I've got a 1997 disco V8 auto. The previous owner put on rear off road lights. They mysteriously stopped working about a week ago. After a big search, I finally found the correct fuse (10a) and changed it. The new one blew immediately. I tried a 20a. It didn't blow, but it didn't turn on the lights either.
Anyone have any ideas? Btw, rest of car works. Battery is charged. (Yes, I removed the 20a and returned it to its proper place.)
Thanks in advance!
Rear work lights - help
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mepham55
- Spanner Man
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Re: Rear work lights - help
Most likely a bad ground. You'll have to trace the wires from the lights and hope the previous owner made it easy for you.
Matt
Matt
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Crs
- Missing Link
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Re: Rear work lights - help
:?:
Sorry. I'm very new at this. What's a bad ground? How do I check for one? I get the idea of following the wires from the battery to the lights, but what am I actually looking for?
Thanks!
Sorry. I'm very new at this. What's a bad ground? How do I check for one? I get the idea of following the wires from the battery to the lights, but what am I actually looking for?
Thanks!
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ANDYD
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Re: Rear work lights - help
Craig,
Most off-road lights are high ampage so they would have to run through a relay. The power supply from the fuse is taken to one side of a switching relay, the dash switch just operates that switching relay. So when you click on the dash switch it closes the relay and allows the power from the fuse to go through to the lights. It sounds like the relay is bad and not operating correctly (or failed totally), these relays are common and fairly cheap $5 to $10. These relays often burn out if they have to be energized to remain in their normal state. (ie energized to keep the switch open until you push the dash button, then it closes). The relays also normally need a negative (or "ground") to make them work which may be loose of not connecting well.
When we say "bad ground" we mean the connection on the negative side. Power (Positive +) is taken to one side of the light and the negative side of the light is ofter taken to the nearest metal connection (-ve or "ground") These connections to metal aften become corroded, loose or rusty leading to what is termed a "bad ground".
Try following the power wire to see if it leads to a relay tucked away somewhere. Then check the negative (ground) connections on the actual lights.
If this makes no sense at all, :?: I can explain further on Founders day ...
Cheers,
Andy
Most off-road lights are high ampage so they would have to run through a relay. The power supply from the fuse is taken to one side of a switching relay, the dash switch just operates that switching relay. So when you click on the dash switch it closes the relay and allows the power from the fuse to go through to the lights. It sounds like the relay is bad and not operating correctly (or failed totally), these relays are common and fairly cheap $5 to $10. These relays often burn out if they have to be energized to remain in their normal state. (ie energized to keep the switch open until you push the dash button, then it closes). The relays also normally need a negative (or "ground") to make them work which may be loose of not connecting well.
When we say "bad ground" we mean the connection on the negative side. Power (Positive +) is taken to one side of the light and the negative side of the light is ofter taken to the nearest metal connection (-ve or "ground") These connections to metal aften become corroded, loose or rusty leading to what is termed a "bad ground".
Try following the power wire to see if it leads to a relay tucked away somewhere. Then check the negative (ground) connections on the actual lights.
If this makes no sense at all, :?: I can explain further on Founders day ...
Cheers,
Andy
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Crs
- Missing Link
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- Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2012 3:16 pm
Re: Rear work lights - help
:?: thanks, Andy! Let's talk... :D