The Rover-Landers of BC

Discovery brake servo cludged into place on the series pedal box. Will need to do up a little bracket/spacer to set the booster far enough out from the pedal pin. The disco booster also has tiny short little bolts so Ill make the spacer big enough to bolt to the stock pedal box holes. I'll need to bore out a couple of holes in the pedal box for the disco bolts/nuts to sit in and allow the unit to sit flat.

Thanks to Ian doing all the work, ( :) )I got the Discovery 1 brake servo & Master cylinder mounted onto the series pedal box today :)

Minor Mods to the pedal box to make way for the bolts that will hold the servo to the adapter/space plate Plate has holes to match the series pedal box bolt pattern. Holes in the plate were tapped as the part of the servo that bolts to the plate doesn't leave room for bolt heads or nuts to poke through.
Bolts up nicely! just need to disassemble everything and paint the adapter/spacer plate, apply some liquid gasket stuff between the parts and its good to go!!\

I got it mounted and all looks good! I have a snorkle plate on the wing top on that size which will need a trim of about an 1 inch x 3 inches.
I'm also going to have to re-work my air intake to the snorkle. Its going to have to go through the mudguard and back into the engine compartment through the inner fender. I was also told it was possible to replace the series inner fender with a defender one, but for the sake punching a couple of holes in the current body work I wont be looking into that unless i can find an defender inner fender pretty cheap and close by.

Finally got around to finishing this part of the project.. Or at least mostly.
I've got the discovery rear seats mounted up. 60/40 split and they tip forward for extra space in the back or access to the jumpseats if I get them.
Still need to get & mount seat belts as well as mount the latch that holds the seat backs in place. Also need to add a couple of feet or bumpers to the other side (and redo the foot from the installed side which I somehow made an inch short :( ) and it's good to go!
And just for cosmetics, at some point I'll do something to finish off the side of the construct that holds the seat frame.

Wow. Been a while since I updated this...
I took a bit of a break after fighting with the drivelines and transfer case position.
Early on I discounted the idea of keeping the transmission in Stock location but with a fresh look at it, I realized it would be less problematic to mess with options at the front end in order to make room for the engine to stay forward.

Ended up getting a new radiator and fit would have been better if the tanks weren't so thick but I did manage to cram everything in. I had to get a super thin cooling fan from cooling components Inc, as well as some (cheap) led headlights to save room behind the grill. I also had to switch to a remote electric water pump.

Looks like it's a go though. All bolted in place.

I haven't posted anything in ages... Mostly because i haven't accomplished much. Mostly screwing around and avoiding wiring!
Finally forced myself to get the ECU, fuse box and ascociated wiring installed.
Maybe not the cleanest install but I'm a bit out of my depth so just hoping for the best.

Looking good!

I agree with Jake. Looking good.

Hmmm. Although I wonder how you plan on getting at the fuse box once the wings are installed.

M

There is a panel on that wing for a snorkel. Not sure if ill use the snorkel or not but will have a panel regardless

Buttoned up the rest of the wiring today and put a battery to test. Promising so far. All the lights work as they should. Got all the loose wires figured out and labelled. EHPS pump mounted and wired but needs to come back out for engine install.

Tested out the electrohydraulic power steering pump today. Seems to work well. No leaks in the hoses i assembled so thats good.
I'm not familiar with the feel of regular rover power steering but it turns the 8.25 r16 xzls with minimal effort.
Makes a bit of a whirr but i dont think it will be audible over engine and rover noise from within the cab.

Good progress! You have to be comfortable when your bouncing about in the mountains :bounce:

The brown seats look like Range Rover Classic to me. I remember when this vehicle was originally getting built it evolved from a RRC and a Series 109 so its all Land Rover as far as I know :blackeye:

Keep up the good work
-Andy

Been working on a shifter for the auto trans. The stock shifter for the transmission is too big and bulky and will require a full custom center console.
I repurposed a cable driven transfer hi/low shifter to actuate the shift lever on the transmission. This should fit in the existing transmission shifter opening.
I had to cut back the cable sheathing slightly and make a custom linkage to the shift lever to gain the required range of motion to hit all the gears.
There is no lockout to stop shifting from drive to reverse so I added a spring loaded lateral movement and will make a shift plate to offset the reverse and park positions from the D, 3,2, and 1 positions.
Im still batting around how to set up a gear indicator. Maybe some sorts of contact switches?

I like your shifter solution. I did something a bit different on my build, but with the same transmission indicator issue. I’m likely going to go with a 2-1/6” round gauge/PRND321 indicator from Autometer.

https://www.autometer.com/catalogsearch ... e=products

Looks like it will work, not look too out of place in the dash, and has other functions I can use.

M

Yeah i looked at that one... Maybe in the future as i have 3 dash holes to fill... Its a bit pricey for my dwindling funds right now

Mocked up the transmission tunnel with shifter installed.
Only possible fouling between the two shifters is in D1 and transfer case locked and high, though im not sure i have the transfer case linkage quite right..
Anyway.. Fairly promising for minimal expense

Mounting the zf4hp22 shifter to the transfer case shifter support was too flimsy so i redid it to mount to the transmission tunnel.
Im trying to decide how to finish it off neatly.
I mocked up a rough coverplate for the trans tunnel hole thinking of securing shift boots to each lever to that plate.

Would still like some visual cue as to transmision gear selection. I've incorporated a simple shift gate to bar slipping into reverse from drive and visa versa. Selecting the correct drive gear may take a bit of finesse as the lever positions are quite close together, too close to incorporate a more complex shift gate.

Thoughts?