1957 109 LHD Canadian - Grover

[SouthbankShawn]

Hi!
From the banks of beautiful Francois Lake, BC, thought I would introduce myself and my project, a 57 109 truck with the 2 L petrol engine.
I’m new to Land Rovers, but have learned a lot in the last week since I dragged Grover out from underneath a poplar tree in Burns Lake, BC.
Grover was driven up from the lower mainland in 1998, but spent the next 23 years in the exact same spot.
She came to me through an estate sale. She also came with a lot of spare parts, I’ve included some in the attached photos. I plan on getting her running, but leaving mostly as is. She has been fitted with a wing/guard/fender from a 107 on the passenger side, if I ever come across one with a matching patina I’ll probably change that!
I’m getting ready to try and fire her up this weekend. The fuel pump is currently being rebuilt by my senior Mennonite neighbor who I think is just as excited as I am!
Look forward to being part of this community, and advice most welcome!

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[RobinS]

Welcome to the club, My Dad had one just like it with the one piece doors. I wish he hadn't sold it. Keep us posted wit your progress. Cheers Robin

[mepham55]

Nice truck! I’ve got a very similar 1955 107” here in Victoria. I picked it up 2 years ago in a similar state to yours. I managed to repair my ripped open passenger side wing well enough to match the “patina” of the rest of the truck.

Matt

[webmaster]

Welcome aboard Shawn. You may want to join our Rover-Landers of BC club. It gives you our tri-annual club newsletter, access to the members only forum section and the members directory, listing who owns what vehicles. These are valuable resources, especially for new "Roverfiles". Click on our logo at the top of the screen, select the membership tab and follow the instructions.

[SouthbankShawn]

Welcome to the club, My Dad had one just like it with the one piece doors. I wish he hadn't sold it. Keep us posted wit your progress. Cheers Robin

Thanks! It’s a departure from the Chevy’s and Jeep’s I’ve toyed with in the past, but I certainly am starting to understand the appeal! I organized some of the spare parts I got as part of deal by ‘assembling’ a spare engine on a stand. I’ve haven’t got it all figured out yet, but the design is rock solid, no wonder they run forever!
Oh i know the oil pan is on backwards…. There’s a bent stud on the corner and it fit better this way! At least it’s off the floor! Also, I’m not sure that bottom pulley is correct……

[SouthbankShawn]

Nice truck! I’ve got a very similar 1955 107” here in Victoria. I picked it up 2 years ago in a similar state to yours. I managed to repair my ripped open passenger side wing well enough to match the “patina” of the rest of the truck.

Matt

That’s a great looking truck! Do you drive it year round on the island? Does yours have what I have heard referred to as two-piece doors?

Shawn

[SouthbankShawn]

Welcome aboard Shawn. You may want to join our Rover-Landers of BC club. It gives you our tri-annual club newsletter, access to the members only forum section and the members directory, listing who owns what vehicles. These are valuable resources, especially for new "Roverfiles". Click on our logo at the top of the screen, select the membership tab and follow the instructions.

Excellent thank you!

[mepham55]

That’s a great looking truck! Do you drive it year round on the island? Does yours have what I have heard referred to as two-piece doors?

Shawn
[/quote]

Yes, my truck has the 2 piece doors or removable door tops for a more accurate description. I have it insured for the year and have been using it as my daily runabout around town for the last 4 months. It still needs some love but it’s a blast to drive.

Matt

[RobinS]

Regarding that drive flange on your crankshaft , Landrovers were so versatile in the days of the series vehicles it could have driven any number of devices. At first I thought it was for a capstan winch driveline but it has the wrong hole spacing for the three pin coupler. With the military blue colour of some of your engine parts , it could have been for a piece of military kit.

[SouthbankShawn]

Regarding that drive flange on your crankshaft , Landrovers were so versatile in the days of the series vehicles it could have driven any number of devices. At first I thought it was for a capstan winch driveline but it has the wrong hole spacing for the three pin coupler. With the military blue colour of some of your engine parts , it could have been for a piece of military kit.

Interesting! I’ll check the motor in the truck, there was also a winch included with my sale, I haven’t looked at it closely yet to determine how it connects, it’s a Koenig.

[bsa_m21]

The Koenig winch you have is driven off the front of the engine via a dog clutch. That’s what the lug on the crankshaft is for. The big, and only serious, issue with this drive arrangement are idiots trying to engage it while the engine is running and breaking the engine crankshaft.

[SouthbankShawn]

Good to know! Sounds like a neat piece of engineering, I’ll have to open up that gearbox and have a look!

