The Rover-Landers of BC

Hi,

My name is Don and I've always had a soft spot for Land Rover's, mostly the Defender. When I first saw one in action, I knew I had to get one but when I found out Defender prices, the interest died down.

It was still there but not as pronounced until recently.

I was browsing around, searching random ads and here it was, not a Defender, but a Land Rover nonetheless.

For 40 years old, it was 85k miles so that's pretty good so I definitely had to check it out and see.

Did the appropriate research and found that these have aluminum panels and a steel chassis so that was my main thing to watch out for.

First saw it, it was awesome. No chassis rust, leaks like all Rover's do but not much, and runs rough because it's been sitting for a while.

He drove me around and bam, bought it after.

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Plan to restore it enough to do some trails for now and we'll see where he takes me. I'd love to go on a long-term expedition with the LR but have to dependable first.

The former owner calls him 'Garth' so I'll continue the tradition.

---

So after buying Garth, I immediately got him insured and registered.

Insurance had trouble finding the car in the database and double-checked the short VIN but got it registered! She said to have fun because you're gonna need it. :rofl:

After that, it is off to safety inspection:

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Other than few minor issues and the necessity of a new muffler, Garth is safe enough to be considered roadworthy. :thumbsup:

So in the back, it came with:

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- Random bolts
- Rear seats
- Roll cage
- Soft top
- Tailgate
- Jack
- 40 years of random dust, dirt, crap, etc.

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Man up!

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Interior shots

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Couldn't figure out this funk that the truck had and when I was vacuuming, I found it. It was a dead robin wedged in the seat.

After I got that out and aired it, no more stank!

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The 2.25L petrol engine with a Weber carb and working electrics. SCORE.

Nothing like Spray Nine and WD40 to clean things up.

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Installed the bench seats after and will make the left ones.

So the truck right off the bat, runs rough. Idles rougher than a tractor engine should, felt like it didn't get enough air, and the timing was off.

So time for a tune-up!

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Spark plugs make a BIG difference. FACT.

TRS (The Rover Shop) was closed so no oil change yet as I'd like to replace the gasket in the oilpan as well.

Cleaned the undercarriage with this stuff (also added Lucas Fuel Treatment in the tank):

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The results speak for themselves:

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Also bought an oilpan gasket, service manual, and upgraded coil/electronic ignition for a better spark. The Rover Shop Calgary recommended to do this mod to go with the oil change as a must-do modification to make life easier.

I also upgraded the horn to twins as the old one was pathetic. GTFO, bitches! :thumbsup:

On that note, hope my build thread will bring joy to people and possibly assistance when I need it, because I will.

Also, what have you noticed in my pictures that aren't original, other than the twin choke carb?

Oil change was completed while I was gone and leakage is gone for now!

Back from vacation and immediately went to my Rover store to get more parts!:

- Original tail lights assembly
- Speedo cable
- Rear door lock
- Brake fluid cap

Ordered the side markers, amber lights, and will be on the lookout to see if I can fix the reverse lights. License plate light works after cleaning the contact points.

Any ideas on how to fit a Weber carb snorkel? Was thinking a custom airbox then a random kit to fit it together...

Will be doing a brake fluid flush and cleaning that bracket as mentioned by JBriggs over the weekend as the coolant fluid was replaced yesterday. Still waiting for ze muffler!

---

Returned the electronic ignition and put the points system back on but kept the new coil. Running majestically now!

Random question but anyone know the fuel tank capacity on these things?

EDIT:

Here's the front axle.

The left swivel joint leaks and there's a weird bracket for what looks to be a stabilizer... Not sure yet:

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Gearbox and diff oil has been replaced! Just needs new gaskets and filler plugs to make things less leaky. Looking good, Garth!

Today was removing a rust contaminated side step and sprayed the left swivel joint with GUNK.

Used a whole can and elbow grease,

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30 years of sludge right there.

It looks relatively clean after...

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Must open past the swivel gaiter to see how the ball joint is doing. Pretty clean from the last picture, I must say.

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New brass plugs for the diff were put on today and a gearbox gasket to be fitted over the weekend. This is what the old ones looked like,

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Hit a minor issue today.

So I finally(!) got the new exhaust system from Britain:

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I love hatchbacks. :love:

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Removed the old system out today. Bolts got too rusty so we just ground it out using a grinder and snapped it out.

