So I picked up a D1 a few months ago with a rotten body and sold off a bunch of parts. Then I wondered what to do with it and decided to look around for a Series body that I could adapt to make a V8 Series coiler. I picked up most of a Series 3 88" body and then a shared purchase of a complete 2A 88" with a rotten frame, banged up body and seized engine. OK, so the project begins....
S3 parts:
Series 2A:
Gutted Disco:
First step, get rid of the Disco body:
Then I power washed the frame and engine, and pushed it back into the carport where she will stay for a while.
I removed a bunch of lines and parts including the plastic fuel tank, which someone had punched a hole in the bottom to drain the fuel. Oh well, it wouldn't have worked with the series body as I have to shorten the frame anyhow.
Then all the Disco body mounts needed to be cut off. Before:
After:
Then I was off to pick up a set of series outriggers and doing a lot of measuring.
Series/Disco Hybrid Build
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bsa_m21
- Spanner Man
- Posts: 811
- Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:30 pm
- Location: Surrey, BC
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bsa_m21
- Spanner Man
- Posts: 811
- Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:30 pm
- Location: Surrey, BC
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
So last week I brought the S3 bulkhead and seat box home from my long term storage in a friends barn to start the mock up process.
The bulkhead S3 is going to need a lot of work including new footwells and other rust patching. The lower dash panel is fairly buggered. Completely rotten on the inside. I haven't decided yet if I am going to use the S3 bulkhead or the S2 bulkhead from the other truck for the final build. The S2 unit needs even more repair work than the S3 one, but does have a built in steel dash. One less item to have to deal with: However, as the truck is still fully assembled, the S3 unit will suffice for my mockup work.
The other day I received, from a fellow in Oregon who totalled his Disco, a hardly used set of spring mounts, dislocation cones, long shocks, & cranked trailing arms. Woo Hoo!
The bulkhead S3 is going to need a lot of work including new footwells and other rust patching. The lower dash panel is fairly buggered. Completely rotten on the inside. I haven't decided yet if I am going to use the S3 bulkhead or the S2 bulkhead from the other truck for the final build. The S2 unit needs even more repair work than the S3 one, but does have a built in steel dash. One less item to have to deal with: However, as the truck is still fully assembled, the S3 unit will suffice for my mockup work.
The other day I received, from a fellow in Oregon who totalled his Disco, a hardly used set of spring mounts, dislocation cones, long shocks, & cranked trailing arms. Woo Hoo!
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bsa_m21
- Spanner Man
- Posts: 811
- Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:30 pm
- Location: Surrey, BC
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
Last weekend I got busy straightening the bashed in and bent outrigger mount on the left side of the S3 bulkhead. Amazing how easy it is when you have a torch set to soften the metal. Before:
and after:
I borrowed a set of Series replacement bulkhead outriggers from a friend for my mock up. If I decided to use them, I'd buy him another set:
I jacked up the frame and removed one of the springs and let the frame settle onto the front axle. In order for the radius arm to clear the bottom of the outrigger, I would need to raise it about 2" up from what I thought would be the optimal location, and that would make the body sit that much higher. Reading up on UK forums that have hybrid sections (few and far between), that seems to be a common complaint. So I hopped into my Disco (my daily driver one) and drove up to Rocky Mountain Products in N. Van. and picked up a set of D90 bulkhead outriggers from Jeremy. While there I also grabbed a set of footwells and a rear cross member. Jeremy is great to deal with.
The D90 outriggers are from Britpart, and the right hand side one was too long by 1/8". Doesn't seem like much but try forcing the 1/2" mounting bolt through a tube into a 2nd tube that's mis-matched by that much. Doesn't work. At first I thought I would return them, but it was either raise the series ones, cut a notch into the series ones and weld in more metal (so I didn't have to raise them), or clean up the and trim the D90 ones. In the end I decided to use the D90 ones and proceeded to modify them.
Today I got energetic and started grinding, measuring, trial fitting, more grinding, welding in some metal (I love my Mig welder!) and finally fitting with the bulkhead. I decided to move them rearward on the frame and bolt the bulkhead to the front, rather than rear of the outriggers. This should, I hope provide me with more space for tire options in the future. Finally I started welding them to the frame. I got so engrossed I forgot to take pics until after I mocked up the seat box. So then I mocked up the seat box, front fender, hood and breakfast: That brings me up to today. Measuring the distance from the engine to the front, I guess I'm going to have to go with all electric rad fan cooling and S3 wings for lighting, irrespective of whether or not I use the S3 or S2 bulkhead in the end. Oh well. Now I just need to decide what to do for a rear tub....
