1959 Series 2 project

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goldhour · #1 Post by **goldhour** » Sat Jan 17, 2015 5:09 pm

Hello All,
I am hoping you can help me out with my new project. Its a 1959 Series 2. The vehicle was originally imported to Rover Company Ltd. Vancouver, BC. Its been in Alberta for about 25 years but not sure of its history prior to that.

The original build sheet says it should be highway yellow, someone painted the outside RAF blue and I plan to take it back to the original Yellow. Anyone happen to know where I can find the paint code for highway yellow?

I am pretty sure the steel push bars on the front and back are not original. I know it was on a ranch for a number of years and suspect it was some farming ingenuity that got them there.

Any and all advice, criticism or sympathies would be greatly appreciated!

Graham

withabix · #2 Post by **withabix** » Sat Jan 17, 2015 7:05 pm

If it was imported that colour, it was probably AA Yellow...

goldhour · #3 Post by **goldhour** » Thu Jan 29, 2015 12:53 pm

Found out some more information on this one. The LRC code for highway yellow is LRC561. A couple of pages on the net reference this as being a 1985 color, but found this page that describes this color was used for some vehicles imported to Canada and the US.

http://www.series123.com/USAhomepages/i ... index.html

ANDYD · #4 Post by **ANDYD** » Thu Jan 29, 2015 2:35 pm

Hi Graham, Welcome to the forum.

Looks like she has lots of potential. Looking forward to lots of updates and photos as the rebuild progresses. What is your wish for a rebuild timeline?
There are a few forum members out your way (Calgary?) to lean on and give advice (hopefully stop you from going too crazy!)
Cheers,
Andy

Rambler · #5 Post by **Rambler** » Thu Jan 29, 2015 9:10 pm

Hi and welcome. Not Calgary, but Saskatchewan is not far, so if I can help with any advice or suggestions I'd be happy to. I'm in the process of restoring a 61 Series 2 SWB. In answer to your question. No those bumpers/bars are not standard fitment.

Ian

red90 · #6 Post by **red90** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 7:25 am

There are a few member in Alberta. There is also a fairly active Alberta club. If you need any help finding new or used parts we have a lot of connection in the Alberta club.

goldhour · #7 Post by **goldhour** » Fri Feb 06, 2015 5:59 pm

Thanks everyone for the comments, I have managed to sand a few spots down on the Rover and it is definitely Yellow below that Air Force Blue. The rims are yellow as well, the hood appears to be white which will make for a nice combo.

I am hoping to be driving it this summer. Wont be the full rebuild but driving it a bit will help me to determine what is wrong with it, and what needs to be fixed. Full rebuild over the next winter with a shiny new Rover for next summer.

I have attached another photo that gives you a better idea of condition.

Dave_F · #8 Post by **Dave_F** » Mon Feb 09, 2015 4:43 pm

Good lick with the project.

Fyi...that blue is not RAF Blue.

I've been restoring a 1956 Series 1 that is RAF Blue.

If you can find an unpainted sample that is removable then most auto stores (Lordco) will use a densitometer and create a paint mix that you can have them make up in a spray bomb that you can try out to see if you like it.

I found a nice clean sample under the rover plate in front of the rad, on the slam panel.

Cheers

goldhour · #9 Post by **goldhour** » Mon Feb 16, 2015 2:36 pm

Ok then, definitely not RAF Blue. Probably not even a LR colour, my guess is it was put on with a brush. Your Rover looks fantastic in RAF Blue by the way!

Anyone know how to take paint off of the anodized trim without damaging the Tin coating?

Dave_F · #10 Post by **Dave_F** » Mon Feb 16, 2015 4:22 pm

You can try just paint remover to take it off of the galvanised bits.

I have used aircraft paint remover...very toxic and now have found the gel paint remover that you can pick up at any lumber store works well. Paint it on...let it sit then rinse off.

Greg S · #11 Post by **Greg S** » Tue Feb 17, 2015 9:32 am

goldhour wrote:.. anodized trim without damaging the Tin coating?..

Anodized? Tin Coating?
No such thing on a Land Rover! You must be referring to the Galvanized trim made by hot dipping in a vat of molten lead and zinc.

It pretty much stays where it is, just susceptible to mechanical removal by scraping or grinding it off. Excess heat will also effect it so keep it below melting point.

goldhour · #12 Post by **goldhour** » Tue Feb 24, 2015 8:12 pm

Greg S wrote:...Galvanized trim made by hot dipping in a vat of molten lead and zinc.

Yep, that's what I meant...

goldhour · #13 Post by **goldhour** » Wed Apr 01, 2015 5:54 pm

I have started on the mechanical and have the breaks working again. Just required a bleed as they were rebuilt a few years ago. i have a question for the forum, hopefully you can help me out. It appears that the clutch / brake reservoirs have been replaced with a bit of farmer ingenuity. Or maybe not, that's my question. Is there 2 separate reservoirs on the stock Series 2? Or are they run from one reservoir. Any advice would be appreciated.

IMG_20150401_180346.jpg: (195.16 KiB) Downloaded 5805 times

I found a great article online that describes installing a vacuum booster to a series 2. Just wondering if anyone has had any experience doing this job? http://aluminumfriend.blogspot.ca/2007/ ... nd_02.html

Rambler · #14 Post by **Rambler** » Wed Apr 01, 2015 7:24 pm

Series 2 has a shared brake/clutch fluid reservoir and this feeds the two master cylinders that are mounted to the brake and clutch pedals. Later series 2a's have separate reservoirs and some with power/booster brake systems. The reservoir bottle is an expensive and quite hefty beast, that can be had from a couple of places in the UK. However, if the above set up works, might be just as well to leave alone, unless you are after a concourse / rivet counter type of restoration.

Rambler · #15 Post by **Rambler** » Wed Apr 01, 2015 7:25 pm

Here's a link to one of the retailers and an image to see the set up.

http://www.pegasusparts.co.uk/ourshop_9 ... -Tank.html

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04 ... babafd.jpg

Greg S · #16 Post by **Greg S** » Thu Apr 02, 2015 12:09 am

Seems to me that Rocky Mountain Parts was getting one specially made that looked somewhat like the original. Are they still in production or was it dropped? Ray Woods or Rocky Mountain Parts? Vancouver at any rate.

goldhour · #17 Post by **goldhour** » Thu Apr 02, 2015 9:19 am

Great info Rambler, thanks. Not intending to get it into Concours condition, but I do want a reliable driver I can take off road. If I am going to spend money I figured the brakes would be a good investment. One of the reservoirs (the clutch) leaks and so I will need to replace it. Thought why not replace it with the correct reservoir. I will take out and rebuild the master cylinder on the clutch, but the brake master should be in good shape.

I will price out the reservoir, but will make the lines myself. Is pegasus parts a good location to order these? What about Atlantic British? Any opinion on part suppliers?

Thanks again.

Rambler · #18 Post by **Rambler** » Thu Apr 02, 2015 4:04 pm

You're welcome goldhour. In terms of purchases I've found (with having to buy a lot of parts recently) that shopping from suppliers in the UK is better than those south of the border. Mainly the exchange rate us/cdn is the deal breaker, but all those hidden fees that come with having stuff couriered can make a good deal into an expensive one. I've only placed one order with Pegasus parts and had a positive experience, with fast shipping. I have no experience of Rovers North or Atlantic British, but if you can have things shipped to a us port and then go and collect, that is not a bad thing. Good luck with your brake and clutch repair.
Ian

Just as a footnote. I can recommend Jeremy at Rocky Mountain parts in N.Van and Peter at 3 brothers classic rover in Ontario. Much appreciate their helpful advice on top of good service and a great selection of parts, that are not all listed on their respective websites.

goldhour · #19 Post by **goldhour** » Thu May 28, 2015 12:20 pm

So I had trouble getting to the clutch master cylinder so I took the front wing off. It was quite the ordeal, for example the front wing to radiator shroud had six bolts, four of them broke... ugh. I used up a can of penetrating oil removing the wing, so you might want to buy some stock in that company before I am done!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l4Ay ... 230003.jpg

I ordered a new set of seals for the master cylinder from Pegasus for $5. Should get it in the mail any day now.

red90 · #20 Post by **red90** » Thu May 28, 2015 1:47 pm

A bit late now, but the trick is to remove the complete clutch pedal box when you need to work on the master.

goldhour · #21 Post by **goldhour** » Mon Jun 01, 2015 8:49 am

Thanks red90, if I could get the nuts undone then that would have been a good path. Unfortunately everything is so seized on its probably better that I pulled the fender off anyway.

Janet · #22 Post by **Janet** » Mon Jun 12, 2017 9:50 am

Have you read the article in the latest CLR magazine about the Wimpey yellow series 1's shipped to Shell in vancouver?
I have a similar 1959 series 2 with numbers close to yours which may have been a similar shipment 2 years later, originally green but painted yellow throughout.
I also wonder how your axles numbers etc. line up with mine. I will try to include a couple of pics and my Gaydon document.
VIN 144903026
Engine 151917572
Gearbox 151917658
R.Axle 144904644
F.Axle 141913035
Line # 3116
Despatch June 4 1959
Rover Canada, Vancouver

The Rover-Landers of BC

The Rover-Landers of BC