My new to me series 1

[Wilfpower]

It is with great pleasure that I say I am the proud owner of a 1956 86” Series 1 Land Rover
She has a lot of work ahead but is overall very solid
Chevy motor has caused lots of unfortunate, but easily enough rectified problems such as the front crossmember has been cut out, the shackles are over length..
Bulkhead will need some love, but is well worth fixing, and one outrigger needs replacing.
I have no previous Land Rover experience , thankfully I am an enthusiastic learner, doer, welder, maker, tinkerer, machinist,fabricator. At a loss for any more useful words so just look at the pictures
Also pleas note, my intention with this Rover is to return it to its original RAF blue colour, replace the front crossmember, replace the inline 6 Chevy with a 2.25 petrol(or possibly an iron Duke 4 cylinder....) and return the headlights to the Breakfast(correct usage of term?) and push the grill back to the iconic series Land Rover look..... if any of that makes any sense :roll:

[Tony4921]

Hi, nice project. If you need any parts, I have 3 parts S1's. I also have a fully rebuilt 2 1/4 if you need one.

[ANDYD]

Hi and welcome,

Good to see another S1 being rebuilt and saved :D
I have been restoring a 1956 S1 for the past few years and its very rewarding to see the old girl come back to life!

For the engine, I would try to put a S1 2L Spreadbore or a later Rover 2.25L into it if possible, it will help it retain value and look more the part for sure 8)

Good luck, and keep us updated. Any questions feel free to ask. Where are you located?

Cheers
Andy

[Wilfpower]

Hi Tony, luckily it appears to be not missing too much but I will keep you in mind when I do realize what I need, and that rebuilt 2 1/4 will be on my mind as well...Thank you

Andy, you are very right about the correct look and quite frankly I forgot how much I was looking forward to another brithsh engine. I own a 1966 Triumph Tiger 650 and love it to peices, it sure wouldn’t be the same with a Honda motor...


As far as an update goes: today I got both wings off and cleaned a whole lot of crud mud grease and a mouse house out and off of things. The bulkhead is in a whole lot better shape than I first thought! Frame has some issues but appears to be very solid... we’l see haha

[Wilfpower]

Ok this week I got a few little things done. I started to see if I could get the Chevy motor running. Ran a basic wiring harness to avoid a fire in and amongst the mess of new and old wires. I managed to get the motor turning but was not getting spark.

It was at this point I realized I have so desire to spend any further energy on this motor that I really do not want!

So the motor removal process begins
I got the left hand side floor removed as well as the trans tunnel. Many of the original screws that hold the floor on were replaced with really long and now rusted bolts. So far I have had to cut two off and I expect more with the right hand side floor. Oh well I am really excited to start making this Land Rover correct again.

More pictures and stories to follow tonight when the motor is out!

[Wilfpower]

More photos
Still learning how to navigate the forum and such.

[tygre]

I've got a couple of project 2.0L engines if you're looking. I might be interested in the gearbox/adapter that was used for the chevy engine if you are getting rid of it.
PM sent.

[bsa_m21]

A 2.0L “spreadbore” IOE motor is the correct motor for this truck, but a 2.25L OHV is a stronger and less expensive motor to rebuild. For originality, get a 2.0L. For a better driver, go with the 2.25. IMHO 😁

M

[Wilfpower]

Alright here we have it! Staring to look more proper.
The motor came out with no troubles
There is a homemade dual starter motor system attached to the Chevy motor, quite interesting and I have to wonder why?!
Stay tuned

[RobinS]

Love the series one and looking forward to following your build.

[Wilfpower]

Here are some photos!

[bsa_m21]

The flywheel housing definitely looks like a series 1 housing that’s been adapted to to the Chevy by drilling extra holes and adding some material to fill in a lower part of the inner central hole. Only series ones had that inspection plate for timing marks on the flywheel.

M

[Wilfpower]

Hello all, it has been “a while” and I have been busy.
I regrettably get tunnel vision and find it hard to document processes that are not necessary ie how something went togeather.

