The Rover-Landers of BC

The manual calls for the hubs to be tightened on the rear axle so that they can be moved without much effort. It gives end float specs but without the tool you have to guage by the terms given in the manual. What is a more descriptive version of how much effort should be spent to turn the hubs?? I can move them around but they don't spin freely after I let go. I expect if I put a wheel on it would spin a bit with the weight of the tire.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Are you referring to the tightening or load on the hub/wheel bearings? If so, short of having a special tool/gauge, what you are trying to accomplish is to have the bearings tight enough they have no in/out play, while being loose enough to not increase rolling friction. This takes a little practice...

However, what usually works until you've done it enough times to feel comfortable, is to use a large pair of waterpump pliers on the inner nut, turning until it is tight with your wrist, not your elbow or shoulder, just your wrist. then turn back about an eighth of a turn. Rotate the hub slowly while tightening to ensure smooth operation. At that point you should be able to rotate the hub and feel very little resistance, however if you grasp the hub and jiggle in and out you should feel virtually no play either. Now add the locking washer -- use a new one if the tab is worn -- and the outer nut. Fold over the inner tab on the locking washer before you try and tighten the outer nut. I usually hand tighten the outer nut, then fold over the lock washer towards the inside, then tighten the outer nut and finally fold another edge of the lockwasher towards the outer nut.

Does that make sense? Some of the daily practicing mechanics on the board may be able to shed more accurate and less seat-of-pants information on it.

Dave

Consider purchasing a magnetic base dial gauge they are not expensive. The specified amount of clearance is important.

In order for the bearing grease to do it's job it must be able to slip under the bearings as the bearings roll. If all the clearance is removed the bearings will push all the grease in front of the bearing and metal-metal contact will result. I still use the dial gauge when setting up new bearings.

When the bearings are set properly, there is a very small but definite "clunK" when you push the hub in and pull it out.

You will find the clearance may disappear when the second nut is tightened. Always check the clearance with both nuts tight.

Alan Simpson
IP Mechanic
Rover Works B.C. Ltd

It would be difficult to dispute "doing it by the book". There are two methods described depending the year of the literature you have. In the "Series" manuals they describe measuring the end float with a dial indicator (the method Alan uses) and last year when you asked the same question someone posted the method as described in the newer coil spring manuals using torque settings for the nuts. Certainly acceptable results can be obtained by feel for the seasoned vetran but if you are not comfortable with that then I would also suggest obtaining the correct tooling to follow one of the two previously described methods. Getting it wrong will certainly accelerate wear/failure of the wheel bearings.

John

Thanks guys. Good info.