The Rover-Landers of BC

So you'll have to forgive me here as I'm new to series 2a land rovers - Im restoring the body but not doing a full restoration. I'm also probably a 4/10 when it comes to mechanical. I don't know what I don't know. So...

I have wanted to at least get the engine going and running to see where I need to troubleshoot. Well first off, I had a dead battery - so that was replaced. Replaced the old fuel in the system with new and primed the pump. Gave the carburetor a quick rinse with carb cleaner.

However, the engine cranks but no spark.

I took the plugs out and tested one against the engine block to see if it would spark. No spark.

Cleaned the contact points in the distributor as well as the rotor. Tried again - nothing.

Checked all the fuses too.

So I am wondering if this is a coil issue?

If so

1) Should I be getting a reading to the coil even if the engine off? If so how best to test this ? (points on the coil?)
2) Testing for a bad coil - what are the ohms that, at a minimum, be present across the + and - on the coil itself? What is the best way to know for certain it's the coil?

Speaking of coils - mine had a Toyota coil in it....no idea if that mattered or not. Apparently it was running when last parked over a year ago.

There has been some daft wiring that I can't comprehend so not sure if something has gone haywire...

Thoughts for troubleshooting?

With the Distributor cap off, have an assistant turn the motor over and watch the points to see how they open and close and if there is a spark at the points gap.
Dim the lights if possible so you can see the spark better. If you have a spark at the points gap then the coil is probably ok.

You shouldn't have 12v on the coil until the ignition is on. Best way to confirm the coil is to pick up a new coil, it doesn't sound like this is the correct one anyway, so good time to change it.

Here is a basic how to test your distributor and check the cap https://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair/h ... istributor

Testing the coil is pretty easy too you just need a multimeter Here is link to a how to https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/How- ... ition-Coil

But start with Andy's suggestion the spark is easy to see in the dark

If you need a hand I am in Mission and can pop over with a multimeter and spark tester

Will check these and report back.

Richard - may take you up on that offer. Thanks!

rgallant wrote:Here is a basic how to test your distributor and check the cap https://www.carsdirect.com/car-repair/h ... istributor

Testing the coil is pretty easy too you just need a multimeter Here is link to a how to https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/How- ... ition-Coil

But start with Andy's suggestion the spark is easy to see in the dark

If you need a hand I am in Mission and can pop over with a multimeter and spark tester

So I did this this tonight - there is no discernible spark at the points. Turns over but no spark.

I also bench tested the coil and it’s where it is supposed to be in terms of ohms for across the + and -

Now there is “branch” off before the coil. I am not sure what it’s function is but I measured volts across this and get roughly the same as the draw from the battery when the key is “on”. See picture.

Measured at the coil there is nothing through which i think is typical.

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Do you have 12v at the coil?

Should I take that from the leads to the coil while they are not attached?


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That is a ballast resistor you have circled. It’s purpose is to help prevent burning out your points. Either a resistor or a coil with built in resistance performs the same function.

You need to systematically go through your ignition system and ensure all is in order, to eliminate each component in order until you find the problem and restore spark. The ignition on a Series 2A is simple and basic, but ordered troubleshooting is required to chase down the problems and get it working.

The porcelain block is a ballast resistor. It is used in conjunction with 6 volt coil, in a 12v system. They are notorious for failing. You might want to buy a 12v coil and eliminate the ballast.

Also, get a simple continuity/circuit tester. They are cheap and make it simple to check for power and continuity at various connections.

M

Thanks for identifying that. So here is where what I have done so far.

Battery charged

Removed coil and tested primary and secondary. They seem in spec but can we sure they are ok. Will replace coil regardless

With ignition on have played with point to try to produce a spark. No spark on contact.

I am getting 12v at the coil.


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Martin for the 12v coil have you a suggestion? And if I go with that does anything else have to change? Pertronix?

I would imagine you remove the resistor in this case.


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For std points, you want a 12v coil with 3 ohm of resistance. Jeremy Pinney at Rocky Mtn Parts (www.parabolicsprings.com) can fix you up with the right bits (in fact all your needed bits).

Some S2’s had ballast resistors, but then had coils with a lower resistance.

M

So some progress.

I got a new coil and I can see that it does spark at the points. I tried to crank but still didn’t catch.


However I had to charge the battery again as it had run down. I did think that perhaps it needed a boost. Which I did but still no turn over.

So at least we know there is a spark as Andy said.


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That's good, next step is to check each plug to the block to make sure you have a spark at each plug. (dont forget to put the rotor arm back in under the cap!)

If you have a spark at the 4 plugs but it still doesn't start, then next take the fuel hose off the carb and put it into a jar, crank the engine a observe the fuel flow. Its not high pressure but you should be able to see a far bit of petrol pumping into the jar.

Thanks. What if no spark? Is that a distributor issue or lead/plug issue?


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If you don't get a spark from any of the leads I would say a distributor/or Rotor arm issue. If only one lead is not sparking, likely a lead issue.

Thought I’d try something to continue to troubleshoot.

I hooked up another wire to negative and then hooked up the secondary lead to a spark plug that I then ground to the engine.

I thought that by tapping the extra negative wire to the block I would get a spark to the plug (basically acting like the grounding of the contact/points). There was no spark to the plug

At this point I am beginning to wonder if my battery is suspect but thought I’d at least get something.

So - spark at the contacts. But no spark through the secondary when ground.

Hunt continues.


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When you did the check you mention above, did you have the ignition on?

Couple of things to check,
-Do you have the large ground strap from the engine to chassis? does it make good contact?
-Is the Rotor arm making contact with the little spring contact in the top of your distributor cap?
-Do you have the correct rotor arm?
-Are there any broken contacts on the inside of the distributor cap?
-under the distributor cap around the points, its quite common to have a short somewhere, check the little wires are not shorting and the plastic insulator under the points in in the correct place.

Yes. Ignition on.

I guess what I’m trying to figure out is why no spark from coil (which is new) to distributor via the secondary wire. The points and contact spark in the smallest way when I tried your test above. So the coil is grounding out fine. It’s just not shooting the jolt down the line when it’s supposed to.

I’ve hooked up several different leads from the secondary and ground them out via a spark plug to the engine block. It will not spark.


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All solved.

I checked all my circuits and there was nothing that was open.

I decided to replace the battery with a new one - the fact I could not get a spark made me wonder if the lack of power was the issue. Even though the battery was charged, i noticed that it would drop even after a quick crank. Battery did display adequate volts.

Turns out I was right. New battery and it fired right up.


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If it helps, I had the exact same experience as you did some years ago. I quit trying to get mine to start (which was a mistake) after I dropped a screw into the distributor -- yes, it's still there -- and sort of decided to start taking the whole truck apart instead.

Should definitely have tried to get it to run, first. 😅