The Rover-Landers of BC

Posted: **Sat Mar 11, 2017 9:15 pm**

About a year ago my son and I bought an old Series II with the intention to restore it. We had gone up into the bush offroading and on our way back, my son spotted it under a tarp.

https://i.imgur.com/V2Q01Tul.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6UUEuDXl.jpg

We brought it home and began to tear it down

https://i.imgur.com/OZXOlIMl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/pRipf6ml.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5izIObSl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ywOVhuOl.jpg

Giving the frame a good wash inside and out

https://i.imgur.com/OM1LU6pl.jpg

The engine and brakes were seized and it didn't shift into third or fourth, we tried quite hard to get it started. Dragging it around the farmyard.

https://i.imgur.com/7nIGcMkl.jpg

Surprisingly, the pillars of the bulkhead were in immaculate condition, but the footwells were rotten. There was also the fact that somebody had chopped a massive hole in the firewall for a Chevy Master cylinder.

https://i.imgur.com/quuIancl.jpg

What was once thought to be a solid frame turned out to be quite rotten. The rear cross member had already been replaced with the C-Channel Special. After giving it a good sandblasting we discovered that a lot of the frame rail was rotten.

https://i.imgur.com/eBUuq2ml.jpg

Dreaming of a running Rover we had a look around for other vehicles. Like this 88.

https://i.imgur.com/VNP2mx9l.jpg

We decided we'd rather have a 109 for working on the farm, so we made the trip up to Lillooet for Michael Kennedy's 109 project he'd had for 20 years, but had just bought a 110. This new truck came with brand new parabolics, a tub without any dents, a repaired bulkhead, painted doors, and a bunch of other bits and bolts.

https://i.imgur.com/g2M4uhhl.jpg

That's pretty much where the project is now. We have done some repairs to the frame and they are 60% complete before we have a solid foundation.

https://i.imgur.com/naznleZl.jpg

We've begun rebuilding the front axle as well, the diff seemed almost brand new. All that was needed was to renew the front pinion seal.
https://i.imgur.com/teGJsUMl.jpg
All the other bits of the axle are repainted, so we will get that put back together in the next few days, then start on the rear one!

Posted: **Sun Mar 12, 2017 1:38 pm**

Are the photos visible?

Posted: **Sun Mar 12, 2017 3:06 pm**

obalme wrote:Are the photos visible?

I can't see them.

Posted: **Sun Mar 12, 2017 5:12 pm**

Same problem here.

Sent from my XP7700 using Tapatalk

Posted: **Sun Mar 12, 2017 7:06 pm**

How about now?

Posted: **Sun Mar 12, 2017 7:30 pm**

Much better!

Sent from my XP7700 using Tapatalk

Posted: **Mon Mar 13, 2017 8:04 pm**

Wasn't my 88 in the pictures, I wish I had time to tear her down and put her back together properly lol but she's still in one piece needing footwells and suspension mounts...AND I've found ou the rear cross member was previously welded into the wrong place and that's why my tub wont fit lol. So I'm rebuilding the engine in my other rover haha.

Posted: **Wed Mar 15, 2017 9:58 am**

Great looking project! Is the new frame a station wagon frame? I think I can see the 2 raised pillars which hold the rear tub of a station wagon. If so, you'll need to remove them to fit your 109 full tub.

Matt

Posted: **Wed Mar 15, 2017 12:20 pm**

Thanks Matt, will double check to make sure the frames match.

Josh, I will amend my post

Posted: **Wed Mar 15, 2017 12:41 pm**

Had another look at the pictures, I think I'm mistaken the frames look the same.

Matt

Posted: **Wed Mar 15, 2017 1:15 pm**

Instead of working on the axles, we did some more welding on the frame. The front suspension bushings had a hairline crack around them so we fish plated around them to fix that.

After spending quite a long time trying to pull the relay out the top, we realized it would've never come out.

Somebody had decided to weld it in...

So we had to remove the front cross-member

We welded on a bar to keep the frame rails in place.

https://i.imgur.com/u5eXD5nl.jpg

Then took the torch to it.

https://i.imgur.com/qKceRcJl.jpg

New One ready to be welded in place

https://i.imgur.com/AEZyedrl.jpg

If you look closely, you can see a small weld.

https://i.imgur.com/FFU2svAl.jpg

It's funny, because the relay on the other frame came out really easy.

Posted: **Wed Mar 15, 2017 10:43 pm**

obalme wrote:Thanks Matt, will double check to make sure the frames match.

Josh, I will amend my post

No worries mate, just don't want to take credit for something I didn't do haha

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted: **Thu Mar 23, 2017 7:45 pm**

Got some work done on the axle's swivels yesterday.
https://i.imgur.com/yRheiTLl.jpg

Today, we pretty much finished all of the repairs on the frame.

https://i.imgur.com/4IAC3Sxl.jpg

Test fitting a bulkhead
https://i.imgur.com/xRr1Pkkl.jpg

We also patched a few holes in the rear crossmember. But I forgot to take photos.

I now have to deal with the final frame repair. The shock absorber mounts are extremely worn out. Someone must've forgot to change the bushings on their shocks.

https://i.imgur.com/guTWvKVl.jpg

It is like this on both sides, is there a replacement part available or do I need to fabricate my own? We have the old ones.

Posted: **Fri Mar 24, 2017 8:43 pm**

You could just cut off the stubs and drill and tap for a grade 8 bolt.
Eric.

Posted: **Sat Mar 25, 2017 9:26 am**

That sounds like a good idea, I'd rather not fiddle around trying to make my own.

Isn't that the way they're mounted to the Defenders?

Posted: **Tue Mar 28, 2017 10:29 pm**

Got some more work done over the weekend.
Put in new outer wheel bearings and stub axle races
https://i.imgur.com/8vNQfgMl.jpg

Rebuilt the front halfshafts with new UJs, distance pieces, bearing races and seal races. It all went back together quite easily with a 30 ton shop press.
https://i.imgur.com/uS8CoWOl.jpg

Since now I'm waiting for more brake parts progress on the front axle has been halted, so I began taking apart the rear one.

Found an old piece of oily paper inside the hubcap, maybe to prevent oil getting out?
https://i.imgur.com/s28Suj2l.jpg

Also some writing on a halfshaft I can't decipher
https://i.imgur.com/vHTAuKxl.jpg?1
All the rear halfshafts
https://i.imgur.com/Wb9dom6l.jpg

I pulled the left side halfshaft out and it looked as if someone had chopped a little bit off the end, so I pulled the one from the donor axle, and it looked brand new! The lower one looks like someone took the grinder to it to make it fit.
https://i.imgur.com/z3Vmzgll.jpg

Posted: **Fri Mar 31, 2017 9:02 pm**

Looking like good forward progress .....

I once had a bunch of old Series Parts from Australia marked in boxes from Dufor Automotive. They were a company that made Series parts way back in the good old days.
I wonder if the first word written on you diff shaft is "DUFOR"?

-Keep up the good work...
Andy

Posted: **Sun Apr 02, 2017 10:00 pm**

That seems to be correct. It looks like "DUFOR" then a part number.

Posted: **Fri Jun 16, 2017 2:51 pm**

Not much forward progress over the past few months, got the rear axle taken apart, just need the time to put it back together. Picked up a Chassis from Bern, it's in really good condition, but was modified to fit a Station Wagon, so I'll have to chop off some of the brackets and weld new ones in, The rear crossmember is a little bent and battered in some places so I'll replace that with the one I have now. After a quick inspection this frame seems really solid! It's been undercoated, if I break some of it off it reveals some nice gloss black paint, which may be original. The outriggers for the gas tanks are slightly bent so they need beaten back into their correct positions.

I'm wondering whether it would be worth Galvanizing?

Posted: **Fri Oct 06, 2017 11:01 pm**

Not much progress over the summer. Mostly fixed boats and messed about at work. Never had the time but I'll hopefully find some more. I did get the rear axle refurbished with new seals and brakes. The drums were too far out of spec so they were replaced with new ones. The front axle needs brakes and the hubs reassembled. Then I'll have good axles but no solid chassis to put them under...

The issue I'm facing now is removing the old undercoating. My strategy right now is to use a Tiger torch and heat it up so it just sort of melts off. The frame just seems to be coated in tar. Is it even worth removing? Becuase underneath it is fresh paint so can I get away with just repainting the parts without the undercoating or should I spend a week taking it off? If it doesn't come off now it never will is my thought on it.
https://i.imgur.com/tBqN3Hzl.jpg

I did discover a small crack in the frame underneath the body outrigger but it isn't from rust, most likely military abuse. The fuel tank outrigger will need replacing because it is bent very badly. The rear cross member has a dent in it which will need sorting. I have a new cross member but this one is held on so well I am afraid it will never be as strong as the original.
https://i.imgur.com/atNaNnXl.jpg

On the subject of previous posts and their unviewable photos. When I find the time I'll switch all the photos over to a different hosting site that isn't Photobucket. I reckon they're doing this because people only use them for this photo linking feature nowadays. If you are using Google Chrome there is an extension you can download that bypasses this feature and makes all the old photos visible again. I'm quite annoyed by their decision.

Posted: **Sun Oct 08, 2017 12:07 pm**

Hi Colin,

Good to see that progress is continuing...
It looks like it has had a good coating of thick underseal. Depending on how far you want to go, its probably best to remove it all as some sections may be hiding something you cant see. (rust / cracks / bad welds etc) On saying that, a lot depends on what you plan to do with it once complete. Another approach would be to give it a good high pressure power washing and then recoat the bare sections with a similar type of under coating.
I have a spare Series 2/3 chassis outrigger that the previous owner must of purchased before realising that Series 1's are different. Your welcome to it if its the correct one that you need. It is a right hand (passenger side) out rigger. I can email you a photo if your interested so you can compare.

Cheers,
Andy

Posted: **Mon Oct 09, 2017 11:35 pm**

Thanks for the input Andy, I think I'll pressure wash it and see how it turns out. I may be interested in the outrigger, does it have a plate around it or is it just the outrigger?

Posted: **Wed Oct 11, 2017 11:52 am**

It does have plates on each side to assist with welding to the chassis...kind of like this one;

Posted: **Thu Oct 12, 2017 9:58 pm**

ANDYD wrote:It does have plates on each side to assist with welding to the chassis...kind of like this one;

Hi Andy, I don't think that's the one I need but thank you for the offer. My bulkhead outriggers are very solid on this frame.

Posted: **Thu Oct 12, 2017 10:13 pm**

Got the front brakes assembled with the help of Victor, I told him there was lucky so he even got there early!

We had a bit of trouble in the beginning because the shoe never wanted to stay in place. One of us had to try and hold the shoe while the other used the fancy tool that looks like a modified screwdriver. I thought there must've been a better way so I went and grabbed the clamps we use for welding and clamped the shoe to the backing plate. I think this method should be adopted by the Haynes Manual, because I don't think they tell you how to do it at all!

https://i.imgur.com/aBDVEU4l.jpg?1

In the next few days I'll get the hubs on and make 2 good freewheeling hubs out of the 4 alright ones I have lying around. After that the next step is to get a chassis to put over these axles.

Posted: **Wed Oct 18, 2017 11:06 pm**

On Sunday I headed up to Comox to help Rob free up some space in his garage by taking bulkhead off his hands. (It was also an excuse to see his truck again, which is coming along nicely.) This should save me a lot of time at the rate I'm getting things done. It only needs a few small repairs that could be left alone but I'm going to fix them for the purist in me.

https://i.imgur.com/e5F37Col.jpg

On the way back Victor and I made a detour to Horne Lake to see Dave's Series 2, which gave me even more inspiration to finish mine, maybe I'll have it on the road for the Rally in the Valley this year?

https://i.imgur.com/3MQZ4FDl.jpg

Got the Hubs on the front Axle but had to remove one of the Freewheeling hubs to pack it with grease since I forgot to.

https://i.imgur.com/Ti4mR2Tl.jpg

I really should've followed in Andy's footsteps by assembling the axle lower to the ground, because I put it up there when it was light and then added a lot of weight to it. Luckily we own a backhoe (which may be slightly overkill) so we used that to pick the axle up and put it on the ground in front of the frame.

https://i.imgur.com/AuJdiFYl.jpg

I need to put the springs on the axles and get the frame powerwashed in the next few days

https://i.imgur.com/j3rXPdTl.jpg

Posted: **Thu Oct 19, 2017 7:36 pm**

Good progress Colin .... and you have your wheels & tyres on before me ..... I better get a move on :bounce:

Posted: **Fri Oct 20, 2017 1:53 pm**

Hi Andy, I think we are about equal in progress. Unlike you I don't have a frame to put those axles under. I'm hoping to paint it before it gets too cold.

Posted: **Sun Oct 29, 2017 7:57 pm**

Lots of progress on the frame today. I'm trying to get it done before it gets too cold to paint. Last weekend I gave the frame, engine and gearbox a good cleaning. Lots of that undercoating came off with a good pressure washing on max.

New body mounts for the 3 Door body

https://i.imgur.com/CkqCm6Vl.jpg

Added supports which are similar to the original. They don't need to be pretty since I will never see them again.

https://i.imgur.com/xR7UhoRl.jpg

Made up a new plate to go where the old one was on the rear crossmember

https://i.imgur.com/1zbHCt6l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/abhh71Ol.jpg

I also discovered that the front right frame rail is slightly bent, it shouldn't be too much of an issue though I hope :bounce:

Posted: **Tue Nov 07, 2017 10:54 pm**

Started switching over the old images from Photobucket to Imgur, if anyone is interested. I will finish that in the next few days.

Posted: **Tue Nov 07, 2017 11:06 pm**

Finally got the Chassis repairs complete. I just need to weld in the front tub mounts because I'm not too sure where they go.

https://i.imgur.com/7TKfAx4l.jpg

Painted the Rear Axle in the cold weather. I've got a feeling I'll be painting it again in the new year when it's warmer.
I also forgot to grease the Diff Pinion seal so I took that part today and gave them a generous greasing. I was told that if they went in dry they'd start leaking after a couple hundred miles.

https://i.imgur.com/0UJS8Gdl.jpg

Removed all the old bushings. This turned out to be a terrible job which took much longer than anticipated. At first we used a Sawzall and a chisel, but the bushings were rusted in there very bad. Eventually, we ended up getting the torch out to heat them up, this worked quite nicely.

Pipe ready for the new Polybushes

https://i.imgur.com/2n0Kg1Sl.jpg

New vs. Old

https://i.imgur.com/MNHmEBAl.jpg

I don't think I will ever bother with standard bushings in the chassis again as they are much more of a hassle to get in and out than PolyBushes, even if they last half as long. They only take a few minutes to install and take out.

