washer squirters, hood leaks and door seals.

[seapotato]

First off windshield washer squirters. I have some on my truck but I'm buggered if I can find where the hoses run to.

are these factory? and so, does anyone know where the hoses go to??? I've had just about every part of the dash apart and back together and haven't seen any sign of a hose. So I may just forget about them and add some to the hood, but if they're already there....

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j171/ ... irters.jpg

Secondly, where the hood meets the fenders. strikes me that a ton of water is going to sheet in over the fender onto the engine when driving, is this pretty much the case?

I'm thinking of either riveting a piece of angle onto the fender with the raised bit inside the hood to divert the water, or maybe just a thick bit of weather stripping. Leaning towards the angle tho. would also serve to stiffen the fenders a bit.

And lastly, Door seal. Most of mine are completely perished. any opinions of bulk door seals out there? ones that are sold by the foot as opposed to kits? ( i'm kinda cheap.... :lol: )

[Greg S]

The metal is only one layer at the washers. The ends should be clearly visible if you remove the defroster vents. Washers were an option on most models so they could be original or more likely added by a PO. Switch and resivoir could be anywhere.

Fenders? Not much water gets in there. Really! But it is real effective at cooling. I wouldn't seal it up or put a deflector there.

Door seals? I have some stuff I got from JC Whitney. A lot of work as the edge of the door needs to be cut back. Now I have to replace my windshields too because of the pitting from the grinder. A lot of work for not much gain. Have a look at what Wise Owl sells. Dixon might have some too. I'd go with the glue on stuff if I could do it over again.

Come over and see what I used and how it works.

[sailourboy]

I have seen folks using the rubber seal out of car trunks (any make) . Thought it was a bit off until I saw it in the UK on a series truck, seemed to keep the water and wind out.
Cheers
Ted

[Dave_F]

I bought 10' of door seal from KMS Auto out in Coquitlam for my rear tailgate and hatch. Worked fantastic. Good high quality with the lip section reinforced with steel that can be bent.

The problem with the doors is the two top corners. You would have to cut the seal at 45 as it wouldn't bend that far. Doable though I think with a little rubber adhesive, you could probably pull it off. You may have to grind down the lip on the pillar and h-top as I believe the older models have the lip.

If you do go the "original" or OEM route go for the 1 piece seals. You will still have to grind off the lip however with the one piece type.

[seapotato]

Thanks,

For the squirters I just went out and had another look thinking I must be losin it, I may have found them, metals actually two layers thick there , and they go inside this one doubled up bit, and don't come out the other side...
Think I found a hole that may lead to them, I'll have to do more squinting with a better light.
I need to change out my column switch to get the self-park function of the intermittents working so I'll mess with it when I have it apart for that.


For the hood, I have an ulterior motive as well, pass side fender has a big wow in it that doesn't want to go straight, so the angle would serve two purposes there.

I'm contemplating building some of those tube( sorry, still can't bring myself to say wings... :P ) fenders you see out there on the web for it later on, I think that'd be pretty cool, so I don't want to spend much time on the ones I have. something like these... http://www.ppcages.com/index.php?Rollcage=lrwingkit


Door seals..kms stuff sounds intersting. I'll do some more poking around in the next while. I don't mind a bit of grinding, and I'm thinking keeping the passenger in the front seat somewhat dry is probably a good plan, and that's the worst seal of the bunch...

[rick.m]

Most of the motor home and RV shops sell a 3/4 inch bulb seal by the foot, works great to fill gaps, and has a great glue strip on it, is easy to mitre the corners as well. all the best, rick mellenger.

[N Hamelin]

Rovahfarm sells the defender door seals pretty cheap and are a beautiful install on a series with a bit of grinding. Alan at Roverworks showed me how he retrofits them onto the series and they are nothing short of perfect. A buddy of mine just did this to his 109 and loves the results as well. I have a generic seal on my doors (sold as a series replacement part, but not the same as original) that works okay, but I have found that I have had to install flat weather seal on the doors themselves to ensure a complete seal all the way around. Like I said, it works okay but if I was going to do it again I would definately go with the defender set-up.

[seapotato]

those seals definately look like the ticket, about 230 bucks to do the whole truck from that shop, which isn't too bad, considering it'll cost a bunch to do it half ass anyways.

I like the little seals for the bottom too, I've been trying to figger out how I'd deal with that part of the door.

cheers,
r