Dave's Series 2A Rebuild...

[DrRangelove]

Well I finally bit the bullet and decided it wasn't worth trying to salvage anything out of my original hackjob of a Series 2A Land Rover. Despite a seemingly solid motor and gearbox, the frame was too far modified and the bulkhead bordering on the hazardous (see green frame pics below). So I picked up another Series 2A from a bloke in Ladner who'd had it stored in on of his green houses for the last 10 years. Got it a couple of weeks ago and hauled it back to the Island (BC Ferries cost a small fortune by the way!) and have had a chance to give everything a good going over with the body off the frame:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Landy5_zps56871f8c.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Landy7_zpsd81c27d7.jpg

Having been stored inside for a number of years the frame is really in excellent shape - a quick pressure wash, some cutting to get the custom bumper/wood basket/winch support and a bit of straitening of the rear cross member out rigger and she'll be ready for a nice fresh coat of chassis paint... OK maybe a few surface rust spots will need attention but its great to finally have a solid foundation for a project.

Here she is before being unloaded form the trailer (note body just resting on frame for transport):

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Landy9_zpsc2aa6d18.jpg

Here's that bent outrigger:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Landy6_zps29625887.jpg

[DrRangelove]

I suspect the vehicle was tipped on its side at one point due to the bent outrigger and slight damage to the body panels on one side (lot's of ugly filler that I've been chiseling away at). The odometer only shows 27,000 miles which I believe to be correct as it was last registered for road use in 1974...

Here's the extent of the filler... door might be beyond saving - will for sure be getting Rocky Mountain door tops:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Landy4_zps071aab9b.jpg

Bulkhead is nice and solid - virtually rust free:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Landy8_zps931ab0e7.jpg

Before I can really do anything I have to make some room in the garage so the little green monster has to go:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/LandRover_zps0bf78b3a.jpg

The above picture shows some of the "modifications" done by the P/O to salvage the rotten frame and bulkhead. It was fine for tractor use but no way this was ever going to get back on the road. I'll be taking the axles, engine and gearbox from this one and scrapping the frame/bulkhead/tub - please shout if anyone wants it! I'm in the process of doing this now - pic below shows the bulkhead off, engine and gearbox cleaned up and fornt axles out:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Landy2_zps0f7d9f06.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Landy1_zpsc03cd991.jpg

Apparently the engine is seized on the project vehicle and there's a BIG crack in the bell housing so I'm happy to have an extra engine ready to go... Once the donor vehicle is out of the way the hard work begins... plan to tackle it in the following order to maximise my available garage space:

1. Strip down project vehicle to the frame.
2. Clean up frame, prep for chassis paint, straighten outrigger (any tips???) and remove seized bulkhead tie bolt (not looking forward to this bit).
3. Paint chassis
4. Install rear parabolics, new bushes, shocks etc...
5. Paint rear axle, overhaul rear breaks, reinstall axle
6. recondition tub, refit tub
7. Figure out what needs doing on engine and gearbox...

I haven't set a time frame for this project as it's my first vintage Landy and my first real attempt at anything like this before. This will not be a full nuts and bolts restoration so please no snarky comments from bolt counters if there's any out there! I also won't be looking to get every crease and ding out of the body work - I intend to use this vehicle off road when she's finished and expect I'll be putting some of my own battle scars on her too!

Anyone have any tips on removing the engine and gearbox? I access to a decent hoist and the bulkhead/seatbox are all out so is it really as simple as undoing a few bolts and steady as she goes?

Cheers

Dave

[DrRangelove]

Been a bit busy with house renovations and work recently but here's the little progress I have made:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r69 ... 08ef01.jpg

Got rid of the custom bumper and winch mounts.

Had to cut off one of the bulkhead outriggers as the tie bolt was not coming out...

Next step is off to my welding guy with the frame for a little patching, straightening and reattachment of a britpart outrigger then painting of the chassis.

Anyone had any experience with POR-15 chassis paint? Any other products that you'd recommend?

[mepham55]

Looking good Dave,

I used por15 on most of the steel parts under my rover, that was 5 years ago and its held up really well.
For my chassis I used por15's chassis black. The trick with por15 is its not UV tolerant so its best used on hidden areas.