I have, since my last post, mended the worst of the rust in my bulkhead.( I don’t imagine it’s possible to get all of it..) This being the foot wells and er we’ll see pictures.

I have also started surgery on my rusty bulkhead outrigger, those pictures I think I will post tomorrow in it’s complete form(I didn’t take any of it today! Bad at documenting....)

See pictures and give me grief, advice, perhaps thanks for restoring this wonderful piece of history.

[Wilfpower]

I like to recycle....
Is it alchemy to make an oil tank cross section a series one outrigger :roll:

[RobinS]

Most parts of the bulkhead are flat and not too difficult to duplicate at home but if you find the top rail under the rubber windscreen seal has rusted out , that part is available separately . It has a very intricate shape to fit the seal . That bulkhead will look great once painted. Did you find out the story behind that strange starter setup?

[Wilfpower]

Alrighty! We have a replaced bulkhead outrigger! It all worked out pretty well, the inside of my frame is so incredibly clean.... it has its faults but it is a gooder.

So having the bulkhead outrigger all new and happylike the bulkhead is a lot more sturdy and dosent wiggle separate to the chassis. Gosh that makes me happy!
So the “last” bit of rust in the bulkhead is in the top rail (Thanks RobinS for having me look there!) it’s thankfully not rotted out fully and just a portion of the tube seal holder thing needs replacing.
In regards to that funky dual starter motor setup, unfortunatly the story of the landy has been lost as it changed hands as a project many times. I’m still not sure how long it has been since this was a used driving vehicle. But ME NEXT!


Shout out to George Stewart for starting my Land Rover fire.

[ANDYD]

Great Progress! Looks like its summer time already in your photos


Keep up the good work 8)

[Wilfpower]

Although I have not been present on here, I have been working on my rover lots! It is starting to go back together now and that is a good feeling! I will see about posting more as things come along. Too bad I didnt take pictures after I painted the top of the chassis haha. I had the chassis flipped over to do some repairs.
I will post again soon. How do I get my steering relay to stop leaking :lol:

[RobinS]

You have made great progress. Just wanted to mention , I would get the wiring fished through the frame and out the hole at the rear while the bodywork is removed. It will save a lot of swearing at the end.

[Wilfpower]

Ok I have been working on the wiring harness- or more accurately I am working on drawing the harness and understanding what to do before I undertake the task of making it.
I have all this groovy cloth wire taken from old elevators (pays to be friends with an elevator dude!) We call it wizard wire and it looks sweet when you wire up an old motorcycle with it, or whatever its neat stuff!

I am however concerned it is not going to be up to the task of carrying the electricity as it should, what I mean is- Is this wire thick enough... heavy enough gauge :?

I know for the main wires from the battery to the ignition and such need to be bigger but what about all the little things like turn signal wires, tail/brake lights/ wires going to and coming from the turn signal switch

What about the headlights, I'm guessing they need to be more hefty..

I have spent a lot of time figuring this all out, changing the land rover colours to ones that I have in my selection and making drawings to help me understand what will go where and such.

Any help on this topic would be appreciated. thanks all

[Wilfpower]

more photos

[StuartL]

Nice to hear your project is progressing, you will really enjoy the vehicle once it is back on the road.

You might want to consider an aftermarket wiring loom from Autosparks https://www.autosparks.co.uk/finder/car ... r/series+1.

Every restoration I have been involved in we used their product.

Good luck and enjoy the process.

[Wilfpower]

Yes Stuart I did consider it, but then I wouldn't het to learn how to make my own beautiful harness.

Im kindof a glutton for punishment. Though that may go without saying given I have chosen series land rovers to be obsessed with.

[RobinS]

Here are the wiring diagrams from the series one manual

[RobinS]

Hi Wilf, I made very similar drawings and took plenty of pictures before ripping it all apart. These diagrams don't indicate wire sizes but my genuine harness was mainly 14 guage . There were a few 12 guage wires for the heavier current circuits. I wrapped the harness in cloth electrical tape for a more authentic look and was very happy with the final results. Hope this is helpful.