Dave's Series 2A Rebuild...

[Rambler]

Great, thanks for the helpful advice, I will call in some friends to help and give the straightening a go.
Best wishes with the rest of your rebuild.

[DrRangelove]

Had a good weekend... Victor and Rob from the club paid me a visit on Saturday - thanks for all the advice and encouragement guys... I'm definitely more motivated to get this rebuild moving along now... After the guys left, I managed to get the roof back on - not the easiest one man job I've ever done! Everything seems to line up OKish though I had to do some "repositioning" of the wind screen brackets. This vehicle has definitely been in a mild roll over at some point - the real test will be when I go to put the doors back on...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141115_195842_zps8b59772f.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141122_174553_zps3c90b665.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141122_174608_zps282a165c.jpg

[mepham55]

Looking great Dave, love the colour choice! Ready for founders day possibly?!

Matt

[DrRangelove]

I think we've been shooting for founders day for the last two years running, Matt!

Let's see how progress goes over the next few weeks - The Van Isle summer Rally might be a more optimistic target... though if you sell me that nice shiny reconditioned gearbox you just finished, Founders Day would be one step closer!

[Rambler]

Looking very smart. Great to see what can be done to a classic old beauty

[DrRangelove]

Fitted the tub to van side seals earlier this week... was a bit of a faff and would have been much easier as a two man job but i got there in the end with the help of my trusty ratchet straps!

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141221_143341_zps377ff389.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141221_143341_zps377ff389.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141221_135805_zps64639916.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141221_143332_zpse0bea5e0.jpg

Also did a trial fit on my front door... i only had three door hinge bolts so its far form perfect but i think i can live with it without having to add washers in between the bulkhead and frame!

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141221_153107_zps56ed9f3a.jpg

Hope to get the tub and sides all painted up over Christmas if I can get enough heat into the garage... an old wood stove weed be nice but if I got one of those I don't think the missu would ever see me int he house!

[Greg S]

... an old wood stove weed (edit: would) be nice but if I got one of those I don't think the missu would ever see me int he house!

I'll send her an email. I'm pretty sure she'll be getting you one for Christmas!

[DrRangelove]

Not a massive amount of progress has been made recently but the warmer weather did inspire me to paint some body panels:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150419_170947_zps3iuyzpnn.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150419_172150_zps7aueoatd.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150419_183958_zpsypiqrc00.jpg

I used a tin of Home Hardware "Rust Coat" which is an enamel based tractor type paint and applied it with a cheapo paint brush. She won't win any beauty contests but the finish is much better than I expected and given the rough condition of the bodywork I didn't see the point in spending too much in this department.

- 2 tins of rust coat gloss grey $26
- Jumbo family pack of paint brushes $10
- 10 cans of self etching primer $85
- 1 roll of painter's tape $4
- Not having to look at faded red paint and patches of moldy body filler... priceless

The worst part of this job was removing the rather generous layer of body filler that had been liberally coated over the entire body of the truck. At its thickest, it must have been close to 1/4 inch! I found a few battle scars under the filler, included a shotgun blast peppering on the passenger side door - rather than reapply the filler for some poor bugger to sand it down again in 20 years time I've decided to leave the dents and scrapes as "history" (other wise known as lazy bugger's patina!).

[DrRangelove]

Quick request for assistance while I'm thinking about it... does anyone have a schematic for the break lines on a LHD 109 Series 2A? My manual only has the RHD variant and it's one of those jobs I'd like to get onto before bolting more bits on that will get in the way i.e. the wings!

Cheers

Dave

[LR01011000]

Dave, an observation from the manuals I have (Haynes, Autobooks, and some Rovers North catalogs), and the machines I have worked on (my current '71 2a, and 2 different S3's, all 88's) is that the way the lines are run is the same on the left and right hand drive models, except that the lines to the master are extended across the upper firewall on the left hand drive models to reach the master - in other words, if you pretend you have RHD and use that map of the lines but instead of terminating at the master RHD location continue across to the LHD master location, that will match what the factory did.

I had thought about changing this to avoid the unnecessary run across the firewall on my rebuild, but then I bought the replacement line kit and although I'm not there yet I suspect they supply the lines etc. as from the factory so that is how mine will end up....

ps. I like your approach to the paint, I dislike body filler too and it looks just fine with it's new coat!

[DrRangelove]

Thanks Frank, that's very useful info!

Which kit supplier did you end up going with? The ones from 3BLR in Ontario look alright and reasonably priced and I'm not to keen to make my own lines/fittings!

Cheers

Dave

[DrRangelove]

A couple more photos of the paint job... next up is a coat of "RV white" on the van sides and roof, which is the closest I can find to Limestone without breaking the bank...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150513_082034_zpsqjiqo6sv.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150513_082057_zpssox44qrx.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150513_082106_zpsypmm4tpp.jpg

[LR01011000]

Dave, the brake line kit I got is the Automec (I believe the same as what 3 Brothers sell) - I got mine from Jeremy in North Vancouver. I did not relish the thought of possibly messing up and having leaky joins etc. .... :-)

[DrRangelove]

For reasons not entirely known to me, I woke up on Sunday morning, had a cup of strong coffee, lit my first cigarette of the day and decided "today is the day I start pulling apart my gearbox..."

By 11 am I needed a beer and could not get any further without a 1/4 inch whitworth spanner so the job is on hold... Here are some pics of the "progress":

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150524_123002_zps0r7om1fd.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150524_132148_zpsizoqjbej.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150524_143821_zps1lyqrzyk.jpg

Here's where I had to stop - the "hi/lo" selector rod is connected with a 1/4 W bolt and a 9/16 is the closest I have but I don't want to risk rounding off the head...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150524_163250_zpsliks7wib.jpg

Box of bits for cleaning:
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150524_163322_zpsb76iqhzv.jpg

The bits I've inspected seem pretty good and there's no obvious signs of wear... the intermediate gear, shaft and washers are all good and the hi/lo selector gear looks fine. Main shaft end bearing seems OK to and everything turns freely.