Posted: **Wed Nov 08, 2017 9:04 am**

Good progress Colin. I feel your pain with the chassis bushing removal. When I did mine I rigged up a length of threaded ready-rod and a couple of nuts and correct sized spacers was able to pull them out using an extended breaker bar... had to cut through the metal part first with a hacksaw before they would even think about moving. It wasn't any fun and took the best part of a weekend... bloody knuckles and lots of swear words :oops:

Posted: **Thu Nov 09, 2017 10:30 pm**

I was looking at your post to see how you did it. That was my backup plan if the torch didn't work. I ended up burning the centre bushing out and walking away so I didn't have to breathe too much in. It took the two of us a few hours. Swearing usually helps get them out I find.

Posted: **Fri Nov 10, 2017 10:53 pm**

For ease of future replacement i went with polybushes too. I had an easier time getting the old ones out though - took about 30 mins each by torching out the rubber and centre sleeve, followed by hacksawing through the outer sleeve and drifting it out...

Posted: **Fri Nov 10, 2017 10:54 pm**

For ease of future replacement i went with polybushes too. I had an easier time getting the old ones out though - took about 30 mins each by torching out the rubber and centre sleeve, followed by hacksawing through the outer sleeve and drifting it out...

Posted: **Mon Nov 13, 2017 7:21 pm**

That was my original method as well but the outer sleeves were rusted badly into the outer. It was also the method I used on the 110 and it worked very well.

Posted: **Sun Nov 19, 2017 11:07 pm**

Finally got around to painting the frame. It has only taken me a year and a half. Like Andy I used the POR-15 Three-Step Process.

Degreasing the Chassis

https://i.imgur.com/mzxqudLl.jpg

Then waited a week for some time. I tried to heat the frame up by storing it in the Milk Tank Room.

https://i.imgur.com/Ts6lHxQl.jpg

After that, I used the overpriced Phosphoric Acid to prep the frame then liberally rinsed it off with hot water.

Here it is, before being painted. The POR-15 metal prep didn't do much but I suppose it did something.

https://i.imgur.com/EmrpC3Ll.jpg

After the first Coat

https://i.imgur.com/ZtgJLQAl.jpg

Unfortunately. I bought the smallest tin they had because they told me it was enough. So I had to drive back to the store to buy a quart and that still wasn't enough. This means it has about one and a half coats on. Once I get the axles and some other bits on I'll give it a liberal waxing to prevent any more rust.

Posted: **Mon Nov 20, 2017 10:52 pm**

Nice.... that's the worse bit done 8) , now you have a good foundation under your new beast!

Have you thought about internal chassis rust protection? I have just picked up a few tins of Eastwood Internal Chassis Coating, which comes in a aerosol can with a tube that you slide into holes in the chassis and the 360 deg nozzle sprays the inside as you pull it along the box sections as you spray.
It has some good reviews (made in the USA) and currently on sale at KMS tools $26, so I thought why not give it a try.
I will let you know how it goes...............
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-intern ... rosol.html

Cheers,
Andy

Posted: **Tue Nov 21, 2017 7:35 pm**

Looking good Colin - I wish I'd gone with POR for peace of mind also but I was lucky in that my frame had most of its original factory paint (probably why the bushes came out so easily lol). The waxoyl is a good call, as the POR-15 is sensitive to sunlight and can degrade over time if exposed...

Posted: **Tue Nov 21, 2017 10:57 pm**

Thanks for the input Andy and Dave.

I have thought about coating the chassis from the inside and planned on using something like that. Let me know how that turns out and I might give it a try as well.

My frame had a lot of the factory paint still on and the POR-15 metal prep etched it so it could be painted over.

I'm quite happy with the way the POR-15 turned out. I'm worried because in a few spots there are some air bubbles so I plan on redoing those when it's warmer. It may have been too moist or perhaps I put too much paint in those areas.

It was a good idea to remove those bushings before painting because that stuff would've welded them in!

Posted: **Tue Nov 21, 2017 11:58 pm**

Have started to add bits, I'm getting excited!

Last night the first bits I added were the bump stops and Polybushes.
https://i.imgur.com/S4XyWgol.jpg

I also filled the axles with oil and am happy to say they don't leak :)
https://i.imgur.com/2ZPS8oBl.jpg

Tonight I got the Axles and the Steering relay installed.
https://i.imgur.com/16QSDd6l.jpg

I am scared of large springs popping out at me so I decided not to take it apart. I put some oil in it the night before to loosen things up then tonight I swapped out the filler plug for a grease nipple and pumped it full of one shot grease. After smacking it around with a hammer for a while it was quite loose and could be moved freely by hand. When putting it back in I gave it a generous coating of anti-seize. I'm hoping the nipple will be easily accessible by only removing the grille.
https://i.imgur.com/0Izo4ull.jpg

Posted: **Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:32 am**

FYI, if you put the POR-15 on top of other paint without using their primer, it will peel off in a year or two. It is very hard to get the stuff to stick to anything long term.

Posted: **Thu Nov 23, 2017 8:41 pm**

Well I guess I will have to repaint it in a year or two then. The store didn't sell any sort of primer and on the tin it said to sand old paint to scuff it. That Metal Prep chemical made the old paint very rough so maybe that was to help bond it. Next time I go to paint something with the POR-15 I'll see if they have a primer.

Posted: **Sat Nov 25, 2017 8:55 pm**

Got Quite a bit done last night. Put all the shocks on and put the Check Straps on.

One front shock cooperated with me but on the other side the bushings wouldn't move over far enough to fit the split pin. I got some woodworking clamps and pulled the washer towards the diff. That gave me enough space to fit it in nicely.

https://i.imgur.com/rIgOp27l.jpg

I had quite a similar problem on the rear because we welded a washer on because the hole was worn out. This didn't give me enough thread to fit the nut on. We had to "modify" the bushing so it was smaller and would fit nicely.

https://i.imgur.com/MsXGwEol.jpg

I used my Mum's leather hole punch to make bolt holes for the check straps. I may need to take them off and put larger washers on at some point so they last longer.

I'm a little concerned because I ended up with a few spare bits and bolts I can donate to the farm. I don't know what the Nyloc Nuts are for but the extra bushings, washers and split pins are leftovers from a SWB shock kit.

https://i.imgur.com/WCTfc0rl.jpg?1

So far it's coming together nicely. Not working on old rusty bits is nice for a change.

https://i.imgur.com/ZIEEOLOl.jpg

Posted: **Sat Nov 25, 2017 10:26 pm**

All pictures are now visible if anyone's interested.

Posted: **Mon Nov 27, 2017 11:06 pm**

On Saturday Night I got bored because there was nothing left to do on the chassis. I'll get the brake lines mounted on the axles at a later date. In the meantime, I'll take apart the engine and gearbox.

First I drained all the Oil. A bit of water came out so I'm hoping that was from when I gave it a wash. Pulled the Alternator and Water Pump out but broke a bolt. It was a pain to drill out because it was crumbling away since it was so rotten. We might've bodged it a bit so I may have to steal the timing cover off the other engine, haven't decided yet.

The Culprit
https://i.imgur.com/o4cMYxnl.jpg

What is this thing with the Teeth?
https://i.imgur.com/onZQFqcl.jpg

Also Started Tinkering with the Gearbox but forgot to take photos. I was told this Transmission came from Stuarts 109. I was also told it popped out of third gear on the odd occasion so I will be making an effort to fix that issue. Other than the third gear problem I was told it was a reliable box so I'll take it apart a little bit and check for chips in teeth and anything unusual.

Do any of you have tips for removing the Handbrake drum? I think I undid all the bolts. It does not want to budge. I'll probably end up pulling the whole flange off.

Posted: **Tue Nov 28, 2017 5:06 pm**

I had to hit my handbrake drum a lot with an appropriately sized persuader.

Posted: **Tue Nov 28, 2017 9:05 pm**

Hi Colin,
Hope it was not our recent conflab that resulted in the bolt mishap.
I think the thing with teeth is for your timing. When you get the head off, check how TDC of #1 is aligned with the pointers on the bracket. After which you can measure your degrees before TDC for your static ignition timing.
Eric.

Posted: **Wed Nov 29, 2017 8:54 pm**

I think I will have to get a larger persuader then. I was only using the small one.

Eric, it was not your fault the bolt was made of sand. Your stud extractor did come in handy for removing studs.

Maybe those teeth are for the timing light? I'm not sure if I will take the head off so we may never know.

Posted: **Thu Nov 30, 2017 10:02 am**

Re timing marks:

You don't need to pull the head, just the rocker cover and all the sparkplug.

Get or borrow a TDC (top dead center) tool, about $12 from amazon (or way more from Lordco), that screws into a spark plug hole.
Screw it into to the #1 sparkplug hole.
Slowly rotate the engine clockwise till it stops (piston hits the probe). Mark the crank balancer/pulley, aligned to a know point on the timing cover. Turn it CCW until it just stops, mark balancer/pulley to the same point on the cover. Halfway between the two marks in a CW direction, is TDC.
Attach a degree wheel to the balancer/pulley with 0 aligned to TDC.
You will now be able to see where the indicator aligns to the correct advance marks and if needs to be adjusted adjusted.

I did the above on my '52 S1-80", and filed a slight groove into the pulley at 8 degrees BTDC (what my engine s/b set to at full retard). Then I attached an indicator wire (made from a thin stainless rod) to one of the bolts holding on the timing cover and aligned it to the groove. Now I don't have to try to fight with the little flywheel access panel on the bell housing, that is a real pain to get to, to time my engine.

Regards,

M.

Posted: **Fri Dec 01, 2017 11:13 pm**

Martin,

After looking at both my Engines you are correct. My early Series 2.25 has the cover but the later one does not.

I do not know anything about timing an engine but I guess I will be learning how soon enough.

Posted: **Fri Dec 01, 2017 11:19 pm**

Victory was mine over the Handbrake Drum. All I needed was a really big screwdriver and a bigger persuader as suggested.
https://i.imgur.com/EpFqkgMl.jpg

Found one less thing that needs fixing as well. We used a Battery Charger to test the Starter Motor and it spun nice and quiet. I don't know if it needs to do anything other than that. The gear on the end engaged freely and didn't stick so I couldn't find any problems with it.
https://i.imgur.com/anVHD1Ql.jpg

Posted: **Tue Dec 19, 2017 6:54 pm**

Began tearing the gearbox and engine down the other day. Slow progress because my father and I have been very sick.

Drained the oil, a fair bit of sludge at the bottom but clear oil on the top. It also had an awfully bad smell to it. A lot more came out of the Transfer Case than the Gearbox because the Gearbox was leaking out the front. I took an empty Heinz Ketchup tin and filled that up with diesel, then dumped half into each section. With the help of my dad we sloshed it around and left it for 20 minutes to drain. Drained that and some dirty diesel came out so that will make disassembly cleaner.

https://i.imgur.com/5DGdnDml.jpg

We pulled the timing cover off the motor to check things out. I noticed the front crank pulley had a noticeable groove in it, is that alright?
https://i.imgur.com/iwr5MxMl.jpg

I don't plan on replacing the timing chain because it looks in good shape. Haven't decided yet if I will paint the engine yet. I'm not a big fan of the colour scheme but it's also too cold to paint. I think I will paint some smaller bits then do the whole engine at a later date. Not sure on the colour either, I'm thinking of the same colour as the head, not sure if that's the proper colour but I like it.

Posted: **Tue Dec 19, 2017 9:08 pm**

Hi Colin,

I'm watching your Engine / gearbox strip down & clean up trying to get the inspiration to start mine!

Sorry to hear that you have both been sick... it must of been too may late nights out in the cold barn with old grease up to your elbows!

Its Looking Good, keep it rolling along! :happy6: I expect you plan to show it off at the Van Island Rally in June!

Posted: **Wed Dec 20, 2017 8:06 am**

That groove in the pulley will result in an oil leak. A Speedi sleeve will remedy that.

Posted: **Wed Dec 20, 2017 10:45 pm**

Hi Andy and John,

It is quite a challenge to work after the sun sets. Right now I wear my biggest coat and try to power through, I might power a heater or migrate some smaller bits inside the house.

I will look into that speedi sleeve.

I was shooting for founders day since that was postponed but the Rally in the Valley is more likely. I'd like to drive it to school at least once. I plan on painting it at a later date since I have two of every body panel. This means I can still drive it while I'm painting the good body panel. I'll cross that bridge when I get there...

I recommend giving the Engine and Gearbox a good wash to remove all the grease. I skipped that on the gearbox and am now regretting it. Lots of hot water and that POR 15 Degreaser should do the trick.

Posted: **Wed Dec 20, 2017 11:00 pm**

Today I migrated the gearbox over to the Table. Much better working higher up than on the cold cement.

https://i.imgur.com/DDLrFp8l.jpg

Pulled the Speedo Unit out, Hopefully the shims don't need adjustment

https://i.imgur.com/rva7lWNl.jpg

Began taking the four-wheel drive apart but the output flange was rusted on so I had to get a special persuader in to do the job

https://i.imgur.com/eAMXbgul.jpg

Since the T-Case and Gearbox weren't separated the Four Wheel Drive Unit wouldn't come out because it fouled on the Bellhousing. So I began taking that off. In retrospect, I should've left the bellhousing on because it is requiring more disassembly than I hoped for. But I am committed now because I tore the gasket. I quit for the night because this weird looking nut won't come off without an assistant.

https://i.imgur.com/bZx4d6Il.jpg

I Checked the transfer case gears for broken teeth and they all look to be in very good shape. I hope the gearbox is similar.

Posted: **Thu Dec 21, 2017 10:57 pm**

Well it seems to me that I'm going to be taking the whole thing apart.

Tonight I got the Transmission separated from the Gearbox.

https://i.imgur.com/30NEyw2l.jpg

Then I tried taking the bellhousing off again. It turns out you do not need to remove the nut to remove the bellhousing. I heard a loud crunch while doing up the big bolts on the bellhousing and those can never be good. It turns out I crushed a bearing while trying to take that nut off so I will need to find a replacement. I believe it's off the Layshaft but I'm not sure.

https://i.imgur.com/C3cDfPll.jpg

Since the box is apart I think I will just replace every bearing and get it over with. So far all the gears look good but will need further investigation. Hopefully I will have this back together soon, but I may be giving the engine some attention while I wait for more bits.

Posted: **Sat Dec 23, 2017 9:12 pm**

Looking good Mate. I had exactly the same groove on mine too and the leak was pretty bad... the slip sleeve thing cured the problem though :D

Posted: **Fri Dec 29, 2017 8:34 pm**

Hi Dave, I did a quick look at Sleeves on Amazon and it seems like they cost more than a new Crank Pulley (Bearmach), So I may just get a new Pulley.

Posted: **Fri Dec 29, 2017 8:49 pm**

Victor came over today to inspect my gearbox, the only questionable gear was 1st on the Layshaft, it is knawed off on one side. The rest of the Gears are in good shape so they'll get reused. I will replace most of the bearings in the Gearbox except for the one in the clutch release mechanism. All of the bearings in the Transfer Case are in good shape so I won't touch those.

The Mainshaft took a bit of pounding to get out, but after a few good hits it popped out cleanly.
https://i.imgur.com/TyEANAel.jpg

The Rear Mainshaft Bearing race had to be removed so we thought about how that was going to happen. We then saw that somebody had already changed it because there were two small holes drilled through the box to the race. We gave it a light tap and the race fell out.

