seats

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mgbgtn · #1 Post by **mgbgtn** » Sat Mar 21, 2015 8:06 pm

Has anyone changed their seat type in their series IIA or III? Looking for a seat that will give me a couple more inches of room to move back farther.

red90 · #2 Post by **red90** » Sat Mar 21, 2015 8:09 pm

Unless it is a 4 door the bulkhead prevents the seats going back.

Rambler · #3 Post by **Rambler** » Sun Mar 22, 2015 8:30 am

The series 2 I bought recently had no seats when it arrived. I'd read that those from a smart fortwo fitted near perfectly and so deciding I wanted a bit more comfort, went on the look out for some on kijiji. Found a great set of leather ones with heaters and am now in the process of adapting the seat brackets to fit. Both seats have a lot of forward back movement. But the drivers seat has longer runners. While the passenger runners fit the seat box no issues, the drivers side are about 2 inches to long. Not wanting to catch my legs on them each time I enter leave, I'm wondering whether the cut them short or cut a section out if the rear of the seat box (where it bolts to the rear tub) to allow the rails a bit more rear movement. I will post some photos as this progresses, but am hoping for a comfortable ride. And as I've hung onto the original seat brackets, can always convert back to the original set up as time / funds permit. (the smart fortwo seat were a steal price wise, and I like that they have head restraints and built in mounts for the over the shoulder seat belts, that are not provided with a canvas top series set up).

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03 ... 7baf14.jpg

Rambler · #4 Post by **Rambler** » Sun Mar 22, 2015 8:40 am

Forgot to say I have a SWB series 2 with the bulkhead that limits rearward movement. However, the PO cut part of this out to allow the drivers seat to recline further. I'm trying to restore that to how it should with new galvanised cappings (old ones were cut through, sigh) and a new panel to the front of the rear tub).

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03 ... a55c11.jpg

mgbgtn · #5 Post by **mgbgtn** » Sun Mar 22, 2015 10:38 am

Looks like I might have to cut some of the foam out of the seat back to let me sit farther back as mine is a 88.

Rambler · #6 Post by **Rambler** » Sun Mar 22, 2015 1:32 pm

mgbgtn wrote:Looks like I might have to cut some of the foam out of the seat back to let me sit farther back as mine is a 88.

I read on the series2 forum that someone made his own seat backs, a bit like those on the series 1's. He made a plywood back, mounted with thin foam and covered this with vinyl. Gave hime some extra inches rearward in the drivers seat.

Dave_F · #7 Post by **Dave_F** » Fri Mar 27, 2015 1:30 pm

I have two Series 1 seat backs that I am not using in my rebuild.

Would need to be recovered and re foamed but the guts and the brackets are all there.

Yours for free if you want them.

Dave_F · #8 Post by **Dave_F** » Fri Mar 27, 2015 1:37 pm

Your other alternative is to purchase a Bulkhead removal bar.

That would entail you cutting out the bulkhead and replacing it with the fitted bar for strength, and you would be able to move your seats farther back.

See link for details...

http://www.paddockspares.com/da2351-bul ... r-kit.html

Cheers

76RA24 · #9 Post by **76RA24** » Fri Mar 27, 2015 2:25 pm

Rambler wrote:The series 2 I bought recently had no seats when it arrived. I'd read that those from a smart fortwo fitted near perfectly and so deciding I wanted a bit more comfort, went on the look out for some on kijiji. Found a great set of leather ones with heaters and am now in the process of adapting the seat brackets to fit. Both seats have a lot of forward back movement. But the drivers seat has longer runners. While the passenger runners fit the seat box no issues, the drivers side are about 2 inches to long. Not wanting to catch my legs on them each time I enter leave, I'm wondering whether the cut them short or cut a section out if the rear of the seat box (where it bolts to the rear tub) to allow the rails a bit more rear movement. I will post some photos as this progresses, but am hoping for a comfortable ride. And as I've hung onto the original seat brackets, can always convert back to the original set up as time / funds permit. (the smart fortwo seat were a steal price wise, and I like that they have head restraints and built in mounts for the over the shoulder seat belts, that are not provided with a canvas top series set up).

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03 ... 7baf14.jpg

very interesting.

can you provide some seat measurements?

any pics installed?

Pete

Rambler · #10 Post by **Rambler** » Fri Mar 27, 2015 7:10 pm

Hi Pete,
It's on the long list of things to do in my project rebuild. I'm not even sure if the series 2 I bought runs, but with the weather warming up I'm hoping once the snow melts to make a start on her. Having said this I removed the seat box and currently stripping this down to see about how the brackets will work, I'll keep updating with the progress.
In terms of measurements, what are you looking for. The smart fortwo seats have nice thin backs and bases, so look a good fit. My only issue might be how upright are they going to be in terms of the back of the seat hitting the rear bulkhead. Only time will tell and I've realised I'll have to reinstall the seat box before I can work out exactly how far forward or back I can have the seat runners... Sorry, it will be a while before that is something I can provide photos of.
Ian

rayhyland · #11 Post by **rayhyland** » Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:29 pm

