1963 IIa V8 Race Rover

[John Boy]

Well, Christmas is near and I have been a busy little Rover elf. My project was on hold for a bit, I went racing in the Targa Baja, and upon my return, had to spend a bit of time repairing the race damage I generated. My Bitter SC shines now as it did before I left on this adventure race. I can say with some satisfaction that my race mates will never tangle their Porsche's with my Bitter on a dirt road ever again. So... Where did I leave off? Ah yes, the power steering and the drive shafts. I have both the shafts finished, have installed and tested the fit. I have also figured out how and where the power steering P38 pump with finally be located. I have taken pictures, but sadly, my new phone only likes to take extreme hi rez photos. So... I will have to grab my old phone and retake all the images I now can't upload. In the mean time, just imagine my rover is yet again disassembled and I have once again committed to putting on the final coats of paint on the frame and will soon be building the bottom of the Rover again for the last time. Photos will arrive soon.

Cheers

[John Boy]

So, I found a camera with a low enough resolution to take photos with, here are the two drive shafts.

[John Boy]

The frame under final coat of black paint, notice the steering cassette is missing.The shinny black area is where the P38 steering box will be located.

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More painted bits.

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Yet more painted bits and the D2 dif ready for paint.

[John Boy]

It is necessary to remove all the metal bits on the inner part of the frame for the P38 power steering pump, I will need to weld a bracket on the top of the frame eventually, this will raise the pump up enough to prevent it from hitting the differential under compression. The bump stop will have to be screwed to the frame as well, only on the inner side.

[John Boy]

Yes, that is the bulk head and drive train in the back ground, the bulk head is under primer and is fully repaired, the drive train will just need a cleaning, as I refuse to paint the block.

[John Boy]

paint on the front differential, and its return to the frame.

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with the old rover steel rims on, the front is starting to look more traditional.

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I will soon have to address the steering and its linkages and how they work with the leaf springs.

[rayhyland]

I've been enjoying following this. It has inspired many mad ideas.

When is the race?

Ray

[John Boy]

My navigator and I might not be able to run the Road to Mandalay race, we think it might have been cancelled altogether. So the plan now might be to run the Pan America race instead, that will be in 2018 if things don't change.

[John Boy]

A quick update, the rear end is being finished and painted and is ready for assembly.

[John Boy]

Ah, Sunday... a good day to post. So... here are for your amusement, photos of where the build is to date. I have reinstalled the drive train for the one millionth time, or so it feels that way, and here is hoping that it is in to stay. I think it looks just as awesome with the steel rims on for daily travel, as it will with race rims and low profile tires. But... that is just my arrogance speaking :D Question.. anyone know where I could get stock lugs to fit the studs on my diffs? This is a Discover 1 Differential, and I don't want to use the shiny stock lugs.

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My small garage has two bays and the the right of this photo is my Porsche 924 turbo up on jack stands, But just focus on the size of that V8, I hope to chew up the back side of my Porsche when this thing is running. :mrgreen:

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Going to pick paint next week, start spraying the bulk head and rims... Thinking the Desert tan colour I see these things in would look cool.

[rayhyland]

Defender/series lug nuts should fit Disco 1 wheel studs.


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[red90]

Stock steel wheel nuts are black painted. The one you have there are for alloys and should not be used on the steel wheels as they are the wrong shape.

The part number is RRD500010. They are quite cheap.

[John Boy]

Thanks for the part number and yes, I have no plans to use the aluminium lugs on the steel rims, that's why I asked... Where can I buy the steel rim lugs? I have checked, princess auto, lordco, Canadian tire, JB Precision. Is my only choice Rover?

[punkinracer]

Got mine from ebay really cheap. Kabota tractors use the same size and angle as our steel wheels use, so you could check your local dealer. I remember that not being a very cheap way to go but I only need a couple to how the spare on the rack.

Pat

[red90]

Thanks for the part number and yes, I have no plans to use the aluminium lugs on the steel rims, that's why I asked... Where can I buy the steel rim lugs? I have checked, princess auto, lordco, Canadian tire, JB Precision. Is my only choice Rover?

Yes, any Rover parts supplier of your choice. They are maybe $10 for a set. You won't find any locally as classic Land Rovers are the only vehicles that use a 16 mm lug nut.

https://www.lrdirect.com/RRD500010-Whee ... teel-Whee/

I'll add this link for anyone that want nicer options to stock.
http://www.wrington.co.uk/land%20rover% ... 0nuts.html

[bsa_m21]

Closer to home are:

http://www.billet4x4.com/pro-lugnuts.htm

http://www.okoffroad.com/stuff-lugnuts.htm

M.

[rayhyland]

I know Don at Rovalution has them usually in stock. Give him a call, he may be able to send them to you in Victoria on the Greyhound which is fast and cheap.


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[John Boy]

Thanks for all the leads, I will be doing some checking. But.... On to my first glitch :| So.. I bolted the two drive shafts in today, the rear went in without a hitch. But... I will have to load the rear end to be sure the shaft can travel in and out well with out falling apart or binding with a smash. At present it looks like the rear shaft will need to be shorted a touch, but the load test will decide. A photo for you all to see. I chose to delete the rubber spacer thing and direct bolt to the rear diff yoke, I will likely spot weld the two together when finished to be sure nothing slips. The shaft turns free and uses just the one U joint at the large brake drum, rotating the rear diff today aligned on the spring cradles then bolting things tight ensured this. When all the tests work, welding the cradles to the diff will stop rotation on the springs.

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So... now the glitch. I bolted the front shaft in and when moving the frame back and forth, I quickly realised the front shaft turned in the opposite direction to the front diffs rotation. So... the shaft turned clockwise and the yoke on the front diff turned counter clockwise. :? The next two photos show the front shaft, notice the small notch I made to the original cross member to ensure that when the load comes off the front diff, the driveshaft won't impact the cross member.

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[red90]

You need to have a u joint or the rotoflex at the rear. It can't just be a solid connection.

[John Boy]

Now... where is the problem??? The next two photos show my crescent wrench on the transfer box switchy thingy whatchama call it, and the transmission shifter doo dad thing... :wink: I can't move the transmission shifter leeaver with the wrench, but the transfer box switch moves freely and this gives the unit a neutral.

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So.. I can get neutral, but the shafts turn in opposite directions. What am I missing?

[red90]

You need to have a u joint or the rotoflex at the rear. It can't just be a solid connection.

[John Boy]

Also some photos with the bulk head in place showing off and how things fit so far.

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[Tony4921]

Hi John, the first picture of the T-box, with the crescent wrench on it is the Hi-Lo, but you will need to turn the input sheet to shift it. The second picture is the Centre Diff Lock.

[Tony4921]

When you push a D1 with the front drive shaft removed, if the CDL is out the forward output from the T-box will turn backwards. Its just a differential between front and rear outputs.

[John Boy]

Hi Tony, I understood what you described, I just like to use bogus words to sound stupid :bounce: Could you explain the glitch? The two shafts are turning in opposite directions making the rear diff drive forward and the front diff drive backwards. the T box is in neutral.