Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

[cbalme]

This morning I got the steering rod back on the truck. The tie rod ends went in nicely with lots of anti-seize but the drop arm off of the steering relay caused some headaches. There are two types and thankfully I had one of each.

The one on the left drops down two inches lower but has a taper on top, whereas the one installed currently has the taper on the bottom and doesn't drop down as far.

https://i.imgur.com/lCFwiT2l.jpg

I had the one on the left installed before but it left very little clearance between the chassis and tie rod end so I found the one off of the original truck and installed that instead. It looks much better and the steering rod isn't at a very steep angle like before.

https://i.imgur.com/U8LeYHkl.jpg

I'm just waiting for an extra tie rod end from Jeremy to do the other steering rod.

This afternoon with help from my Grandfather and Father we did the rear main seal.

I was afraid it was going to a terrible job but it wasn't too bad. I'd recommend an assistant though. We tried to do it without removing the main bearing cap but that was impossible because the seal retainer on the cap is held on with longer dowels so you have to remove them as one piece.

https://i.imgur.com/HGMgeMOl.jpg

We saved the old spring then pulled the old seal out then put the new one in place making sure not to overstretch anything. Haynes says to put the spring on first but it doesn't really matter which order you do it in.

https://i.imgur.com/Ry4JjQrl.jpg

The hardest part of this job was putting the main cap back on. It is crucial you don't tear the cork seals. We tore ours just slightly so it may still leak. To get them in without tearing you need to have some special wedge thing but we didn't have that. Feeler gauges work just as good but make sure you can still pull them out afterwards. (We had to take the cap off again because we lost a feeler gauge in between the block and cap.) When the cap was torqued up I used a sharp knife to trim the end of the cork seals so they don't interfere with the oil pan.

https://i.imgur.com/BGxR0AIl.jpg

Overall it really wasn't that bad. We used a lot of silicone grease on everything and took our time. Next job is the crank thrust washers.

[cbalme]

Busy day today. This morning I switched out the locks on the 110 so the keys for the front doors are matched.

After lunch, Victor and Greg came over to give me a hand with the transfer case. We shimmed the rear bearing of the transfer case and put in a new output seal.

https://i.imgur.com/n196z7Wl.jpg

It took a fishing scale and pulling the speedo drive housing off many times to get it right.

Later in the afternoon my Grandfather came over to give Victor and I a hand with changing the crank thrust washers.

https://i.imgur.com/eYrbmrJl.jpg

We removed the oil pump and the main cap then pushed the thrust washers out with a stir stick and a zip-tie. It now has about 2-3 thousandths of play instead of 15 thousandths. It was pretty easy and took about 10 minutes.

Victor convinced me to take apart the oil pump and clean it so that is what we did for the rest of the afternoon. There wasn't any wear in the gears and all looked good except for the spring that controls the pressure relief valve. It doesn't match the length required in the manual so I may have to get a new one later.

https://i.imgur.com/xkW4kJfl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/vVYMI91l.jpg

I washed all the parts in diesel and then we dried them out with compressed air. Here it is all back together. The engine is now ready for reassembly then painting.

https://i.imgur.com/22mi95jl.jpg

I also got a new front pulley seal installed into the timing cover. I tried to use self tapping screws but the first one instantly broke so I abandoned that idea. I went to the bolt shop and they gave me the rivets because it wasn't worth writing the bill for such a small amount.

https://i.imgur.com/4zVdsoKl.jpg

[cbalme]

Began bolting bits back onto the engine.

Thermostat Installed and the sending unit as well.

https://i.imgur.com/S3dHL2Dl.jpg

Camshaft plate and fuel pump plate installed.

https://i.imgur.com/hxBBR7tl.jpg

Now it's back on the stand and pretty much ready for paint. I just need to put the sump cover on then clean it again and mask everything off

https://i.imgur.com/nWmyXTRl.jpg

[cbalme]

Today I took the oil pump off to fix a few things I did wrong. Victor and I put the drive gear in backwards so the rod was getting jammed inside the gear so I had to sort that out, the strainer was also moving around too much in my opinion, so I had to find a solution for that.

https://i.imgur.com/YiqUD98l.jpg

As far as I can tell this is the correct way the gear should go in as Victor explained. Because it is machined differently on the other side and the splines on the inside only go halfway down the gear.

I had to run into town and get a new O-ring for the strainer because the original was rock hard. Now it takes much more force to move the strainer.

Got the Sump Cover installed with plenty of sealant on one side and grease on the other, maybe I'll have a leak free engine?

https://i.imgur.com/zXurCiEl.jpg

After that my dad and I covered the parts we don't want blue with tinfoil and masking tape, next on the list is degreasing and cleaning the engine before painting it.

[cbalme]

Over a month ago I ordered all the gearbox bearings, On Wednesday the final bearings arrived so I am ready to put the gearbox together.

The needle roller bearing on the main shaft came in a blue box and has more play than the one I pulled out of the gearbox....

