1956 Series One Rebuild Project

[ANDYD]

Once all the parts were disassembled from the front axle I began inspecting & cleaning up everything to see what could be reused and what is scrap! The Swivel ball casings, brake drums, brake backing plates all are good, so just a good cleaning, then de-rust treatment and repainting. The multiple seals, bearings, bushes, chromed swivel balls are all showing some wear so will be renewed.

Photo #1 - New seals installed in the Front axle
Photo #2 - Cleaned up and repainted Swivel Ball housings
Photo #3 - Cleaned up and repainted Brake drums

[rayhyland]

What are you using to get rid of all the rust? Vinegar bath? Or just elbow grease and wire brush?


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[ANDYD]

Today I have all the front axle parts laid out on boards on top of the chassis (no room anywhere else!!)
There are a lot of parts and I split them in groups and start the rebuilding process. The brakes are straight forward enough, I have a lot of new parts ready for assembly so I focus on that for a while.
I bagged the old swivel balls up (just stinky!) while I wait to pick new ones.
The half shafts look good, I will likely replace the U joints just because its easy at this point.
There are "Warn" wheel/Hub lockers to inspect, I don't know much about these (never had hub lockers before) so will have to do some internet searching / reading on these. There is also a spare set of "Cutlass" Hub lockers, not sure about these either!
I replaced the Distance Pieces on the Stub axles that the seals ride on like on the rear, again this was a challenge to remove them and I needed a shop press to reinstall the new ones.
I decided that all the seals, bearings and most of the nuts/bolts/ locking tabs should all be replaced.

Photo #1 - All Front Axle parts laid out and the reassemble begins..
Photo #2 - Warn Hub Lockers

[ANDYD]

Hi Ray,

The process I am using for rust is yes. lots of elbow grease, wire brush, wire brush wheel (on hand drill) then I good bath of the POR de-greaser while scrubbing with a stiff brush, good rinse then the POR metal treatment, another good rinse then when totally dry apply the POR paint (typically 2 or 3 coats)... The POR (Paint Over Rust) application can be applied over a rusty metal as long as its not loose rust or greasy.
Then I hope it will last for ever! (well, at least another 60 years)

Cheers,
Andy

[Doc Tari]

Hey there Andy! Just discovered your project thread, the build looks great. Is the Series I going to replace Jill's Disco?

It seems that being a retired president has left you with time to spare... Nice work, heck of a job in such a tight space.

[ANDYD]

Hey Pete,
Good to hear from you and nice to see that you are still visiting us here on the forum.
I don't think the Series 1 will replace Jill's Disco (she likes the Automatic's...), but she may soon get mad that she wont be fitting the Disco in the garage when the winter snow arrives! I told her I would "have it fixed up and running around in no time" .... ha, good that I didn't put a date on it ..........
Andy

[Bill E.]

Always give the month...but never the year. :wink:

[ANDYD]

Ok, managed to get a few hours on the SI today, focussing on the front axle. There is a lot of confusing information out there on the installation of the Railko Bush kit that is typically used on later Series Land Rovers and also recommended for a Series 1 upgrade (I'm sure there will be some die hard Series One guys out there that prefer to stay totally original, and that's ok too).
The new Railko bush gets installed on the top position of the swivel ball and the roller bearing goes in the bottom where the steering arm connects. This is great for all Series Land Rovers except the Series 1 because the steering arm connects to the top position where the new Railko bush is getting installed. I have read that its just a case of moving the steering arm on the Series 1 to the lower position. This is not the best, plus you then need an extra swivel pin that doesn't come in the Railko kit. Also moving the arm to the bottom puts the steering arm upside down (has a taper) and the ball joints connections upside down, So not ideal.
Anyhow, to save a looooong story and after lots of research I opted for leaving the steering arm on top (with the Railko bush attached to the arm and the bearing at the bottom, This still involved drilling out the little securing pin and a heavy press to remove the old splined pin and the press again to install the Railko pin. Not really the simple DIY job that I had been expecting....

Photo #1 - Swivel Balls, old vs new
Photo #2 - Close-up of years of old scars (hard for the oil seal to work with these)
Photo #3 - New parts including the Railko bush, ready to install

[ANDYD]

Swivel arms being retro fitted with the Railko bushes. Splined pin needs to first have the securing pin drilled out and then a press popped it out at around 20 tons of "push"!
Once installed (pressed into place the new Railko bush then needs to be drilled so the new securing pins can be installed.

