The Rover-Landers of BC

Well I finally bit the bullet and decided it wasn't worth trying to salvage anything out of my original hackjob of a Series 2A Land Rover. Despite a seemingly solid motor and gearbox, the frame was too far modified and the bulkhead bordering on the hazardous (see green frame pics below). So I picked up another Series 2A from a bloke in Ladner who'd had it stored in on of his green houses for the last 10 years. Got it a couple of weeks ago and hauled it back to the Island (BC Ferries cost a small fortune by the way!) and have had a chance to give everything a good going over with the body off the frame:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Landy5_zps56871f8c.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Landy7_zpsd81c27d7.jpg

Having been stored inside for a number of years the frame is really in excellent shape - a quick pressure wash, some cutting to get the custom bumper/wood basket/winch support and a bit of straitening of the rear cross member out rigger and she'll be ready for a nice fresh coat of chassis paint... OK maybe a few surface rust spots will need attention but its great to finally have a solid foundation for a project.

Here she is before being unloaded form the trailer (note body just resting on frame for transport):

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Landy9_zpsc2aa6d18.jpg

Here's that bent outrigger:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Landy6_zps29625887.jpg

I suspect the vehicle was tipped on its side at one point due to the bent outrigger and slight damage to the body panels on one side (lot's of ugly filler that I've been chiseling away at). The odometer only shows 27,000 miles which I believe to be correct as it was last registered for road use in 1974...

Here's the extent of the filler... door might be beyond saving - will for sure be getting Rocky Mountain door tops:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Landy4_zps071aab9b.jpg

Bulkhead is nice and solid - virtually rust free:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Landy8_zps931ab0e7.jpg

Before I can really do anything I have to make some room in the garage so the little green monster has to go:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/LandRover_zps0bf78b3a.jpg

The above picture shows some of the "modifications" done by the P/O to salvage the rotten frame and bulkhead. It was fine for tractor use but no way this was ever going to get back on the road. I'll be taking the axles, engine and gearbox from this one and scrapping the frame/bulkhead/tub - please shout if anyone wants it! I'm in the process of doing this now - pic below shows the bulkhead off, engine and gearbox cleaned up and fornt axles out:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Landy2_zps0f7d9f06.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Landy1_zpsc03cd991.jpg

Apparently the engine is seized on the project vehicle and there's a BIG crack in the bell housing so I'm happy to have an extra engine ready to go... Once the donor vehicle is out of the way the hard work begins... plan to tackle it in the following order to maximise my available garage space:

1. Strip down project vehicle to the frame.
2. Clean up frame, prep for chassis paint, straighten outrigger (any tips???) and remove seized bulkhead tie bolt (not looking forward to this bit).
3. Paint chassis
4. Install rear parabolics, new bushes, shocks etc...
5. Paint rear axle, overhaul rear breaks, reinstall axle
6. recondition tub, refit tub
7. Figure out what needs doing on engine and gearbox...

I haven't set a time frame for this project as it's my first vintage Landy and my first real attempt at anything like this before. This will not be a full nuts and bolts restoration so please no snarky comments from bolt counters if there's any out there! I also won't be looking to get every crease and ding out of the body work - I intend to use this vehicle off road when she's finished and expect I'll be putting some of my own battle scars on her too!

Anyone have any tips on removing the engine and gearbox? I access to a decent hoist and the bulkhead/seatbox are all out so is it really as simple as undoing a few bolts and steady as she goes?

Cheers

Dave

Been a bit busy with house renovations and work recently but here's the little progress I have made:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r69 ... 08ef01.jpg

Got rid of the custom bumper and winch mounts.

Had to cut off one of the bulkhead outriggers as the tie bolt was not coming out...

Next step is off to my welding guy with the frame for a little patching, straightening and reattachment of a britpart outrigger then painting of the chassis.

Anyone had any experience with POR-15 chassis paint? Any other products that you'd recommend?

Looking good Dave,

I used por15 on most of the steel parts under my rover, that was 5 years ago and its held up really well.
For my chassis I used por15's chassis black. The trick with por15 is its not UV tolerant so its best used on hidden areas.