I did notice that I don't have a spring on the yellow lever (4wd selector?) and it doesn't seem to do anything in the output housing when I push it up or down whereas the red lever clearly engages and disengages the hi/lo. Can anyone give me a brief rundown on how the yellow knob actually works. According to my manual, there's also supposed to be a little spring on the red lever ball, sitting in the groove. I don't have one of these, just some caked up mud - what does this spring do and will it need replacing?

I don't fancy getting into the actual gearbox bit too heavily as I think I'll get quickly out of my depth. Does anyone have any tips to look out for and a way of doing a quick inspection without pulling apart the main and lay shaft gears/bearings etc...?

I've never had the gearbox running but was told by the P/O that it was in good working order last he had the vehicle running (many moons ago). The fluid was nice and clean when drained but there was a little black sludge left in the pan - I did not notice any metal filings/shavings and turning the input shaft by hand results in a nice smooth action... My plan is to just tidy up, clean out and renew gaskets before dropping back in the vehicle but any "top tips" that I can use to check for obvious signs of impending doom would be much appreciated!

[LR01011000]

Dave, just on the Whitworth wrench thing - since a 9/16 is close (?), and 9/16 is 14.29 mm, would a 14mm wrench work? I may be confused here....

[DrRangelove]

You're absolutely right mate but my metric wrench set tops out at 12mm... bought a 14mm wrench today and it did the job... iv found a set of whitworths for a good price for future use

[mepham55]

Looks great Dave. Make sure to replace the main seal between the gearbox and transfer box. If you've not found any chipped teeth or metal shavings then leave well enough alone. Make sure the syncro ring has its 3 spring steel springs fitted and they are not deformed. You might want to remove the selector shaft detent springs and balls and clean any crud out of the bores (a magnet on a stick works well) a step further would be to remove the top selector shaft cover. Just note that the reverse selector spring(on the top under the brass plug) is a thicker spring than the 1/2 and 3/4 gear springs(located under those metal "L" brackets on the side.)
While you've got the transfer case separated measure the intermediate gear thrust spacing (measurements are in the book) the shafts easy to remove and the shims are cheap and easy to replace. Also check the pre load on the rear output shaft as well as now would be an easy time to adjust the shims under the speedo housing. If there are any wear lines on the output flanges a new oil seal will just start to leak after a few miles, you can try smoothing the surface with emery paper or replace with a better used flange.
Check the bronze bushing in the front output housing as it can disintegrate, it's the same part as the flywheel pilot bush so it's readily available.

Ok insomnia cured I'm off to bed!

Matt

[DrRangelove]

Thanks Matt - some good tips there...

Do you recall where the bushing is on the output shaft housing? I've pulled mine apart and thoroughly cleaned it and I couldn't see one!

More pics:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150525_194426_zpstsiml8r4.jpg

Output shaft housing bits all cleaned up...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150525_192243_zpssgnqfjjc.jpg

4WD selector shaft and dog bracket... I noticed some corrosion and pitting around the spring and flange so dismantled this to give it a good clean - looks like this mechanism was seized due to lack of use and sitting without fluid for quite some time...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150525_195800_zpsulnyel1g.jpg

Tonight's task - clean up the transfer case and rear output housing. Gears all look good in there and turn freely so I won't be pulling them apart.

[mepham55]

The bronze bush is in the end of the dog gear which engages the front driveshaft.

[DrRangelove]

Not much progress has been made on the old girl but I did manage to get the wings on for a trial fit and the door alignments sorted...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150816_224258_zpsdsvtsmwc.png

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150816_221029.png_zpstwgfhv9y.jpeg

[DrRangelove]

New hardtop plus paint all around...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20160206_102714_zpsxw8kocjh.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20160206_102658_zpswqr3e3jk.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20160206_102624_zpsroxahxpz.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20160206_102731_zpsrcfgqqk4.jpg

[DrRangelove]

Mike and Matt from Victoria came up to help on the Rover yesterday - it was a busy day and we made a ton of progress with the gearbox:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20160304_163423_zpsrlwhgyes.jpg
Degreased and cleaned up main box

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20160304_154535_zpsqpe2ctoo.jpg
Small chip on 2nd gear - the rest of the box passed the Matt Mepham inspection so we decided to just do the oil seal and new gaskets before mating the box back to the transfer case...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20160316_120649_zps9whpirz5.jpg
Reassembly

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20160316_173707_zpsdsnm9pmb.jpg
All back together again - just waiting for a new front output seal and reinstall the clutch before dropping back into the truck.

Thanks for all your help Guys!

[oldgravy]

Looks great, and I like your wheels! The ride height seems just about right, too...

[DrRangelove]

Had a burst of activity this week...
Steering relay back together again!
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Mobile%20Uploads/27ACC8BC-469B-4F65-B1E8-3085D3B198AC_zpsfiitqzfb.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Mobile%20Uploads/948951A7-B59E-4CAF-A4FC-724D1C2A8BBE_zpsrpk1xlaz.jpg

Gearbox ready for refitting...
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Mobile%20Uploads/61BFA4BD-CB2B-45FF-B071-39E5366E6325_zpszyjc2mk3.jpg

And safari rear door bolted on!
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Mobile%20Uploads/4407AD81-4A21-4F03-AE8E-200077BF4F8D_zpsiaf1ptgm.jpg

[ANDYD]

Looking good Dave!
Will she be ready for The Van Isle Rally in June??? :bounce: