The Rover-Landers of BC

Well, it arrived from Alberta June 1! Not exactly as illustrated tho'... it's a bit more of a project than anticipated. This 109 has been in need of some love and attention for some time. As soon as the trailer pulled up, my heart dropped and I asked the driver if he could deliver it back.

In order to gain some sanity I immediately began to tear out seats and aftermarket sound systems, followed shortly thereafter by carpets, door skins and the foam and carpeting that lined the safari top. Each piece literally dripping wet as it was pulled from the wreckage, I looked at what remained. The fiberglass pink insulation that was used to line the doors served to trap all the rain that wept past the decrepit window seals. As a guy who can't weld, another heavy sigh escapes me as I survey the ancient ruins that were once my footwells.

To get a small sense of accomplishment, I pulled the left windshield glass that had lost a gunfight and the left corner glass that had been replaced with plexi.

While I am a big fan of keeping the landy stock and original, my more immediate concern is to make it safe and roadworthy so I can take my kids for a jaunt.

Any feedback, counsel or leads for parts or repairs are more than welcome

mig welding is not that hard and the welders are cheap.

You'll need a pile of sheet metal, a solid table, a good hammer, an angle grinder, and a small mig welder.

Something like this will do everything you ask of it: http://www.kmstools.com/unison-180amp-mig-welder-12957

Craigslist is your friend.

You can do this.

I found this list of welders and prices:
I have a hobart handler 140 and it has been great for everything I through it. I recommend staying away from fluxcore. It has it's uses, but those uses are not anywhere on a car.


• Chicago Electric’s 90 AMP Flux Wire Welder (Harbor Freight, $199)

• Century’s Century 80 GL (Home Depot, $229)

• Lincoln’s Weld-Pak HD (Home Depot, $249)

• Lincoln’s MIG-Pak HD (Home Depot, $299)

• Lincoln’s Weld-Pak 100HD (Home Depot, $339)

• Lincoln’s Pro-Core 100 (Lowe’s, $369)

• Lincoln’s Pro-MIG 140 (Lowe’s $429)

• Hobart’s Handler 125 EZ (Direct/Online, $437)

• Hobart’s Handler 125 (Direct/Online, $444)

• Lincoln’s SP-135T (Distributors, $572)

• Hobart’s Handler 140 (Direct/Online, $599)

• Lincoln’s SP-135 Plus (Distributors, $715)

• Miller’s Millermatic 135 (Distributors, $742)

• Hobart’s Handler 180 (Distributors, $808)

'tis true....What SwamiJake says...

I am in the middle of a complete tear down and rebuild of a Series 1, and like yourself had never welded.

This really stalled my project until I finally decided to "go for it". Although my welding would never pass a concourse judge for an exact replication...it is strong and way better than what was there before. Ultimately once cleaned up it will be just fine.

Beg, Borrow or Buy a MIG welder, get some test metal and play a bit before actually doing the work. It's really not that hard. The trick is making sure that what your welding to, is clean and rust free. Wire brush it down to metal and do initially just spot or tack welds. To long of a weld can warp the metal because of the heat.

You can do it with a flux core wire feed, although with gas it's allot cleaner. I use a flux core wire without gass.

Parts can be ordered through many local rover shops (see links) or you can order directly from Rovers North.

http://www.roversnorth.com/c-78-footwel ... rails.aspx

Alternatively you can pop down to the local metal store and get them to cut you up some pieces to size, then just weld in the patch. Again make sure you get down to bare metal on both pieces.

If it is still to daunting there are welders who will come to you and do the work, although I would highly suggest getting a couple of quotes as when I did this (prior to doing it myself) I had a quote of $500 and then $1200.

What state is the chassis and the top of the bulkhead?

Definitely get yourself a welder.
When I began my 1967 2a project it was one of the first things I bought. With a little practice on some scrap metal you'll get a pretty good feel for it. I was surprised how easy it was to weld. I bought my welder at Crappy tire on sale for $399 it's a Lincoln electric Mig Pak 140. Here's a post from when I was welding my frame back together: http://www.series2club.info/forum/index ... #msg144559

Matt

You can do it. Youtube is a valuable source for instructional videos combined with good old practice. That is how I learned to weld. Since then I've fabricated bumpers, safari racks, gokart...etc. Flux core is a good start and adequate for most things "cheaper", but gas does make nicer, easier welds with the extra cost of the gas of course. PS. That's a nice Landy well worth the effort :)

As far as Flux Core goes, you will be ahead to buy a setup with a small gas bottle as its so much cleaner of a weld, however if flux-core is your only choice... I've talked to a couple of exerts over the years who suggested that reversing the DC polarity on the welder makes a big difference with flux-core wire and reduces the spatter. Might want to read your manual or Google "flux-core reverse polarity" as there's a fair bit of info out there.

cheers, Dave

Welcome to the forum, its a great looking truck!

It's going to be a long love-hate-love releationship bringing her back to her prime! It's a 45 year old vehicle so any metal or rubber parts will be showing their age....

As far as Parts suppliers go, where are you located?

Cheers, Andy

Thanks for the warm welcome, encouragement and sage advice!

I bought a MIG welder on Thurs from KMS. it's gas and flux core capable, although it's not the capabilities of the welder itself that concerns me.

Dave, the bulkhead is pretty rusted and has been patched a number of times. The outriggers look ok, but the rear crossmember is shot. Looks like I'm doing a body-off - with great reluctance.

Is it too late to get a Civic instead????

I think I'm tapping out...any takers? I havent done much since June - replaced some glass, taillights, ducts, but nothing else. I'll post it in the classifieds as well.

1967 Landrover 109 Rare NADA series (#348 of 811 built). 5 door. 2.25 litre gas motor. Rear Kodiak heater. New carb and fuel pump. Lots of receipts/$ from previous owner.

Frame horns and rear cross member rusted. Started taking the interior apart in June and haven’t gotten very far.

Two spares. Manual. Ran/drove in June. BC-registered. No surprises here (seats, door skins etc – all pulled) Everything else is intact. – you can see it in all its glory! Great winter project. My loss at $4900 obo.

Where are you located?

Thinking out loud here...

http://216.147.97.195/3bcr/3bcr_parts_cp.html

Rear cross member quarter chassis is $292 plus about 100 shipping. really not to hard to do this. I wouldn't disassemble the whole truck, just undo the body mounts and insert some 2x4s.

Foot wells are $66 each. If the door pillars are toast it gets tricky, but if it is just the foot wells, it won't be too hard. Again, body on job. If door pillars are rotten, major disassembly required.

hmm.

I agree. It really looks worth while saving. Even if you've got to let it sit for a while, you'll be really glad you stuck with er. :mrgreen:

jch wrote:I think I'm tapping out...any takers? I havent done much since June - replaced some glass, taillights, ducts, but nothing else. I'll post it in the classifieds as well.

1967 Landrover 109 Rare NADA series (#348 of 811 built). 5 door. 2.25 litre gas motor. Rear Kodiak heater. New carb and fuel pump. Lots of receipts/$ from previous owner.

Frame horns and rear cross member rusted. Started taking the interior apart in June and haven’t gotten very far.

Two spares. Manual. Ran/drove in June. BC-registered. No surprises here (seats, door skins etc – all pulled) Everything else is intact. – you can see it in all its glory! Great winter project. My loss at $4900 obo.

:cry:
i know the feeling...hope you'll be on to better/saner projects in future.