Matt

It looks good. I had a frozen bulkhead bolt but was able to get it out with a good punch and a 4 pound hammer. Took quite a bit of hammering and I missed my hand every time.:) Glad I didn't have to cut the outrigger off. Good tidy wire harness, easy to continue to the peripherals. I stripped mine down almost to that point but left the engine in place. Moving around 600# of engine wasn't high on my list. The gearbox comes out easy like you have it. Lift it out by hand is how I did it. A bit heavy but doable. Helps to have an assistant.

POR 15, I like it and it goes really far. Quart can will do you chassis several times. YOU HAVE TO PUT A PLASTIC SHEET OVER THE LID OF THE CAN BEFORE YOU PUT THE LID BACK ON. Or you won't get the lid back off. Sorry, hope your ears are okay. I didn't mean to shout THAT loud but there's no volume button on this keyboard. Not UV stable to put a coat of something else over top.

Thanks for the feedback and useful pointers Matt and Greg...

On the tie bolt, I was maybe a bit hasty with the angle grinder and in retrospect should have had a bit more patience - but what's done is done... will have to take extra special care to ensure the outrigger lines up properly with the bulkhead - some "double trial fitting" will be required!

Did you guys use a specific type of primer under the POR-15 or can it go straight onto red oxide?

Cheers

Dave

Por15 is best put on bare steel. The best thing would be to removal all old paint grease then spray with a phosphoric acid(available from marine shops) then paint the por15 on.

Matt

Bit of an update... made a bit of progress since I last posted.

Rear cross member straightened out and repair pieces cut...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_0886_zps433e078c.jpg

New bulkhead outrigger welded into place:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_0885_zps582daaa8.jpg

A little bit concerned that the Britpart piece doesn't fit flush with the main frame rail but we trial fittted the bulkhead and checked measurements form quite a few reference points... we'll see how it is when it's time to put everything back together again I suppose...

Prepped and painted the chassis in red oxide primer (brushed on). I've left the original paint in tact under the primer and just degreased/keyed the surface before applying. I figure that the factory paint has lasted 50 years without any issues so there wasn't much point going back to bare metal.

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_0963_zps7f36338f.jpg

Will let the red oxide set for a few days before applying some tremclad and then a top coat of waxoil for ultimate protection - who needs to spend 3 grand on a galvanised chassis?!

While working on my replacement rear axle (the one on the truck has a broken shock mounting bracket) I discovered a broken half shaft. From what I've heard, this is a week point on the series Land Rovers. Hopefully the axle on the truck has a good half shaft that I can swap over.

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/RearAxleDismantle_zpsf534e8c6.jpg

Looking good Dave! Those welds are much prettier than mine! Maybe it'll be up and running for the ralley in the valley this June?!

Matt

Cheers Matt, I can't take the credit for the welds I'm afraid. A mate of mine (who also owns a 2A) traded some welding time for the old truck cab.

June you say?? That might be a bit optimistic unless I bring her down on the back of a flat bed!

Got some gearbox work that'll need doing - might need to pick your brains on that.

Cheers

Dave

A few more pics of rear axle bits getting the tremclad treatment...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_0977_zps560bdd18.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_0976_zpsffa746ad.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_0975_zpsb5f36ef9.jpg

Anyone have any tips for getting the diff pinion oil seal out?

Cheers

Dave

A few more pics of my progress... frame is basically free of any old bits (except for the steering relay - almost impossible to get out without any weight on the truck).

Rear paras and axle are on:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_0985_zpsa8569501.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_0990_zpsdedca595.jpg

Did the Head gaskets too - the motor looks in real good shape. Pistons are good, no scoring but there was evidence that the old HGs were leaking...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_0991_zpse7eba044.jpg

Got break lines, backing plates and shoes/cylinders on the rear axle now but no pics just yet... currently prepping the front end of the frame and waiting for some new wheel studs so i can get the rear hubs back on and get some rubber back on the ground.