The bearing on the left is the original and is made slightly different but I don't think they are different parts

https://i.imgur.com/gcKOXvKl.jpg

I also got a new cross shaft seal installed into the clutch release housing and changed the O rings on the gear selector shafts.

https://i.imgur.com/Xi66DQyl.jpg

Hopefully, I will be putting the gearbox back together in the next few days, I sanded down the engine and degreased it once again so it is ready to be painted.

[cbalme]

This afternoon I did a bit of painting.

Engine In primer and Steering Column being painted in the background, now it's all blue and looking very good!

https://i.imgur.com/xMgMRyAl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/l4odqYMl.jpg

Cleaned the grease and scunge off of the Starter and it looks much better for the clean engine.

https://i.imgur.com/60IdFqpl.jpg

Separated the Exhaust Manifold from the Intake Manifold, I'll put a new gasket on and clean the dust off of them before they go back on.

https://i.imgur.com/Vpd9bdfl.jpg

I also got a large box from Fed-Ex today, Inside was a nice new wiring loom. It looks very well built and worth its price.

https://i.imgur.com/kmxP6FVl.jpg

[SMohan]

Nice paint work. It's looking good!

[cbalme]

Thanks Stephen, I put a third coat on today and I'm very pleased with how it turned out.

Tonight I started putting the engine back together, I started by putting a new gasket in between the exhaust and intake manifold.

Here it is in its current state.

https://i.imgur.com/uGkQpf1l.jpg

I put the lift pump on but it didn't have a sediment bowl so I had to steal one off the old engine. It had some very stinky gas inside and some thick goo at the bottom. It cleaned up nicely. I'm not sure if the pump is any good because it doesn't build up a vacuum if I cover the inlet pipe.

https://i.imgur.com/zelNfKRl.jpg

I had a bit of a debacle when putting the engine back together. I tried to put the alternator mount back in but the bolt was too long so it ran into the crank pulley and there was no way it was going in unless I pulled the pulley off. When my dad and I took it off we found to our dismay that the lock tab had sheared off. I considered my options. There wasn't a spare on the other engine since it was set up for a capstan winch and a new one cost $20. I had a good look at it then took the hacksaw to it and cut a new tab on the inside of it. Thankfully that solved our issue and I was able to check that job off the list instead of waiting for more parts. Another thing I was worried about was dropping the keyway into the engine but thankfully my dad had the skills to keep it in place and not dislodge it.

[cbalme]

Tonight I bolted more bits on. I got the alternator, new spark plugs and a fan belt mounted. I moved on to the exhaust manifold, but I have a feeling that it is warped because nothing wants to line up. Are the manifolds supposed to be attached together when put back on the engine or are the intake and exhaust meant to be put on separately? I am having trouble with that.

Since I was stumped with the manifolds I moved on to the distributor. I got a new gasket in place and got it all bolted in, so I checked to make sure that it worked by turning the engine. I was surprised to find out the distributor didn't turn with the motor... Thankfully I have a spare engine I can take apart to see what I've done wrong with the one I'm putting together. It turns out the distributor drive had bounced out of the camshaft and was jammed up against the gears inside. I was lucky that it didn't break or anything otherwise I'd be fishing for bits in the motor and that's never fun. In the photo the splined thing is loose when it should be on top of the drive gear. The second photo shows the splined thing that's been ruined since I forgot to pull it out.

https://i.imgur.com/kjnb2Npl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Tzy4oe4l.jpg

Since the spare engine had a different style of splined thing that had around 10 splines on it I used that, but that meant I had to use the distributor off of the old engine instead of the one I was going to use. To my understanding, they are both Lucas 25D distributors they just have different styles of caps. Are the caps interchangeable between screw type and push type? I have no idea and the internet isn't telling me much.

The screw type is what's installed on the engine now but I have a brand new push type cap in a box. Can I use the new push type or do I need to order a new screw type cap?

https://i.imgur.com/CJxOUPzl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/0c3mmtIl.jpg

[cbalme]

We finally got around to putting the engine into the frame.

Using the trusty backhoe to insert the motor into the bay with precision.

https://i.imgur.com/iLHJot9l.jpg

The Eagle has landed

https://i.imgur.com/d1hFFQgl.jpg

I got the spin on oil filter installed. It was a nice bonus that came with the engine.

I've got to do a valve set in the next few days but I've lost my crank handle in the messy shop which is annoying.

I figured out the distributor cap interchangeability and I think the manifolds go on together but I'm not sure. Any tips are appreciated.

[mepham55]

Looks great Colin, can’t wait to see it cruising around! With the manifolds you should bolt them together loosely then fit them to the block. There’s a bit of wiggle room between the intake and exhaust manifolds so it’s best to make sure you have a good seal against the block first, then nip up the 4 bolts holding the manifolds together.

Matt

[cbalme]

Thanks Matt, I got the manifolds on last night and it looks like they shouldn't leak. I had trouble before but leaving those 4 nuts off did the trick.

On Friday night I got the Valves set correctly. Some were very off and left open when they should've been closed. I double checked them all and they match the clearances on the valve cover. I'll do them again after 100 miles of driving or so.