However, fitment looks snug...

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Not really 'snug'; 'tight'. It bolts on like it should but the bend is off...

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Also, one of the bolts won't lock so hit a snag and will continue on the weekend.

---

Well, my dad helped me out today and he just say, 'forget it' and just bolted it on. The muffler is installed, rattles against the chassis but whatever.

The engine is tractor-y enough to cover muffler rattle. :rofl:

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Next up is the swivel balls, exterior lights that were bought, gearbox gasket, and figure out why it's leaning to the left side.

We're having a debate on whether it's the shocks or the leaf springs that are the culprit.

Also, 235/80/16 rubs against the chassis when turning right but not left. Steering alignment perhaps or the tires are just too big?

Bought Prestone synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid for a possible flush tomorrow. Is this sufficient? It's the only fluid available.

-----

Sunday was interesting, indeedy!

Random thing found today: a block heater! Don't know if it works yet...

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Cleaned the undercarriage somewhat with Spray Nine and pressure washing.

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Swivel joint inspection time!:

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So we started adding swivel grease in to find out where it leaked and it wasn't hard to find it :rofl:. The grease pushed out this watered down oil mixture so it was like a flush on its own :

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Ball joint looks pristine!

The leather gaiter doesn't have holes or tears but it was just poor installation from the previous owner. Refolded the leather, tightened the bolts and the leak subsided from 'gushing' to 'drip'.

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The right one wasn't leaking because it was bone dry. Used leftover grease to start pushing out the old oil and the leak is in the same spot!

Same deal; readjust the leather gaiter and it's less leaky.

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Exterior lights were also replaced:

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Looking good! Brake fluid flush and gearbox gasket were not addressed but there's always another day. :thumbsup:

----

Received my oil analysis from Blackstone Laboratories on the original oil before the change to Pennzoil High Mileage 5W30:

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Good start to the weekend!

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Cleaned the air filter but sourcing out the original oil bath air filter.

Meanwhile, the gearbox got a new gasket mounted:

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CB antenna is mounted now with an aluminum extension:

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Enjoyed the best upgrade so far:

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So relaxing to drive now! :clap:

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This is a Series IIA, with a lot of mods to list.

Met up with someone from the Alberta Land Rover Enthusiasts (ALRE) Club and passed on words of wisdom. For example, he informed me that my engine is more than likely a military rebuild, the leaf springs will always lean and just need spray graphite, how to change the main gear with just 6 screws, and how he custom machined his fuel tank for 120L!

I am a wiser man today.

EDIT: Also put new speedo cable in but still dances so definitely needs a new speedometer but really, my smartphone can do it for me and that's how I found out my top speed is 97kph lol.

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These are for next week; more gear oil for the overdrive, swivel joint grease, and new engine/gearbox mounts.

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I learnt a trick from a fellow Land Rover enthusiast on how to prolong the life of leaf springs; spray graphite!

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Before spray graphite...

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After spray graphite. Made sure the lubricant wicked its' way in-between the leaves.

My LR Series is a North American version so the hardest parts to replace are those huge amber lights. Light guards are now installed!

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The rear ones are also huge so the stock tail guards won't fit so I spliced one of the front guards in half.

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Left hub is leaking. UGH.

And last-minute mods...

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I'll be installing jate rings next week as that's the proper device and I'll leave them there for now.

Went off-roading for the first time ever today to Waiparous Trail with buddies.

Garth went through the trail with ease but we didn't continue past the meadow because the mud got way too soft,

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High range and low range works well and after going through my first run, I don't feel like I need any more mods; just maintenance and recovery prep gear. When I went through, I didn't feel like I needed lockers or a winch but then again, it was an easy trail.

The Land Rover went through the mud with ease thanks to the tires and I'll probably just get another set of wheels/tires for winter if these suck in the cold.

A jerry can will solve my small fuel tank issue and other than that, he's good to go!

Pressure washed the truck after the run so no mud will stick but the WD40/graphite grease I sprayed yesterday worked wonders:

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It was raining hard but it calmed down a bit after:

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Here's a video of Garth in action:

http://s113.photobucket.com/user/dj_fli ... 2.mp4.html

Party on, Garth!

So I went to my local 4WD parts store to get advice on where to put front recovery points.