Next steps will be the front axle and putting the rear tub back on the frame.

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140704_1748311_zps19349d76.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140704_1748001_zps96449a84.jpg

Got the rear axle all put back together again... ended up putting Series 3 pull in wheel studs so had to drill out the brake drum holes to make them fit. Fresh oil is now in the axle and so far no leaks!

The only issue I have is I broke one of the drive flange bolts when torquing up. It's gonna have to get drilled out or extracted so will be running on 5 out of 6 bolts until I can get round to that as I don't fancy draining the oil and pulling the half shaft and hub off (again!).

Series 3 lug nuts are on their way so I'll have the rear wheels back on shortly...

You probably don't have to take anything off to get the broken bolt out. Go to an industrial supplier (not CT) and buy a reverse drill bit, 1/4" should do. Drill in the centre of the bolt after your centre punch it, and the drill turning in reverse will back out the bolt as it bights and grabs as it drills.

I've found these bolts come tight a few thou (not noticeable) before the bolt head comes tight on the flange because a PO had used too much gasket maker or something when put together and had pushed excess material and debris into the hole. Bolt bottoms out on the crap and when it feels tight and you torque it, it twists the bolt off instead of holding the flange on.

Yup you're exactly right greg - those holes on the hub get easily filled in with crap... might be worth getting a tap and die set for these and give em a good going over once in a while.

Picked up some nice wolf wheels from AndyD - thanks mate!

Couldn't resist throwing the rear tub on and the new wheels - I really like the way the increased ride height form the springs and the larger offset from the wolf rims look:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140722_1841001_zps9b9055cd.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140722_1840361_zps6760b253.jpg

Managed to get the old chassis bushes out last weekend:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140810_151556_zpsa7fbe5f6.jpg

This was a job I was not looking forward to but after a bit of trial and error with the first side I as able to get the other side out in about 20 minutes. The best method I found was to burn off the rubber with a torch and remove the inner sleeve. I then cut the outer sleeve with a hacksaw, bent up the edges and applied some penetrating fluid and more heat. I was able to drift them out pretty easily after that.

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140810_172200_zps3a1d2fe5.jpg

Springs and shackles are now on... time to get working on the front axle...

A little bit more "progress" the last few days... It took me a while to figure out that a donor axle from an RHD vehicle isn't going to work on a LHD vehicle without playing around with king pins and shims so I have to take of the nicely painted RHD axle and rebuild the LHD one...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140826_1842451_zpscb4fde4a.jpg

LHD axle in dis assembly:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140826_195645_zps5e64cef7.jpg

Half shafts all came out easily. No damage or wear to report:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140826_195606_zpsffb799da.jpg

May get round to rebuilding the Warn hubs that came with the LHD axle one day but this can wait for now as they're pretty seized up internally. Will nick the standard drive flanges off of the RHD axle to get up and running...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140826_195830_zps8b3dcedd.jpg

Next step is to remove the swivel housings and get some new swivel seals, clean and paint the RHD axle and get it back on the frame. one step closer to a rolling chassis!

Looking Good Dave .... I can see her being ready for Founders day in Jan 2015 followed by a full year of camping / exploring!

A little bit of an update...

New races for the hubs, sand blasted and painted:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140916_195614_zps625fc4aa.jpg

New swivel oil seals:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140911_144626_zps27df7827.jpg

Front brakes completely overhauled:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140915_190914_zps29b12320.jpg

Back on all four tyres:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140923_184648_zpscf70b7f4.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20140923_184705_zps15d9e290.jpg

Hi,
I have a similar bend in my rear cross member, in my series ii project chassis, that is otherwise good.
I note that you straightened this successfully, is this some I could do at home with tools bought at CT or princess? Any advice you have would be great, thank you.

Great looking rebuild and the helpful step by step photos and postedadvice are much appreciated. Thanks.

Rambler wrote:Hi,
I have a similar bend in my rear cross member, in my series ii project chassis, that is otherwise good.
I note that you straightened this successfully, is this some I could do at home with tools bought at CT or princess? Any advice you have would be great, thank you.

