1970 2a Upgrades

[deanc5]

Normally people keep the disco frame and modify it to fit the series body. It is a lot less work and you can buy the body mounts cheap.

Yes, I had no other frame. Besides, then I wouldn't be having all this fun.

[deanc5]

Have you got a plan for a fuel tank? It looks as though the original Series tank won't fit due to the arms getting in the way.

My plan is to modify 1 or 2 series tanks. I found these tanks at http://www.allisport.com but they are a bit $$$.

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[bsa_m21]

Well one thing is for sure ..... that frame isn't going to flex!! :bounce:

M.

[Bill E.]

Thanks for sharing all the photos. You are doing some very nice fabrication work there!

[deanc5]

Thanks, I hope this can help others. As I said, I'm just making this up as I go along. There isn't much online regarding a coil/power steering conversion. The steering box wants to foul the coil spring bracket, and then there is the panhard rod mount to consider. Spacing in this area is critical. I spent some time today planning the power steering box/panhard rod mount bracket. I'm using a standard ANR5321 steering box (range rover/p38). These pics show what I have so far. The design is not finished yet but it should look something pretty close to this. I'll get the drawings done and off the laser cutters tomorrow.

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[deanc5]

I had a back problem and couldn't work on the project for a while. But I have made some progress recently that I can share.

Here is how the final power steering mount turned out. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I could not find much info online regarding a coil spring conversion combined with a power steering conversion. I had seen a pic or two of finished vehicles with these mods done so I knew it was possible, but I could not find any technical information on how it was done. So I was in uncharted waters, and there was quite a bit of design work and test fitting of the steering box to get it right. The box had to clear the front spring seat, but not be so far forward that it fouled the grill. Then there was the issue of adding a panhard mount as well. It turns out that in this application, the front springs had to be moved back about 3/4 inch. Not just the top spring seats, but the spring plates on the axle were also moved back and their angle shifted slightly. In the end, it turned out great.

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The panhard bar bracket was then added. Attention was paid to be sure that the panhard bar angle matched the drag link angle.

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[deanc5]

After the steering parts were finished, I moved on to the rear A-arm crossmember. A defender crossmember was modified and installed. Then it was time for paint. The frame was sandblasted and got 2 coats of por15.

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[deanc5]

Here is the finished power steering /panhard bar mount. It is made of 3/8" plate and is plenty strong. Clearances were integrated for both the pitman arm, and the pto winch driveshaft.

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[deanc5]

With all the mods complete it was time to mount the axles.

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[deanc5]

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[deanc5]

Thought I would catch up on the progress of the upgrades. The bulkhead and rad support epoxy primered and painted.

[deanc5]

I originally planned on re-building a 2.5 na diesel for this project but plans changed when I came across this brand new 2.0L VM Motori turbodiesel crate motor in Kelowna. Originally rated at 90hp, I figured I would tweak it up a bit and add an intercooler to get a bit more out of it. I heard good things about the fuel economy of these motors. They were used in the '80s in British cabs, Alpha Romeos, and a 2.4l version was used in the '86-'89 Range Rover.

[deanc5]

Here is the transmission adapter blank drilled for the VM diesel. I am marking the locations for the Series hole pattern.

[deanc5]

With the holes drilled and countersunk, it was time to machine the VM starter motor mount opening and stud holes.

[deanc5]

Placing the inserts for the starter motor in the correct positions.

[deanc5]

Here is the cover I made for the starter opening. I also added a delete plate where the original series starter would have been.

[deanc5]

Lastly in the adapter build was a pilot bearing spacer and clutch installation. Because the VM diesels were used in so many applications from marine engines to industrial and automotive, the flywheels came pre-drilled with several hole patterns. Luckily the land rover pressure plate was a direct bolt-on.

[deanc5]

Positioning the VM diesel for motor mount design.

[deanc5]

VM diesel installation complete.

[deanc5]

By this point, I had installed new brake lines and was installing a bracket for the Wilwood brake balance valve.

[deanc5]

Finished brake booster.

[deanc5]

Nice new springs on the pedals.

[deanc5]

Castor Correction -

When I designed the suspension installation, I made sure that I would have about 4" of lift over the stock series suspension. This meant that I would have some serious castor correction to do. I had seen the castor corrected radius arms online but after looking at the price, I decided to look at other alternatives. Eventually, I thought I would try to correct the stock radius arms myself. The process of adding 6 degrees of castor wasn't that difficult and they actually turned out great. The hole spacing was appropriately adjusted, and the frame attachment stud was also cut and rewelded at an angle to better align with the frame brackets.

[deanc5]

Picked up a couple of Volvo electric vacuum pumps at the wreckers since the VM diesel didn't have the pump option installed. I actually got the mechanical pump along with the motor but it requires a drive gear that I don't have.

[deanc5]

While in Kelowna I also had hoses made for the ex-mod 2.5l oil cooler.