D2 Head Gaskets

[scottmb23]

Well, I have owned the D2 for a hot minute and after installing my Ultra Guage today I have a series of misfire codes that may (or may not) be related to an imminent head gasket job. I'm hoping its just a case of
me replacing the MAF wonky when I changed the air filter the other week or perhaps time for a plugs/wires upgrade but in any case I thought this would be a good time to see what the recommendations were for a good
head gasket repair shop were in the lower mainland? Roughly what have people paid and how long has the job taken? Should I supply the kit to take some of the sting out of it?

[acg]

I am lucky so far that I have not had to get my head gaskets changed. Been pretty religious so far with the Ultragauge monitoring and let letting the engine overheat past 210-deg F.

Have you changed to the 180-degree thermostat? that is, the genuine Land Rover grey thermostat, not the Motorad white aftermarket version.

[acg]

I am lucky so far that I have not had to get my head gaskets changed. Been pretty religious so far with the Ultragauge monitoring and let letting the engine overheat past 210-deg F.

Have you changed to the 180-degree thermostat? that is, the genuine Land Rover grey thermostat, not the Motorad white aftermarket version.

[Gromit Dog]

How many KMs on the D2? It is likely that plugs and wires should be done. People often neglect this but I can tell you first hand it's money well spent. It's the first job I do on just about every vehicle I have ever bought. Then it's plugs every 2 years, wires 4 or 5. (except now all my drivers are diesels... hmmmm...)

Warm up the engine and carefully.. VERY CAREFULLY look into the rad or coolant catch bottle (not sure what the D2 set up is. Can you see bubbles? This is a good sign of head gasket issues when combustion gasses escape into the coolant. also smoke (white) out the back, and coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant.


If it's really as bad as all that. These engines are not hard to repair. most shops that do engine work can do the job. I would ask the service guy about parts. To be totally honest, as a former shop owner nothing cheesed me off more than those guys that brought there own parts. (except weirf stuff like Maseratis or vintage cars). It's very expensive to run a shop. There is income made (not all that much at times) from parts. You don't take your own steak to a restaurant. (you don't do you?)

[scottmb23]

I should have clarified a few more details in my original post.

The D2 has 170,000KM on the clock, previous owner, a 'mechanic' had the transmission rebuilt by Stans Transmission (I did verify with Stans). He had also replaced the 02 sensors (front two) and rebuilt the starter prior to selling to me.

I just started on the 150km+ maintenance list as laid out by Disco Mike on the Land Rover forums but had only got as far as oil/filters change (Shell Roetella/Mobil-1 filter/K&N Air). The Ultraguage purchase was to keep an eye on true running temp and gas mileage (or lack thereof..).

The D2 has thrown one Service Engine Light once but it never came on again. Other than that, had a few instances of the Three Amigos but nothing lately. No white smoke to speak of and coolant level doesn't appear to have dropped. Runs a little hot at 210 degrees Fahrenheit Hwy and after the commute tends to idle between 210-215.

So, set of 8mm Magnecore on the shopping list then?

[red90]

For a head job, the parts will be nothing compared to the labour bill. It is a lot of labour.

[scottmb23]

For a head job, the parts will be nothing compared to the labour bill. It is a lot of labour.

Yes, I am aware, I saw the kit for $120 or so and have read enough to know that it seems to take the more experienced mechanics at least
10 hours or so to complete. I suppose what I am looking for is some recommendations on shops that are reputable that don't charge an arm and a leg
for labor.

[99Disco2]

For a head job, the parts will be nothing compared to the labour bill. It is a lot of labour.

Yes, I am aware, I saw the kit for $120 or so and have read enough to know that it seems to take the more experienced mechanics at least
10 hours or so to complete. I suppose what I am looking for is some recommendations on shops that are reputable that don't charge an arm and a leg
for labor.

Just my two cents worth but, check your upper rad hose and see if it is rock hard and really, really hot. Now check your rad and see if the upper half is super hot and the lower really cold to the touch. We found that we had a plugged rad and screwed t-stat that made us overheat. Also don't waste your time flushing the rad, just buy a new one if it has crapped out . I agree with Andrew (acg) as well about the 180° t-stat and make sure its original LR, motorad are CRAP!
The head gasket job is not that bad if you have some mechanical skill and the right tools. I myself have done them and now run a fully rebuilt and sleeved engine that rarely goes over 200° while idling in 25° heat.

[Gromit Dog]

Check the cooling system for hot and cool spots as described. and yes check for the correct T-stat. Other than that one Check Engine Light is not too concerning on an older vehicle. I have a $70 code reader which is great for keeping tabs on things, and actually better in many ways than the $5k one I bought for my shop.

From what I have read here.. I'd say it's unlikely you have blown a head gasket.

B

[red90]

It is not a hard job, either if you are willing to do it.

[Gromit Dog]

What engine does it have? $120 is very cheap! even at my cost through jobbers it's more than that. I think the headbolts are Torque to yield, so they must be replaced... and they ain't cheap (usually)

I was looking at older style v8's though.

[scottmb23]

What engine does it have? $120 is very cheap! even at my cost through jobbers it's more than that. I think the headbolts are Torque to yield, so they must be replaced... and they ain't cheap (usually)

I was looking at older style v8's though.

Its the 4.0 V8 Bosch, I had that price wrong but close, $170 from Atlantic British - http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC4082BK

Of course you also need the Head Bolt Kit, $80 from the same supplier. I suppose there is also the cost of having the heads machined.

In any case, I am hoping it doesn't need it just yet, here are the Trouble Codes that Ultra Guage throws up:

P1300 - Catalyst damaging misfire multiple cylinders
P0301,P0303,P0305,P0307 - Misfire Codes (Misfire Cylinder 1/3/5/7)

[scottmb23]

Quick update - just bumped into previous owner who told me he did change plugs (basic plugs he thinks) around 8 months ago when he did the front O2 sensors before Air Care. He told me the wires are likely original and need to be replaced. This job looks like a bit of a PITA for what it is.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMNhOzAkQC8

[99Disco2]

Quick update - just bumped into previous owner who told me he did change plugs (basic plugs he thinks) around 8 months ago when he did the front O2 sensors before Air Care. He told me the wires are likely original and need to be replaced. This job looks like a bit of a PITA for what it is.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMNhOzAkQC8

I found that if you very gently bend the ac lines that run along the fire towards the fire wall it gives you more clearance and makes the job much easier.

[scottmb23]

I don't want to jinx it (but this probably will) but I jiggled the air box, MAF connection and plug wires in an effort to see if anything was loose. I may have imagined
it but some things felt like they might have snapped into place a bit better and...no more trouble codes...for now.. :|