Check out the pic on page 1 - we used a chain to anchor the truck and then a decent hydraulic jack to "pull" the bend back in place after a bit of heat... my friend is a body shop guy and was able to help out - Probably could have done it at home with a couple of good anchor points but it was easier and quicker to do it at his place with his set up...

A few more pics...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141003_093723_zpsfca3e7a2.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141003_095528_zps4cdfcb67.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141003_095543_zps18264dbc.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141003_095551_zps9cc6547d.jpg

Engine is back in now... not too far away from firing her back up again. Plan to get the bulkhead back on first and redo some of the electrics...

Great, thanks for the helpful advice, I will call in some friends to help and give the straightening a go.
Best wishes with the rest of your rebuild.

Had a good weekend... Victor and Rob from the club paid me a visit on Saturday - thanks for all the advice and encouragement guys... I'm definitely more motivated to get this rebuild moving along now... After the guys left, I managed to get the roof back on - not the easiest one man job I've ever done! Everything seems to line up OKish though I had to do some "repositioning" of the wind screen brackets. This vehicle has definitely been in a mild roll over at some point - the real test will be when I go to put the doors back on...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141115_195842_zps8b59772f.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141122_174553_zps3c90b665.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141122_174608_zps282a165c.jpg

Looking great Dave, love the colour choice! Ready for founders day possibly?!

Matt

I think we've been shooting for founders day for the last two years running, Matt!

Let's see how progress goes over the next few weeks - The Van Isle summer Rally might be a more optimistic target... though if you sell me that nice shiny reconditioned gearbox you just finished, Founders Day would be one step closer!

Looking very smart. Great to see what can be done to a classic old beauty

Fitted the tub to van side seals earlier this week... was a bit of a faff and would have been much easier as a two man job but i got there in the end with the help of my trusty ratchet straps!

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141221_143341_zps377ff389.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141221_143341_zps377ff389.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141221_135805_zps64639916.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141221_143332_zpse0bea5e0.jpg

Also did a trial fit on my front door... i only had three door hinge bolts so its far form perfect but i think i can live with it without having to add washers in between the bulkhead and frame!

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20141221_153107_zps56ed9f3a.jpg

Hope to get the tub and sides all painted up over Christmas if I can get enough heat into the garage... an old wood stove weed be nice but if I got one of those I don't think the missu would ever see me int he house!

DrRangelove wrote:... an old wood stove weed (edit: would) be nice but if I got one of those I don't think the missu would ever see me int he house!

I'll send her an email. I'm pretty sure she'll be getting you one for Christmas!

Not a massive amount of progress has been made recently but the warmer weather did inspire me to paint some body panels:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150419_170947_zps3iuyzpnn.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150419_172150_zps7aueoatd.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150419_183958_zpsypiqrc00.jpg

I used a tin of Home Hardware "Rust Coat" which is an enamel based tractor type paint and applied it with a cheapo paint brush. She won't win any beauty contests but the finish is much better than I expected and given the rough condition of the bodywork I didn't see the point in spending too much in this department.

- 2 tins of rust coat gloss grey $26
- Jumbo family pack of paint brushes $10
- 10 cans of self etching primer $85
- 1 roll of painter's tape $4
- Not having to look at faded red paint and patches of moldy body filler... priceless

The worst part of this job was removing the rather generous layer of body filler that had been liberally coated over the entire body of the truck. At its thickest, it must have been close to 1/4 inch! I found a few battle scars under the filler, included a shotgun blast peppering on the passenger side door - rather than reapply the filler for some poor bugger to sand it down again in 20 years time I've decided to leave the dents and scrapes as "history" (other wise known as lazy bugger's patina!).

Quick request for assistance while I'm thinking about it... does anyone have a schematic for the break lines on a LHD 109 Series 2A? My manual only has the RHD variant and it's one of those jobs I'd like to get onto before bolting more bits on that will get in the way i.e. the wings!