[ANDYD]

The new Swivel Ball bearings and Railko bushes were gently tapped into the new swivel balls. This part went smoothly so I was very Thankful on Thanksgiving Day!

Photo #1 - Old Splined bush compared to the new Railko bush (and pin)
Photo #2 - New bearing race's being installed
Photo #3 - New lower bearing compared to the old bearing

[cbalme]

My Axle from an early Series 2 had the style of swivel pin like yours. I didn't have to go through all of that since I acquired a newer axle but I suppose I would've had to do the same thing. I don't think it matters too much where the steering arms are as long as the bearing is on the bottom.

Do you know the advantage of upgrading to the Railko Bushings or is just for the availability of parts?

[ANDYD]

Do you know the advantage of upgrading to the Railko Bushings or is just for the availability of parts?

From what I have learnt, the Railko Bush helps dampen the steering, less vibration and more responsive feel.
Also the old splined pin and cone parts wear faster, are getting harder to find and are more expensive to buy these days.

[ANDYD]

The Swivel Ball assembly was straight forward. On initial testing I could tell I needed more spacing shims so will have to leave these until the new shims arrive.

[ANDYD]

While I wait for parts to complete the Swivel Balls I spend some time on the front half shafts. Changing the U-joints and inspecting the splines and bushings. The U-joints require the rubber dust guard to be removed as these u-joints are running inside the axle and in a bath of gear oil.

[ANDYD]

New shims arrived quickly thanks to Jeremy at Rocky Mountain, so spent some time getting the correct "drag". Lots of confusion on web about what is the right amount of resistance. Its doesn't help that its a mix of Series 1 and Series 3 parts with the Railko bush. I settled for between 6-7 kg of "drag" which feels right. I can always add / remove a shim later on if required. Then fitted the swivel ball seal and retainer. The swivel balls are ready for refitting now.

Photo #1 - adding / removing shims
Photo #2 - New seal and retainer ready to go on
Photo #3 - Seal & retainer installed.

[ANDYD]

Good progress today with getting the swivel ball housings reinstalled, then the brake back plates followed by the slave cylinders and brake shoes. Then slid the two half shafts into place.

[DrRangelove]

Looking good Andy!

[ANDYD]

Thanks Dave, its a labour of love as you know with yours! Good days and bad days.....

Completed putting together the front brakes and hubs. All I need now is a steering bar and the wheels on and this chassis will be rolling again :bounce: First time for 7 years (previous owner dismantled this Land Rover in 2010)

After looking into the steering parts more I confirmed that there are two types of tie-rod ends (early type & the later type), the early ones need to go into the early steering bars and the later ones should go with later steering bars and they shouldn't be mixed.
The early tie rod ends have a shank on them that is designed to have the clamp tightened on the unthreaded section where as the later one is threaded all the way along and the clamp is designed to be tightened on the threaded section.
The early ones have a castle nut and split pin where as the later type have a ny-lock nut. The tapers and threads are the same.
I found that you can use the later (series 3) steering bars on a series 1 but you should then use the later tie rod ends.

Photo #1 - Front axle almost fully assembled and completed
Photo #2 - Early type of steering tie-rod end (left) compared with the later type of tie-rod end (right)

[bsa_m21]

Andy,

You are quite correct re the tie road ends. There are a number of reports in the UK, of owners who mixed them up and ended up with failures causing crashes, and even death. :|

M.

[Dave_F]

Damn Andy...you are just ripping along with this project. Gonna give those Land Rover restoration guys in Solihull a run for their money.

[ANDYD]

Yes .... :happy7:

She rolled out of the garage on the weekend for a 3m "leg" stretch, felt how cold it was and rolled right back in again..

Now to dig out the next box of parts.

[cbalme]

I guess it is my turn to get a move on.

[rayhyland]

Yeah, I need to empty my garage now so I can get to work on my trucks too.


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[mepham55]

Coming along nicely Andy. What are you using for hosting/posting your pictures on the forum? I can never get any small enough for the forum to load them?

Matt

[bsa_m21]

Here is a simple free tool to resize and save a copy of your photo's so you can upload them from your desktop to this forum.

http://www.rw-designer.com/picture-resize

M.