109" Body questions (removal, weight and how to strip paint)

[pleask]

I'm may be helping a buddy in a couple of months restore his '61 109" four door Safari wagon, and I have a few questions to start us off if I may. I am very experienced on the restoring other old classic English cars I have/had, and I have a little experience with Land Rovers but not a lot, so sorry for any silly questions ;)

- Is the skin of the body aluminum or steel? (I've not seen the Landi yet)

- If aluminum, due to it's thickness and that it has a lot of support around the panels, can it take being glass beaded to strip the paint? If not, how do you all do it?

- Does the roof come off?

- Now the big question, how difficult is it to remove the body from the chassis once the doors are removed? As in, how many guys does it take and how awkward is it? (does the roof come off?)

- If the chassis is toast (he said it is sad) what options do I have?
Thanks, Pat
Victoria BC

[terayon]

Hi Pat,
Welcome to the mad house! Here is some info to your questions.

Is the skin of the body aluminum or steel? (I've not seen the Landi yet)

+the skin is aluminum

- If aluminum, due to it's thickness and that it has a lot of support around the panels, can it take being glass beaded to strip the paint? If not, how do you all do it?

- Does the roof come off?

+roof comes off, and so do the side panels (ie sides that house the rear ride windows in.

- Now the big question, how difficult is it to remove the body from the chassis once the doors are removed? As in, how many guys does it take and how awkward is it? (does the roof come off?)

+removing the body isn't too bad. You'll want do this if the chassis is bad. I've heard/seen people do it in a weekend with a couple of friends.


- If the chassis is toast (he said it is sad) what options do I have?

+you can get a galvanized chassis from your local rover parts dealer. They make a world of difference at resale.



Enjoy the fun!

Sent from my STV100-3 using Tapatalk

[TimberPig]

To add to the previous reply:

Media blasting has been used in the past on body panels, but many have found it to be extremely touchy between the point of not removing the paint, to rippling the panels. Due to the risk of damage, many prefer chemical strippers if they feel the need to remove paint for refinishing. Another very popular school says to leave it alone and enjoy the patina that has developed through the years.

Regarding the frame, if you find it is not salvageable, in addition to new galvy frames, there have been a few repairable original frames on here recently, free for the taking by whomever is willing to haul them away. They needed some repairs, requiring the ability to weld them up, but it is another, lower cost option compared to a new galvy frame.

[harv]

To add, from the perspective of an aircraft mechanic, we would never bead blast an aluminum skin panel. If you need to remove the paint, you can carefully sand it, or use stripper. But I agree with Timberpig, if the body is in decent condition, leave it patina. My 1963 2A hasn't been painted since new and I like to think it enhances the beauty of the old beast. Good luck. Sounds like a fun project. I think the end product will be worth the work.

[pleask]

Thank you all, I much appreciate your input.
Pat

[red90]

Soda blasting is the easiest method for paint removal. It is safe and you simply wash the soda off with water.

[Rambler]

Here’s a photo of my bonnet that was soda blasted by the previous owner. I understand it makes a hell of a mess, so be considerate of your neighbours ;-)

[The_Anachronist]

#SaveThe109Wagons
I am doing up a ‘63 myself. As Terayon has said, it’s mostly easy. Two guys, the correct tools, a couple of incorrect tools, and some forewarning is all it takes.

- Roof and side panels are easy. A zillion little bolts and nuts with lock washers along the roofline, then gentle persuasion to pop the seal. It’s lighter than it looks. but much easier with 2. You may or may not want to leave the roof attached to the sides for removal. I took them off separately because I will be stripping and repainting everything.

Tub is where 109SW become a hassle. First, most of not all mounting bolts will be rusted solid. Get a decent, preferable small grinder and a generous supply of cutoff wheels. (Protect your eyes). The biggest hassle is the little triangular body panel at the front of the wheel arch. You will need to drill out rivets (be careful!), including the part where the body panel is held on by the weatherstripping (yay for British design!). Again, it is much lighter than it looks but 2 guys just makes it easy.

Take a million pictures from many angles. Write notes on stickies and put them in the picture as you take it. Point out things you notice as you disassemble so three years from now you will wonder what you are pointing out.

As for stripping: chemical works, is probably the least messy but is slow and unpleasant (protect your everything.) I would not glass bead the body panels. I will most likely take the whole pile to a pro and have them soda blasted. (If my paint wasn’t a colour I hated, I would leave it with the patina.)

Honestly, taking it apart is very easy, one big day or a weekend at a normal pace with 2 people. Putting it back together can be a bigger hassle, but that’s where this and other groups can help.

Keep us updated. Maybe see you at Founders Day?