I also got the flywheel and clutch installed on Friday. I used a special tool to put the pilot bush in and it worked very well. It was a 16mm socket with a bolt through it and 2 big washers on the other side. The socket went on the inside of the bush and prevented it from collapsing while the washers were used to hammer it in. The pilot bush sat in the freezer in a bag full of oil overnight which helped as well. I tested it with the input shaft and it fits snug but turns without snagging.

https://i.imgur.com/cR0VgNll.jpg https://i.imgur.com/GZXpikyl.jpg

New clutch and spring plate installed, I used the input shaft of my gearbox since it was apart. Also added the degreased starter. I shined up the flywheel and pressure plate before I installed them with degreaser and Scotch-Brite pads

https://i.imgur.com/A3GGSIJl.jpg

I saw on the rocker shaft that I'm missing a bolt. I tried to steal another off the old engine but It seems to be a different size. What does this bolt do? Is it really important?? The photo is the front of the rocker shaft and the other is of the bolt I pulled off the spare motor.

https://i.imgur.com/R0jVTY2l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/QIotP5Dl.jpg

[mepham55]

That bolt locates the rock shaft I believe. If it doesn’t fit the rocker you have on the engine either the threads are stripped or it’s off a later metric engine. You could always swap the entire rocker shaft block you took the bolt off from the other engine as well.

Matt

[red90]

See the attached page from the parts catalog.

[cbalme]

Thanks Red and Matt. I had a look at both rocker shafts and they are not interchangeable. I don't want to take off the rocker cover either because I would have to pull head bolts out and that may cause problems.

The bolt I plan on using is the correct thread and gauge because it will screw into the other hole on the rocker shaft I'm using. The problem I am having now is that there is no hole in the rocker shaft where one should be. I need to rotate the shaft somehow so the bolt will go in that has the pin on the end. (ETC4660)

[red90]

Make sure that you understand how it goes together. The holes in the rocker shaft must be aligned correctly for the oiling to happen.

I don’t understand why you feel head bolts need to be removed to change anything with the rocker assembly.

[cbalme]

There are 5 bolts that are being used to hold down the head. To remove the rocker shaft retainers I'd have to pull those out and wouldn't that cause problems with the head gasket?

I have tried turning the rocker shaft with vice grips but that has not worked yet. It only needs to be rotated until I find the hole in the shaft for the bolt.

https://i.imgur.com/zJybB6Wl.jpg

The big bolts go down into the block and are holding on to the rocker shaft. I may need to remove the front of the rocker shaft holder to get a good grip on the shaft to rotate it.

The smaller bolts in front of the one that's missing seem to clamp down on the rocker shaft. I loosened those and it didn't make a difference.

[red90]

Try removing the clamp bolts completely and the valve cover studs. It should move as far as I can tell. Unfortunately, you are meant to fit that locating screw first before installing the rocker assembly. Are you using the genuine workshop manual for assembly? You probably want to read the series 3 manual as that looks like a Series 3 rocker assembly. As I read it, that locating bolt is supposed to be installed first before assembling and then installing the rocker assembly.

Just be happy that you noticed as I don't think oil would have been able to get into the rocker shaft with it rotated in the wrong position.

[mepham55]

I wouldn’t worry about removing the head bolts that pass through the rocker assembly, just torque them back to spec once you’ve sorted out the rocker assembly. If you’ve used a composite head gasket then you shouldn’t expect any leaks between the block and head once you’ve run it up to temp.

Matt

[cbalme]

I will try pulling the clamp bolts and studs out completely when I have a chance. I haven't had this rocker shaft apart I found it this way so nothing has been assembled. I am not sure what this engine is out of but it is a 3 Main Bearing motor, maybe a late IIA?

Matt, it has a copper head gasket as far as I know. I have not pulled the head off of this engine.

[red90]

Oh, makes sense. I thought you were rebuilding it. I would not pull the 5 bolts then without pulling the head and changing the head gasket. 5 bearing engines came out in 1980, well into the Series 3s.

[cbalme]

Hi Red, what about just removing one of the head bolts at the front near the thermostat housing? Would I still need to change the gasket?

[red90]

I would not chance it myself. You leave yourself open to the possibility of a leak as well as warping the head. Head gaskets are cheap.

[cbalme]

Thanks Red for the advice, but it seems that my rocker shaft is one solid piece instead of 2. This means it is aligned with only one bolt.

My rocker shaft has no split unlike the other.
https://i.imgur.com/Ur9ZzDbl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/tuIJOp4l.jpg


The oil holes are on top at each end of the shaft so it will be fine without the other bolt.

At the front

https://i.imgur.com/AhCfwSFl.jpg

Behind the middle of the rocker shaft.

https://i.imgur.com/kETuZOpl.jpg

[red90]

The shafts is upside-down or you are looking in the wrong location. There are oil feed holes on both sides for the rockers, but only on one side for the locating bolt. Also, it is not clear from your photos, but are you using the correct rocker support for the locating pin? It should be the second from the front of the engine.

See around 10:30.