave_F · #1 Post by **Dave_F** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 11:08 am

Hi All,

Looking for some advice...

As some of you know I am rebuilding a Series 1 86" and this past weekend finally got the truck stripped to the chassis which is in remarkable shape.

All it will take is a little wire brushing to get the surface rust off. No need for sandblasting...although it would be nice, I just don't have the blaster...so straight to paint I will go.

The question is should I prime it with something, then apply a coat or tow of Tremclad or just go straight to the Tremclad?

Ideally I would like a paint that is thick enough to hide some of the imperfections in the chassis surface as Tremclad goes on fairly thin. I've thought of POR15 but it is fairly pricey and this rebuild is on a budget.

Any ideas????

davran · #2 Post by **davran** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 11:20 am

A friend and I did my old MGB with POR15 and it's never rusted out. We used a wirebrush on a wheel and a hand brush whereever else I couldn't get. Every few years I hear from the present owner and rust isn't a problem.

POR15 is expensive but worth it IMHO.

I've heard that media blasting with nut shells is the best way to strip a frame, but I have no experience with this.

red90 · #3 Post by **red90** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 11:46 am

Series 1 chassis should be galvanized, no?

If you want to paint galv, then you need some really good prep and an etching primer.

Personally I've not found POR-15 very good. It is nearly impossible to prep well enough for it to stay stuck. I've gotten rust through in one season even with a sand blasted item. Running winter where they put gravel and salt on the roads is the real test and it failed on all accounts for me.

Dave_F · #4 Post by **Dave_F** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 12:02 pm

red90 wrote:Series 1 chassis should be galvanized, no?

If you want to paint galv, then you need some really good prep and an etching primer.

Personally I've not found POR-15 very good. It is nearly impossible to prep well enough for it to stay stuck. I've gotten rust through in one season even with a sand blasted item. Running winter where they put gravel and salt on the roads is the real test and it failed on all accounts for me.

Only the early pre-production 50 Series 1 80" had galvanized chassis from what I have read. Mine is definitely not galvanized.

I have heard both good and bad regarding POR15...As I have a garage, re-coating with Tremclad is the easiest as I have done this with both my now departed Series 3 and my current Defender. Yes you need to touch up once a year but that's no biggy in my book.

sailourboy · #5 Post by **sailourboy** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 1:41 pm

Hi Dave

My understanding regarding rusting chassis is that the worse of it is caused by rusting from the inside out. On the 101 site I lurk on it has been discussed many times and will try to find the link for you.
Cheers
Ted

TOLON · #6 Post by **TOLON** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 1:46 pm

If your looking for something to rustproof and cover the chassis imperfections maybe try Waxoyl?

Rob · #7 Post by **Rob** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 1:48 pm

I've dome this type of work a couple of times. once on a series 1 107 and then on a 109 2A. What I did one the 107 was wire brush and apply a rust inhibitor/converter and paint over it with a General Paint enamel rust paint (General makes some awesome and tough commercial paints that can be brushed or rolled on).

On the 109 I had it media blasted then primed with a zinc-based primer and then covered with a two-part paint (Endura). In both cases I had the inside of the chassis waxoiled to reduce future rusting.

I've also painted steel sailboats using both Petit brand enamel marine paint and it gives a very smooth and durable finish applied with a roller then smoothed with a brush.

Dave_F · #8 Post by **Dave_F** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 3:07 pm

Rob....

Who did your Waxoil...or did you do it yourself?

Where did you get it from?

DaveB · #9 Post by **DaveB** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 3:40 pm

Hi Dave,

I would treat it with Rust-Mort first, which does a chemical reaction to remove any surface rust that may be lurking around. Basically an inhibitor like Rob is suggesting. The finish comes out as a matt black, however this in itself will not protect against future rusting. Follow this with a good application of a high-zinc primer, then Tremclad or other rust paint.

Rust-Mort is available at Lordco.

cheers, Dave

Rob · #10 Post by **Rob** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 5:17 pm

I had the work done by a body shop... both times I looked into doing it myself as there are lots of recipes for warm chain saw oil and a toilet wax ring to DIY it but considering the awful mess it could make I decided it was worth having the body shop do it and keep my driveway, shop, wife's car and neighbourhood waxoil free. :D

Dave_F · #11 Post by **Dave_F** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 9:56 pm

Dave wrote:Hi Dave,

I would treat it with Rust-Mort first, which does a chemical reaction to remove any surface rust that may be lurking around. Basically an inhibitor like Rob is suggesting. The finish comes out as a matt black, however this in itself will not protect against future rusting. Follow this with a good application of a high-zinc primer, then Tremclad or other rust paint.

Rust-Mort is available at Lordco.

cheers, Dave

Thanks tonall for their thoughts...Dave why would you use a high zinc primer if the rust mort is an inhibitor?

DaveB · #12 Post by **DaveB** » Mon Nov 07, 2011 11:35 pm

Rust Mort is more of a killer/neutralizer. The high zinc primer acts as the new sacrificial coating that will oxidize before the steel does, and the paint on top is to resist oxygen getting at it in the first place.

However, all of this may be unnecessary based on the fact that we are only able to access the outside of the chassis, and not the inside. The only way to really do the inside is with hot dipped galvanizing on new metal, or wax oil (although not in the same league as galvanizing) to maintain or slow down the rust on the inside of older frames.