After more inspection of parts we decided the rear output flange wasn't reusable, It had a very deep groove.

https://i.imgur.com/68NjitSl.jpg

I didn't really want to buy a new one because I was told they're expensive so I pulled one off the other box, it was very rusty but cleaned up well with sandpaper. I can't feel a grove in this one so I think I'll use it.

https://i.imgur.com/NTlb2EKl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/LDA5KLFl.jpg

Posted: **Fri Dec 29, 2017 9:28 pm**

Your making great progress Colin! If you want to speedy sleeve the output shaft the part number you need is: CR99162

Matt

Posted: **Tue Jan 02, 2018 11:06 am**

Hi Matt, thanks for the encouragement. I don't think I need the sleeve. I cleaned the shaft off with emery cloth and it looks in very good shape.

On New Year's Eve and yesterday I did some painting on the engine and gearbox parts. All were painted either flat or semi-gloss black. The main engine will be Kubota Blue because that's what Island Tractor has and I quite like it.

It took a lot to remove all the old gaskets because it seems to me like they were glued on very well. I ended up using a wire wheel on my angle grinder to take it off the sump.

Before and After

https://i.imgur.com/6vQhbu5l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/QGcbvKFl.jpg

Posted: **Wed Jan 03, 2018 11:34 pm**

Victor came over this morning to give me hand putting together what we could. We managed to get the Front output back on and that was it while I'm waiting for parts. It was a bit of a struggle to align it all but everything clicked together as it should. We put all the levers and linkages on before sliding the casing over it all. Then we shifted it everything to make sure it all engages properly.
https://i.imgur.com/V6HJlLml.jpg https://i.imgur.com/RsPAXsKl.jpg

Posted: **Fri Jan 05, 2018 10:47 pm**

Painted the timing cover tonight in Kubota Engine Blue, very pleased with how it turned out so I'm happy with my colour choice. The camera make it seem lighter than it really is.

https://i.imgur.com/P5RvhZnl.jpg

Posted: **Sun Jan 07, 2018 10:49 pm**

Today I did a little bit of work on the gearbox and flywheel. I cleaned the casing and the outside of the bellhousing so it's nicer to put together. Then I changed the Seal for the Speedo housing.

I used a small screwdriver wrapped in a cloth which I tapped into the seal and then pried it out.

https://i.imgur.com/2vdYgkAl.jpg

Back Together

https://i.imgur.com/u0gTlwul.jpg

On the flywheel I cleaned it up and was told by my Grandfather that it needed resurfacing. I punched the old bushing out while I had easy access as well

https://i.imgur.com/owmBjw5l.jpg

I also found the date of either assembly or casting stamped into the main gearbox casing.
https://i.imgur.com/IRzeRUml.jpg

Posted: **Mon Jan 08, 2018 9:10 am**

Hi Colin,

I really admire you're tenacity to move this project along, hopefully it will be an inspiration to all those who have stalled on their restorations. The updates and photos provide the site with great fresh content also. Keep up the great work.

PS I know you are trying to keep within a tight budget but if you can manage to find the money for a new clutch release bearing you won't be sorry.

Bill

Posted: **Mon Jan 08, 2018 7:20 pm**

Hi Bill, I try and update my progress a couple times a week at the least. It may give you all something to read when not much else is going on. I'm getting bored of having it sit around and thinking of using it is what keep me going!

I have an early Series 2 Gearbox and it is a different type of clutch release bearing. I was told that it's rare for them to fail. It is the type that is part of a housing that's bolted to the front of the bellhousing. To change the bearing you need a press and since it looks very clean and spins smoothly I'll reuse it. I will change the cross-shaft seal in the housing to prevent any leaks. The one you may be thinking of is the later style gearbox that has a clutch fork and a release bearing that runs along the gearbox shaft.

Posted: **Mon Jan 15, 2018 12:15 am**

Didn't get much done this week. Rummaged through my parts bins up in the loft and found some useful bits nicely painted.

The light switch and lock with a working key. Before I was using a Black and Decker key on the original.
https://i.imgur.com/873Y3bfm.jpg

A galvanized steering bracket
https://i.imgur.com/695wb17m.jpg

The most interesting was an aftermarket plastic beehive lamp. Unfortunately, I knocked the bag into the lamp and it rolled onto the floor then into the abyss. I don't think I'll ever see it again which is too bad.
https://i.imgur.com/WgbNMqwm.jpg

Posted: **Sun Jan 21, 2018 11:28 pm**

Lots of bearings and bits came this week and I had the opportunity to get some work done today since Mt. Washington was closed.

Pulled first Gear and the bearing housing off the layshaft using our shop press. I had my assistant catch the layshaft when everything popped off. Here is pressing on first gear. Then the new RHP bearing was pressed on flush with the end. I did not use the hot/trick for either of these and the installations went very smooth. I left the wax on the gear because it is very easy to peel off later.

https://i.imgur.com/pnl0MOql.jpg https://i.imgur.com/EeLKLFEl.jpg

We pushed the Primary pinion out of the bellhousing then put it in the vice with a used clutch disc to work on the funny nut. The bearing came off after a few good hits with a punch.

https://i.imgur.com/dFvO54Ml.jpg

Layed the engine on its side to gain access to changing the main seal which will an interesting task.

https://i.imgur.com/8pDmHuul.jpg

I also got the steering bars apart with a big wrench hooked on the end and a little bit of butane flame persuader. It turns out I've ordered the wrong style of Track Rod End. I've heard various opinions on mixing and matching and am not sure what to do.

https://i.imgur.com/NaJsakzl.jpg

Posted: **Tue Jan 23, 2018 9:11 pm**

Took delivery of a shiny and clean flywheel yesterday. I'm glad I didn't use it in the state that it was in before!

https://i.imgur.com/8n1nr3yl.jpg

I'm planning on attacking the rear main seal for the 2.25 3MB this Thursday evening. Does anyone have any tips or tricks?

Posted: **Tue Jan 23, 2018 10:07 pm**

Hey Colin, great progress in this cold depressing weather!
With all the practice you are getting on Engine rebuilding, I will be dropping mine off to you in a couple of weeks :wink:

Regarding the steering components, from what I have read its fine to upgrade to the newer style as long as new style tie-rod ends go with new style steering bars. If you are keeping the old steering bars best to use the older style tie rod ends. ( so basically don't mix and match. It all about where the clamp tightens down and how many threads you can get into the steering bar ends.

There has been some cases of steering rod ends stripping out the bar and then steering loss at speed doesn't end well .... :rolly:

Posted: **Wed Jan 24, 2018 9:46 pm**

Hi Andy

I wouldn't say I'm doing an Engine Rebuild, more of a "refurbishment". It seems as though the previous owner changed all the bearing caps because they look barely worn in.

Does your engine need to be rebuilt?

I've ordered the correct tie rod ends but Jeremy only has 3 out of the 4 I need to complete my steering system.

Posted: **Fri Feb 02, 2018 6:46 pm**

I’m close to doing the rear main seal. One of the interesting things seems to be the various tricks to get the T-shaped cork seals past the sharp edge of the block. LR had a special tool, a pair of sort of wedge things. Others use metal shim stock. I’m going the shim route, and I will post pics and advice when I do it.

Posted: **Sat Feb 03, 2018 11:32 am**

I might have some TREs still in the box if you need them Colin

Posted: **Sun Feb 04, 2018 7:23 pm**

This morning I got the steering rod back on the truck. The tie rod ends went in nicely with lots of anti-seize but the drop arm off of the steering relay caused some headaches. There are two types and thankfully I had one of each.

The one on the left drops down two inches lower but has a taper on top, whereas the one installed currently has the taper on the bottom and doesn't drop down as far.

https://i.imgur.com/lCFwiT2l.jpg

I had the one on the left installed before but it left very little clearance between the chassis and tie rod end so I found the one off of the original truck and installed that instead. It looks much better and the steering rod isn't at a very steep angle like before.

https://i.imgur.com/U8LeYHkl.jpg

I'm just waiting for an extra tie rod end from Jeremy to do the other steering rod.

This afternoon with help from my Grandfather and Father we did the rear main seal.

I was afraid it was going to a terrible job but it wasn't too bad. I'd recommend an assistant though. We tried to do it without removing the main bearing cap but that was impossible because the seal retainer on the cap is held on with longer dowels so you have to remove them as one piece.

https://i.imgur.com/HGMgeMOl.jpg

We saved the old spring then pulled the old seal out then put the new one in place making sure not to overstretch anything. Haynes says to put the spring on first but it doesn't really matter which order you do it in.

https://i.imgur.com/Ry4JjQrl.jpg

The hardest part of this job was putting the main cap back on. It is crucial you don't tear the cork seals. We tore ours just slightly so it may still leak. To get them in without tearing you need to have some special wedge thing but we didn't have that. Feeler gauges work just as good but make sure you can still pull them out afterwards. (We had to take the cap off again because we lost a feeler gauge in between the block and cap.) When the cap was torqued up I used a sharp knife to trim the end of the cork seals so they don't interfere with the oil pan.

https://i.imgur.com/BGxR0AIl.jpg

Overall it really wasn't that bad. We used a lot of silicone grease on everything and took our time. Next job is the crank thrust washers.

Posted: **Sun Feb 11, 2018 7:10 pm**

Busy day today. This morning I switched out the locks on the 110 so the keys for the front doors are matched.

After lunch, Victor and Greg came over to give me a hand with the transfer case. We shimmed the rear bearing of the transfer case and put in a new output seal.

https://i.imgur.com/n196z7Wl.jpg

It took a fishing scale and pulling the speedo drive housing off many times to get it right.

Later in the afternoon my Grandfather came over to give Victor and I a hand with changing the crank thrust washers.

https://i.imgur.com/eYrbmrJl.jpg

We removed the oil pump and the main cap then pushed the thrust washers out with a stir stick and a zip-tie. It now has about 2-3 thousandths of play instead of 15 thousandths. It was pretty easy and took about 10 minutes.

Victor convinced me to take apart the oil pump and clean it so that is what we did for the rest of the afternoon. There wasn't any wear in the gears and all looked good except for the spring that controls the pressure relief valve. It doesn't match the length required in the manual so I may have to get a new one later.

https://i.imgur.com/xkW4kJfl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/vVYMI91l.jpg

I washed all the parts in diesel and then we dried them out with compressed air. Here it is all back together. The engine is now ready for reassembly then painting.

https://i.imgur.com/22mi95jl.jpg

I also got a new front pulley seal installed into the timing cover. I tried to use self tapping screws but the first one instantly broke so I abandoned that idea. I went to the bolt shop and they gave me the rivets because it wasn't worth writing the bill for such a small amount.

https://i.imgur.com/4zVdsoKl.jpg

Posted: **Tue Feb 13, 2018 9:00 pm**

Began bolting bits back onto the engine.

Thermostat Installed and the sending unit as well.

https://i.imgur.com/S3dHL2Dl.jpg

Camshaft plate and fuel pump plate installed.

https://i.imgur.com/hxBBR7tl.jpg

Now it's back on the stand and pretty much ready for paint. I just need to put the sump cover on then clean it again and mask everything off

https://i.imgur.com/nWmyXTRl.jpg

Posted: **Sun Feb 25, 2018 8:51 pm**

Today I took the oil pump off to fix a few things I did wrong. Victor and I put the drive gear in backwards so the rod was getting jammed inside the gear so I had to sort that out, the strainer was also moving around too much in my opinion, so I had to find a solution for that.

https://i.imgur.com/YiqUD98l.jpg

As far as I can tell this is the correct way the gear should go in as Victor explained. Because it is machined differently on the other side and the splines on the inside only go halfway down the gear.

I had to run into town and get a new O-ring for the strainer because the original was rock hard. Now it takes much more force to move the strainer.

Got the Sump Cover installed with plenty of sealant on one side and grease on the other, maybe I'll have a leak free engine?

https://i.imgur.com/zXurCiEl.jpg

After that my dad and I covered the parts we don't want blue with tinfoil and masking tape, next on the list is degreasing and cleaning the engine before painting it.

Posted: **Sat Mar 03, 2018 10:58 pm**

Over a month ago I ordered all the gearbox bearings, On Wednesday the final bearings arrived so I am ready to put the gearbox together.

The needle roller bearing on the main shaft came in a blue box and has more play than the one I pulled out of the gearbox....

The bearing on the left is the original and is made slightly different but I don't think they are different parts

https://i.imgur.com/gcKOXvKl.jpg

I also got a new cross shaft seal installed into the clutch release housing and changed the O rings on the gear selector shafts.

https://i.imgur.com/Xi66DQyl.jpg

Hopefully, I will be putting the gearbox back together in the next few days, I sanded down the engine and degreased it once again so it is ready to be painted.

Posted: **Mon Mar 05, 2018 10:46 pm**

This afternoon I did a bit of painting.

Engine In primer and Steering Column being painted in the background, now it's all blue and looking very good!

https://i.imgur.com/xMgMRyAl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/l4odqYMl.jpg

Cleaned the grease and scunge off of the Starter and it looks much better for the clean engine.

https://i.imgur.com/60IdFqpl.jpg

Separated the Exhaust Manifold from the Intake Manifold, I'll put a new gasket on and clean the dust off of them before they go back on.

https://i.imgur.com/Vpd9bdfl.jpg

I also got a large box from Fed-Ex today, Inside was a nice new wiring loom. It looks very well built and worth its price.

https://i.imgur.com/kmxP6FVl.jpg

Posted: **Tue Mar 06, 2018 6:59 am**

Nice paint work. It's looking good!

Posted: **Tue Mar 06, 2018 11:51 pm**

Thanks Stephen, I put a third coat on today and I'm very pleased with how it turned out.

Tonight I started putting the engine back together, I started by putting a new gasket in between the exhaust and intake manifold.

Here it is in its current state.

https://i.imgur.com/uGkQpf1l.jpg

I put the lift pump on but it didn't have a sediment bowl so I had to steal one off the old engine. It had some very stinky gas inside and some thick goo at the bottom. It cleaned up nicely. I'm not sure if the pump is any good because it doesn't build up a vacuum if I cover the inlet pipe.

https://i.imgur.com/zelNfKRl.jpg

I had a bit of a debacle when putting the engine back together. I tried to put the alternator mount back in but the bolt was too long so it ran into the crank pulley and there was no way it was going in unless I pulled the pulley off. When my dad and I took it off we found to our dismay that the lock tab had sheared off. I considered my options. There wasn't a spare on the other engine since it was set up for a capstan winch and a new one cost $20. I had a good look at it then took the hacksaw to it and cut a new tab on the inside of it. Thankfully that solved our issue and I was able to check that job off the list instead of waiting for more parts. Another thing I was worried about was dropping the keyway into the engine but thankfully my dad had the skills to keep it in place and not dislodge it.

