The Rover-Landers of BC

OK at the risk of getting people excited....(this based on passionate opinions read elsewhere)....

Many years ago I drove a Series 2A 88 (not mine) briefly, which had freewheeling hubs installed on both front and rear axles. The owner told me this was done to enable the Land Rover to be towed on a towbar easily (behind a motor home I believe) with the entire drive train disconnected from the wheels.

I also recall there is a placard in the vehicle or a note in the manual (from my old '74 Series 3) that when the Land Rover is to be towed, to select Neutral on the transfer case and I believe third or fourth gear on the main transmission...don't recall if there was a speed restriction.....

Now many years later, I find myself rebuilding a Series 2A, and in posession of 4 freewheling hubs....the mind wanders....

...and yes I understand the philosophy of running the hubs locked for some kilometres every month, and I can see the point of those who argue that the freewheeling hubs on the front axle are unneccessary in the first place since the fuel and wear savings are minimal.

But in the scenario where one may want to regularly tow the Land Rover, what do you folks think of the idea of having the hubs on the rear axle as well as the front? Is there any issue of strength to consider? Anything else other than being careful that mischeivous hands have not tampered with the hub setting while the vehicle is unattended?

I think the biggest worry is reliability of the hubs. Some brands are better than others.

I would think adding hubs to the rear axle would introduce another weak point in the drive train. Your better off putting the tranfer case in neutral and the gearbox in 4th as stated on the data plate screwed to the firewall. If your planning to tow a vehicle so often that your contemplating modifying it you need to ask yourself is it worth bringing the vehicle with you? Or buy a car hauling trailer and leave the truck as is.

Matt

If you look inside your hubs, you might not be happy with the size of the elements bearing the torque. I suppose you could always keep a couple drive plates in the car in case the hub grenaded, and a lot easier to swap a hub and drive plate than another element in the axle, as long as the hub doesn't take something else with it.

swamijake wrote:If you look inside your hubs, you might not be happy with the size of the elements bearing the torque. I suppose you could always keep a couple drive plates in the car in case the hub grenaded, and a lot easier to swap a hub and drive plate than another element in the axle, as long as the hub doesn't take something else with it.

Does that not depend on the brand of hubs?

Absolutely. I have two sets at home, and taken apart the selectro hubs have all the force going through a few small tabs. Not ideal. I'm sure other design's are different, but taking them apart and looking at what material will be bearing the load is worth while.

Hello, Don't do it. All FWH's were only designed to take 50% power load. In Series vehicles when selecting 4X4, 50% of the power is transferred to the front axle and 50% goes to the rear axle. In 2WD 100% of the power is directed to the back axle. It would make your Land Rover quite unreliable. Steven.

Sounds like the consensus is to not do it - makes sense, all good points made.

Particularly interesting is the point about the FWH design being to take 50% of the load - even in 4WD, one would expect that under some off road loading conditions, or in slippery on-road situations like snow and ice, the front wheels would be at least momentarily subjected to heavier than 50% load from time to time as the rears spin and the fronts grip. Does anyone know if that design target is published somewhere?

All 4 of the hubs I have are the Warn type which I don't believe are made any more, they are the same as what was on my old '74 (installed as an option from the factory I believe), but I won't be adding them to the rear axle - it will be good to have a couple of spares in any case.

Thanks all!

If a quality hub is used, like a Warn, this should be no problem. It's not uncommon to see rock crawlers with far more power and far larger tires use FWH on the rear. Regarding the hub strength, when the last time you saw a FWH fail as opposed to an LR axle shaft? The hub is not the weak link. If you're concerned, you could carry a standard drive flange with you as a spare, just in case. If flat towing, I think it would be nice to be able to completely disconnect the drivetrain. I would go for it.

Thanks Doc Tari - now you've got me thinking about it again...