Cheers

Dave

Dave, an observation from the manuals I have (Haynes, Autobooks, and some Rovers North catalogs), and the machines I have worked on (my current '71 2a, and 2 different S3's, all 88's) is that the way the lines are run is the same on the left and right hand drive models, except that the lines to the master are extended across the upper firewall on the left hand drive models to reach the master - in other words, if you pretend you have RHD and use that map of the lines but instead of terminating at the master RHD location continue across to the LHD master location, that will match what the factory did.

I had thought about changing this to avoid the unnecessary run across the firewall on my rebuild, but then I bought the replacement line kit and although I'm not there yet I suspect they supply the lines etc. as from the factory so that is how mine will end up....

ps. I like your approach to the paint, I dislike body filler too and it looks just fine with it's new coat!

Thanks Frank, that's very useful info!

Which kit supplier did you end up going with? The ones from 3BLR in Ontario look alright and reasonably priced and I'm not to keen to make my own lines/fittings!

Cheers

Dave

A couple more photos of the paint job... next up is a coat of "RV white" on the van sides and roof, which is the closest I can find to Limestone without breaking the bank...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150513_082034_zpsqjiqo6sv.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150513_082057_zpssox44qrx.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150513_082106_zpsypmm4tpp.jpg

Dave, the brake line kit I got is the Automec (I believe the same as what 3 Brothers sell) - I got mine from Jeremy in North Vancouver. I did not relish the thought of possibly messing up and having leaky joins etc. .... :-)

For reasons not entirely known to me, I woke up on Sunday morning, had a cup of strong coffee, lit my first cigarette of the day and decided "today is the day I start pulling apart my gearbox..."

By 11 am I needed a beer and could not get any further without a 1/4 inch whitworth spanner so the job is on hold... Here are some pics of the "progress":

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150524_123002_zps0r7om1fd.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150524_132148_zpsizoqjbej.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150524_143821_zps1lyqrzyk.jpg

Here's where I had to stop - the "hi/lo" selector rod is connected with a 1/4 W bolt and a 9/16 is the closest I have but I don't want to risk rounding off the head...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150524_163250_zpsliks7wib.jpg

Box of bits for cleaning:
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150524_163322_zpsb76iqhzv.jpg

The bits I've inspected seem pretty good and there's no obvious signs of wear... the intermediate gear, shaft and washers are all good and the hi/lo selector gear looks fine. Main shaft end bearing seems OK to and everything turns freely.

I did notice that I don't have a spring on the yellow lever (4wd selector?) and it doesn't seem to do anything in the output housing when I push it up or down whereas the red lever clearly engages and disengages the hi/lo. Can anyone give me a brief rundown on how the yellow knob actually works. According to my manual, there's also supposed to be a little spring on the red lever ball, sitting in the groove. I don't have one of these, just some caked up mud - what does this spring do and will it need replacing?

I don't fancy getting into the actual gearbox bit too heavily as I think I'll get quickly out of my depth. Does anyone have any tips to look out for and a way of doing a quick inspection without pulling apart the main and lay shaft gears/bearings etc...?

I've never had the gearbox running but was told by the P/O that it was in good working order last he had the vehicle running (many moons ago). The fluid was nice and clean when drained but there was a little black sludge left in the pan - I did not notice any metal filings/shavings and turning the input shaft by hand results in a nice smooth action... My plan is to just tidy up, clean out and renew gaskets before dropping back in the vehicle but any "top tips" that I can use to check for obvious signs of impending doom would be much appreciated!

Dave, just on the Whitworth wrench thing - since a 9/16 is close (?), and 9/16 is 14.29 mm, would a 14mm wrench work? I may be confused here....