The D90 outriggers are from Britpart, and the right hand side one was too long by 1/8". Doesn't seem like much but try forcing the 1/2" mounting bolt through a tube into a 2nd tube that's mis-matched by that much. Doesn't work. At first I thought I would return them, but it was either raise the series ones, cut a notch into the series ones and weld in more metal (so I didn't have to raise them), or clean up the and trim the D90 ones. In the end I decided to use the D90 ones and proceeded to modify them.
Today I got energetic and started grinding, measuring, trial fitting, more grinding, welding in some metal (I love my Mig welder!) and finally fitting with the bulkhead. I decided to move them rearward on the frame and bolt the bulkhead to the front, rather than rear of the outriggers. This should, I hope provide me with more space for tire options in the future. Finally I started welding them to the frame. I got so engrossed I forgot to take pics until after I mocked up the seat box. So then I mocked up the seat box, front fender, hood and breakfast: That brings me up to today. Measuring the distance from the engine to the front, I guess I'm going to have to go with all electric rad fan cooling and S3 wings for lighting, irrespective of whether or not I use the S3 or S2 bulkhead in the end. Oh well. Now I just need to decide what to do for a rear tub....
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oldgravy
- Captain Crunch
- Posts: 268
- Joined: Tue Aug 20, 2013 9:37 am
- Location: Surrey / Langley
- Contact:
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
Neat project. I probably have a well used 109 series tub available.
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deanc5
- Wing Nut
- Posts: 158
- Joined: Fri Sep 08, 2017 10:00 am
- Location: Swansea Point
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
Hi, I'm also building a series/disco hybrid right now but I am doing it the opposite way by using a series frame and modifying it to fit the disco suspension. My build log on this forum is called "1970 2a upgrades" (although I found out from icbc that it way last registered 30 years ago as a 1971 so previous owner was wrong about the year).
Anyway I just watched this 3 part video series by Britannica Restorations and learned a ton about how the series and defender bodies go together. Really worth the time to watch I would say. I've been following his channel and he's got a lot of good info. Also learned all about installing a new wiper motor today. There is a lot more to these things than you would think.
Just thought this info might help you as you place your outriggers etc. I know its helped me a lot.
Great project! Looking forward to seeing more.
Anyway I just watched this 3 part video series by Britannica Restorations and learned a ton about how the series and defender bodies go together. Really worth the time to watch I would say. I've been following his channel and he's got a lot of good info. Also learned all about installing a new wiper motor today. There is a lot more to these things than you would think.
Just thought this info might help you as you place your outriggers etc. I know its helped me a lot.
Great project! Looking forward to seeing more.
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bsa_m21
- Spanner Man
- Posts: 811
- Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:30 pm
- Location: Surrey, BC
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
I got busy Sunday afternoon and last night and relocated the 4x4 lever and extended the linkages. Seems to work fine. Next will be making some brackets for mounting the shift lever in front of the 4x4 lever.
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franko
- Out of Africa
- Posts: 421
- Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:15 am
- Location: Victoria BC
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
Looks like a ton of work, but a lot of fun as well. Looking forward to watching this build come along.
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bsa_m21
- Spanner Man
- Posts: 811
- Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:30 pm
- Location: Surrey, BC
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
Well it’s been a hectic few weeks, but I managed to squeeze in a few hours on the project. Thanks to a club member I acquired a S2 109 box in fairly decent shape.
(I had to put the dinghy back on the trailer after I brought the box home)
Then this past weekend I enlisted a cousin to help me load the box onto the Disco frame so I could see what needed to be done to make it work.
She lines up better than I had thought she would. Next comes figuring out what to do about the wheel wells, and where to cut off and weld on bits to make it all fit. .
(I had to put the dinghy back on the trailer after I brought the box home)
Then this past weekend I enlisted a cousin to help me load the box onto the Disco frame so I could see what needed to be done to make it work.
She lines up better than I had thought she would. Next comes figuring out what to do about the wheel wells, and where to cut off and weld on bits to make it all fit. .
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bsa_m21
- Spanner Man
- Posts: 811
- Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:30 pm
- Location: Surrey, BC
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
This weekend I welded on the Series (actually military) rear cross member and outriggers.
First I cut off the centre section of the Disco rear cross member. Then I cut and bent the ends of the frame rails horizontal to fit into the new series cross member. Test fitting. New cross member welded on. It clears the frame cross brace (barely) Hard to see, but there is enough space for a rubber insulator above the rear spring perch.