Dave I will buy the series 1 backs off you if you still have them

Ray

rezdiver · #12 Post by **rezdiver** » Wed Apr 08, 2015 9:05 pm

I think you can swap the seat base rails from a passenger side to a drivers side on the smart car seats, but this will entail a bit of dismantling and finding another passenger side seat to take parts from. have a look at how they are bolted on and see if this is doable. you may have to drill out the riveted stops and bend back some ears. you can usually pick up a seat that's been sitting in the rain from the wreckers for pretty cheap. The passenger side does not have an adjustable back you may have to shim up the base to get a bit of an angle for comfort. I put in the same heated smart seats in my Iltis and they are very comfortable.

Rambler · #13 Post by **Rambler** » Thu Apr 09, 2015 5:44 pm

Thanks very much rezdiver. I had been wondering about that route, though as you say the brackets will require a bit of persuasion to swap over. I will keep my eyes open and visit a few breakers yard to see what I can source. Glad to hear the seats are nice and comfy. Cheers.

steveep · #14 Post by **steveep** » Mon May 04, 2015 10:54 pm

Thanks for the thread and info guys, I think I'm going to go down this route as well. I was wondering what to do about the airbag in the seat though? Opinions? Just leave the wire unhooked and pretend it's not there?

Rambler · #15 Post by **Rambler** » Wed May 06, 2015 4:28 pm

I was a bit worried about the airbag in the seat at first, but after gingerly removing the wiring harness and control on the bottom of the seats I am happy they won't go bang in the night or when put back into the vehicle. It would be nice to have them deploy in an accident but the wiring and sensor stuff would be beyond me and with Lucas electrics in the old rover, who knows what might happen.

steveep · #16 Post by **steveep** » Wed May 13, 2015 9:37 am

Haha yeah, it was that "going bang in the night" that I was worried about Rambler...even unplugged there's something about having an improperly configured explosive device in the side of the seat that seemed a bit unsettling to me initially! BUT, really a spontaneously combusting air bag is probably the least of the safety concerns in my truck....easily balanced out by the fact that the seats are replacing some old half-backs that would probably put a permanent 90 degree angle into my spine if I was ever rear-ended:p

Rambler · #17 Post by **Rambler** » Thu May 14, 2015 9:11 pm

That's very true. I've recently be rewiring, as I think the old loom is well past sell by date, and I recently had some smoke and sparks on the alternator circuit. Hopefully, the new wire and components means one less thing to worry about.

steveep · #18 Post by **steveep** » Thu Dec 31, 2015 5:34 pm

Finally got mine in, so comfortable!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dB8dE ... 00-h945-no

More details of fitting on build thread:

http://roverlanders.bc.ca/roverforum/vi ... =15&t=4790

Originally had Micky and Mini stitched into the headrests (which allowed me to get them for a steal of a deal), so I removed the headrests, cut the images out, covered over with speaker cloth (as I discovered speakers in the headrests when I cut away the leather!) and attached land rover patches :)

Rambler · #19 Post by **Rambler** » Sat Jan 02, 2016 10:42 am

Hi Steveep,

Wow, smart looking upgrades to your Land Rover. I very much like the finishing touches with the smartfortwo seats you've installed (Land Rover badges!).

I've still to install the smart seats I got for my Series 2; being dogged down with mechanical, welding and painting and the cold Saskatchewan winters...

Can I ask about the seat installation. I noted you had reinforced the seat box with aluminium braces from the underside. Did you use square tubing or flat aluminium for the braces? I like that you have also covered the top of the seat box with al sheeting, looks great, especially with the custom trays and underseat storage.

A final question relates to mounting of the new seats. These look a little different to the smart fortwo seats I got. In term of the brackets, where there any modifications you needed to do. I had thought I would bolt them through from below (a bit like studs), with the nuts being on top for easier access. I'm not yet 100% sure about seat belts mounting points, but I like that you can use those built into the new seats.

Anyway, thanks for posting the updates - very helpful to the rest of us considering these seats as an upgrade!

Ian

steveep · #20 Post by **steveep** » Sun Jan 03, 2016 3:59 pm

Hey Ian,

I hear ya on the long project list!

