Series IIA 109" Body, Modified Toyota Chassis and driveline
Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 2:10 pm
So, after my virgin mid-show articulation ramp and see-saw attempts at Founder's Day 2011 (awesome job putting it on by the way guys!), there was quite a few questions about why my land-rover didn't seem quite right... and subsequent to answering a few of them, one of our fellow members suggested a get a build thread up on here...so here it is!
Synopsis: I'm running a late Series IIA 109" Land Rover Body, on a modified 1986 Toyota 4 runner frame, with an early 80's solid axle swap up front. It originally had the Toyota 22R 4 cylinder and 5-speed manual transmission, then I went to a 4.3l GM engine (initially carbureted, later fuel injected) - mated to the same Toyota 5-speed, and now I am moving to a 1996+ Toyota 3.4 V6 and automatic. I have found it a great project, largely due to the vast amount of information and products out there for custom Toyota projects, and still think it makes sense conceptually as a lover of the simple, modular, and mostly aluminum Land Rover body as well as the mechanical reliability, parts availability, etc. of Toyota - BUT there is no shortage of complications to work through and it's definitely not "bolt-on."
List of some of the complications I've encountered and the solutions I've implemented (which makes the whole things seem quite a bit crazier):
For body mounting, the front two outriggers were pretty straight forward to fab - the front ones were originally just cut off and then grafted on to the new frame - but I recently replaced them with heavier fabricated ones that I designed to accept custom rock sliders eventually. For the rear tub, the Toyota bed mounts were just cut off and moved to the inside of the frame instead of the outside (because the outside was too wide for the Land Rover tub), and then two 2x1 lengths of steel tube are drilled to adapt the body bolt spacing to the frame bolt spacing.
Because of the bump up on the Toyota frame for the rear box, it ends up being body-lifted - compared to stock - which, when combined with new Old Man Emu springs, gave it a pretty high ride height. So, in the latest iteration, I've mounted the axles spring-under instead of spring-over.
The front of the frame sticks out a bit further because of the Toyota having longer springs (to keep the wheel centered in the arch), which initially led to an unfortunate gap between the bumper and front of the fenders. But, in the latest iteration I'm just mounting the bumper stacked on top of the front crossmember, which places it about right relative to the fenders.
The stock power steering box initially poked out through the front radiator mount, but I've since converted to an FJ60 power steering box and steering knuckles, which moved it back into hiding (more fab work here, adjusting the mounting position on the frame).
Gas tank was an issue. Old saddle tank doesn't fit because the frame is wider. I initially had a custom saddle tank welded up, but have now moved to a larger chevy tank in the rear, which I'm going to fill through a new filler neck that runs up through the rear driver's side corner locker to a flush mount cap behind the license plate (have a flip down plate holder).
E-brake is also an issue because the Toyota's had a handle that pulled out from the dash, which created a lot more travel than the Land Rover lever. I'm happy with my latest iteration of that (RRC/Disco lever mounted between the seat and cubby - which is a nice solution to the Defender shin basher as well - leading to an intermediate pivot arm that multiplies the pull).
Finally, depending on what engine/transmission you're using, something will probably have to be done to the transmission tunnel (and mounting faces on bulkhead/seatbox).
Then there's all the wiring....
The last time it was all one color (as I update this in 2024, I am nearing the completion of v3 - which includes a full repaint to light green and new wheels etc.):
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP ... i-0W=w2400
Synopsis: I'm running a late Series IIA 109" Land Rover Body, on a modified 1986 Toyota 4 runner frame, with an early 80's solid axle swap up front. It originally had the Toyota 22R 4 cylinder and 5-speed manual transmission, then I went to a 4.3l GM engine (initially carbureted, later fuel injected) - mated to the same Toyota 5-speed, and now I am moving to a 1996+ Toyota 3.4 V6 and automatic. I have found it a great project, largely due to the vast amount of information and products out there for custom Toyota projects, and still think it makes sense conceptually as a lover of the simple, modular, and mostly aluminum Land Rover body as well as the mechanical reliability, parts availability, etc. of Toyota - BUT there is no shortage of complications to work through and it's definitely not "bolt-on."
List of some of the complications I've encountered and the solutions I've implemented (which makes the whole things seem quite a bit crazier):
For body mounting, the front two outriggers were pretty straight forward to fab - the front ones were originally just cut off and then grafted on to the new frame - but I recently replaced them with heavier fabricated ones that I designed to accept custom rock sliders eventually. For the rear tub, the Toyota bed mounts were just cut off and moved to the inside of the frame instead of the outside (because the outside was too wide for the Land Rover tub), and then two 2x1 lengths of steel tube are drilled to adapt the body bolt spacing to the frame bolt spacing.
Because of the bump up on the Toyota frame for the rear box, it ends up being body-lifted - compared to stock - which, when combined with new Old Man Emu springs, gave it a pretty high ride height. So, in the latest iteration, I've mounted the axles spring-under instead of spring-over.
The front of the frame sticks out a bit further because of the Toyota having longer springs (to keep the wheel centered in the arch), which initially led to an unfortunate gap between the bumper and front of the fenders. But, in the latest iteration I'm just mounting the bumper stacked on top of the front crossmember, which places it about right relative to the fenders.
The stock power steering box initially poked out through the front radiator mount, but I've since converted to an FJ60 power steering box and steering knuckles, which moved it back into hiding (more fab work here, adjusting the mounting position on the frame).
Gas tank was an issue. Old saddle tank doesn't fit because the frame is wider. I initially had a custom saddle tank welded up, but have now moved to a larger chevy tank in the rear, which I'm going to fill through a new filler neck that runs up through the rear driver's side corner locker to a flush mount cap behind the license plate (have a flip down plate holder).
E-brake is also an issue because the Toyota's had a handle that pulled out from the dash, which created a lot more travel than the Land Rover lever. I'm happy with my latest iteration of that (RRC/Disco lever mounted between the seat and cubby - which is a nice solution to the Defender shin basher as well - leading to an intermediate pivot arm that multiplies the pull).
Finally, depending on what engine/transmission you're using, something will probably have to be done to the transmission tunnel (and mounting faces on bulkhead/seatbox).
Then there's all the wiring....
The last time it was all one color (as I update this in 2024, I am nearing the completion of v3 - which includes a full repaint to light green and new wheels etc.):
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP ... i-0W=w2400