First I cut off the centre section of the Disco rear cross member. Then I cut and bent the ends of the frame rails horizontal to fit into the new series cross member. Test fitting. New cross member welded on. It clears the frame cross brace (barely) Hard to see, but there is enough space for a rubber insulator above the rear spring perch.
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bsa_m21
- Spanner Man
- Posts: 811
- Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:30 pm
- Location: Surrey, BC
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
Front of tub outrigger
I was originally planning to reuse the plastic Disco fuel tank under the tub, but in order to mount the tub as low as possible there isn’t enough space between the frame rail and bottom of the tub. Sigh.
Oh well. Guess I will have to weld up a metal tank instead.
I also plan to have a 2nd tank in the standard under right hand seat position and started test fitting it. Seemed to slide in ok Hmm going to have some clearance issues getting at the radius arm bolt though. I also started to fit the tailgate so I could weld on hinges to the rear cross member
(Yes, I bought a cheap one that didn’t have them pre welded on. :oops:
The power steering from the Disco still needs to be sorted out, but I don’t think that will be too difficult. Making progress!
Oh well. Guess I will have to weld up a metal tank instead.
I also plan to have a 2nd tank in the standard under right hand seat position and started test fitting it. Seemed to slide in ok Hmm going to have some clearance issues getting at the radius arm bolt though. I also started to fit the tailgate so I could weld on hinges to the rear cross member
(Yes, I bought a cheap one that didn’t have them pre welded on. :oops:
The power steering from the Disco still needs to be sorted out, but I don’t think that will be too difficult. Making progress!
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ANDYD
- Defender of the World
- Posts: 3075
- Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2004 10:45 pm
- Location: Sunny Steveston BC
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
Good steps forward, for sure a fun project.....
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bclandrover
- Out of Africa
- Posts: 401
- Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2004 11:21 pm
- Location: North Vancouver
- Contact:
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
Looking good Martin!
I hope that Radiator works out!
Thanks,
Don
I hope that Radiator works out!
Thanks,
Don
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bsa_m21
- Spanner Man
- Posts: 811
- Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:30 pm
- Location: Surrey, BC
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
Well it's a new year, so I guess I should provide some updates of progress since my last post in August..... :bounce:
So I have collected a collage of parts from several years of series vehicles - '62 S2 109 tub, '68 S2 88 parts vehicle, a bunch of '73 S3 88 body bits and the 1996 Disco that forms the basis of this build - to choose my parts from. The only ownerships I have are for the '62 S2 and the disco, so I will be registering the final build as a '62 S2 88. Hopefully the idiots (sorry, I meant helpful staff) at ICBC (the local government insurance we are forced to use) will not notice the 109 box... :oops:
After my last post I tried to decide whether to use the S3 bulkhead and dash or the bulkhead from the '68 S2. Personally I like the S2 style of interior, although there has to be a way to tidy up the demister hoses (more later). I had already mounted the S3 bulkhead before I got the S2 one, but I decided to see how difficult it would be to repair and use the S2 one. This is what it looked like before I started: However, after dismantling it and starting to cut out the rusty bits, it started to look like this: At which point I decided it was scrap and I would need to look for a "Plan B" solution and went back to the S3 bulkhead. At first it seemed like it would be a good solution. And it was not as rotted out as the S2 one, but still did have some rust issues... And after I pulled it apart, the console was completely rotted out. The only thing holding the paper thin or missing metal structure together was the foam insulation and imitation leather wrapping. Only the British would use plain painted sheet metal for a heating/cooling system.... And, S3 dash components appear to be "unobtainium". Sigh. So now I needed a "Plan C".
So I have collected a collage of parts from several years of series vehicles - '62 S2 109 tub, '68 S2 88 parts vehicle, a bunch of '73 S3 88 body bits and the 1996 Disco that forms the basis of this build - to choose my parts from. The only ownerships I have are for the '62 S2 and the disco, so I will be registering the final build as a '62 S2 88. Hopefully the idiots (sorry, I meant helpful staff) at ICBC (the local government insurance we are forced to use) will not notice the 109 box... :oops:
After my last post I tried to decide whether to use the S3 bulkhead and dash or the bulkhead from the '68 S2. Personally I like the S2 style of interior, although there has to be a way to tidy up the demister hoses (more later). I had already mounted the S3 bulkhead before I got the S2 one, but I decided to see how difficult it would be to repair and use the S2 one. This is what it looked like before I started: However, after dismantling it and starting to cut out the rusty bits, it started to look like this: At which point I decided it was scrap and I would need to look for a "Plan B" solution and went back to the S3 bulkhead. At first it seemed like it would be a good solution. And it was not as rotted out as the S2 one, but still did have some rust issues... And after I pulled it apart, the console was completely rotted out. The only thing holding the paper thin or missing metal structure together was the foam insulation and imitation leather wrapping. Only the British would use plain painted sheet metal for a heating/cooling system.... And, S3 dash components appear to be "unobtainium". Sigh. So now I needed a "Plan C".