The best option that they had for me was a suggestion to fabricate a beefier bumper to support that much force. Still unsure of what to do but the tie-downs are the best last-resort option I have right now,

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Bought a rear recovery hitch for the back,

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Also went to pick up a vintage plate I bought locally,

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Garth was driving fine and literally, 200m away from my house, the transmission just went 'clunk' and disengaged in the middle of the street. :cry: :banghead:

Nothing fell out, no BIG leaks, so must be an internal issue and I can't open it up right now since it's dark.

Thankfully, locking hubs and 4WD high range still worked. Drove it in 2WD front safely.


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Picking up the bits and pieces of the carnage inside. It's not the diff teeth but the shaft.

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Closer look at the Weber twin choke.

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Weird adaptor-welding contraption going on here.

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So we found a fuel pump...

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That leads to a reservoir that feeds the carburetor but have no idea if it's pumping fuel or not.

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Does this serial # mean anything? Tried looking to determine if it's a 3 or 5-bearing 2.25L but no serial # near the exhaust port....

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Behold the Fairey OD!

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Dry as a bone.

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There's this crescent-shapped nut in the picture above that can feely move and it's leaking oil. What is it?

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Meanwhile, transmission mounts are on and engine mounts are next.

Happy weekend for Team Garth!

The axle shafts are in, put new diff oil in, new gaskets, and he's rolling.

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Moved in 2WD = GARTH IS ALIVE AGAIN!

Previous owner was lazy though and put a random bolt instead of the original one so one has bigger threads. Planning to replace all flange bolts.

To celebrate the momentous occasion, new steering damper is in.

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Took off the old mudguard brackets that the previous owner left to rot. You know how hard it is to get 30 years of rusted bolts off?! Dremel; crowbar; hammer; repeat.

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New mudflaps are now on and tomorrow will continue with new side mirrors, and the weekend will be a brake fluid flush & more goodies to be installed!

Excellent job of logging your progress, keep it going ....

Very nice looking Land Rover,

Cheers,
Andy

ANDYD wrote:Excellent job of logging your progress, keep it going ....

Very nice looking Land Rover,

Cheers,
Andy

Thanks, Andy. He is a work in progress and this thread will be an adventure, that's for sure. :alien:

You have a 3 bearing 2.25

On the 5 bearing the oil filler cap is on the front top of the rocker cover, whereas on the 3 Bearing the oil filler is a long tube with cap on the side like yours.

Dave_F wrote:You have a 3 bearing 2.25

On the 5 bearing the oil filler cap is on the front top of the rocker cover, whereas on the 3 Bearing the oil filler is a long tube with cap on the side like yours.

Thanks, Dave. Can you uncover more secrets that lies beneath based on the pictures?

I'd love to learn more about it if you have any more info to share.

Check out my site...below

Recommendations...

Grease your drive shaft u-joints...and every time you do any sort of water crossings...these dry out and fail fairly quickly.

Ditch the old points and go electronic with something like Petronix...I did mine and never had another issue with timing. Keep the original points in the truck...just in case.

Use 15w40 for your oil changes (diesel oil)...your engine is old (albiet rebuilt) and will run well on this. if you're smoking at all, change the valve seals...these fail over time and result in blue smoke on startup and when decelerating down hills.

Clean the frame and keep it painted.

Lots more but this should keep you busy for a while. :lol:

Dave_F wrote:Check out my site...below

Recommendations...

Grease your drive shaft u-joints...and every time you do any sort of water crossings...these dry out and fail fairly quickly.

Ditch the old points and go electronic with something like Petronix...I did mine and never had another issue with timing. Keep the original points in the truck...just in case.

Use 15w40 for your oil changes (diesel oil)...your engine is old (albiet rebuilt) and will run well on this. if you're smoking at all, change the valve seals...these fail over time and result in blue smoke on startup and when decelerating down hills.

Clean the frame and keep it painted.

Lots more but this should keep you busy for a while. :lol:

I'll grease up the U-joints as pictured:

http://www.importandvintage.com/_/rsrc/ ... -large.jpg

I tried the electronic ignition route but the engine did not like it; kept stalling and choking out. The points ran well with it.

As for 15W40, how hard will it be during winter? I got 5W30 because of the winter usage.

