Ex MOD 110, 1991, blah, blah, blah... ;)
Discovery 300TDI dropped into it.
Alternator is relatively new, less then a year old.
I'm getting 14.28-14.3V to the battery. Good.
I'm getting 13.8V to the fuse panel. Bad?
Also as time goes by and the truck gets hot the volts drop on the volt meter but not to the battery...
Is this normal?
Andrew
VOLTS! Where'd they go?
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andrewMcF
- Crank Case
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red90
- Defender of the World
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Re: VOLTS! Where'd they go?
The connection to the harness with the alternator and battery leads should be at the starter solenoid terminal. I would start there, by removing the connector, cleaning them up and making sure they are secure. Unless the conversion did something different....
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harv
- Maxi Drive
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Re: VOLTS! Where'd they go?
On my P38, even after cleaning all the connections between the alternator and battery, I was losing about volt. I tried adding a larger cable directly from the alternator to the battery as a troubleshooting measure. This worked, so I left the heavier cable in and it works great. I suspect the Land Rover cables were only marginally large enough to carry the load when new. Maybe a new or larger cable will help your rig as well? Good luck.
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radio_05
- Gently Used Condition
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Re: VOLTS! Where'd they go?
A voltage drop like that is likely one of two things, both of which I've seen.
A bad ground in the vehicle, likely bulkhead harness chassis connection, and perhaps battery or engine connection. the dash cabling grounds to the bulkhead, which in turn grounds to the chassis through existing bolts or bonding braid.
I've seen cleaned contacts on really poor positive supply leads to battery from alternator, where the inside of the heavy copper in the old insulated cable has been diminished. This may have been due to past reverse polarity electric arc ,or corrosion.
I built the new positive lead myself, but wasn't happy with the results. This part is orderable Britpart.
As the costs of a newer battery and DC cables are relatively low, and the cost of a residential garage fire is relatively high, it makes sense to ensure your current carrying cables and battery have been inspected and renewed.
I have had trouble with fuse panel contacts being corroded and wiring being brittle and tired on the glass fuse harnesses too.
I have been pleased with replacement harnesses from the UK, where needed.
There should have been no conversion on a 1991 110. Even if FFR the 12V and 24V systems were separate, with no 24V used for the vehicle.
A bad ground in the vehicle, likely bulkhead harness chassis connection, and perhaps battery or engine connection. the dash cabling grounds to the bulkhead, which in turn grounds to the chassis through existing bolts or bonding braid.
I've seen cleaned contacts on really poor positive supply leads to battery from alternator, where the inside of the heavy copper in the old insulated cable has been diminished. This may have been due to past reverse polarity electric arc ,or corrosion.
I built the new positive lead myself, but wasn't happy with the results. This part is orderable Britpart.
As the costs of a newer battery and DC cables are relatively low, and the cost of a residential garage fire is relatively high, it makes sense to ensure your current carrying cables and battery have been inspected and renewed.
I have had trouble with fuse panel contacts being corroded and wiring being brittle and tired on the glass fuse harnesses too.
I have been pleased with replacement harnesses from the UK, where needed.
There should have been no conversion on a 1991 110. Even if FFR the 12V and 24V systems were separate, with no 24V used for the vehicle.