Hi just found this site and wanted to join in. I have had a like of land rovers since I was a teenager (41 now)I have always admired their looks and have always wanted to own one.
not sure why I have waited so long but I think I may just become an owner fairly soon.
so I am looking for advise, the models that I think might work for me are early 90's county model or a mid 90's disco(as I see they are refered to here).
I am looking for advise of what to look for and what to look out for. are there rust issues? what mechanical stuff should I take a close look at. How about little tips like one I saw on here that the disco 1 has center diff lock but the disco 2;s didnt get it till 5 years after it was introduced or something.
I want something I can start with that will be a good daily driver and lift about 3" and put some BFG muds onto.what is the cost of a lift kit and where would I get one?
my dream rover would be one of those Defender 90's they imported for a couple years in the early 90's but unfortunatly my budget is something less than what it would take to get one of those.thanks for some input x
new guy
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DaveB
- Defender of the World
- Posts: 1749
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 7:45 pm
- Location: Vernon, BC
Welcome to our Forum!
I think you'll find many of your questions answered by doing some reading. We've had some pretty good discussions of what's the best truck for a first time buyer.
My opinion, the best truck is the one that you fall in love with. Sometimes it may not be the "best" year or model, but all Land Rovers (with the exception of the Freelander) are built on a similar off-roading platform and will take you places you wouldn't believe possible.
cheers, Dave
I think you'll find many of your questions answered by doing some reading. We've had some pretty good discussions of what's the best truck for a first time buyer.
My opinion, the best truck is the one that you fall in love with. Sometimes it may not be the "best" year or model, but all Land Rovers (with the exception of the Freelander) are built on a similar off-roading platform and will take you places you wouldn't believe possible.
cheers, Dave
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Bill E.
- Landy Man
- Posts: 933
- Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2004 12:30 pm
- Location: Tsawwassen BC
Like Dave said, welcome to the forum. Why not come out to our club meeting tonight, 7:30 p.m. at the Rickie's Restaurant at 88th Avenue and 152 Street in Surrey? There are always a number of Land-Rovers and their owners attending and we love to stand around in the parking lot and tell lies about our trucks. Guests are always welcome.
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xcaribooer
thanks for the invite but i work pm shift.
I guess to start my search I would like to know the difference if any between the drivetrain of a early 90's county and a mid/late 90's discovery,is one stronger? more trouble free or anything like that?
I realise there is alot of info on here in other posts and I am going to spend some time searching around here, thanks
I guess to start my search I would like to know the difference if any between the drivetrain of a early 90's county and a mid/late 90's discovery,is one stronger? more trouble free or anything like that?
I realise there is alot of info on here in other posts and I am going to spend some time searching around here, thanks
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Bill E.
- Landy Man
- Posts: 933
- Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2004 12:30 pm
- Location: Tsawwassen BC
I'm not sure which vehicles you are referencing in your question, there is no model called a "country". There is a range of trim levels in all three models of 1990's Land-Rovers which include names like country, county, signature etc.
Throughout the 1990's Land-Rover produced essentially three different vehicles, the Range-Rover, the Discovery, and the Defender. Within these three models from 1990 thru 1999 there were two body styles of the Range-Rover, the first has become known as the 'classic'(short or long wheelbase) and the second is referred to as the P-38. Discoveries (or Discos) came in two body styles, now known as series 1 and series 2, with series 2 taking over in the 1999 model year. Defenders ran throughout the 1990's worldwide essentially with the same look but in two wheel bases here in North America, 90 and 110 . You will find some off-shore spec vehicles and some military trucks on the market but basically all of the North American specification Land-Rovers came with derivatives of Rover's aluminum block V8 engine, itself a derivative of an old GM block. All domestic market 1990's trucks are coil sprung, solid axle, full frame vehicles. All have their detractors and their proponents. Terms like 'most trouble free' and 'strongest' are relative to your perspective. Gains in reliability have come to car companies through tecnological advancement and refinement but sometimes that technology has added complication and expense. Refinement has taken the rough edges off but has also taken the tough edges off. Land-Rover has seen the influence of all this recent evolution. These are the very basics, start there and ask more specifics as you go along. Good Luck.
Throughout the 1990's Land-Rover produced essentially three different vehicles, the Range-Rover, the Discovery, and the Defender. Within these three models from 1990 thru 1999 there were two body styles of the Range-Rover, the first has become known as the 'classic'(short or long wheelbase) and the second is referred to as the P-38. Discoveries (or Discos) came in two body styles, now known as series 1 and series 2, with series 2 taking over in the 1999 model year. Defenders ran throughout the 1990's worldwide essentially with the same look but in two wheel bases here in North America, 90 and 110 . You will find some off-shore spec vehicles and some military trucks on the market but basically all of the North American specification Land-Rovers came with derivatives of Rover's aluminum block V8 engine, itself a derivative of an old GM block. All domestic market 1990's trucks are coil sprung, solid axle, full frame vehicles. All have their detractors and their proponents. Terms like 'most trouble free' and 'strongest' are relative to your perspective. Gains in reliability have come to car companies through tecnological advancement and refinement but sometimes that technology has added complication and expense. Refinement has taken the rough edges off but has also taken the tough edges off. Land-Rover has seen the influence of all this recent evolution. These are the very basics, start there and ask more specifics as you go along. Good Luck.
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xcaribooer
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DaveB
- Defender of the World
- Posts: 1749
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 7:45 pm
- Location: Vernon, BC
If it's currently air suspension, its a little bit different than a currently coil sprung truck. This is because you have to remove the air bags, and not simply replace them with coils, but need to add the correct coil spring seats, and shock mounts. There are kits available to do this, and the cost of the additional hardware isn't that much.
However, I would steer you towards a 2 inch lift rather than a 3 inch lift. The reason for this is you can generally get away with only changing springs and shocks (conversion items above aside) with a 2 inch lift, while to go to 3 inches or above it starts affecting the steering geometry and therefore any decent kit also includes a bunch of additional items: shortened shock towers, custom panhard rod, angle adjusted radius arms, and various other bits.
End result... typical 2" lift, springs and shocks $700, typical 3 " lift, springs shocks and additional hardware $1500-1700.
A 2 inch lift will accommodate many big tire combinations, up to 31.5 inch diameter (235/85R16) without body trimming.
I checked Roverparkboys.com and they have a kit but little detail. They should be able to make suggestion regarding the specifics if you give them a call.
To give you an idea of what is involved, look at these parts from Atlantic British:
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9265.cfm
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/8570.cfm
Often needed as well at the same time: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/TVF100010G.cfm
(This was introduced in late 94 so your truck may have a rear u-joint instead.)
cheers, Dave
However, I would steer you towards a 2 inch lift rather than a 3 inch lift. The reason for this is you can generally get away with only changing springs and shocks (conversion items above aside) with a 2 inch lift, while to go to 3 inches or above it starts affecting the steering geometry and therefore any decent kit also includes a bunch of additional items: shortened shock towers, custom panhard rod, angle adjusted radius arms, and various other bits.
End result... typical 2" lift, springs and shocks $700, typical 3 " lift, springs shocks and additional hardware $1500-1700.
A 2 inch lift will accommodate many big tire combinations, up to 31.5 inch diameter (235/85R16) without body trimming.
I checked Roverparkboys.com and they have a kit but little detail. They should be able to make suggestion regarding the specifics if you give them a call.
To give you an idea of what is involved, look at these parts from Atlantic British:
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9265.cfm
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/8570.cfm
Often needed as well at the same time: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/TVF100010G.cfm
(This was introduced in late 94 so your truck may have a rear u-joint instead.)
cheers, Dave