Posted: **Wed Mar 07, 2018 11:41 pm**

Tonight I bolted more bits on. I got the alternator, new spark plugs and a fan belt mounted. I moved on to the exhaust manifold, but I have a feeling that it is warped because nothing wants to line up. Are the manifolds supposed to be attached together when put back on the engine or are the intake and exhaust meant to be put on separately? I am having trouble with that.

Since I was stumped with the manifolds I moved on to the distributor. I got a new gasket in place and got it all bolted in, so I checked to make sure that it worked by turning the engine. I was surprised to find out the distributor didn't turn with the motor... Thankfully I have a spare engine I can take apart to see what I've done wrong with the one I'm putting together. It turns out the distributor drive had bounced out of the camshaft and was jammed up against the gears inside. I was lucky that it didn't break or anything otherwise I'd be fishing for bits in the motor and that's never fun. In the photo the splined thing is loose when it should be on top of the drive gear. The second photo shows the splined thing that's been ruined since I forgot to pull it out.

https://i.imgur.com/kjnb2Npl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Tzy4oe4l.jpg

Since the spare engine had a different style of splined thing that had around 10 splines on it I used that, but that meant I had to use the distributor off of the old engine instead of the one I was going to use. To my understanding, they are both Lucas 25D distributors they just have different styles of caps. Are the caps interchangeable between screw type and push type? I have no idea and the internet isn't telling me much.

The screw type is what's installed on the engine now but I have a brand new push type cap in a box. Can I use the new push type or do I need to order a new screw type cap?

https://i.imgur.com/CJxOUPzl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/0c3mmtIl.jpg

Posted: **Thu Mar 08, 2018 11:31 pm**

We finally got around to putting the engine into the frame.

Using the trusty backhoe to insert the motor into the bay with precision.

https://i.imgur.com/iLHJot9l.jpg

The Eagle has landed

https://i.imgur.com/d1hFFQgl.jpg

I got the spin on oil filter installed. It was a nice bonus that came with the engine.

I've got to do a valve set in the next few days but I've lost my crank handle in the messy shop which is annoying.

I figured out the distributor cap interchangeability and I think the manifolds go on together but I'm not sure. Any tips are appreciated.

Posted: **Fri Mar 09, 2018 1:58 pm**

Looks great Colin, can’t wait to see it cruising around! With the manifolds you should bolt them together loosely then fit them to the block. There’s a bit of wiggle room between the intake and exhaust manifolds so it’s best to make sure you have a good seal against the block first, then nip up the 4 bolts holding the manifolds together.

Matt

Posted: **Sun Mar 11, 2018 11:57 pm**

Thanks Matt, I got the manifolds on last night and it looks like they shouldn't leak. I had trouble before but leaving those 4 nuts off did the trick.

On Friday night I got the Valves set correctly. Some were very off and left open when they should've been closed. I double checked them all and they match the clearances on the valve cover. I'll do them again after 100 miles of driving or so.

I also got the flywheel and clutch installed on Friday. I used a special tool to put the pilot bush in and it worked very well. It was a 16mm socket with a bolt through it and 2 big washers on the other side. The socket went on the inside of the bush and prevented it from collapsing while the washers were used to hammer it in. The pilot bush sat in the freezer in a bag full of oil overnight which helped as well. I tested it with the input shaft and it fits snug but turns without snagging.

https://i.imgur.com/cR0VgNll.jpg https://i.imgur.com/GZXpikyl.jpg

New clutch and spring plate installed, I used the input shaft of my gearbox since it was apart. Also added the degreased starter. I shined up the flywheel and pressure plate before I installed them with degreaser and Scotch-Brite pads

https://i.imgur.com/A3GGSIJl.jpg

I saw on the rocker shaft that I'm missing a bolt. I tried to steal another off the old engine but It seems to be a different size. What does this bolt do? Is it really important?? The photo is the front of the rocker shaft and the other is of the bolt I pulled off the spare motor.

https://i.imgur.com/R0jVTY2l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/QIotP5Dl.jpg

Posted: **Mon Mar 12, 2018 2:00 pm**

That bolt locates the rock shaft I believe. If it doesn’t fit the rocker you have on the engine either the threads are stripped or it’s off a later metric engine. You could always swap the entire rocker shaft block you took the bolt off from the other engine as well.

Matt

Posted: **Mon Mar 12, 2018 4:35 pm**

See the attached page from the parts catalog.

Posted: **Mon Mar 12, 2018 8:08 pm**

Thanks Red and Matt. I had a look at both rocker shafts and they are not interchangeable. I don't want to take off the rocker cover either because I would have to pull head bolts out and that may cause problems.

The bolt I plan on using is the correct thread and gauge because it will screw into the other hole on the rocker shaft I'm using. The problem I am having now is that there is no hole in the rocker shaft where one should be. I need to rotate the shaft somehow so the bolt will go in that has the pin on the end. (ETC4660)

Posted: **Mon Mar 12, 2018 9:07 pm**

Make sure that you understand how it goes together. The holes in the rocker shaft must be aligned correctly for the oiling to happen.

I don’t understand why you feel head bolts need to be removed to change anything with the rocker assembly.

Posted: **Mon Mar 12, 2018 11:43 pm**

There are 5 bolts that are being used to hold down the head. To remove the rocker shaft retainers I'd have to pull those out and wouldn't that cause problems with the head gasket?

I have tried turning the rocker shaft with vice grips but that has not worked yet. It only needs to be rotated until I find the hole in the shaft for the bolt.

https://i.imgur.com/zJybB6Wl.jpg

The big bolts go down into the block and are holding on to the rocker shaft. I may need to remove the front of the rocker shaft holder to get a good grip on the shaft to rotate it.

The smaller bolts in front of the one that's missing seem to clamp down on the rocker shaft. I loosened those and it didn't make a difference.

Posted: **Tue Mar 13, 2018 7:29 am**

Try removing the clamp bolts completely and the valve cover studs. It should move as far as I can tell. Unfortunately, you are meant to fit that locating screw first before installing the rocker assembly. Are you using the genuine workshop manual for assembly? You probably want to read the series 3 manual as that looks like a Series 3 rocker assembly. As I read it, that locating bolt is supposed to be installed first before assembling and then installing the rocker assembly.

Just be happy that you noticed as I don't think oil would have been able to get into the rocker shaft with it rotated in the wrong position.

Posted: **Tue Mar 13, 2018 9:15 am**

I wouldn’t worry about removing the head bolts that pass through the rocker assembly, just torque them back to spec once you’ve sorted out the rocker assembly. If you’ve used a composite head gasket then you shouldn’t expect any leaks between the block and head once you’ve run it up to temp.

Matt

Posted: **Tue Mar 13, 2018 9:23 am**

I will try pulling the clamp bolts and studs out completely when I have a chance. I haven't had this rocker shaft apart I found it this way so nothing has been assembled. I am not sure what this engine is out of but it is a 3 Main Bearing motor, maybe a late IIA?

Matt, it has a copper head gasket as far as I know. I have not pulled the head off of this engine.

Posted: **Tue Mar 13, 2018 5:26 pm**

Oh, makes sense. I thought you were rebuilding it. I would not pull the 5 bolts then without pulling the head and changing the head gasket. 5 bearing engines came out in 1980, well into the Series 3s.

Posted: **Sun Apr 01, 2018 7:32 am**

Hi Red, what about just removing one of the head bolts at the front near the thermostat housing? Would I still need to change the gasket?

Posted: **Sun Apr 01, 2018 11:06 am**

I would not chance it myself. You leave yourself open to the possibility of a leak as well as warping the head. Head gaskets are cheap.

Posted: **Sun Apr 01, 2018 5:32 pm**

Thanks Red for the advice, but it seems that my rocker shaft is one solid piece instead of 2. This means it is aligned with only one bolt.

My rocker shaft has no split unlike the other.
https://i.imgur.com/Ur9ZzDbl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/tuIJOp4l.jpg

The oil holes are on top at each end of the shaft so it will be fine without the other bolt.

At the front

https://i.imgur.com/AhCfwSFl.jpg

Behind the middle of the rocker shaft.

https://i.imgur.com/kETuZOpl.jpg

Posted: **Sun Apr 01, 2018 5:54 pm**

The shafts is upside-down or you are looking in the wrong location. There are oil feed holes on both sides for the rockers, but only on one side for the locating bolt. Also, it is not clear from your photos, but are you using the correct rocker support for the locating pin? It should be the second from the front of the engine.

See around 10:30.

Posted: **Sun Apr 01, 2018 5:56 pm**

Or...the shaft may be installed back to front.

Posted: **Sun Apr 01, 2018 8:13 pm**

The locating Pin is installed in the second hole from the front of the engine. There is no hole in the rocker shaft for the locating pin to thread into at the front but the locating pin at the back was already threaded in and lined up. This pin is in between cylinder 3 and 4. So I suppose this means the shaft is installed backwards. It should work either way, shouldn't it?

Posted: **Sun Apr 01, 2018 8:48 pm**

cbalme wrote:It should work either way, shouldn't it?

I'm not sure. If it is completely symmetrical, it should not matter. It looks like it, but I can't guarantee it.

Posted: **Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:23 pm**

It seems as though there is an oil return and entry gallery from that video so it should work either way. I think I will use it the way it is and take my chances.

Posted: **Tue Apr 03, 2018 10:46 pm**

Well I did another valve set and found one adjuster to be of concern. Is this a sign of bad things or is it normal? It is screwed in very far compared to the others. I checked the pushrod and it is straight and compared to another push rod they're the same length.

The photo is of #6 adjuster, which was adjusted when #3 valve was open.

https://i.imgur.com/n8h5idLl.jpg

The push rods from the old motor are slightly longer compared to the ones from this motor.

Posted: **Wed Apr 04, 2018 6:58 am**

Are the valve heights the same? Rocker bent?

Posted: **Thu Apr 05, 2018 6:42 am**

Yeah with an engine that old I’d bet on valve height. All mine were about .25” short - and with not much zip left in the spring.

Posted: **Thu Apr 05, 2018 10:26 pm**

The valve heights seem about the same compared to valves near #6

https://i.imgur.com/P5viCbVl.jpg

The next thing I'd suspect would be something to do with the cam and followers. The plan is to rebuild the Solex 40 PA in the next few days and see if the engine will run. Then I'll decide from there what to do.

I have been making progress in other places like the steering and Air filter. It's a lot of painting to make things look nice and tidy. The steering box is in very good shape it just needs a new gasket to solve a leak.

https://i.imgur.com/4ze0ULXl.jpg

Air Filter installed

https://i.imgur.com/apQIIaRl.jpg

Posted: **Sun Apr 08, 2018 11:02 pm**

Got a bit of work done today on the old Series, refurbished the Solex Carb and got it back on the Motor. Very close to firing it up and seeing if it actually runs!

My Grandfather and I tore the carb apart and cleaned it up and reassembled it with a kit. It was missing some parts so we just cleaned and reused the old ones.

https://i.imgur.com/hDKdUaSl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/FxiLSnAl.jpg

Then without anything else left to do I decided to bend up the brake lines for the rear axle. I used my hand to bend the lines so it's not very pretty. The lines are longer than they need to be which is annoying.

https://i.imgur.com/C6do0gZl.jpg

Posted: **Thu Apr 19, 2018 10:17 pm**

We've finally got around to putting the gearbox back together. Victor came over last afternoon to give us a hand.

Here we are pressing first gear on to the layshaft. They had to remove it and take all the wax off. I'd left it on which turned out to be a bad idea.
https://i.imgur.com/QIOPR4Ll.jpg

Pressing the bearing on to the primary pinion. We made sure to the washer on the other side as per the manual. The previous time it was apart someone put the washer on the wrong side.
https://i.imgur.com/iCMza1dl.jpg

We then put the primary pinion into the bellhousing. We had a hell of a time trying to pound the bearing in so we used a heat gun to warm the bellhousing for 5 minutes then it just fell in. It was quite comical how easy it was compared to before. We used the same trick for the layshaft bearing and tightened up all the studs and bolts that held them in.
https://i.imgur.com/WS5iBEcl.jpg

Getting the gears ready to go in. at the time we had the layshaft assembled in the wrong order but we figured that out later when the Syncro wouldn't fit beside the gears
https://i.imgur.com/xsLEqawl.jpg

Didn't take many photos of the assembly since it required many hands but it went together without too much trouble. The biggest issue was lining up the layshaft with the main shaft but after a bit of fiddling, we got it to go. The gear that matches the primary pinion was put on at the same time as the bellhousing and primary pinion since it was the only way we could get things to align.
https://i.imgur.com/680NHJ0l.jpg

We called it a night after we got the gear selectors aligned. We ran it through all the gears and none of them grind so it is ready for the transfer case and final reassembly.
https://i.imgur.com/tTXM03yl.jpg

Posted: **Fri Apr 20, 2018 11:14 pm**

Did a bit of fiddling with the gearbox tonight. Hopefully I'll have it done by next week.

I only got the reverse springs installed tonight. It was missing one so I just changed them both while it was apart.

https://i.imgur.com/g5AtBjml.jpg

Posted: **Sun Apr 22, 2018 1:05 pm**

I got bored Saturday night and decided to put the box back together. I finished it up this morning and just need to put the slave cylinder back on then it's done.

I adjusted the clutch release pin with the 7/16 drill bit and bolted it back on. I also put the top back on with some grease to hopefully seal it.
https://i.imgur.com/gJczUV1l.jpg

Then shimmed up the transfer case, it didn't need any extras it was already perfect.
https://i.imgur.com/DI8CKdnl.jpg

After that I mated it all together. I put the intermediate shaft in before the gearbox output gear which was a mistake so I had to take all of that apart again.
https://i.imgur.com/8TmA9bAl.jpg

Put the springs in for the gears and setting the clearances with the adjusters
https://i.imgur.com/dyFVZd2l.jpg

Just a few more things then it's ready to go back in!
https://i.imgur.com/uRC20lBl.jpg

Posted: **Sun Apr 22, 2018 11:35 pm**

I was expecting to be able to put the box back in the truck this afternoon but found a crack in the pipe that connects the slave cylinder to the throwout assembly.

You can just make out a hairline crack beside the hole for the pin. Above is the galvanized pipe we used to make a new one.
https://i.imgur.com/6uVqzdFl.jpg

Our reamer was broken so I had to file it out by hand which took quite a while. Eventually, I got it to fit as it should with a new grommet in place.
https://i.imgur.com/I0c2eo5l.jpg

Put a shiny new slave cylinder into the housing I found in my parts pile that was nice and clean. I will adjust it later one I get the hydraulics installed.
https://i.imgur.com/nZcCdcJl.jpg

I also cleaned and degreased all the mounts so I can paint them.

Posted: **Mon Apr 23, 2018 10:37 am**

Great progress Colin, I'm feeling a bit guilty having left my project for a few weeks and watching all your good progress.

So regarding the gearbox, now that you put it all back together, did you find a lot of wear and tear on gears or bearings or were the replacement parts more just to change them while you had it on the bench? I'm at that point where I am going to change all my seals, but not really seeing any wear or excess movement in the bearings or gears.
Reluctant (or lazy) to just change bearings for the sake of it .... hummmm...

