The Rover-Landers of BC

Martin,

After looking at both my Engines you are correct. My early Series 2.25 has the cover but the later one does not.

I do not know anything about timing an engine but I guess I will be learning how soon enough.

Victory was mine over the Handbrake Drum. All I needed was a really big screwdriver and a bigger persuader as suggested.
https://i.imgur.com/EpFqkgMl.jpg

Found one less thing that needs fixing as well. We used a Battery Charger to test the Starter Motor and it spun nice and quiet. I don't know if it needs to do anything other than that. The gear on the end engaged freely and didn't stick so I couldn't find any problems with it.
https://i.imgur.com/anVHD1Ql.jpg

Began tearing the gearbox and engine down the other day. Slow progress because my father and I have been very sick.

Drained the oil, a fair bit of sludge at the bottom but clear oil on the top. It also had an awfully bad smell to it. A lot more came out of the Transfer Case than the Gearbox because the Gearbox was leaking out the front. I took an empty Heinz Ketchup tin and filled that up with diesel, then dumped half into each section. With the help of my dad we sloshed it around and left it for 20 minutes to drain. Drained that and some dirty diesel came out so that will make disassembly cleaner.

https://i.imgur.com/5DGdnDml.jpg

We pulled the timing cover off the motor to check things out. I noticed the front crank pulley had a noticeable groove in it, is that alright?
https://i.imgur.com/iwr5MxMl.jpg

I don't plan on replacing the timing chain because it looks in good shape. Haven't decided yet if I will paint the engine yet. I'm not a big fan of the colour scheme but it's also too cold to paint. I think I will paint some smaller bits then do the whole engine at a later date. Not sure on the colour either, I'm thinking of the same colour as the head, not sure if that's the proper colour but I like it.

Hi Colin,

I'm watching your Engine / gearbox strip down & clean up trying to get the inspiration to start mine!

Sorry to hear that you have both been sick... it must of been too may late nights out in the cold barn with old grease up to your elbows!

Its Looking Good, keep it rolling along! :happy6: I expect you plan to show it off at the Van Island Rally in June!

That groove in the pulley will result in an oil leak. A Speedi sleeve will remedy that.

Hi Andy and John,

It is quite a challenge to work after the sun sets. Right now I wear my biggest coat and try to power through, I might power a heater or migrate some smaller bits inside the house.

I will look into that speedi sleeve.

I was shooting for founders day since that was postponed but the Rally in the Valley is more likely. I'd like to drive it to school at least once. I plan on painting it at a later date since I have two of every body panel. This means I can still drive it while I'm painting the good body panel. I'll cross that bridge when I get there...

I recommend giving the Engine and Gearbox a good wash to remove all the grease. I skipped that on the gearbox and am now regretting it. Lots of hot water and that POR 15 Degreaser should do the trick.

Today I migrated the gearbox over to the Table. Much better working higher up than on the cold cement.

https://i.imgur.com/DDLrFp8l.jpg

Pulled the Speedo Unit out, Hopefully the shims don't need adjustment

https://i.imgur.com/rva7lWNl.jpg

Began taking the four-wheel drive apart but the output flange was rusted on so I had to get a special persuader in to do the job

https://i.imgur.com/eAMXbgul.jpg

Since the T-Case and Gearbox weren't separated the Four Wheel Drive Unit wouldn't come out because it fouled on the Bellhousing. So I began taking that off. In retrospect, I should've left the bellhousing on because it is requiring more disassembly than I hoped for. But I am committed now because I tore the gasket. I quit for the night because this weird looking nut won't come off without an assistant.

https://i.imgur.com/bZx4d6Il.jpg

I Checked the transfer case gears for broken teeth and they all look to be in very good shape. I hope the gearbox is similar.

Well it seems to me that I'm going to be taking the whole thing apart.

