The Rover-Landers of BC

The Good News:

I got 820Km out of my truck between fill ups

The Bad News
Well I accidentally ran my pump dry due to forgetting to switch tanks after filling up.

The Even Worse News
The Bosch VE pump on my Peugeot Diesel has subsequently sprung a leak.

What I plan to do.
After doing some searching it would seem that that it is possible to change the rear Oring seal without removing the pump although it is very finicky operation . Knowing that the Rover 2.5 has the same pump I am wondering if anybody has tried doing this?

Plan "B"
Otherwise I have a fully rebuilt pump on a shelf at home which I may try to put in. Any words of wisdom with respect to how maintain pump timing during the swap?

I gather I will need to get Piston#1 to TDC and line the replacement pump body up as close to the original pump position as possible the means scoring some reference lines on the original pump and then carefully replicating these on the replacement using finite measurements. Fortunately the Injection pump sleeves into the injection gear on the timing chain.

Any thoughts appreciated, The more sarcastic the better.

I'm not sure if there are timing devices on the pulley on your engine, but all VE pumps can be timed with a dial gauge and adapter (you can buy them quite cheaply) through the center plug that is between the outlet ports. You measure the lift at TDC and match it to the specs for the engine. If you google, there are lots of videos showing it being done.

I have a similar pump on my 80's Rabbit Diesel and have removed it in the past to reseal the cold start advance (common leak on those). Anyway, there is a process to lock the engine in place in order to remove the pump and closely maintain the timing. The fine tuning of the timing is done with a gauge (I've done it by ear" and was pretty close). Here is a good video on youtube that shows how to time a VW diesel with the ve pump system

timing video


It is possible to reseal the back end o-ring without taking the unit apart but it can get screwed-up very easily. Here are a clople of links to descriptions on how to replace the o-ring on vw "ve" pumps.

o-ring replacement on ve pump

http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/view ... 1&start=22

another version using a baggie (yes, a baggie)
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php ... #msg309635

Have you considered filling the pump with ATF and letting it sit for 24 to 48 hours to see if it reduces the leakage? Might not be a long term solution but could reduce the problem. I run ATF through mine every time I change the fuel filter and for 10 years now it has been running with only one leak during that time (broken cold start valve seal.

Hope this helps... usual backyard mechanic caveats apply.

Cheers, Rob