Posted: **Mon Apr 23, 2018 8:11 pm**

Hi Andy, good to hear it is still being worked on. With this gearbox my original plan was to just change all the gaskets and seals but I crushed that rear layshaft bearing by accident so I had to take it all apart. After disassembly 1st gear was found to be in bad shape so we changed it out. Other than that all the gears were in good shape. It's very easy to change the bearings if you have a heat gun and a freezer or access to a shop press. We changed 3 out of the 5 bearings inside the gearbox because they were easy to deal with even though they were in good shape. We left the rear mainshaft bearing because it was in perfect condition and reused the old bearing that goes between the mainshaft and the primary pinion because the new britpart bearing had more play.

I didn't change any transfer case bearings I just took it apart and cleaned it. When you go to put everything back together just shim it all and make sure it's set to the correct preloads and that sort of thing.

Overall I would just give the whole box a good look over and change anything that looks overly worn. I'd also talk to Victor or Matt who are quite good at this sort of thing.

Posted: **Wed Apr 25, 2018 12:13 am**

This afternoon we got the gearbox installed. It was very fiddly and took a while to line everything up but then it all just slid into place.
https://i.imgur.com/5Tx9eaOl.jpg

I was having troulble aligning the mounts and it turns out I put the removable cross memeber on the wrong way round. Once I got that sorted out it went into place quite well
https://i.imgur.com/qAe4Nayl.jpg

Then I put the handbrake on with a bit of siliconce on the mudshield. The shoes were easy to put on on the bench with older springs
https://i.imgur.com/lv0TIdYl.jpg

Then I torqued up the flange, put the drum on and adjusted the handbrake to how it should be.
https://i.imgur.com/pcD1df0l.jpg

Also made a new cork gasket for the filler hole on top. It took two tries and turned out okay.
https://i.imgur.com/md1ltE2l.jpg

Next job is putting the propshafts on and then onto welding the bulkead!

Posted: **Sun May 06, 2018 10:19 pm**

It's been a busy week without much progress on the Land Rover.

Propshafts got installed last weekend with new bolts.
https://i.imgur.com/S5jWafnl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/XBa9t1gl.jpg

Bought a battery that was an inch too long so I had to trade it for another. Getting closer and closer to firing it up!
https://i.imgur.com/tmhVGx7l.jpg

Found out that Land Rover makes two carburettor elbows, one is for the Solex on the left and the other is for a Weber or Zenith on the right. You can slightly see that the one on the right is slightly bigger. So I had to paint the other and not use the nicely painted one I already had. Now it's all connected and the old vacuum advance I found in the parts bin is hooked up.
https://i.imgur.com/Bf0FG11l.jpg

I also got a vintage Jack-All from my grandpa which will suit the 109 quite nicely.
https://i.imgur.com/2rBDIVxl.jpg

Posted: **Sun May 27, 2018 8:51 pm**

After taking a break from working on the Land Rover to focus on school I found some time to get some work in.

I exchanged my other battery for one with the reversed terminals so it'll work with my Land Rover.

https://i.imgur.com/Ppw2wG9l.jpg

Gave the inside of the frame a thick coat of Wax, hopefully it'll be good but I may need to recoat it because this stuff doesn't harden.
https://i.imgur.com/RBTfMrSl.jpg

Two Cans barely did the whole frame and I had to buy the applicator separately. It came with 3 lengths but I only used the long one.

https://i.imgur.com/2dOWKlal.jpg https://i.imgur.com/FVebCwNl.jpg

I also replaced the original breather hoses for the Axles since they were only stubs. Hopefully these will be long enough and not get snagged on anything. I don't think I will need breather hoses that go all the way up to the top of the bulkhead since I don't plan on doing any deep wading.

Back Axle

https://i.imgur.com/XPV5vKil.jpg

Front Axle. There was no where to route the hose on the other side of the frame so I had to route the hose over the diff.

https://i.imgur.com/L6tAQ0Ll.jpg

Posted: **Mon Jun 04, 2018 12:20 pm**

A few little things got done yesterday. I painted the radiator and shroud and screwed them back together. I had the radiator tested by Gerwin Solutions. It was tested up to 10 pounds and held up fine So I may get a few more years out of it. It only needed a new cap and tap. I have yet to find a cap because it is the rare kind off of a Series 1.

https://i.imgur.com/E9WoOU2l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ExP1Jx9l.jpg

I drained the old gear oil out of the steering box and filled it up to the brim with thin one shot grease. This should stop any leaks and keep it lubricated up for many years to come.

I then turned my attention to the steering wheel. I spend a good hour wire wheeling the main aluminium part and then degreased the handle and everything. I then taped off the chrome parts. After it was all masked off I took some JB weld and forced it into the cracks in the plastic so it would be strong again. I then gave one more good degreasing with scotchbrite and then primed everything with self-etching primer. Tonight I'll sand it back a bit and then give it a few coats of gloss black.

https://i.imgur.com/m3JdbJCl.jpg

Posted: **Mon Jun 04, 2018 9:44 pm**

Put two coats of gloss black on the wheel this afternoon. It's looking very good and I'm quite pleased with how it turned out.

https://i.imgur.com/5tdkzWtl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/L3WwbVdl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/FOkBy2Dl.jpg

I also painted the part that does the electrics for the horn and the self-cancelling turn signals.

https://i.imgur.com/o0bokvQl.jpg

Now I need to find something to coat the horn and surround. It is supposed to look wrinkly but has a pattern. I am going to look into finding a wrinkle paint.

Posted: **Mon Jun 04, 2018 10:24 pm**

You can get Eastwood black wrinkle paint from KMS. They usually have it in stock.

Looking good!!
M.

Posted: **Tue Jun 12, 2018 10:51 pm**

Thanks for the tip Martin, the only KMS we have on the island is in Victoria so I'll look around locally before heading down. How do I separate the button from the surround that needs to be painted?

Tonight we turned the engine over on the starter, just to make sure the oil pump was working and to make sure the rocker shaft was getting oil. It was a rough start because I forgot to add the oil pressure gauge so I emptied a litre of oil onto the floor before I noticed my mistake. After plugging in the gauge we turned it over again and got 30lbs of pressure and the rocker shaft began emptying oil out of the holes so it turns out the way the shaft is facing doesn't matter.

Click on the photo and it will take you to a video.

http://i.imgur.com/5Stym7Fl.mp4

The original gauge showed 30lbs. I ordered a brand new one off of Craddock which will be cheaper than getting it rebuilt.

https://i.imgur.com/UUDHgK1l.jpg

Just need to sort out the electrical and fuel then it'll be ready to run by itself!

Posted: **Sun Jun 17, 2018 3:16 pm**

Haven't got around to firing up the motor just yet, but it is almost all wired in and ready to go. In the meantime I got the centre horn button painted.

First of all, I disassembled it everything. You just need a small chisel to pry the tab over and then some water pump pliers to twist the centrepiece out. Here it is all in bits after bending the tab over.

https://i.imgur.com/D7fhfOzl.jpg

I then took the horn button and wet sanded the deep scratches and imperfections out with 400 grit sandpaper, it gave a super smooth finish and turned out quite nice with a coat of gloss black but I don't have any photos.

Matt told me to make sure the metal wasn't cold so I put it in the sun for an hour before I painted the horn surround.

https://i.imgur.com/7nIHFtkl.jpg

I took a can of VHT Wrinkle Plus to it. It sort of looked wavy and disappointing but the can said to expect that so I left for a bit.

https://i.imgur.com/wHAvF2tl.jpg

Then came back to this.

https://i.imgur.com/p6V1dPJh.jpg

The metal was almost too hot to hold at the time I painted it which I think made the wrinkles tighter than they should be but I am still very impressed!

My photos don't really show all the details but it looks the part.

Posted: **Tue Jun 19, 2018 10:36 pm**

Put the horn button and centrepiece back together and it looks great!

https://i.imgur.com/50ye3xfl.jpg

I got the rest of the steering wheel back together, I just need to figure out a way to take all the tape off as it's stuck on there really well.

https://i.imgur.com/FpLGqj9l.jpg

My parts for the handbrake from Roversnorth finally arrived, even in a green bag!

https://i.imgur.com/yvfcK30l.jpg

I finished installing the handbrake this afternoon and it goes on tight after about 4 clicks. I also installed a spring but I am not sure if that is where it is actually supposed to go.

https://i.imgur.com/yI9tZXul.jpg

A close up of the return spring. I'm not sure it's in the right place.

https://i.imgur.com/wG153lIl.jpg

Posted: **Thu Jun 21, 2018 1:56 pm**

On my S2 the return spring affixed to the backing plate. I have a poor quality photo somewhere if you need it...

Posted: **Tue Jun 26, 2018 11:13 pm**

Hi oldgravy, I'd love a photo I'm not sure I set mine up right but it seems to be working.

I got a bunch of stuff from craddocks this afternoon.

A new gauge to replace the one that was missing the temperature sender.

https://i.imgur.com/bkbbMS9l.jpg

A new radiator cap which is very tight to put on. Time will tell whether it works or not.

https://i.imgur.com/J1FlTWgl.jpg

Brake line brackets for a Series III axle were installed as well. I may need to get a different type of flex hose with a long part on both ends.

https://i.imgur.com/w5b3KSql.jpg

Posted: **Fri Jun 29, 2018 3:45 pm**

Here's what I got.

Posted: **Sun Jul 01, 2018 9:06 am**

I must have a different handbrake backing plate than you, mine doesn’t have a hook like yours.

Posted: **Tue Jul 03, 2018 12:08 am**

Just been chipping away at little jobs like cleaning parts and getting them ready for paint.

Finally got a Power Brake Tower thanks to Matt, now I can do a proper job on the brake system. When I got the brake tower it was seized solid, so straight into a bucket of diesel it went. Then I pulled it out and took the impact driver to all the nuts and pulled the servo off which went straight into the bin.

https://i.imgur.com/NiCW601l.jpg

Took a bit of persuading with a brass mallet to get the pedal to move back and forth smoothly but now I can move it around by hand so I will wire wheel and paint it with POR 15 after I find a suitable clutch pedal in my parts loft.

https://i.imgur.com/XuHyHWol.jpg

Very very close to firing up the old 2.25. It is all wired in properly as far as I know. The white wire goes to the + Terminal on the battery and the red one goes to the distributor.
https://i.imgur.com/z9MfDl5l.jpg

I had to take the fuel pump off the old seized motor after messing around with the one I was trying to use for over an hour, Something is wrong with the diaphragm it won't build pressure. The original AC pump was pulled off the seized block and pumped fuel like crazy. I bet it's been rebuilt at some point because it has a few stripped screws.

https://i.imgur.com/TWeUchTl.jpg

Once I run a fuel line to the carb it should be ready to fire up!

Posted: **Tue Jul 03, 2018 11:28 pm**

Exciting times.... good luck with the start up, hope it roars like a lion (or purrs like a cat!)

The steering wheel came out well, good work.

Posted: **Wed Jul 04, 2018 12:01 am**

Thanks Andy, very pleased with how the wheel turned out.

I started this evening with plumbing in the fuel lines from the pump.

https://i.imgur.com/FVr8zQjl.jpg

Then pushed it into the yard to fire it up.

https://i.imgur.com/1gTWw3Kl.jpg

After doing a bit of fiddling we ran some jumper cables to the starter and tried turning it over. It turned over quite a few times and barely coughed into life and then stalled on us. Disappointing results but that means it can run, and I will make it run!

It gets spark, it's getting fuel, and it has air, I think it is lacking the pull from the starter motor or crank handle. The starter weakly turns it over and I wasn't able to crank it over by hand fast enough. Tomorrow I will get it to go somehow. If anyone has any advice it would be greatly appreciated because I don't really know what I'm doing.

Posted: **Wed Jul 04, 2018 8:06 am**

Hand cranking does not require speed and you'll never get any unless you have little to no compression. You'll only get one hit past compression at a time however I don't think I would expect to get a rebuild to start first time on the crank unless you know that everything else is spot on. Put a known good battery in it and take it from there.

Good luck.

Posted: **Wed Jul 04, 2018 10:57 pm**

I thought it was all in the speed of the pull? I understand I can only hit it once and then I have to hook the crank handle back into the pulley. The battery is brand new and reading 13.3 volts when I began turning it over and has been recharged.

Which way is full choke on the Solex? I'm pretty sure it's pulled all the way back towards the bulkhead.

It did cough and sputter for a second so the timing is sort of set.

Posted: **Thu Jul 05, 2018 11:59 pm**

After messing around with it this afternoon I decided to set the plug gap properly, I think that did the trick it fired up and roared like a lion before stalling because it ran out of gas.

"There you go, it runs" sums up this video pretty well.

Posted: **Fri Jul 06, 2018 6:56 am**

Amazing, that’s got to be the best feeling ever 🙌🏼.

Posted: **Wed Aug 01, 2018 11:16 pm**

Chipping away at little jobs now.

Painted the brake and clutch booster after disassembling them both. Came out very bad with POR-15 Semi-Gloss black. It had no gloss to it and was completely flat. Going to try a tin of full gloss and see how that looks.

https://i.imgur.com/p2qmXGSl.jpg

Started getting the body panels ready for paint. Found some doors, wings, and door tops that will be painted bronze green with the new paint guns I bought for really cheap at princess auto

https://i.imgur.com/ne0ePMpm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/scF2IwBm.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/1VLVOSym.jpg https://i.imgur.com/00ewrUdm.jpg

Then turned to get the tub ready for paint. This is going to be the most painful to repair since it has a few layers of poorly applied paint.

Looks pretty good on the back of the truck!

https://i.imgur.com/llJHgvPl.jpg

All the galvanising removed. Planning on doing the same for the hood.

https://i.imgur.com/ogepIxul.jpg

Unfortunately I found bondo on the rear left panel. That's the only place that's got it as far as I can tell and it's on there thick. Here's an 11/32 socket for scale.

https://i.imgur.com/gMZ8L1al.jpg

Not really sure what to do there. It is too much of a hassle to replace that panel so I may just slap some more bondo back on or leave it alone. Most of the damage is hidden by the license plate anyways...

My shiny rebuilt gearbox is already leaking, I think this hot weather has something to do with it :x

The engine also leaks out of the front crank main seal. So off comes the timing cover in the next few days :roll:

Posted: **Thu Aug 02, 2018 9:19 am**

Re Leaks - So she's already marking her spot! Must be British!

You might want to take the seal to your local bearing house and see if you can get a double lip equivalent. Failing that, check the crank for wear. If so, see about getting a "speedy sleeve" to repair.

Re Bondo - I don't know about you, but I've seen way too many Series with cracked and falling off bondo. The thin aluminum flexes in vehicle use and causes the rigid bondo to crack and fall off. So if you plan to use the vehicle offroad at all, I'd think about taking off the bondo that is there and using a propane torch, "shrinking" hammer (has a spiral-milled face shrinks metal on impact) and dolly to get the dents out. I've used them in the past and it really works. Google it -there's lots of info and video's online.