Tonight I got the Transmission separated from the Gearbox.

https://i.imgur.com/30NEyw2l.jpg

Then I tried taking the bellhousing off again. It turns out you do not need to remove the nut to remove the bellhousing. I heard a loud crunch while doing up the big bolts on the bellhousing and those can never be good. It turns out I crushed a bearing while trying to take that nut off so I will need to find a replacement. I believe it's off the Layshaft but I'm not sure.

https://i.imgur.com/C3cDfPll.jpg

Since the box is apart I think I will just replace every bearing and get it over with. So far all the gears look good but will need further investigation. Hopefully I will have this back together soon, but I may be giving the engine some attention while I wait for more bits.

Looking good Mate. I had exactly the same groove on mine too and the leak was pretty bad... the slip sleeve thing cured the problem though :D

Hi Dave, I did a quick look at Sleeves on Amazon and it seems like they cost more than a new Crank Pulley (Bearmach), So I may just get a new Pulley.

Victor came over today to inspect my gearbox, the only questionable gear was 1st on the Layshaft, it is knawed off on one side. The rest of the Gears are in good shape so they'll get reused. I will replace most of the bearings in the Gearbox except for the one in the clutch release mechanism. All of the bearings in the Transfer Case are in good shape so I won't touch those.

The Mainshaft took a bit of pounding to get out, but after a few good hits it popped out cleanly.
https://i.imgur.com/TyEANAel.jpg

The Rear Mainshaft Bearing race had to be removed so we thought about how that was going to happen. We then saw that somebody had already changed it because there were two small holes drilled through the box to the race. We gave it a light tap and the race fell out.

After more inspection of parts we decided the rear output flange wasn't reusable, It had a very deep groove.

https://i.imgur.com/68NjitSl.jpg

I didn't really want to buy a new one because I was told they're expensive so I pulled one off the other box, it was very rusty but cleaned up well with sandpaper. I can't feel a grove in this one so I think I'll use it.

https://i.imgur.com/NTlb2EKl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/LDA5KLFl.jpg

Your making great progress Colin! If you want to speedy sleeve the output shaft the part number you need is: CR99162

Matt

Hi Matt, thanks for the encouragement. I don't think I need the sleeve. I cleaned the shaft off with emery cloth and it looks in very good shape.

On New Year's Eve and yesterday I did some painting on the engine and gearbox parts. All were painted either flat or semi-gloss black. The main engine will be Kubota Blue because that's what Island Tractor has and I quite like it.

It took a lot to remove all the old gaskets because it seems to me like they were glued on very well. I ended up using a wire wheel on my angle grinder to take it off the sump.

Before and After

https://i.imgur.com/6vQhbu5l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/QGcbvKFl.jpg

Victor came over this morning to give me hand putting together what we could. We managed to get the Front output back on and that was it while I'm waiting for parts. It was a bit of a struggle to align it all but everything clicked together as it should. We put all the levers and linkages on before sliding the casing over it all. Then we shifted it everything to make sure it all engages properly.
https://i.imgur.com/V6HJlLml.jpg https://i.imgur.com/RsPAXsKl.jpg

Painted the timing cover tonight in Kubota Engine Blue, very pleased with how it turned out so I'm happy with my colour choice. The camera make it seem lighter than it really is.

https://i.imgur.com/P5RvhZnl.jpg

Today I did a little bit of work on the gearbox and flywheel. I cleaned the casing and the outside of the bellhousing so it's nicer to put together. Then I changed the Seal for the Speedo housing.

I used a small screwdriver wrapped in a cloth which I tapped into the seal and then pried it out.

https://i.imgur.com/2vdYgkAl.jpg

Back Together

https://i.imgur.com/u0gTlwul.jpg

On the flywheel I cleaned it up and was told by my Grandfather that it needed resurfacing. I punched the old bushing out while I had easy access as well

https://i.imgur.com/owmBjw5l.jpg

I also found the date of either assembly or casting stamped into the main gearbox casing.
https://i.imgur.com/IRzeRUml.jpg

Hi Colin,

I really admire you're tenacity to move this project along, hopefully it will be an inspiration to all those who have stalled on their restorations. The updates and photos provide the site with great fresh content also. Keep up the great work.