I actually used some angle-aluminum (L-shaped cross section) for the supports, lining them up with where the seat rails would be. I then cut some aluminum cubes from a length of square aluminum bar, drilled & tapped them to accept some 8mm helicoils (figuring that that would be stronger than just tapping the aluminum directly for the seat retaining bolts), and then mounted the seats and welded the little blocks in place (to achieve makeshift aluminum captive nuts). The supports themselves I just riveted to the underside of the seatbox lip. I'm sure the whole things could just be done with steel if you wanted to dodge the aluminum sourcing/welding ...maybe just with a few precautions against galvanic corrosion?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xDaWP ... 99-h449-no

Regarding the rails, the passenger side rails were bent down at the front to attach through the front of whatever the previous mount was, but I just bent them flat to deal with that. It wasn't the most elegant solution, as the mounting tab is connected to the rail by some sort of fasteners that prevent the whole things from sitting completely flat, but it didn't bother me enough to deal with it at the time. Didn't have to adjust the length of the rails or modify the lip at the back of the box at all (you also wouldn't gain much more rearward adjustment by doing so without removing the bulkhead).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7upGh ... 78-h945-no

Regarding the pans, this is probably unnecessarily complicated and labor intensive unless you're fairly tall. The alternative being just mounting the rails on top of blocks or square tube to gain the roughly 1.5 inches of clearance that was needed under the rails (for mine at least). For reference, the way I have it now leaves about 5 inches of clearance above my head to the roof liner and I am 5´10. However, it does make seeing traffic lights out of the narrow series windscreen easier.

The seatbelt setup is a dream compared to some of the other makeshift 3 point options for a series. I used some aftermarket belts I had (because the Smart ones with their fancy little explosive devices didn't come with the seats and were expensive to acquire), and only had to make a mount for the reel, which I used that same angled aluminum for. In hindsight I should have tried to make them wider or something so that the through body bolts weren't under the reel (can't be seen in the shot)...but some careful "order of operations" assembly allowed me to get them installed nonetheless.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tUMRB ... 09-h946-no

Rambler · #21 Post by **Rambler** » Sun Jan 03, 2016 9:16 pm

Hi Steveep,

Thanks very much for the helpful info. and photos. All seems clearer now and good to hear about the various strengthening pieces incorporated into the seat box. Looking at my own Smart fortwo seats, the base runners are slightly different and I don't believe I will have a problem with height under each seat (I removed a lot of the components from the bottom of the seat, though perhaps foolishly I have not pulled the the things that might go bang in the night). :? I do like the idea of the under seat trays though. I was looking at catering suppliers the other day as perhaps ready made Al pans to slot in. I don't have an under seat tool box on the drivers side and the middle one was home made. I will be looking at some ideas for these areas. Great that you can access the tool box from the front, so it's not lost storage.

I also did not get the seat belts with my pair of front seats, but I have a set of the securon belts and am hoping to fit them in a similar way. It looks like the seat belt mechanism is now mounted close to each door behind the seat - is that correct? I have seen others who mount the seat belt (main part) to the upper capping at the back. I will have to investigate what works out best in terms of how the seat belt feeds out to go through the top of slot in the smart fortwo seats.

My drivers seat has longer runners/brackets than the passenger side, so it looks like I will have to chop about 2 inches off the mounting bracket to make the bolts fit inside the existing dimensions of the seat box. As you have said there is little point chopping the rear L shaped part of the seat box which gives it some strength, when there will be no moving the seat backwards thanks to the rear bulkhead.

Again I much appreciate the helpful advice given. Best wishes and happy Rovering!

Ian

steveep · #22 Post by **steveep** » Tue Jan 05, 2016 12:44 pm

Glad I could potentially be of some help Ian :)

You are correct about my seat belt reel placement. I was originally going to go with mounting on the capping (as you have seen), but this didn't allow my belts (also securon) to reel out enough that they would retract properly (it didn't wind up the spring in the reel enough)...hence mounting them further down.

Also, the mounting strap (rubber coated cable) on the buckle side of my securon belts was much too long for mounting directly to the seat ...but it wasn't terribly difficult to take the buckle apart, unbolt that strap and then just fashion a shorter one (the same width as the top tab on the original strap) out of steel flat bar. Securon buckles can be obtained with this shorter style of buckle mount. However, I wasn't able to find any convenient way to purchase just the buckle...and didn't want to purchase a whole new set just for that.

I guess it could also be that your Securon belt already has shorter webbing and/or a shorter mounting strap on the buckle...but I'm guessing we probably sourced them from the same supplier for the same application originally.

Best of luck! :)

Rambler · #23 Post by **Rambler** » Tue Jan 05, 2016 4:29 pm

Great, and thanks very much for the helpful advice re fitting the securon belts I have. Good to know the buckles can be modified easily too. Hoping now for a mild winter and early spring to help with the rebuild..

All the best,
Ian

Peleus21 · #24 Post by **Peleus21** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 8:51 pm

Hey guys. Where did you get your belts? I am planning on doing same mod to my 1959 s2 swb. It doesn't even have belts at all

steveep · #25 Post by **steveep** » Sat Feb 20, 2016 6:47 pm

If I had to hazard a guess, I would say that I got theme from Jeremy over at Rocky Mountain Products (http://www.parabolicsprings.com/), but I'm not sure. Could be worth giving him a call to see what he has to say about it anyways.

One thing to note about our Securon belts, as I might have previously mentioned, is that they're imported from Europe and, as far as I can tell, it's not possible to purchase individual components for them (i.e. just a reel, or just a buckle etc.). So that might actually be a reason to get a different brand.

Good luck,

Let us know how it goes :)

The Rover-Landers of BC

The Rover-Landers of BC

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