Just my 2 cents. And keep up the great work!!

M.

Posted: **Thu Aug 02, 2018 12:30 pm**

Hey Colin, looking good!

I had to speedy sleeve my crank seal as well - so far so good RE: leaks from that spot. My gearbox/transfer case is also leaking after replacing all the gaskets/seals and being generous with the RTV. Apparently this is just par for the course according to everyone I've spoken too - frustrating, but you just learn to live with it I guess (and check fluid levels regularly!)…

That bondo is giving me flashbacks to my body panels - I think I had up to a 1/4" of the stuff on the worst areas! I ended up chipping/sanding mine away but it was a horrible job and I'm left with a dented, pucked and shot gun blast scarred body that adds a certain charm lol

Posted: **Thu Aug 02, 2018 8:16 pm**

Thanks Martin and Dave. I'll look into a double lipped seal I didn't think of that. I ordered two crank seals because I've heard you can fit two in the front hole.

I replaced the crank pulley with a brand new one already because the old one was very worn.

With the gearbox I'm hoping that if I put the proper weight oil in it will leak less, right now it has a very thin GL4 Hydraulic fluid/Tractor Transmission fluid just to flush all the junk out and then I'll put the right stuff back in.

I agree with not putting bondo back on the panels, the 110 has it in the rear tub after being rear-ended and you can see massive cracks it looks awful. The doors I am using have a thin skim of bondo already so I won't bother taking it off just leave them alone. The tub I am using must've run into something I found a 3/4 inch hole punched through where I was chipping off bondo.

The license plate covers most of the damage so I'll do my best to hammer out the majority of the dent and then leave it be.

Posted: **Tue Aug 14, 2018 12:11 am**

Got some more painting done in this nice weather, also getting closer to painting the bronze green.

New paint on the brake and clutch pedal towers, starter button and headlight switch.

https://i.imgur.com/fmA8IVql.jpg https://i.imgur.com/dXq9bJul.jpg

Replaced all the tie rod ends with the safe type for my tie rods and installed the correct Series III brake lines from the chassis to axle.

https://i.imgur.com/lY1seXNl.jpg

Then turned back to the dreaded bondo. Took it off with a rapid strip sanding disk on an angle grinder which made short work of it.

https://i.imgur.com/2QHsOiJl.jpg

The metal has stretched quite a lot, haven't tried the shrinking hammer yet but a license plate hides the worst of it so it may not be needed.

https://i.imgur.com/v5F66myl.jpg

My buddy who is building his own series of Series came over to help me pound out the dents in the tub. Most of them came out and I'm quite pleased with that next is the wings.

https://i.imgur.com/Dgieu2jl.jpg

This evening I tore the timing cover off. Not as bad of a job as I thought. Used two new seals and self-tapping screws this time instead of the rivets. I figured out the hard way that a rivet is no good for holding a mud shield on unless it is sealed. There were clear holes into the engine so that may explain the very large puddle of oil upon startup.

https://i.imgur.com/z7tZ8dnl.jpg

Mostly back together now, the next task is trying to mount a Lucas Alternator to the block without the proper mount. The old 19j came in handy for something other than a boat anchor when I hauled it out of the lake to get the power steering and alternator bracket off of it. I got it mounted up to the Petrol block but the alternator pulley doesn't line up with the belts on the other pulleys. I may have to bite the bullet and source the proper bracket for just a Lucas alternator.

https://i.imgur.com/I24xTxvl.jpg

It is so close to lining up. Just slightly too far forward. Any advice?

https://i.imgur.com/1kMofV0l.jpg

Posted: **Tue Aug 14, 2018 3:19 pm**

Love it! Hauled the 19J out of the lake. Most of us have a spares stash, but somewhere more conventional.
Looking good Colin. Not long now.

Posted: **Fri Aug 24, 2018 11:51 pm**

Picked up a few parts from Greg's farm this week, like this battery hold down.

https://i.imgur.com/viKy2ADl.jpg

Also redid the nameplates. I used a rapid strip sanding disk because I was too lazy to sand all the letters.

https://i.imgur.com/84K3f7zl.jpg

I also picked up the proper alternator mount for a 2.25, it turns out the pulley is the wrong one for this engine so it will need modification.

https://i.imgur.com/dhJpqW4l.jpg

Straightened the passenger side wing pretty well but the left one needs exchanging with a different wing in better shape I think.

https://i.imgur.com/zPVJznUl.jpg

Proof that I'm getting closer to painting is this newly built paint booth. Hopefully get all the green bits painted next week.

https://i.imgur.com/SroPT4pl.jpg

Then turned my attention to the bulkhead, I had been debating for a long time whether to replace the footwells, someone went crazy with a drill before I got it. Rather than just filling the holes I had the footwells replaced. Much less time and way stronger than the originals who were already pretty thin.

https://i.imgur.com/M9GJ3FYl.jpg

Cut them out and welded in new footwells.

https://i.imgur.com/cKrNWTFl.jpg

Some of the holes won't line up but thats nothing a bigger drill bit and some nice wide washers can't hide!

https://i.imgur.com/ClRNqd3l.jpg

This evening I tidied up the fuel lines, instead of running above the distributor and over the rocker panel it now follows along the right of the engine then goes above the thermostat as it should.

https://i.imgur.com/DifCsATl.jpg

Posted: **Sat Aug 25, 2018 10:05 am**

Hey Colin, Awesome job with keeping your Landy project moving along steadily. I'm guilty of letting my project grind to a halt in the summer, although I did pick up a big suitcase of engine parts while visiting England. I'm very jealous of all the space you have there in that barn, even have room for your own spray booth!
Keep up the good work ..........
Andy

Posted: **Sun Aug 26, 2018 11:59 pm**

Thanks Andy, it is very useful having a large shop but one downside is that it's hard to keep such a large space clean!

Got the Lucas 16ACR installed with the proper pulley. Now it's ready for the engine wiring loom.

https://i.imgur.com/NUYVdZCl.jpg

Also cut the holes for the Kodiak Mark II Heater, hopefully it's in the right spot but as far as I can tell it's not terribly critical.

https://i.imgur.com/NtPHtIWl.jpg

If anyone has parts for a Kodiak Mark II I am looking for a right-hand defroster, intake cowling and shutoff valve.

Posted: **Tue Sep 04, 2018 7:35 pm**

Had a very busy week last week. From Monday to Saturday I was spending most of my time prepping everything for paint. I did not realize it was that much work.

After the first layer of stripper and a fair bit of work. The biggest job was the tub because it had so many old crusty layers of paint. The rest of the truck has good paint so I will just scuff and sand it. I did end up finding a few more bondo areas which weren't as bad compared to the other spot.

https://i.imgur.com/HrpjuePl.jpg

It took 4-5 stripping discs and lots of aircraft aluminum stripper to get the job done and a few days of hard work shared between my dad and I but for the most part everything's done. Here it is all done up hanging off the tractor The Gods must be Crazy style (although much less extreme) to chop off the ends of the u bolts.

https://i.imgur.com/Ld1bZCjl.jpg

Using the old wings because I will most likely beat them up a fair bit so now I won't wince when they get dings in them.

https://i.imgur.com/GsAcdfJl.jpg

A mostly sandblasted bulkhead, when the sandblaster was working it was quite enjoyable but the reliability of that thing is worse than Land Rovers...

https://i.imgur.com/coNDIHTl.jpg

Hopefully I'll be able to come home on most weekends to spray everything before it gets too cold, otherwise I'll invest in a heater.

I'm debating on whether I repaint the deep sills as well, I know they get crunched very easily in the bush. Another option is to get some rock sliders welded up with some thick square tube which is what I'm leaning towards.

Posted: **Mon Sep 17, 2018 12:17 am**

Got a little bit of work done this weekend. The Carburettor was leaking when it ran so I bent the float a bit so that should help.

Also replaced the pinion flanges, it's one of those jobs that should've been done when the diffs were apart but they were overlooked. The old ones weren't too bad so they'll become spares.

https://i.imgur.com/eQz0Coxl.jpg

Went quite smoothly but found this on the rear diff. Someone (myself) must've put it in wrong. I'm very confused because it looks as though the seal is the right way round but the spring is on the outside. Is this a double lipped seal?

https://i.imgur.com/nYpwzKEl.jpg

Posted: **Wed Sep 19, 2018 12:11 am**

Hi Colin,
The manual states that the lip (and spring) should be facing in towards the axel. Its hard to see from your photo but I wonder if the lip of the seal has folded inside out when you pulled the flange off?
There should also be locking tabs under the nuts (couldn't see them in your photo).
Cheers,
Andy

Posted: **Fri Sep 21, 2018 5:22 pm**

Hi Andy, thanks for the help. I did a quick google search of the part number (FRC 4586) and it appears to be in the correct position. There is a spring on the inside and outside.

https://www.lrdirect.com/FRC4586-suppli ... rteco.html

The reason that there is no locking tab is that they were broken, I replaced them with spring washers that are covered in black paint. (Even though that part is supposed to be bare)

Posted: **Mon Oct 08, 2018 5:38 pm**

Got a few little tasks done this weekend and a big milestone reached this afternoon.

Routed the vacuum advance the right way round, before this it would've hit the throttle linkages.

https://i.imgur.com/sbPFf3rl.jpg

Then started on hanging body panels for paint. Bit tricky finding a way for everything to fit in but we got it done.

https://i.imgur.com/fHyIgNEl.jpg

Today we sanded all the panels with 320 grit paper and then gave them a final wipe, then painted them in a very vibrant green.

https://i.imgur.com/v3CGqxJl.jpg

Luckily that was just the primer and not the final coat, I don't think I could handle a truck that colour. Looks almost like pastel green.

Here it is with the first coat on, after supper we'll get a second coat on.

https://i.imgur.com/eqW6iKql.jpg

Overall very impressed with how it turned out, had to add a few runs and imperfections in definitely on purpose to make it authentic. I'll let it dry over the week and then it goes on Saturday, exciting times!!!

Posted: **Mon Oct 08, 2018 7:06 pm**

Authenticity is important! Congrats.

Posted: **Mon Oct 15, 2018 10:19 pm**

Well, it seems as though it's two steps forward one step back so far with the painting of this truck. I said in my last post that I didn't care how the paint turned out, but I changed my mind. The bulkhead had rough sections and I tried to wet sand them just a bit too much and sanded through to the primer. I also missed a huge spot so it needs to go back in the booth. At the same time I will paint the wings and hood I think.

Most of the other parts turned out very good but some of them need redoing. Here's what it looks like right now, it's beginning to resemble a truck again!

https://i.imgur.com/h9yyodrl.jpg

I had a huge debacle with the radiator shroud as well, it turns out the previous owner had installed a series 1 shroud and had just mangle it to make it fit. This shroud has the hole sitting about an inch lower than the standard Series 2 shroud. If anyone has one they are willing to sell it would be greatly appreciated, although I've been told they are not necessary. Here's the shroud interfering with the fan.

https://i.imgur.com/7pKT49ll.jpg

There is a visible difference between the two shrouds

Series 1

https://i.imgur.com/6p5itPpl.jpg?1

Series 2

https://i.imgur.com/rWWzBaCl.jpg

The radiator sans shroud for the moment.

https://i.imgur.com/3QW18Shl.jpg

Also "restored" the heating system over the weekend. It's a Kodiak MkII so unfortunately it only has the very small heater pipes, but I figured there was no use upgrading to a MkIII or MkIV since it is only heating a small space inside the pickup cab. Unfortunately, my heater did not come with the ducting or cowl that forces the air into the matrix, I am also looking for one of those off of a MkII if anyone has one lying around. I have a feeling that someone has upgraded this heater with a larger matrix in the past as well, which should also compensate for the smaller diameter pipes. I have not tested the motor yet but everything has been flushed out and cleaned up.

https://i.imgur.com/dqLaG9Ol.jpg

All the ducting inside the cab has been painting nicely with a few coats of gloss black.

https://i.imgur.com/jGDRdNQl.jpg

Hoping to get the bulkhead repainted on Friday along with the other bits and then give it a good week to cure, then it will stay on for good!

Posted: **Tue Oct 16, 2018 7:51 am**

Great progress Colin. Also nice to meet up and chat rovers yesterday 😊

Posted: **Mon Nov 05, 2018 7:54 pm**

Beginning to put all bits back on the bulkhead. I'm having trouble remembering where everything goes so if anyone sees anything amiss just let me know

So far the steering wheel and one vent is installed, that may not seem like a lot but it took a very long time to line everything up and shim it.

https://i.imgur.com/kTUxg25l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/QzESVGWl.jpg

Also installed the choke cable and starter button, now I just need to figure out how to wire it. I am assuming you ground the starter to the strengthening brack bolts? Sort of like this?

https://i.imgur.com/414gouhl.jpg?1

Got the new shroud in and it fits as it should! No idea why there was a Series 1 shroud installed before.

https://i.imgur.com/dOjDXGyl.jpg

I'm also having an issue with the parabolic springs, They are touching the frame with only the engine installed. I tried installing military shackles but that makes the truck sit too high and the shocks are overextending. I think I may just cut the outer wrap off but if anyone has any other suggestions they would be useful. I have a set of LWB rear shackles that I could try using on the front, although wouldn't that mess with the steering geometry?

A few photos to help visualize what I'm dealing with.

https://i.imgur.com/g2IWiNAl.jpg

The axle sits very high at the moment, I have an ex military frame so it is installed in the lower hole at the moment

https://i.imgur.com/M4ELtB3l.jpg

Posted: **Tue Nov 06, 2018 9:16 pm**

Looks great Colin, this is going to be a nice truck! Don’t worry too much about the springs until you’ve completely assembled the truck. Leave the shackles just snugged up with the bolts and the nuts hand tight. They will settle and move a lot once you have all the weight in the truck and drive it. My parabolics also touch the frame at the rear of the front springs, I think the main leaf wrap should be tighter around the bushing but I don’t design/make these things. All of my trucks in the past have had dents in the frame where the rear of the front spring has contacted the frame.
Also, cut that top rad hose down a bit, it looks a little kinked!
Matt

Posted: **Wed Nov 07, 2018 10:09 am**

Hi Matt, I was looking at the frame and it seems as though the rear mount for the front spring is drilled farther up on the frame rail. I'll have a better look at my other LWB frames but for now, I think I'll put it back to normal. I would've thought if the spring was touching it would make for a very rough ride.

Yes the hose is kinked, I am waiting to put the wings on so I know how much needs cut off.

Posted: **Fri Nov 09, 2018 6:11 pm**

Hi Colin

A lot of folks seem to have issues with the military wrap hitting the frame. I know Greg just cut his off. Land rover is the only company I have ever seen that does this military wrap thing. ( It is supposed to be a safety device) if the main leaf ever breaks the military wrap would hold the spring in position.

Sure hope my new parabolics don't have this issue.

Your Rover is looking great by the way.