If worried about winter then use a 5W40 diesel engine oil. Wait for Rotella to be on sale at Crappy Tire.

What's the rationale with using diesel oil in a petrol car? Is it for an engine flush or are you suggesting to use it as replacement to run regularly?

flipstah wrote:
I'll grease up the U-joints as pictured:

http://www.importandvintage.com/_/rsrc/ ... -large.jpg

I tried the electronic ignition route but the engine did not like it; kept stalling and choking out. The points ran well with it.

As for 15W40, how hard will it be during winter? I got 5W30 because of the winter usage.

Uhh, do my eyes deceive me? I don't think grease is going to help that u-joint any. :(

DBrands wrote:

flipstah wrote:
I'll grease up the U-joints as pictured:

http://www.importandvintage.com/_/rsrc/ ... -large.jpg

I tried the electronic ignition route but the engine did not like it; kept stalling and choking out. The points ran well with it.

As for 15W40, how hard will it be during winter? I got 5W30 because of the winter usage.

Uhh, do my eyes deceive me? I don't think grease is going to help that u-joint any. :(

That's not mine haha. That's a generic Google picture of what a U-joint looks like.

I have a spare air filter assembly if your interested. It had a couple small pin holes in the bottom cup where the oil goes so I patched it with JB Weld, other then that it's in good shape.

This is Kirk Hillman's truck, also one of my old trucks.

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Headdamage, I think if it were me I'd mount a second set of headlights into those open holes. Eliminate the need to mount AUX lights on your bumper :D

flipstah wrote:What's the rationale with using diesel oil in a petrol car? Is it for an engine flush or are you suggesting to use it as replacement to run regularly?

It contains higher levels of additives which are better for preventing wear on older engine designs. It should be run all of the time.

Strange Rover wrote:Headdamage, I think if it were me I'd mount a second set of headlights into those open holes. Eliminate the need to mount AUX lights on your bumper :D

The SBC needs all of the cooling it can get.

Some musings I learnt over the weekend:

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Took Garth out from Calgary to Edmonton on Friday night and this was my first long drive on the Land Rover.

It can do 115kph but it's at the price of your eardrums. 90kph is adequate. I can also do Calgary to Red Deer (~146km) in half a tank (~22.5L), giving me a mileage of ~15MPG!

Using downhill momentum to get to the other side works wonders!

My heater works well, thankfully and on Saturday, I learnt through other LR oweners that I need to work on approach, techniques, and knowing the LR's limitations. It was a fun run with the Alberta Land Rover Enthusiasts (ALRE)!

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Sunday was McLean Creek and rock crawl is fun! There was a rockshelf I wanted to try but there wasn't enough power in that 2.25L petrol engine to get me up. :cry:

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The view more than made it up for it. :thumbsup:

I'll post videos up once I've edited them because the engine vibrated so much :rofl:

Also, I've added some more mods before the trip which included, better recovery points at the front and bigger side mirrors.

Nice to see you're having fun with Garth and that the ALRE guys are helping you familiarize you with the Land-Rover's idiosyncrasies.

Here are more pics from our McLean trip:

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What happens before we start? My battery dies. :rofl:

Boosted, I'm good to go again! :thumbsup:

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The rock shelf.

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I could clear but not enough power in the 2.25L petrol to get Garth all the way up! After trying out various paths, he couldn't make it up. Kept stalling on the second step.

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The descent. The right side is all cliff. :eek:

Thought I'd get wet:

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Bad idea. That took me an hour to clean on the INSIDE and out.

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Got new oil to try out on Garth: 15W40 Rotella T and new back seats from The Rover Shop Calgary.

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New heavy duty battery from Interstate as the old one was too small. Through voltmeter testing, we found out that the alternator wasn't efficient enough when all of the electrics were on. Time to check out better options.

Here's a video of my failternator in action:

http://s113.photobucket.com/user/dj_fli ... 5.mp4.html

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Rotella T 15W40 is in! Will see how that runs.

Who needs a minivan when you have a 7-seater right here?! Got the essentials bolted up and/or tied down (fire extinguisher, tire wrench, First Aid kit, tool box).

Fun fact: My toolbox used to hold 50 cal bullets. :)

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Videos coming this weekend. Still editing.

:alien:

Cool, thanks for sharing the video's..