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bsa_m21
- Spanner Man
- Posts: 811
- Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:30 pm
- Location: Surrey, BC
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
So onto Plan C - What I decided to do, was to convert my S3 bulkhead with a custom S2 style metal console. The old rotted S2 bulkhead was still good enough to take measurements from and my MIG welder needed some exercise anyhow, so how hard could it be to fab one up. So off to Princess Auto and got myself a cheap sheet metal bender, which of course I then had to reinforce for strength. Oh well. (Apparently my wife thinks I am a glutton for punishment. But what else am I to do In my spare time? :mi5: )
After many trials and tribulations, beer and wasted metal, I ended up with this: Not too bad after all.
I had already fabbed up a transmission tunnel cover to mount the gear and Hi-Lo shifters, and modified the bulkhead for it. So next was more cutting and welding (and more beer and wasted metal) to add replacement footwells and the custom dash to the S3 bulkhead. The footwells were fairly straight forward, although I encountered a lot more rusted out, thin metal needing replacing. The final product was this: And mounting it back onto the Disco frame it looks like this: The red strap was just to ensure it was vertical while I checked door and fender fittings and to figure out where to mount the footwell to frame braces.
Seems to be OK so far. At least I know no one else's conversion out there will look the same as my conversion.... :bounce:
More updates later.
After many trials and tribulations, beer and wasted metal, I ended up with this: Not too bad after all.
I had already fabbed up a transmission tunnel cover to mount the gear and Hi-Lo shifters, and modified the bulkhead for it. So next was more cutting and welding (and more beer and wasted metal) to add replacement footwells and the custom dash to the S3 bulkhead. The footwells were fairly straight forward, although I encountered a lot more rusted out, thin metal needing replacing. The final product was this: And mounting it back onto the Disco frame it looks like this: The red strap was just to ensure it was vertical while I checked door and fender fittings and to figure out where to mount the footwell to frame braces.
Seems to be OK so far. At least I know no one else's conversion out there will look the same as my conversion.... :bounce:
More updates later.
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franko
- Out of Africa
- Posts: 421
- Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:15 am
- Location: Victoria BC
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
Nice work 👍🏼 That dash turned out amazing!
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oldgravy
- Captain Crunch
- Posts: 268
- Joined: Tue Aug 20, 2013 9:37 am
- Location: Surrey / Langley
- Contact:
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
Just a reminder, I still need those cab fixing brackets back! ;)
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bsa_m21
- Spanner Man
- Posts: 811
- Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:30 pm
- Location: Surrey, BC
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
They’re waiting for you to come by for a libation like you said you would do. :)oldgravy wrote: Tue Jan 07, 2020 3:31 pm Just a reminder, I still need those cab fixing brackets back! ;)
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ANDYD
- Defender of the World
- Posts: 3075
- Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2004 10:45 pm
- Location: Sunny Steveston BC
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
Looking really good Martin, its must be great when you can just make it up as you go along 8)
Does she / he / it have a name yet?
Does she / he / it have a name yet?
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bsa_m21
- Spanner Man
- Posts: 811
- Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:30 pm
- Location: Surrey, BC
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
Lets see.... so next I adapter the Disco steering to the S3 Steering column and mounted brake Master Cylinder and booster to the stock brake pedal assembly.
then I started work on mounting the Breakfast and radiator. Turns out the Disco frame where these need to mount is about 2-1/2" lower than the Series frames so you can't mount the breakfast directly to the cross member. I mocked it up with some box section steel I had:
Looking pretty good, except for mismatched running light holes from the old fender headlight side to the new one. Guess I'll have to do some fancy bodywork to make them match. Unfortunately, aluminum welding is not my forte....