Victor

Posted: **Tue Nov 20, 2018 8:11 am**

Hi Again Colin

After dropping by and looking at your project last week and looking at the problem with the front military wrap on the springs you mentioned that these were 15-20 year old brand new parabolics that hade never been installed on a running rover.
At about that time frame the military wraps were manufactured with too big a loop and hit the frame, the 4 new ones I just received a month ago from Rocky mountain are fine and look to be very good heavy duty springs.

So you bringing it to the big Island Rover event in June of 2019? And by bringing it I mean in running condition not on a trailer.

Victor

Posted: **Tue Nov 20, 2018 10:03 pm**

Hi Victor, should be on the road by then I hope. The to-do list is getting shorter and shorter. I think I will just cut the wrap off. Once all that painting is done there is just a lot of electrics and hydraulic lines to install and putting it all back together. Sounds simple right?

Got a few little jobs done this past week.

Most of the accelerator linkage is installed, just need to make some hole bigger for the pedal. It was stiff at first but I gave all the parts a good oiling and now it snaps back as it should. Hand throttle works nice and smooth as well.

https://i.imgur.com/JmmOIxyl.jpg

Fixed a safety hazard. Before this wire was dangling beside the exhaust.

https://i.imgur.com/Wiu4eAMl.jpg

Both flaps are on now

https://i.imgur.com/PKdDaWSl.jpg

But the seals I bought from paddocks are JUNK, they do not even let the vent go down all the way once installed. I should've just gone with closed cell foam. Thankfully they weren't expensive.

https://i.imgur.com/TLtGBhSl.jpg

The good style of bonnet rest strip installed. Even though it does not compliment the green as much as the brown would've I'm sure it'll turn brown soon enough.

https://i.imgur.com/Z2aPMF6l.jpg

Some nice new rubber pedal pads installed.

https://i.imgur.com/4zUo7ODl.jpg

I would've got so much more done if the 110 had not demanded most of my time, the 1-year-old Panhard rod bushings which were supposed to be OEM only lasted a year, and then I had to install a winch which took much longer than anticipated.

https://i.imgur.com/AxTR3all.jpg

Posted: **Tue Nov 20, 2018 11:20 pm**

Hi Colin,
Clamp a 2 x4 across the noise flaps and the seals should settle OK.
Eric.

Posted: **Sun Nov 25, 2018 11:38 pm**

Hi Eric, you can not push it down more than halfway with the seals in place, they are too fat. I think I'll just cut up some foam from Canadian Tire if I cannot figure them out.

Helped a friend out to get his 86" up and running. we were able to take it around the block a few times for a spin. Lots of fun and very loud without an exhaust!

https://i.imgur.com/9jeEjF1l.jpg

Not much done on the 109 today, just got all three pedals installed and working smoothy. Next job will be hopefully plumbing them in!

https://i.imgur.com/YdLc3EGl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/3EogiAul.jpg

I have yet to trim the fender but that is the next job before they're painted.

Also began restoring the wiper motors now that they've turned up. There's always something about finding them in the last place you look.

Posted: **Tue Dec 04, 2018 10:15 am**

Installed the Brake Master Cylinder and Servo over the weekend. There was another hole in the booster for which I assumed was for the vacuum loss switch. But that wont fit with the current MC. I also don't have the light on the dash for it so I have just taken it out and replaced it with an 85 cent plug instead of the $20 one from roversnorth

https://i.imgur.com/8ODETW1l.jpg

With the plug installed, I'm assuming the servo is the right way round because the hose connector interferes with the Master Cylinder reservoir otherwise.

https://i.imgur.com/kdGdlkMl.jpg

Also got the brake light trigger installed. Had to free up the plate underneath with a bit of wd40 and chase the threads to get rid of the POR15 in them.

https://i.imgur.com/nU7Ql67l.jpg

Now all is left is to install the brake and clutch lines, then the hose from the intake manifold to the booster.

What sort of hose and connectors can I use on the Manifold? It looks as though the hose should be 1/4" or 3/8". Any help or suggestions would be appreciated as I haven't had much luck looking this up on the internet apart from Terrian's page on it.

Posted: **Wed Dec 05, 2018 8:50 am**

Hi Colin

Most cars I have worked on have a 1/2 inch hose from the manifold to the brake booster.

Looking good. Maybe it will be ready for founders day.
Mine wont be, still waiting for parts in the mail from the mother land, 9 weeks now.

Victor

Posted: **Mon Dec 10, 2018 7:13 pm**

Did not get around to the booster hose yet, but am getting closer.

Was going to try and paint today but other things got in the way, I did get a few other things done though. Like trimming the fender to take the proper master cylinder and servo.

https://i.imgur.com/suCbdAHl.jpg

Did not think it would turn out that nice with the tin snips but the cut is very clean.

Maybe I should go for the bare aluminum look

https://i.imgur.com/ge98gdUl.jpg

Other than that I got the clutch line installed, unfortunately I wasted $10 buying an adaptor I did not need for the line to MC. If anyone needs one let me know.

https://i.imgur.com/OxDWABZl.jpg

The line I was sent was a bit short for the way I routed it, it was designed for a series 2 but most likely there was no power booster tower in their measurements.

https://i.imgur.com/HYKYOXyl.jpg

Now I just need to properly adjust the slave cylinder, might actually have to open up the Haynes Manual for this one.

Posted: **Tue Dec 11, 2018 12:33 pm**

Great Progress! Must be good seeing her all (mostly) back together again. Wont be long now until you will get to feel the wind in your hair as you tear around the Island in the summer!

Posted: **Tue Dec 11, 2018 9:56 pm**

Thanks Andy, the project really speeds up once the bulkhead is back on! I'm very excited to experience folded down windscreen cruising. I can't wait to take it all over the island it's going to be a lot of fun!

Other than dreaming I got a bit done on the Land Rover. The fittings from the Master Cylinder to Copper line seem to be leaking. I have done them up as tight as I can but there still seems to be a bit of fluid escaping. I will check back in the morning. Also, the Slave cylinder does not seem to be pushing far enough down to engage the clutch but I think there is still some air in the lines. The pedal is rather soft but after a few pumps it gets very firm.

Then I got the hood and wings finally painted! They look very good and were so much easier to paint than the bulkhead

https://i.imgur.com/twyT9aNl.jpg

Accidentally mixed up too much bronze green and rather than dumping it out we decided to paint some rusty equipment. All that overspray just means more is protected!

https://i.imgur.com/bhVgSKtl.jpg

I think I will leave the wings in the booth until all the brake lines are bent up and in place for the extra convenience.

Posted: **Wed Dec 12, 2018 8:18 am**

Thanks for sharing your beautiful restoration.

Having fitted all new brake lines and master cylinders,and slaves cylinders, I had the same problem ,leaking from near enough every joint, I didn’t want to over tighten them. Not sure of the solution, but some suggest using a hydraulic sealant from permatex on each fitting, of course that would mean draining and re bleeding :roll:

I did anneal my new copper washers for the connections where needed.
Good luck.

Posted: **Wed Dec 12, 2018 10:17 am**

That's looking great!!

Posted: **Wed Dec 12, 2018 4:52 pm**

Hi Colin

To adjust the clutch slave cylinder do this, from underneath push the clutch release arm and the push rod up as far as you can then adjust the push rod (on the slave cylinder) so you have about 1/16th free play. Pump the clutch a couple of times and if the air is all bled out it should be adjusted correctly. Some clutch slave cylinders had a medium strength spring on them to pull the arm back up. Some later ones did not, it will work either way.

Your master cylinder may also need adjusting if the clutch will not release properly.

The clutch is very easy to bleed you should have no problems doing that. The clutch release arm should be sitting at about 3:00 O clock when the pressure starts to go on it.

Victor

Posted: **Wed Dec 12, 2018 7:57 pm**

I may have to anneal the washer that goes on the slave cylinder I did not think of that since they were new washers I assumed they were good. I may have to go pick up some of that sealant before I get too much else on.

I'll try adjusting the clutch using your method Victor. So I push the arm up which pushes the piston inside the slave cylinder to the top then I turn the nut on the pushrod to extend the pushrod so the arm sits at 3 o'clock?

I will try bleeding it again because it seems to have a delay which it shouldn't have at all.

Other than fussing over the clutch operation I got a few other odd jobs done

Refitted the standard shackles in place of the extended military ones, it now looks much better not being all crooked like before

https://i.imgur.com/eNZ6Gqbl.jpg

Tightened down all the other fittings on the installed brake lines (Some were very loose!)

https://i.imgur.com/9R91JnWl.jpg

Also trimmed the top hose but I think I still need to take a bit more off

https://i.imgur.com/kixbtDVl.jpg

Posted: **Thu Dec 13, 2018 8:09 am**

Lovely build!

One suggestion - you may want to shorten the rear brake line to remove that large curved gap over the axle. Although it will be under the frame and above the axle, it's still a prime target for branches and the like if you decide to off-road her. :x

Keep up the great work!

Posted: **Tue Jan 01, 2019 11:42 pm**

Martin, that's on my list of things to do. I need to cut the ends off and reflare them and then route them to follow the axle better. I must've ordered the wrong kit for my truck. Every single flare is a double flare when most should be bubbles. Didn't anticipate having to learn how to flare brake lines on this project but that seems to be happening.

Unfortunately, most of the Christmas break has not been spent in the shop like it should've been. I have been getting odd jobs done but these brake and clutch lines are a real pain. Hopefully the clutch line will hold fluid, I cranked down on it bionically tight and it appears to be dry on the outside, I'll find out tomorrow morning whether it is coming off for a second time. Other than that I have been practicing my flaring and painting odds and ends.

Hood release refinished in faux metal plating. Tremclad Hammered Silver, although the hammered finish seems to be missing.

https://i.imgur.com/IWzGPVCl.jpg

Speedo cable installed, had to make a retaining plate out of a washer because I didn't want to ship a new one over from England.

https://i.imgur.com/owmkWQGl.jpg

Does anyone have a photo of the routing? I don't know where it goes other than the hole in the bulkhead. At the moment it just follows along the chassis rail and then up the firewall

https://i.imgur.com/DydvvsTl.jpg

When I get frustrated with the brake lines I've been turning to easier projects like the restoration of the fancy turn signal switch. I have two of them, and both of them are incomplete. Fortunately, one can be made from two. So far I have the outer case painted and have separated the good parts from the bad ones. I also ordered a fancy wiring loom for it, which will be soldered on to the switch thingy on the bottom. Another skill I'll have to learn.

https://i.imgur.com/QTcgkTQl.jpg

May have found the reason why the transfer case was leaking excessively. Replaced it with a stud in much better condition.

https://i.imgur.com/mY4eJWTl.jpg

I get the feeling Murphy approves of the build.

https://i.imgur.com/UPairQOl.jpg

Hopefully be able to get all the brake lines installed before I got back to school on the 7th. Then onto wiring!

Posted: **Wed Jan 02, 2019 5:20 pm**

Looks great Colin. The speedo cable crosses over the main gearbox right in front of where you will attach your main head lever bracket (that odd shaped half moon plate) then it head up and into the bulkhead dash area. The only cable clips I’ve seen are on the bottom of the rear pto blanking plate and the chassis rail, other than that it just lays on top of the gearbox.

Matt

Posted: **Wed Jan 02, 2019 6:50 pm**

Hi Colin

The route for the speedo cable is as Matt says but there is a clip that holds the cable to that weird half moon shaped plate. Just a metal clip with rubber that goes onto the left side nut on that moon piece.

To get hammertone paint to do the hammertone thing you have to spray it on twice as thick as normal spray paint, then it runs if you are un-lucky it is a real art to make it do its thing.

Looking good. Victor

Posted: **Thu Jan 03, 2019 11:19 am**

Colin,

If you go back to tidy up the rear axle brake lines note that the junction block should sit behind the bracket and not above it.

Regards,
John

Posted: **Fri Jan 04, 2019 7:00 pm**

Hi Guys, so far this is how I've got cable routed. I think I may change the place the clip on the chassis rail is attached to so I can undo it if necessary instead of being underneath the seatbox.

https://i.imgur.com/ijzyH6jl.jpg

Other than that I got most of the brake lines correctly flared and took apart the starter which has turned into a bad idea. I broke one of the brush springs so I will have to take it apart more before it can go back together and put it back on the vehicle. I shouldn't have taken it apart.

Also polished the headlight bezels, they came out quite nicely considering they're original.

https://i.imgur.com/8f7oLbdl.jpg

I'm also having issues bleeding the clutch, there must be an air pocket stuck somewhere. I can pump the clutch and build up the pressure and then I can change gears as I should be able to so I think that's a telltale sign of air in the system. Good news is that I haven't seen any leaks today.

I adjusted the pedal height and master cylinder play and it all seems proper, the only one I haven't set right is the operating linkage play, not really sure how to gauge that.

Posted: **Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:58 am**

Hi Colin

There is no clip for the speedo cable on top of the frame rail, just on that half moon shaped access plate by the main gear shift lever attachment spot and by the speedo drive attachment into the transmission.

The place I found on the Island to get those tiny coiled brush springs for the starter was the starter shop across the highway from the Nanaimo airport. He had then they were about $5.00 each and you may as well change them all if you look closely at them they will probably be rusty and also ready to break. Note you should bring the old ones with you when you go as there are many different kinds and shapes. I might be going by there this coming week and could stop and get you some.
Or you could try the starter shop near downtown Victoria he may have them if you take you in to match up, your down there anyway.

Looking good.

Victor

Posted: **Mon Jan 07, 2019 11:08 pm**

Hi Victor, brought the starter down with me, I will try and find a shop. Any suggestions?

Now back to school progress will slow even more. But did some more destruction than construction over the weekend while bending brake lines.

https://i.imgur.com/G4f0HB9l.jpg

Bent up the lefthand side, it may have been slightly kinked in the process but I hope it works out. This is the only route I could find that could work, it doesn't hit the radiator at all.

https://i.imgur.com/Eouvuq8l.jpg

Righthand side bent up. I decided to go underneath the frame rail because I think that's how it's done on the Series 3 lines.

https://i.imgur.com/H3F4Z7il.jpg

Both lines match up equally at a tee piece below the air cleaner, where I will hold it down with a roofing screw or something more elaborate like the original way it was held down.

https://i.imgur.com/WMLSqm3l.jpg

All back to normal held down by push down clips that came with the kit.

https://i.imgur.com/4moRIrcl.jpg

Then bent the lines across the bulkhead. Bit of a pain so they look quite messy but they're done.

https://i.imgur.com/o0fOGlEl.jpg

Posted: **Mon Jan 14, 2019 10:12 am**

Cleaned up the lines on the rear axle, they look much smarter now.

https://i.imgur.com/ZPfFqyql.jpg

Ran the brake line to the back axle and then hooked it up to the line from the MC using a connector since I don't have the special valve thing.

https://i.imgur.com/1i1i0Vhl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/SpiMlL3l.jpg

Then made another line for the front system to the MC, it was about a foot long but I don't have a photo.

After that I got the whole system bled with my Dad, now we just need to solve a few leaks here and there but nothing too major thankfully.

One more job pretty much done, now onto spraying more and more parts and the electrics!