Matt

[Greg S]

It looks good. I had a frozen bulkhead bolt but was able to get it out with a good punch and a 4 pound hammer. Took quite a bit of hammering and I missed my hand every time.:) Glad I didn't have to cut the outrigger off. Good tidy wire harness, easy to continue to the peripherals. I stripped mine down almost to that point but left the engine in place. Moving around 600# of engine wasn't high on my list. The gearbox comes out easy like you have it. Lift it out by hand is how I did it. A bit heavy but doable. Helps to have an assistant.

POR 15, I like it and it goes really far. Quart can will do you chassis several times. YOU HAVE TO PUT A PLASTIC SHEET OVER THE LID OF THE CAN BEFORE YOU PUT THE LID BACK ON. Or you won't get the lid back off. Sorry, hope your ears are okay. I didn't mean to shout THAT loud but there's no volume button on this keyboard. Not UV stable to put a coat of something else over top.

[DrRangelove]

Thanks for the feedback and useful pointers Matt and Greg...

On the tie bolt, I was maybe a bit hasty with the angle grinder and in retrospect should have had a bit more patience - but what's done is done... will have to take extra special care to ensure the outrigger lines up properly with the bulkhead - some "double trial fitting" will be required!

Did you guys use a specific type of primer under the POR-15 or can it go straight onto red oxide?

Cheers

Dave

[mepham55]

Por15 is best put on bare steel. The best thing would be to removal all old paint grease then spray with a phosphoric acid(available from marine shops) then paint the por15 on.

Matt

[DrRangelove]

Bit of an update... made a bit of progress since I last posted.

Rear cross member straightened out and repair pieces cut...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_0886_zps433e078c.jpg

New bulkhead outrigger welded into place:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_0885_zps582daaa8.jpg

A little bit concerned that the Britpart piece doesn't fit flush with the main frame rail but we trial fittted the bulkhead and checked measurements form quite a few reference points... we'll see how it is when it's time to put everything back together again I suppose...

Prepped and painted the chassis in red oxide primer (brushed on). I've left the original paint in tact under the primer and just degreased/keyed the surface before applying. I figure that the factory paint has lasted 50 years without any issues so there wasn't much point going back to bare metal.

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_0963_zps7f36338f.jpg

Will let the red oxide set for a few days before applying some tremclad and then a top coat of waxoil for ultimate protection - who needs to spend 3 grand on a galvanised chassis?!

While working on my replacement rear axle (the one on the truck has a broken shock mounting bracket) I discovered a broken half shaft. From what I've heard, this is a week point on the series Land Rovers. Hopefully the axle on the truck has a good half shaft that I can swap over.

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/RearAxleDismantle_zpsf534e8c6.jpg

[mepham55]

Looking good Dave! Those welds are much prettier than mine! Maybe it'll be up and running for the ralley in the valley this June?!

Matt

[DrRangelove]

Cheers Matt, I can't take the credit for the welds I'm afraid. A mate of mine (who also owns a 2A) traded some welding time for the old truck cab.

June you say?? That might be a bit optimistic unless I bring her down on the back of a flat bed!

Got some gearbox work that'll need doing - might need to pick your brains on that.

Cheers

Dave

[DrRangelove]

A few more pics of rear axle bits getting the tremclad treatment...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_0977_zps560bdd18.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_0976_zpsffa746ad.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_0975_zpsb5f36ef9.jpg

Anyone have any tips for getting the diff pinion oil seal out?

Cheers

Dave

[DrRangelove]

A few more pics of my progress... frame is basically free of any old bits (except for the steering relay - almost impossible to get out without any weight on the truck).

Rear paras and axle are on:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_0985_zpsa8569501.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_0990_zpsdedca595.jpg

Did the Head gaskets too - the motor looks in real good shape. Pistons are good, no scoring but there was evidence that the old HGs were leaking...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_0991_zpse7eba044.jpg

Got break lines, backing plates and shoes/cylinders on the rear axle now but no pics just yet... currently prepping the front end of the frame and waiting for some new wheel studs so i can get the rear hubs back on and get some rubber back on the ground.

Next steps will be the front axle and putting the rear tub back on the frame.

[DrRangelove]

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140704_1748311_zps19349d76.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140704_1748001_zps96449a84.jpg

Got the rear axle all put back together again... ended up putting Series 3 pull in wheel studs so had to drill out the brake drum holes to make them fit. Fresh oil is now in the axle and so far no leaks!

The only issue I have is I broke one of the drive flange bolts when torquing up. It's gonna have to get drilled out or extracted so will be running on 5 out of 6 bolts until I can get round to that as I don't fancy draining the oil and pulling the half shaft and hub off (again!).

