The Rover-Landers of BC

Replaced the Rad and thermostat, likely it was just the old thermostat causing the problem but the rad was 7 years old. I get between 183 and 185 over 20 minutes, at idle now so that was excellent. Cleaned up a few other misc outstanding issues,and finally got a RTT mounted.

Tepui Ayer 2 man if you are very good friends, but nice and light at 95 lbs, I need build a front mount, and get a second set of tent mounting hardware. Another load bar is just stupid expensive at nearly 400 CDN.

https://i.imgur.com/MePMd9n.jpg

Inside

https://i.imgur.com/QEzS3RT.jpg

decided to move away from sleeping inside?

@bjornerickson yup that 4 day peak to peak had me thinking about it and a big win at the casino just before they closed cinched it. Getting old and I find I like my comfort :)

Seems like a new radiator is a good investment if you plan to keep her for a while, a cool engine in vital with those engines.

Comfortable looking tent. Why does the tent need a front mount? Does the front mount go across the two roof bars? :?

@ANDYD I could not get a straight answer from Front Runner on the load their bars carry it is either 220 or 180 each they are quite vague about it. So I figure me and the tent are close to 300, so adding in a 3rd support adds another 110 lbs, so 470ish total gives me some leeway. Given the rails go into 16 year old gutters, it can not hurt to lessen the over all load.

OK, now I look closer I see the two gutter mounted bars and you are looking for a 3rd one. At first I thought you had cross bars mounted on the factory roof bars.
Is mounting on the factory roof bars not recommended on the D2's? Do they have a low load rating?

@ANDYD The 04/03 have the short round bars and no extensions available,

They rated for all of 110lbs dynamic and static lbs. Basically they are just bolted directly to the roof.

Here is a better picture of the mounting gear. The two 1 inch bars stacked at the front will be replaced with a single 2 in square bar, attached to the bolt just in front.


https://i.imgur.com/FtUJ7iB.jpg

Congrats on joining the RTT club! You will find that load bar ratings are for a bumpy violent kind of ride. If you are static and not tooooo active you can generally double the ratings which is why it is hard to get a commitment from a bar supplier.

If you are thinking of a matching awning you should contact RoadQueen17 as she recently switched brands and has her Tepui awning for sale.

Hi Stuart, already have an awning but thanks. Got the 2 inch steel installed now I just need to wait for the rest of the mounting hardware, but at least I am mobile again

Well keep an eye on it! When we were in Africa it was not uncommon for someone to loose their roof top ten and whatever contraption it was attached to. Probably exacerbated by rough sand tracks and washboard. But not to dissimilar with our FSR’s if you are in a hurry. Hannibal held up well, and Patriot (like Deborrah’s). Some Defenders had two shorter racks to allow for twist.
Eric.

Thanks Eric, I figured checking bolts and racks would be part of your daily off road maintenance. I tend to be a bit OCD about that stuff.

Also continuing being sort of trapped at home

I checked my oil pressure the today,I have a gauge but the feed wire was too short so while I wait I setup up a temp solution.

Oil in use Mobil Vr1 10/30 Synthetic - it has better performance than the Rotella 15/40
Filter M301

Black Bearmach 78C thermostat - my old grey one died

I do have a tick hence the pressure testing

Seems good cold idle at 50 PSI idle at 188.6 ,normal hot idle, around 18 psi 680 RPM, Hot 2000 around 42 ish

For reference the RAVE 50 at cold idle and 10 minimum, it should run between 40 and 50 at 2000 + rpm hot

I have a few concerns related to hotter summer temps, so I may move up to AMSOIL 20/50 synthetic for the summer

The "hi tech setup"

https://i.imgur.com/wuded2W.jpg

Cold idle

https://i.imgur.com/Q4INMQ2.jpg

Hot idle

https://i.imgur.com/tZA9G4K.jpg

Richard,

The tick will likely be a lifter. Does it only do it cold or all the time? Either way, it might be some crap stuck in a lifter. Try a flush kit when you switch over to the heavier oil for the summer. Might help. Did for me last year. :P

@bsa_m21 yea I suspect the camshaft is worn, although it "looked" ok through the lifter holes when I checked while doing the head gaskets. Or the bottom end bearings are starting to wear out. At least I never get a low oil light warning, and a flush is worth the try there is nothing to lose.

10/30 is a little light for a 16 year old engine, but my options were a bit limited.

The tick is only hot and you can just barely hear it at idle, from outside, nothing once I bring the engine 1000 rpm

16 years old? :mi7:

Hah, it's barely broken in. :toothy7:

:lol: :lol: :lol: yea yea I know just a baby

Hi Richard,

Its worth checking for manifolds for any leaks, check all the bolts are tight. These can sometimes give a tick. At least its easy to rule this out :happy3:

Hopefully its not that "lost" nut going up and down on top of the piston :shock: