74 88

[upchuck]

I have a 74 series III 88 that I had tore down 3 years ago and now I am starting to move on it. I have a new used frame that had been completely refurbished to replace the unsalvageable frame and I'm going today pick up newly made springs from Okanagan Springs. I thought that if anything I should build off a solid base. I have no rebuild experience and I want to do things right and cost effective. My thought is to now get the rolling chassis so I can work out in my drive way, everything is in piles and either tarped shelved or stacked. Is there a nut and bolt package so that when putting together one can replace one by one? Excuse the ignorance I am no gear head . :roll:

[Bill E.]

Dear Upchuck,
I don't think you will have any luck finding a complete nut and bolt package worth acquiring to assist you in your restoration. Such a kit would be cost prohibitive and mostly unnecessary. Landrover fasteners are generally good quality even as late as 1974. Everything is available as a replacement but just a general cleaning will give years of serviceable life back to most nuts and bolts. Certainly bolts that are obviously stressed or work hardened or frozen inside bushings should be replaced. Try and resist replacing good grade fine thread bolts with cheap national coarse bin bolts and although SS bolts and screws are a nice option in some cases, just bear in mind that SS is not graded in the same way as steel and may not be up to the job under certain load conditions. Purists will definitely scoff at non-stock items so if you have any aspirations of presenting your vehicle at shows be conscious of devaluing your investment as you reassemble. Remember that although your bits and pieces look a bit ratty at the moment they come from a thirty-five year old truck that has given good service. Cheap replacement fasteners may look good today but will they look that way in a few years? It sounds like you have got the right idea by starting with a good base to build from and if you work from that concept coupled with a healthy respect for the original engineering and a dose of skepticism for the bean counters short cuts your 88 should turn out great.
Bill

[John]

Bill has given you some excellent advice. Not to burst your bubble but I suggest that you will not achieve comparable performance out of domestically built springs in comparison to the OEM version as it is my understanding that the spring steel used by Rover is not the same as that found domestically. Maybe you have already made allowances for this in the design of your new spring but if you have attempted to duplicate for example an 8 leaf design with the same number of leaves made from domestically available material I think that you are in for a harsh ride. Many have gone this route in the past and been disappointed.

Good luck with your project.

[upchuck]

Thanks Bill and John. Bill I will heed what you said I have thrown nothing away but the pile since twice moved is daunting. John I hear you and I had looked for a couple options first parabolic then rebuilds, lastly Rover works suggested Okanagan Spring Suspension which he used many times. I was also told by someone who was big into Landcruisers that they had used OSS as well and were greatly satisfied. That all said the proof in the pudding I may have to strap on the kidney belt before I jump onto the buckboard. I want a fun useful vehicle that maintains its mystique as the worlds foremost 4x4. Thanks again and I look forward to more advice because I will need it!

[Greg S]

Having just completed a four+ year strip-down and reassembly, I can advise you to not dally. I had a new seal fail, probably by sitting for a couple years, installed but not used. Brake cylinders corroded just sitting in the garage, previously good working components, not stripped down and rebuilt, failed from sitting around unused for too long; simple things like that. All totally unexpected too might I add. It cost me time and money, extra, by taking so long in the reassembly.

What Bill says about nuts and bolts is true and I agree with him, BUT, I didn't follow his good advice and will be able to advise you whether I was wise or not after a few years of hard use. I swapped out studs with SAE studs to have "normal" nuts to deal with. I also used fine thread SAE bolts and nuts where I could so wrenches would be a standard size. Eliminated lock washers in a few places by using Nylock nuts, and used short, course thread bolts at the top of the windshield. Only time will tell if I made a good choice or a mistake. My vehicle is a 1970 and seemed to be a merry mix of UNF, BSF, SAE and maybe even metric; hard to tell what some of it was, but certainly weird.

Good luck with the project. And like Bill says, stick with the original.

Mine has been out of the shop and on the road for less than 2 weeks now and I've already put 3,900 miles on it. Damn good shake-down drive.

[gudjeon]

I did the similar thing as above in using UNF where I could. On the body bolts, I used galvanized washers to try keeping some corrosion down. I retained the practice of spring lock washers as I never had one come loose in doing this. When I made new leaf spring shackles, I went to 9/16 UNF, grd8 bolts and lock washers. Any time in the future, local replacement is made easier.

The only fasteners I left original were on the engine and powertrain. For ujoints and park brake drum, I went to my local industrial house and selected length of bolts that had the same unthreaded shank length as the original, then cut off the excess. This gets around the odd sizing lengths that some of these may seem to have.

There is something to be said for using "hardware store" grade bolts for the body. Years later, when they are rusted solid, you can break them off using 1/2" drive, speeding up the process. :lol:
Plenty of never seize compound as well.

[seapotato]

Plenty of never seize compound as well.

just remember not to buy the copper stuff, the nickel is a bit safer with different metals...

cheers,
r

[gudjeon]

I always use the graphite based stuff - Permatex. :thumbleft:

[upchuck]

Greg I will have some of the same issues since I purchased my brake cylinders 3 years ago as well as my shoes thinking I would have the time. From now on purchases are to take place when I am at the point of need. I don't want to get to far ahead f my self again. :roll:

[Greg S]

Sitting on a shelf won't hurt the brake parts as far as I know. Mine had been used a few months in the winter before parking her in the spring. Then sitting around for 4 years showed marked deterioration.

[upchuck]

Is there a preferred undercoat paint for painting the pumpkins etc. as I put the chassis together? :?

[dfritter]

I've never liked straight undercoating (personal preference), so I've been using POR-15 on all the hard bits underneath and I can definitely vouch for it's ability to cling to stuff. You can literally hit stuff with a hammer and it won't chip off. I turned my pumpkin upside down and put it on sawhorses to paint, and had one paint run that wrapped around the bottom where the gasket goes, and I had to use a dremel and sanding barrel to smooth out the little bit of POR-15 that got on the mating surface. $50 can should definitely be enough too, I'm finished my suspension, did two coats on everything, and still have over half a quart left.

[DBrands]

I can also vouch for the effectiveness of POR 15. I POR 15 painted my entire frame and axle casings. Still looks great. Sunlight isn't too friendly to it though, as it peels/tears on the bumper where constant rubbing occurs with branches/rocks and the occasional tree.

[upchuck]

Where can I purchase por-15 rust preventive paint, do I have to purchase online? None of my local auto suppliers carry it. :?

[jefflondon]

Lordco should have it, and yes I have used it too, although for a slightly different purpose. I lined the inside front fenders with it, along with a fibreglass mat. I did this due to the amount of wheel arch flaring I did. and the POR-15 and fibreglass did wonderfully to not only strengthen it but it also reduced the noise off the fenders. (making for a slightly quieter ride???) It also performs the function of behaving like a gasket when bolting the fender to steel parts.


If Lordco is a bust try KMS tools. (Think there is one in kelowna)

[upchuck]

Thanks Jeff the next time I'm in Penticton I'll check. :)

[DBrands]

I have always ordered mine online. It has always arrived as scheduled. No complaints.

[upchuck]

I am getting back at my 88 and need some advice. I am attaching photos this time.

I have been grinding off the rust to prep the diff's how far is enough? I keep going back then starting over....

I have the newly made springs and a rebuild frame and I want to get down to it, I just seem to get caught up on what is the next priority and run out of time.

Crap! how do I insert photo from iphoto on my Mac? :oops: [/img]