PS I know you are trying to keep within a tight budget but if you can manage to find the money for a new clutch release bearing you won't be sorry.

Bill

Hi Bill, I try and update my progress a couple times a week at the least. It may give you all something to read when not much else is going on. I'm getting bored of having it sit around and thinking of using it is what keep me going!

I have an early Series 2 Gearbox and it is a different type of clutch release bearing. I was told that it's rare for them to fail. It is the type that is part of a housing that's bolted to the front of the bellhousing. To change the bearing you need a press and since it looks very clean and spins smoothly I'll reuse it. I will change the cross-shaft seal in the housing to prevent any leaks. The one you may be thinking of is the later style gearbox that has a clutch fork and a release bearing that runs along the gearbox shaft.

Didn't get much done this week. Rummaged through my parts bins up in the loft and found some useful bits nicely painted.

The light switch and lock with a working key. Before I was using a Black and Decker key on the original.
https://i.imgur.com/873Y3bfm.jpg

A galvanized steering bracket
https://i.imgur.com/695wb17m.jpg

The most interesting was an aftermarket plastic beehive lamp. Unfortunately, I knocked the bag into the lamp and it rolled onto the floor then into the abyss. I don't think I'll ever see it again which is too bad.
https://i.imgur.com/WgbNMqwm.jpg

Lots of bearings and bits came this week and I had the opportunity to get some work done today since Mt. Washington was closed.

Pulled first Gear and the bearing housing off the layshaft using our shop press. I had my assistant catch the layshaft when everything popped off. Here is pressing on first gear. Then the new RHP bearing was pressed on flush with the end. I did not use the hot/trick for either of these and the installations went very smooth. I left the wax on the gear because it is very easy to peel off later.

https://i.imgur.com/pnl0MOql.jpg https://i.imgur.com/EeLKLFEl.jpg

We pushed the Primary pinion out of the bellhousing then put it in the vice with a used clutch disc to work on the funny nut. The bearing came off after a few good hits with a punch.

https://i.imgur.com/dFvO54Ml.jpg

Layed the engine on its side to gain access to changing the main seal which will an interesting task.

https://i.imgur.com/8pDmHuul.jpg

I also got the steering bars apart with a big wrench hooked on the end and a little bit of butane flame persuader. It turns out I've ordered the wrong style of Track Rod End. I've heard various opinions on mixing and matching and am not sure what to do.

https://i.imgur.com/NaJsakzl.jpg

Took delivery of a shiny and clean flywheel yesterday. I'm glad I didn't use it in the state that it was in before!

https://i.imgur.com/8n1nr3yl.jpg

I'm planning on attacking the rear main seal for the 2.25 3MB this Thursday evening. Does anyone have any tips or tricks?

Hey Colin, great progress in this cold depressing weather!
With all the practice you are getting on Engine rebuilding, I will be dropping mine off to you in a couple of weeks :wink:

Regarding the steering components, from what I have read its fine to upgrade to the newer style as long as new style tie-rod ends go with new style steering bars. If you are keeping the old steering bars best to use the older style tie rod ends. ( so basically don't mix and match. It all about where the clamp tightens down and how many threads you can get into the steering bar ends.

There has been some cases of steering rod ends stripping out the bar and then steering loss at speed doesn't end well .... :rolly:

Hi Andy

I wouldn't say I'm doing an Engine Rebuild, more of a "refurbishment". It seems as though the previous owner changed all the bearing caps because they look barely worn in.

Does your engine need to be rebuilt?

I've ordered the correct tie rod ends but Jeremy only has 3 out of the 4 I need to complete my steering system.

I’m close to doing the rear main seal. One of the interesting things seems to be the various tricks to get the T-shaped cork seals past the sharp edge of the block. LR had a special tool, a pair of sort of wedge things. Others use metal shim stock. I’m going the shim route, and I will post pics and advice when I do it.

I might have some TREs still in the box if you need them Colin