D

ANDYD · #13 Post by **ANDYD** » Tue Nov 08, 2011 12:01 am

Dave,

Looks like your Christmas present (to your self) this year will be a visit to Silver City;

http://roverlanders.bc.ca/roverforum/vi ... ilver+city

Do it once, do it right! inside and out! :happy11:

David V · #14 Post by **David V** » Tue Nov 08, 2011 8:35 am

Dave,

I just completed a series III frame refurbishment. Call me at 604 465 5484 and I'll give you all the details. Too much to write here.

LandyAndy · #15 Post by **LandyAndy** » Tue Nov 08, 2011 5:55 pm

Hi Dave,

My local body shop has quoted me ~$500 to blast & prime my 80" frame for me ready for repairs & the front spring conversion. I understand your on a budget but I think that the frame is one area that saving a few $ is just not worth it in the long run. The rust will come back at some point in the future if it's not completely removed from the outside of the frame.

Spend a bit more here & reap the rewards down the road with better resale value & less ongoing frame maintenance.

Cheers,
Andy

Bern B · #16 Post by **Bern B** » Tue Nov 08, 2011 8:17 pm

Dave

I had a 88" series II frame sandblasted at Mayfair Industrial for $175 and then hot dipped at Silver City for about $200 to $250

How much does paint cost?

good luck
Bernie

LandyAndy · #17 Post by **LandyAndy** » Tue Nov 08, 2011 8:49 pm

Bern B wrote:Dave

I had a 88" series II frame sandblasted at Mayfair Industrial for $175 and then hot dipped at Silver City for about $200 to $250

How much does paint cost?

good luck
Bernie

My local shop charges $150/hr for heavy blasting, that includes the blasting media, he didn't break the paint cost out as it was a 'budget' quote. Next nearest blaster is in Salmon Arm, so would need to add a 3hr round trip to go there.

Dave_F · #18 Post by **Dave_F** » Tue Nov 08, 2011 9:07 pm

As much as I would like to go the galvanized route...

This is a budget rebuild, and I am not planning on pulling the drive train or axles...at this point :? ...so rustproofing and painting will be the order of the day.

If in the future my son decides he really likes his Series 1 then he can pull it apart again and get the frame galvanized.

http://www3.telus.net/shade/Series%201/image008.jpg

I was examining it again today and really it is very, very solid with only lite surface rust. I will need to have some welding done, bulkhead outriggers and door posts...but that's about it.

I discovered today that there are quite a few shops that will inject waxyoil...so I will topcoat with something very resistant like POR15 and get it injected, but that will be it.

http://www3.telus.net/shade/Series%201/image006.jpg

My poor Defender 110 is feeling neglected, standing out in the pouring rain while this old interloper Rover occupies his garage spot... :cry:

Things I need to purchase...
Shocks all around
Brakes cylinders, and shoes (all)
Brake Lines
Master Cylinder
Misc. Springs, clips
New loom (probably will do my own or buy one from Autosparks)
Carb rebuild kit
All new track rod ends
...and I'm sure I will find some more bits and pieces that I need.

Things I still need to salvage from Donor Rover that is sitting in my driveway.
Carb
Fuel tank
Steering arms
breakfast- Rad-Shroud
RH Wing
Rear Tub
Roof and side Panels

...so you can see that I really need to get cracking and get the chassis sorted so I can start reassembling...

Thanks for all the suggestions they have been very helpfull.

Cheers

red90 · #19 Post by **red90** » Wed Nov 09, 2011 5:26 am

Just get it galvanized. It is not expensive,

rayhyland · #20 Post by **rayhyland** » Wed Nov 09, 2011 7:20 am

red90 wrote:Just get it galvanized. It is not expensive,

He is not stripping it all the way down. The drivetrain and axles are not coming off.

Bill E. · #21 Post by **Bill E.** » Wed Nov 09, 2011 9:56 am

Hi Dave,
As much as I'm a big proponent of galvanizing I understand your desire for a Tremclad tune-up :)

Like Rob, I've had very good results with the rust converting products like "Rust Mort" followed by Tremclad gloss paint. The gloss has proven to be more durable than the matt finish in my experience. As he mentioned in an earlier post Dave Vervaet has just completed a restoration of his Lightweight chassis and it looks great. Dave V. had to do quite a bit of patching and grinding but the final Tremclad finish looks great. Dave B's comment about zinc primer is good advice but it's all a matter of degree on a fast and dirty resto IMHO.

Lots of Dave's in this thread :roll: thought I'd add my 2 cents.

Oh, by the way Dave F., thanks for the Login free photos!

red90 · #22 Post by **red90** » Wed Nov 09, 2011 11:02 am

rayhyland wrote:He is not stripping it all the way down. The drivetrain and axles are not coming off.

Yes, well, I can see where he is at and a few hours would have the rest of the bits off.

Dave_F · #23 Post by **Dave_F** » Wed Nov 09, 2011 5:26 pm

red90 wrote:
rayhyland wrote:He is not stripping it all the way down. The drivetrain and axles are not coming off.
Yes, well, I can see where he is at and a few hours would have the rest of the bits off.

Red90...So you want to come and help me?

A few hours...ha...when was the last time you spent removing bolts from a 55 year old warhorse?

LandyAndy · #24 Post by **LandyAndy** » Wed Nov 09, 2011 8:02 pm

Dave_F wrote:
red90 wrote:
Yes, well, I can see where he is at and a few hours would have the rest of the bits off.
Red90...So you want to come and help me?

A few hours...ha...when was the last time you spent removing bolts from a 55 year old warhorse?

What..... it only takes a few mins with a zip disk :D

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