Series 3 lug nuts are on their way so I'll have the rear wheels back on shortly...

[Greg S]

You probably don't have to take anything off to get the broken bolt out. Go to an industrial supplier (not CT) and buy a reverse drill bit, 1/4" should do. Drill in the centre of the bolt after your centre punch it, and the drill turning in reverse will back out the bolt as it bights and grabs as it drills.

I've found these bolts come tight a few thou (not noticeable) before the bolt head comes tight on the flange because a PO had used too much gasket maker or something when put together and had pushed excess material and debris into the hole. Bolt bottoms out on the crap and when it feels tight and you torque it, it twists the bolt off instead of holding the flange on.

[DrRangelove]

Yup you're exactly right greg - those holes on the hub get easily filled in with crap... might be worth getting a tap and die set for these and give em a good going over once in a while.

[DrRangelove]

Picked up some nice wolf wheels from AndyD - thanks mate!

Couldn't resist throwing the rear tub on and the new wheels - I really like the way the increased ride height form the springs and the larger offset from the wolf rims look:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140722_1841001_zps9b9055cd.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140722_1840361_zps6760b253.jpg

[DrRangelove]

Managed to get the old chassis bushes out last weekend:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140810_151556_zpsa7fbe5f6.jpg

This was a job I was not looking forward to but after a bit of trial and error with the first side I as able to get the other side out in about 20 minutes. The best method I found was to burn off the rubber with a torch and remove the inner sleeve. I then cut the outer sleeve with a hacksaw, bent up the edges and applied some penetrating fluid and more heat. I was able to drift them out pretty easily after that.

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140810_172200_zps3a1d2fe5.jpg

Springs and shackles are now on... time to get working on the front axle...

[DrRangelove]

A little bit more "progress" the last few days... It took me a while to figure out that a donor axle from an RHD vehicle isn't going to work on a LHD vehicle without playing around with king pins and shims so I have to take of the nicely painted RHD axle and rebuild the LHD one...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140826_1842451_zpscb4fde4a.jpg

LHD axle in dis assembly:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140826_195645_zps5e64cef7.jpg

Half shafts all came out easily. No damage or wear to report:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140826_195606_zpsffb799da.jpg

May get round to rebuilding the Warn hubs that came with the LHD axle one day but this can wait for now as they're pretty seized up internally. Will nick the standard drive flanges off of the RHD axle to get up and running...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140826_195830_zps8b3dcedd.jpg

Next step is to remove the swivel housings and get some new swivel seals, clean and paint the RHD axle and get it back on the frame. one step closer to a rolling chassis!

[ANDYD]

Looking Good Dave .... I can see her being ready for Founders day in Jan 2015 followed by a full year of camping / exploring!

[DrRangelove]

A little bit of an update...

New races for the hubs, sand blasted and painted:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140916_195614_zps625fc4aa.jpg

New swivel oil seals:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140911_144626_zps27df7827.jpg

Front brakes completely overhauled:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140915_190914_zps29b12320.jpg

Back on all four tyres:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140923_184648_zpscf70b7f4.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140923_184705_zps15d9e290.jpg

[Rambler]

Hi,
I have a similar bend in my rear cross member, in my series ii project chassis, that is otherwise good.
I note that you straightened this successfully, is this some I could do at home with tools bought at CT or princess? Any advice you have would be great, thank you.

[Rambler]

Great looking rebuild and the helpful step by step photos and postedadvice are much appreciated. Thanks.

[DrRangelove]

Hi,
I have a similar bend in my rear cross member, in my series ii project chassis, that is otherwise good.
I note that you straightened this successfully, is this some I could do at home with tools bought at CT or princess? Any advice you have would be great, thank you.

Check out the pic on page 1 - we used a chain to anchor the truck and then a decent hydraulic jack to "pull" the bend back in place after a bit of heat... my friend is a body shop guy and was able to help out - Probably could have done it at home with a couple of good anchor points but it was easier and quicker to do it at his place with his set up...

[DrRangelove]

A few more pics...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141003_093723_zpsfca3e7a2.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141003_095528_zps4cdfcb67.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141003_095543_zps18264dbc.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141003_095551_zps9cc6547d.jpg

[DrRangelove]

Engine is back in now... not too far away from firing her back up again. Plan to get the bulkhead back on first and redo some of the electrics...