[SouthbankShawn]

Ok - first, let me say this. I know this find has pegged me as being more lucky than smart, and I wouldn’t debate that. But, I feel like I should say that before I entered into the Land Rover world, I definitely paid my automotive hobby dues! I’ve had my heart broken by a 73 corvette project that I had to let go of because the necessary frame repairs were beyond my skills, even though I had it driving vey well, and I lost my shirt on a 79 square body by overbuilding another 454 V8 and then having to sell the truck before it killed me. So, I feel like I have earned some due luck, and apparently Grover is going to deliver. As per the attached video (YouTube links) she started up tonight without much fuss once I was able to get fuel to the carb with the new pump. As you will see there is probably something sticking that is not regulating fuel flow, but she starts, runs, and purrs enter than she should for a 60+ year old vehicle that hasn’t fired up in 20 years. And I couldn’t be happier!! :bounce:

First start
Second start

Ok I’m not sure how to post links…..

[bsa_m21]

Good to know! Sounds like a neat piece of engineering, I’ll have to open up that gearbox and have a look!

Don’t be surprised if you find a rusty chain and evidence of past repairs. Every one I’ve opened up has been busted and fixed at least once. 🤫

[Tony4921]

Great to see an old engine start up like that. Is that oil pressure gauge accurate, if so that seems kind of low for a cold engine. Is that with a new oil filter & oil? I would do some investigating before running it too much. Its safer to plumb in a temporary new oil pressure gauge to get an accurate reading, and its fairly easy to adjust the releif valve if neccesary.
I do have the wings you messaged me about. Keep posting the updates on your progress, good luck.

[SouthbankShawn]

Great to see an old engine start up like that. Is that oil pressure gauge accurate, if so that seems kind of low for a cold engine. Is that with a new oil filter & oil? I would do some investigating before running it too much. Its safer to plumb in a temporary new oil pressure gauge to get an accurate reading, and its fairly easy to adjust the releif valve if neccesary.
I do have the wings you messaged me about. Keep posting the updates on your progress, good luck.

Thanks for that advice, I was watching oil pressure and don’t think I can trust the gauge. The first start it was reading 50-60 psi, then on the second start was down to 20-30, but the engine was still cold.
The oil was new, but I haven’t changed the filter yet.
I think before I fire up again I will tear down and clean carb, drop oil pan and clean pump intake and screen, relief valve, change filter…. Etc.
I’ll get back to you on the wings, I’m going to keep focussing on mechanical soundness for now!

[Tony4921]

I have lots of spreadbore 2.0L parts also, blocks, head, cams, manifolds, oil pumps etc if you need anything.

[SouthbankShawn]

I have lots of spreadbore 2.0L parts also, blocks, head, cams, manifolds, oil pumps etc if you need anything.

Excellent thanks!

[SouthbankShawn]

Grover is back on the road! A couple questions.
My temp gauge reads around 130 F, shooting with an IR gun, temps range from 160:F on the block to 130 on rad discharge, so it’s in the ballpark. Just want to confirm that’s within the realm of temperature range possibility, or should I change sender and gauge?
Next question, down shifting. Grover doesn’t like it, double clutching and very low RPM match and it can be done, otherwise it’s grindy. Is that typical, or a sign of needed maintenance/pending failure? Fresh fluid in gearbox, SAE90.

[RobinS]

Not sure if you were aware but your gearbox is non syncro and double cutching is required. The downshift will just take some practice matching speeds

[SouthbankShawn]

Not sure if you were aware but your gearbox is non syncro and double cutching is required. The downshift will just take some practice matching speeds

I wasn’t aware! I’ve also been told that 1st and 2nd don’t have synchro-mesh, but with double clutching you can down shift from 4th to 3rd, which I am getting a little better at.
So can I also downshift from 3rd to 2nd with double clutching and practice?

Thanks!

[RobinS]

Shifting 3 to 4 and 4 to 3 is usually not a problem but you can shift all the lower gears with double clutching and matching revs. I remember learning on my Dad's series 2 when I was sixteen and it took me a while to get the hang of it. Cheers Robin

[TimberPig]

3rd and 4th are synchro but still like to be shifted smoothly. 1,2 and reverse are non synchro’d. Between 3 and 4 is the only one that won’t need to be double clutched.
If 3-4 is balking and needing double clutching, your technique may need more practice or you could have worn parts in the gearbox that need some work.

[SouthbankShawn]

Shifting 3 to 4 and 4 to 3 is usually not a problem but you can shift all the lower gears with double clutching and matching revs. I remember learning on my Dad's series 2 when I was sixteen and it took me a while to get the hang of it. Cheers Robin

I’m starting to get the hang of it! Thanks!

[SouthbankShawn]

3rd and 4th are synchro but still like to be shifted smoothly. 1,2 and reverse are non synchro’d. Between 3 and 4 is the only one that won’t need to be double clutched.
If 3-4 is balking and needing double clutching, your technique may need more practice or you could have worn parts in the gearbox that need some work.

Thanks! 3-4 is good, and my double clutching is coming along nicely!