Anyhow, it was pretty level, so I welded up some brackets and tried a test mount with the rad I got by horse trading some Series 1 parts with Don at Rovalution. I was hoping to mount the transmission oil cooler under the rad. You can see it sitting there in the pic. However after remounting the breakfast and fenders, I found I they were too high and the fenders were not square with the bulkhead. I had to cut off the brackets (no I hadn't just tacked them), cut them down and re-weld. (The old adage is not: Measure twice, cut, weld on, mock up bits, swear a lot, cut off, cut down to size and re-weld brackets.) Unfortunately there isn't enough space now for the oil cooler, under the rad, so I will have to figure out something else.
Then I thought I'd try a rusted out Series 2 breakfast I had, to see how much space I had between it and the rad. Actually, there is almost 3 inches at the headlight openings, so off I went to Amazon and eBay looking for LED lights and found these that fit and leave me with almost an inch of clearance.: Now I had to refurbish the S2 breakfast. After much grinding, welding, more grinding, I ended up with: Woo hoo! Guess she's going to be a 4 headlighted beast. :bounce:
Anyhow, it was pretty level, so I welded up some brackets and tried a test mount with the rad I got by horse trading some Series 1 parts with Don at Rovalution. I was hoping to mount the transmission oil cooler under the rad. You can see it sitting there in the pic. However after remounting the breakfast and fenders, I found I they were too high and the fenders were not square with the bulkhead. I had to cut off the brackets (no I hadn't just tacked them), cut them down and re-weld. (The old adage is not: Measure twice, cut, weld on, mock up bits, swear a lot, cut off, cut down to size and re-weld brackets.) Unfortunately there isn't enough space now for the oil cooler, under the rad, so I will have to figure out something else.
Then I thought I'd try a rusted out Series 2 breakfast I had, to see how much space I had between it and the rad. Actually, there is almost 3 inches at the headlight openings, so off I went to Amazon and eBay looking for LED lights and found these that fit and leave me with almost an inch of clearance.: Now I had to refurbish the S2 breakfast. After much grinding, welding, more grinding, I ended up with: Woo hoo! Guess she's going to be a 4 headlighted beast. :bounce:
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bsa_m21
- Spanner Man
- Posts: 811
- Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:30 pm
- Location: Surrey, BC
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
Next I decided to see what I could do to fix up the Kodiak Mk 2 heater that was in somewhat sad shape and VERY rusted out.
FIrst I had to cut out the rusted mount section. Sorry, forgot to take a pick before I cut. Then I started forming replacement parts and fitting them: The holes drilled in the mounting plate are for plug welds, to ensure I had a solid connection.
The old motor and and squirrel cage were toast. I found replacement motor and squirrel cage online. The motor is more powerful than the original, sealed, brushless (ie: won't wear out) and variable speed.
One of the complaints I always hear is how useless Land rover Series heaters are. I was quite surprised that the heater didn't have a recirculating mode. It's fresh air or off. As well, heating air below freezing requires a lot more energy that taking warm air and heating it further. So I decided to see if I could figure out a way to create a recirculating air circuit. There is lots of space in the footwell between the hot air opening and the door, so maybe I could ad an air intake there and figure out how to route the air there or to the fresh air intake.
My solution was to cut off the rusted out 4-1/2" air intake tube and create a 5" square box with 2, 4-1/2" holes. One on the end and the other on side facing the footwell. Here are the 3 main heater body parts after sandblasting and a coat of galvanizing primer, but before I sorted out the flap and hose connections. Next I needed to figure out how to make a damper flap. I took a stainless rod and cut a slot and drilled a few holes in it. Then I made a rectangular flap and mounted it on the rod. I'll weld on the bell crank arm once I figure out where the control cable will mount, so I get the angles right.
In the box section of the air intake it looks like: I'll glue 1/8" rubber on both sides of the flap to make a tight seal, in the final product.
So then I formed and welded 4-1/2" tube sections to the two openings in the intake box. I apologize for the shitty looking welds as it turned out I was running out of mig mix gas, so the gas flow was almost nil causing what you see. I should have stopped, but didn't. I have a refilled gas cylinder now but the damage is done. I'll have to grind it down and clean it up before the unit is finished.
The bulkhead currently looks like: and mounting the heater on it: That's as far as I've gotten with the heater. Still need to finish cutting the cabin air intake hole in the footwell. I plan to use a cover grill from a cheap 5" or 6" speaker as the cabin air intake grill and will put some kind of filter material behind the grill as well.
M.
FIrst I had to cut out the rusted mount section. Sorry, forgot to take a pick before I cut. Then I started forming replacement parts and fitting them: The holes drilled in the mounting plate are for plug welds, to ensure I had a solid connection.
The old motor and and squirrel cage were toast. I found replacement motor and squirrel cage online. The motor is more powerful than the original, sealed, brushless (ie: won't wear out) and variable speed.
One of the complaints I always hear is how useless Land rover Series heaters are. I was quite surprised that the heater didn't have a recirculating mode. It's fresh air or off. As well, heating air below freezing requires a lot more energy that taking warm air and heating it further. So I decided to see if I could figure out a way to create a recirculating air circuit. There is lots of space in the footwell between the hot air opening and the door, so maybe I could ad an air intake there and figure out how to route the air there or to the fresh air intake.
My solution was to cut off the rusted out 4-1/2" air intake tube and create a 5" square box with 2, 4-1/2" holes. One on the end and the other on side facing the footwell. Here are the 3 main heater body parts after sandblasting and a coat of galvanizing primer, but before I sorted out the flap and hose connections. Next I needed to figure out how to make a damper flap. I took a stainless rod and cut a slot and drilled a few holes in it. Then I made a rectangular flap and mounted it on the rod. I'll weld on the bell crank arm once I figure out where the control cable will mount, so I get the angles right.
In the box section of the air intake it looks like: I'll glue 1/8" rubber on both sides of the flap to make a tight seal, in the final product.
So then I formed and welded 4-1/2" tube sections to the two openings in the intake box. I apologize for the shitty looking welds as it turned out I was running out of mig mix gas, so the gas flow was almost nil causing what you see. I should have stopped, but didn't. I have a refilled gas cylinder now but the damage is done. I'll have to grind it down and clean it up before the unit is finished.
The bulkhead currently looks like: and mounting the heater on it: That's as far as I've gotten with the heater. Still need to finish cutting the cabin air intake hole in the footwell. I plan to use a cover grill from a cheap 5" or 6" speaker as the cabin air intake grill and will put some kind of filter material behind the grill as well.
M.
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franko
- Out of Africa
- Posts: 421
- Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:15 am
- Location: Victoria BC
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
Wow love the heater idea, hate the 4 head light look pick one or the other lol
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oldgravy
- Captain Crunch
- Posts: 268
- Joined: Tue Aug 20, 2013 9:37 am
- Location: Surrey / Langley
- Contact:
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
That's cool. Nice work!
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swamijake
- Out of Africa
- Posts: 417
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:31 pm
- Location: Lower Mainland
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
Wait, you're going to have functioning heat and defrost?!!!!
That's sacrilege! Next thing you are going to want functioning wipers that don't fall off. This is a slippery slope you're on Martin.
That's sacrilege! Next thing you are going to want functioning wipers that don't fall off. This is a slippery slope you're on Martin.
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bsa_m21
- Spanner Man
- Posts: 811
- Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:30 pm
- Location: Surrey, BC
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
Who needs wipers when you can lower the windscreen?? :bounce:swamijake wrote: Thu Jan 16, 2020 3:43 pm Wait, you're going to have functioning heat and defrost?!!!!
That's sacrilege! Next thing you are going to want functioning wipers that don't fall off. This is a slippery slope you're on Martin.
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bsa_m21
- Spanner Man
- Posts: 811
- Joined: Mon Mar 02, 2015 1:30 pm
- Location: Surrey, BC
Re: Series/Disco Hybrid Build
I got a bit of time to work in the garage on Sunday.
I finished the heater box, now modified to both recirculate and supply fresh air.
Welds are cleaned up, I reattached the cable bracket to be in line with the flap actuation lever and tacked on the lever.
Recirculate mode (flap up) Fresh air mode (flap down) It will have to sit in a box on the shelf for now and wait till I have lots more bits to send off to the powder coater for a nice black coating.
Next? Finish right side mud shield, straighten front fender outer panels and re-attach the headlight panels. Then onto finishing the dash (electrical & heating cutouts, and surface finishing. Long ways to go yet!
I finished the heater box, now modified to both recirculate and supply fresh air.
Welds are cleaned up, I reattached the cable bracket to be in line with the flap actuation lever and tacked on the lever.
Recirculate mode (flap up) Fresh air mode (flap down) It will have to sit in a box on the shelf for now and wait till I have lots more bits to send off to the powder coater for a nice black coating.
Next? Finish right side mud shield, straighten front fender outer panels and re-attach the headlight panels. Then onto finishing the dash (electrical & heating cutouts, and surface finishing. Long ways to go yet!