Posted: **Sun Jan 20, 2019 11:04 pm**

So far so good! No leaks as far as I can tell on the braking system but I'll find out if any are hiding after the initial test drive.

Got the turn signal restoration finished this weekend. I'll have to test the circuit again to make sure everything is right, we soldered on the wires where they were suppose to be but I fear we "let the smoke out" of the switch.

https://i.imgur.com/lHyPu7Jl.jpg

Also picked up some nice fancy Exmoor trim from Matt on Thursday. I hope they are comfortable. I got everything I need to restore the interior. A full set of elephant hide grey seats and door trim as well as a hardura kit for the transmission tunnel and seatbox. I am going to make my own floor mats.

https://i.imgur.com/99HyOz2l.jpg

The last thing I got done was tapping threads into the bulkhead to hold the distributor on, beforehand it had two screws that would never stay tight. This is much nicer and actually holds everything steady. They have period incorrect heads on the bolts which bothers me a bit.

https://i.imgur.com/FgGVVxYl.jpg

Posted: **Sun Jan 27, 2019 9:34 pm**

Not much done on the Rover this weekend. Sorted out a brake line that was leaking, hopefully re flaring it cured the leak but it may need more work.

Other than that little job I picked up some Rocky Mountain Doortops. First thing I did was take them apart so they can be painted. It was very quick and easy, just three screws and the glass popped out, then I masked the rest of the rubber since it was glued in as far as I could tell.

All in bits in the spare room

https://i.imgur.com/RUXFG4Cl.jpg

Masked and put aside for painting.

https://i.imgur.com/AB7frZWl.jpg

Hopefully next weekend I will be able to paint them along with the doors and everything else.

Posted: **Sat Feb 02, 2019 11:02 pm**

A few odd jobs done this weekend, was planning on painting the doors and seatbox area but with the forecast calling for snow I thought it would be best to leave it for a few weeks and let the weather improve. Now that I've also improved my painting skills I'm going to start painting bits on the 110 like some new wheels and door hinges. I've found a safe place to store my painted parts it is nice having peace of mind that they won't be run into by a tractor or have hay bales drop on them.

I picked up a starter a few weeks back from Matt and it didn't work very well we tried to get it going with no luck. I took it in to Brian Roberts Electric in Victoria and they did a fantastic job I'm very pleased. Here it is after picking it up. I didn't expect them to paint it but I'm very glad they did. Before being an ex-mod starter it was rusty and green, now it looks like it belongs on a civilian rover.

https://i.imgur.com/eFXfsXql.jpg

I installed it on Thursday night and it turns over nice and fast as it should. I lubed all the connections liberally with dielectric grease.

https://i.imgur.com/daZWCtgl.jpg

I was waiting patiently for the starter to be rebuilt so I could install the exhaust, I didn't see any room to squeeze the starter in beside the pipe so I didn't want to get ahead of myself.

Since this Series 3 exhaust runs really close to the floor and gearbox I thought it would be a good idea to wrap it in the stuff you wrap exhausts in. Don't really know what to call it. It is very pricey online but I found it very cheap in a small marine store in Cowichan Bay (Thanks for the tip Victor). About half the price compared to anywhere else. When I got back home I opened up the package and threw it in some water to keep the dust down its not nice stuff to deal with. I was able to wrap most of the downpipe with 100 feet of the stuff. Here it is installed.

A view from the gearbox

https://i.imgur.com/MZCZaK1l.jpg

Underneath the frame, not sure if that needs to be wrapped but it is. I wrapped it in the engine bay as well as you can see. That should keep everything cooler in there as well. Overall I think this was a worthwhile job that doesn't take that long and should improve comfort on those hot days spent in the cab on long summer expeditions and those long days being put to good use on the farm.

https://i.imgur.com/6w7N9Zql.jpg

Posted: **Sun Feb 03, 2019 9:21 am**

That lagging is going to pay off big time in the summer! I've used it to wrap boat exhaust and truck headers, the difference it makes is huge. After awhile it loses the bright white colour, and starts to look like a bandage from the civil war. It's great stuff.
Did you just secure the ends with some stainless hoseclamps? For posh stuff, I used to cut a bit of copper water pipe, slit it down the length, then smash it in the vice with the lagging in it to make a little envelope for the fraying edge. Then clamp it. Looks more steampunk.

Posted: **Sun Feb 03, 2019 11:11 am**

Re exhaust pipe wrap. If you plan on running in wet weather or through ponds/mud holes, make sure you run the vehicle for a while afterwards to fully dry out the wrap as it holds water and will drastically increase rust over time. Most people only use it in enclosed areas or the header pipes. The further from the engine, the lower the pipe temp and longer to dry out.

Just my 2 cents. :roll:

M.

Posted: **Mon Feb 04, 2019 11:41 am**

Hi Martin and Chris, I was also worried about the exhaust wrap accelerating rust, I'm thinking I'll just cut it off where it goes underneath the frame to stop it from soaking up so much water. I can always take it off it becomes a problem once I get the truck on the road. The parts I cut off I will probably just wrap farther down the pipe so I can fully insulate underneath the seatbox.

Posted: **Mon Feb 04, 2019 3:55 pm**

Under the truck, you want heat shields. Don't wrap it.

Posted: **Sun Feb 17, 2019 7:41 pm**

Got a few things checked off the list this weekend. It's very rewarding seeing the list shrinking. Should be ready for June for the island rally I hope! I was hoping to get it to founders day but that's less than two months away. One of my main hold-ups has been the weather, I didn't anticipate this snow when I was hoping to paint!

The exhaust is fully bolted in and mounted, I had to drill and tap a few holes into the frame and modify a few hangers but other than that the whole system fits really well! I decided to leave the wrap on for the moment but may take it off if it causes issues in the future.

Here you can see the full system bolted in as well as the fuel tank. I used the britpart mounting kit but was able to only use 1 of the rubber spacers since there was no room for 2 on the one big bolt. This may be caused by the slight bend in the outrigger on the frame.

https://i.imgur.com/cNW7QS4l.jpg

Now I just need to plumb in the fuel line, I found some fixings that work for the system so I'll just buy some rubber line and fasten it to the top of the frame.

Next on the list of things to do was "restore" the gauges. I ended up just painting the bezels and cleaning the glass for the moment. They look much better than before that's for sure.

Before

https://i.imgur.com/XMskrNSl.jpg?1

After

https://i.imgur.com/WgImA6Bl.jpg

I'm not sure if the speedo works but if it doesn't I'll be replacing it with a kilometers per hour gauge.

I also got the vacuum line for the power brakes installed with the help of my father. We drilled and tapped the inlet manifold with a greased drill bit and tap to keep the shavings from going into the inlet. Here it is installed. I was going to use a proper power brake era manifold but those plans went south when it cracked after trying to separate it from the exhaust manifold.

https://i.imgur.com/piXaaWhl.jpg

There are a few kinks that need working out like adjusting the brakes, plumbing the heater and replacing the new slave cylinder, but there really isn't much more mechanical work to do. Hopefully this week I'll get started on installing the main wiring loom into the truck which may take quite some time.

Posted: **Mon Feb 18, 2019 6:51 am**

cbalme wrote: Sun Feb 17, 2019 7:41 pm I'm not sure if the speedo works but if it doesn't I'll be replacing it with a kilometers per hour gauge.

Stick something in the drive and spin. It does not take much for the needle to move.

Posted: **Wed Feb 20, 2019 8:13 pm**

Tested out my speedo and it works as should, thanks Red90 and Matt for the advice. A Robertson bit on a drill running in reverse works quite nicely.

Been busy the past few days with Rover related activities, still waiting for a week's worth of good weather to get some proper painting done. Hopefully, I will start installing the main wiring loom on Friday. Tomorrow I will hopefully get the loom through the frame rail.

Put some new hose fittings on the block so I can run a heater as well as picked up the heater hose, fuel line, and fuel tank breather line for the 109. Getting closer to fitting everything in the engine bay and making sure it's all neat and tidy. At the moment it seems quite cluttered and messy.

https://i.imgur.com/xk6Ib6Xl.jpg

Here is my routing for the fuel system. It's held down by 4 hose clamps along the frame rail which is a bit excessive.

https://i.imgur.com/MvTCdvJl.jpg

Also dug out the Trim retainers for the original hardura matting, Not sure if I need them but I will know where they are just in case.

Posted: **Wed Feb 20, 2019 11:24 pm**

Excellent progress Colin, those gauges came out great.
:spinning:

Can you click a couple of photos of the whole vehicle, it would be good to see everything you have done so far all in one shot.
It may also give me some inspiration to get busier on mine :roll:

Posted: **Thu Feb 21, 2019 9:55 pm**

Hi Andy here are those photos, maybe while you look for your pistons you can restore your gauges too!

Taken from the roof rack of the 110

https://i.imgur.com/05FqbRJl.jpg

Here's a better shot from the side. I have most of the engine bay complete I am leaving the wings off until everything is done I don't like reaching into the bay

https://i.imgur.com/JbnM6a7l.jpg

Another side shot, excuse the cluttered shop I have to share it with the farm!

https://i.imgur.com/qfFd1mxl.jpg

Here's a reminder of what it used to look like, quite the difference in 3 years.

https://i.imgur.com/WhmGEOJl.jpg

I got distracted by other things today so not much progress, I did get the wiring loom labeled and back into its bag for installation tomorrow. There are a few wires which have unknown purposes but I'll find out what they're for soon enough.

Posted: **Thu Feb 21, 2019 10:15 pm**

I like the before picture, should have left it like that and just drove it lol 😂 😜

Posted: **Thu Feb 21, 2019 11:23 pm**

Yes I do look at that photo every now and then and think about what could've been. But the engine was seized along with the gearbox. A lot of other things on it had been farmer fixed to keep it going. It would've had a nice patina with a good used engine, gearbox, new wiring harness, brake, clutch, and steering overhaul but then it would be in it's current state without a paint job.

Maybe I'll keep the patina look if I do another truck.

Posted: **Fri Feb 22, 2019 9:01 am**

Looks awesome with the new Bronze Green paint on it. Have fun wiring today. I’m around the shop today if you have any wire questions.

Matt

Posted: **Fri Feb 22, 2019 11:33 pm**

Got quite a bit of wiring done today, or at least got it in place. No sparks today but that is because the dash panel isn't ready.

Here's a closeup of the loom into the firewall. Not much to see but really there aren't that many wires. Had to make the holes into the firewall a little bigger the hole is really tight.

https://i.imgur.com/ubtSzmnl.jpg

Unfortunately, Autosparks doesn't realize that there's a difference between RHD and LHD headlight wiring on Series 2s so there will have to be some minor modification to make the whole lot work properly. They have wired the dipswitch circuit so it sits at the right-hand footwell, nowhere near where it should be on a left-hand drive. Other than that the loom is very high quality. I just need to change some connectors because I am not using some Series 2 electrical components like the light switch/key thing. My restore version has spade connectors whereas the loom has eyelets. It shouldn't take very long to change the ends over and heat shrink the whole lot. Another thing that needs changed is the brake light switch wiring since I have the power booster not the hydraulic switch, that is not a very big deal.

A lot of loose wires were not in the bag as well that I expected to come. I had to make a coil to distributor wire because they only had the positive feed to the coil installed. It was also lacking a lot of the joins for the bullet connectors. Luckily I had saved quite a few from the old truck but I may need more.

https://i.imgur.com/zas4jQel.jpg

Overall it's coming along quite nicely, once the gauge panel is restored we can actually see if it all works! We also sorted out the clutch today, but reversed all that progress when I broke the flare nut off. Looks like this is what I'll be spending my Saturday on.

https://i.imgur.com/C0ArDpzl.jpg

Posted: **Sat Feb 23, 2019 10:55 pm**

Hey Colin,

Thanks for posting the wide angle photos, she's looking sexy in green! :bounce:
I also have the Autosparks loom so I will be watching closely ....

Posted: **Mon Feb 25, 2019 12:28 am**

Hi Andy, the autosparks loom is pretty much right other than the headlight wiring. If you have not yet ordered it maybe ask to make sure the loom extends to the dipswitch position for a LHD. It is not a big deal to modify as long as you get some hockey tape for the period correct look.

Not much was done this weekend, I did pick up a few parts from Victor, like a fuse box and longer clutch pushrod. Victor is also helping me install the loom without his help the installation would be very slow.

Here is the Fusebox installed waiting for wiring and fuses. I am going to get 15 amp fuses since there is no such thing as a 17 amp fuse (what the parts guy told me) which is the equivalent to an English 35 amp fuse. I put this box in because I don't need the voltage regulator so I have room for a two fuse box instead of one! Quite the improvement.

https://i.imgur.com/NtseYNRl.jpg

In the future I may install a 12 fuse box to run accessories for a Boat. I think I could get away with running a wire directly from the starter switch to it for power but that's a while until I worry about that.

Other than the fuse block I got an extended pushrod for the clutch which should solve my issue I am hoping once I get a new master cylinder installed. Here you can see the half inch difference which is hopefully enough, otherwise I get to fabricate a new one out of rod which I don't really want to do.

https://i.imgur.com/iJtWLNHl.jpg

I also tried to change the U-Joints on the propshaft today but the joints they gave me are too wide for the yolks on a 109. So I will have to find some narrower ones locally.

Posted: **Mon Feb 25, 2019 9:14 am**

I wonder what kind of u-joints you have.

U-joints locally are:

Series 1 & 2s:
RTC3690 - Precision 344 / Neapco 1-0005 - 1.063 In. Bearing Cup Diameter, 2.938 In. wide

Series 2A & 3s:
RTC3346 - Precision 369 / Neapco 1-0153 - 1.063 In. Bearing Cup Diameter, 3.219 In. wide

Posted: **Mon Feb 25, 2019 10:08 am**

Hi Martin, what I got is Moog 344 which I think is also the precision 344. It is a hair too wide installed at the moment you cannot move the joint.

As far as I know I have a Series 2 propshaft but someone may have switched it to a 2A prop at some point in it's life. My Dad is going to go shopping at the tractor store and they will get him the right one I think. It just needs to be a hair narrower.

Looking at your numbers it should work it is the narrower u joint but we will see what they can find at the parts store.

Posted: **Mon Feb 25, 2019 12:22 pm**

The Federal-Mogul site shows Moog 344 as:

https://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/part-d ... brandId=MU

So it should be correct, except note their description:

"Bearing cup ground slightly oversized to fit in a used driveshaft"

It might be the right model #, but your driveshaft may not be "used enough". :bounce:

I'd measure your Bearing Cup Diameter, 2.938" (74.6 mm) vs 3.219" (81.8 mm) to be sure.

Posted: **Mon Feb 25, 2019 1:55 pm**

Hi Martin, the cups fit fine they are just too deep and squish the joint against the top of the caps. I guess my driveshaft is "worn" enough. I am away from my Land Rover until thursday so I will measure them then.

Another possibility is to just file the ends off of the joints just slightly. But that's a last resort I think.

The Rover-Landers of BC

Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

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