The Rover-Landers of BC

After my 2" lift, I had a bad pinion angle that chewed up Roto Flex's.

I also had a loud "clunk" when shifting into reverse.

Today I decided to fix the problem.

I raised the "A" arms 2 1/4" & moved the Fulcrum Ball Joint to the rear 2".

I also changed the Fulcrum Ball Joint with a new adjustable one.

Before pinion angle
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/ ... sco001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/ ... sco006.jpg

New pinion angle
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/ ... era006.jpg

Heres how I did it.

Started with a 6"x6"x 2 1/2" thick block of steel & 2 pieces of 2 1/2" x 5/8" flat bar.
2 - 1/2" x 6 1/2" Bolts for the "A" Frame
2 - 1/2" x 4 1/2" Bolts for the Fulcrum

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/ ... pinion.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/ ... era003.jpg

New adjustable Ball Joint.
As the Ball Joint becomes loose, you simply knock out the side indents, turn the tapper inside cup & punch in the indents.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/ ... aframe.jpg

Fulcrum with new Ball Joint
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/ ... era002.jpg

I bolted the Block to the "A" Frame Arms & the Side Plates to the Fulcrum.
I then adjusted the Fulcrum Ball Joint angle & tacked the Block to the Side Plates .
(Leave enough room from the top of the Side Plates to the "A" Frame Arms for a min 3/8" weld.)

I then removed the bolts from the "A" Frame Arms & removed the Fulcrum Ball Joint from the Rear Diff., leaving the Fulcrum bolted the the Side Plates.

I first welded the ends of the Side Plates to the Block & then layed a 1/4" weld along the top of the Side Plates.
Remove the bolts & the Fulcrum will fall out.
I then stood the end of the Fulcrum 90` to give room to weld the inside of the Side Plates.
I did a 1/4" stitch weld on the inside of the bars.
This of course sucked the Side Bars in so tight that the Fulcrum would not come out.

I then layed another pass on the top of the Side Plates to give it a 1/2" bead which inturn pulled the Side Plates out enough to easily remove the Fulcrum.

Coat all bolts with Anti-Seize, bolt everything together & "Done Like Dinner!"

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/ ... era004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v493/ ... era005.jpg

Really a 2in lift killed your rotoflex seems odd. I have not had any issues with OME heavy duty lift springs. And second why keep the rotoflex anyway,get the kit and a range rover drive shaft and get it done.

It was a combination of the lift & a worn ball joint.

I put in 50mm HD springs that gave me 2 1/2" lift over what it was.

I have the kit & drive shaft, but have decided to stay with the Roto Flex for a few reasons .

1. It'll fail easier than a u-joint without the carnage. Most times when a u-joint has let go on me, it takes the drive shaft or pinion ears with it.

2. Roto flex takes up some of the load shock of wheel spin & therefore less transmitted to the rear axle shafts.

3. I can change a Roto Flex in the field in about 10mins with only 2 wrenches.