The Rover-Landers of BC

Hi Everyone,

I've been driving my Series 2A (no synchros on first and second) around the logging roads near my cabin, and I've noticed that once the truck is warm I'm having a hard time getting it into first gear with the engine idling. It definitely crunch, like the motor is idling too high... I've been fiddling with the carb and have slowed the idle right down, to the point where it won't go any lower without stalling and it's still temperamental. It goes into first and reverse from a dead stop when cold, no issues.

Is there an adjustment on the clutch mechanism that needs to be played with? As mentioned, I don't think I can adjust the idle setting down any further (Victor, it's running slower than when yourself and Colin visited a few months ago).

One other issue I noticed is I don't have the spring on top of the throttle linkage arm at the carb (Weber) which is making the throttle a little sticky as it doesn't return to idle when you lift your foot off the gas without physically putting your foot under the peddle to lift it up. Possibly related to the high idle gear change issue? Or are these boxes just hard to get into first when everything is warmed up?

Does anyone know what length/type of spring is missing and where I can pick one up locally?

Cheers

Dave

If you shift into 4th first to stop the gears, can you then shift into first?


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Sounds like the clutch is dragging a bit. Does the clutch pedal feel normal (hard pressure all the way)? Any loss of clutch fluid? Any change in noise with the clutch pedal depressed (maybe the throwout bearing is going bad)?

Engaging 4th should get the synchros going right? I’ll try that...

The box was taken apart about a year ago and all the bearings were judged to be in good shape.

Clutch pedal feels normal but this is the only series rover ive owned so i may not be the best judge of that!

I do have a slight leak around the bean can lid so its possible im getting air in the hydraulic lines. Brakes are pretty much non existent but i havent adjusted the shoes either...

Hi Dave

Lots of good advice and things to check so far.

Here are a few more.

Check the oil level! These transmissions have a habit of pumping oil from the main transmission into the transfer case.

Since there is no synchro on Reverse 1st or 2nd when you depress the clutch it can take up to 3-4 seconds for the shafts in the transmission to synchronize to the same speed and allow the gears to mesh with out grinding. If after 4 full seconds you can still not select a gear something is definitely wrong. Idle to high? (You say no.)
Clutch possibly dragging? Maybe?
Clutch hydraulics need bleeding to get air out? Maybe but normally the pedal will feel wrong and go to the floor way easier than normal, if this is the problem you would have to pump the pedal the same as the brake pedal when you have air in the system.

As already suggested engaging 4th or 3rd gear will synchronize the shafts and the stick will pop into Reverse 1st or 2nd immediately. Note* you do not have to go all the way into 3rd or 4th, with the clutch depressed just barely touch 3rd gear ( you can hear the sound in the transmission change when you do this) then into reverse 1st or 2nd.

What shape is the actual clutch in? I know you and Matt installed it a long time ago. Was it a new one? Or a really good used one?

Last item, go under the rover and push the slave cylinder push rod which is attached to the arm going into the bell housing up as far as you can with just hand pressure. It should go up a minimum of 1/8 inch to a maximum of 3/4 inch. If you a huge amount of slack here the clutch may not be getting get pushed in enough to do its job. Loosen the lock nut on the rod and adjust accordingly. Note * After you do this the clutch foot pedal will have slack just pump the pedal to get rid of the slack

Yes you may need a few more springs on your throttle linkage. I will send you some pics of my set up via Email (No idea how to put pics on here)
Note* this is how I did my linkage there are other ways to do it.

Good luck Victor

I’m going to go with clutch, if after 3-4 sec with clutch in you still get crunch. Listen for the sound of the trans spinning up or slowing as you engage/disengage the clutch. And of course do all the things Victor says...

Cheers guys - lots of great advice to look into here!

An engine oil leak onto the clutch disk can also cause this dragging problem.

Hey Dave

Is there going to be a prize given to who ever comes up with the correct answer?

Just curious. Victor

What I did when my clutch was dragging and not disengaging fully was to:

• 1. Remove the floor panels to expose the bell housing.
  2. There is a plate on the top side of the bell. Remove it.
  3. Get a can of spray brake cleaner.
  4. Start the engine with the vehicle in neutral.
  5. While pressing the clutch pedal in and out continuously, spray 1/2 the can of cleaner into the clutch.
  6. Try to put the tranny into first gear.
  7. If the clutch is still sticking, repeat 5 & 6.

Worked like a charm for my truck and didn't stick for the next 4 years, till I rebuilt the engine and replaced the clutch.

M.

Thanks Martin. It's a brand new clutch with new (britpart) slave and master cylinders, but I will for sure try the brake cleaner method if all else fails.

Victor - there's a ton of snow on the ground up here so crawling around to figure out the issue hasn't happened yet, but when I get it sorted the winner will get the satisfaction of being right, as well as a pint of their preferred ale in due course!

I did manage to get an assortment of springs from the hardware store so will be giving that a go shortly as it doesn't involve lying on the snow! :p

I would be concerned with the throwout bearing. Did you change it? If you used Britpart and not OEM parts for it all, then the chance of a failure is pretty high.

Looks like it was linkages guys. Matt and mike dropped by today and made a few adjustments - seems fine now. Thanks guys!