You're absolutely right mate but my metric wrench set tops out at 12mm... bought a 14mm wrench today and it did the job... iv found a set of whitworths for a good price for future use

Looks great Dave. Make sure to replace the main seal between the gearbox and transfer box. If you've not found any chipped teeth or metal shavings then leave well enough alone. Make sure the syncro ring has its 3 spring steel springs fitted and they are not deformed. You might want to remove the selector shaft detent springs and balls and clean any crud out of the bores (a magnet on a stick works well) a step further would be to remove the top selector shaft cover. Just note that the reverse selector spring(on the top under the brass plug) is a thicker spring than the 1/2 and 3/4 gear springs(located under those metal "L" brackets on the side.)
While you've got the transfer case separated measure the intermediate gear thrust spacing (measurements are in the book) the shafts easy to remove and the shims are cheap and easy to replace. Also check the pre load on the rear output shaft as well as now would be an easy time to adjust the shims under the speedo housing. If there are any wear lines on the output flanges a new oil seal will just start to leak after a few miles, you can try smoothing the surface with emery paper or replace with a better used flange.
Check the bronze bushing in the front output housing as it can disintegrate, it's the same part as the flywheel pilot bush so it's readily available.

Ok insomnia cured I'm off to bed!

Matt

Thanks Matt - some good tips there...

Do you recall where the bushing is on the output shaft housing? I've pulled mine apart and thoroughly cleaned it and I couldn't see one!

More pics:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150525_194426_zpstsiml8r4.jpg

Output shaft housing bits all cleaned up...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150525_192243_zpssgnqfjjc.jpg

4WD selector shaft and dog bracket... I noticed some corrosion and pitting around the spring and flange so dismantled this to give it a good clean - looks like this mechanism was seized due to lack of use and sitting without fluid for quite some time...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150525_195800_zpsulnyel1g.jpg

Tonight's task - clean up the transfer case and rear output housing. Gears all look good in there and turn freely so I won't be pulling them apart.

The bronze bush is in the end of the dog gear which engages the front driveshaft.

Not much progress has been made on the old girl but I did manage to get the wings on for a trial fit and the door alignments sorted...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150816_224258_zpsdsvtsmwc.png

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20150816_221029.png_zpstwgfhv9y.jpeg

New hardtop plus paint all around...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20160206_102714_zpsxw8kocjh.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20160206_102658_zpswqr3e3jk.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20160206_102624_zpsroxahxpz.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20160206_102731_zpsrcfgqqk4.jpg

Mike and Matt from Victoria came up to help on the Rover yesterday - it was a busy day and we made a ton of progress with the gearbox:

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20160304_163423_zpsrlwhgyes.jpg
Degreased and cleaned up main box

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20160304_154535_zpsqpe2ctoo.jpg
Small chip on 2nd gear - the rest of the box passed the Matt Mepham inspection so we decided to just do the oil seal and new gaskets before mating the box back to the transfer case...

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20160316_120649_zps9whpirz5.jpg
Reassembly

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/20160316_173707_zpsdsnm9pmb.jpg
All back together again - just waiting for a new front output seal and reinstall the clutch before dropping back into the truck.

Thanks for all your help Guys!

Looks great, and I like your wheels! The ride height seems just about right, too...

Had a burst of activity this week...
Steering relay back together again!
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Mobile%20Uploads/27ACC8BC-469B-4F65-B1E8-3085D3B198AC_zpsfiitqzfb.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Mobile%20Uploads/948951A7-B59E-4CAF-A4FC-724D1C2A8BBE_zpsrpk1xlaz.jpg

Gearbox ready for refitting...
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Mobile%20Uploads/61BFA4BD-CB2B-45FF-B071-39E5366E6325_zpszyjc2mk3.jpg

And safari rear door bolted on!
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Mobile%20Uploads/4407AD81-4A21-4F03-AE8E-200077BF4F8D_zpsiaf1ptgm.jpg

Looking good Dave!
Will she be ready for The Van Isle Rally in June??? :bounce:

I say no every year, but there is a real possibility that we'll be up and running for the van isle rally this year!

The Fellas at Sussex automotive in Parksville are taking care of some mechanical items for me while we move house.
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Mobile%20Uploads/33804DE0-2C5C-48EF-BDAD-E597097C9D05_zpsvvgflmn2.jpg

http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/Mobile%20Uploads/4BAE250F-EF14-4710-936B-7EC2B2EEF3F9_zpstlohbjgg.jpg

Well, yesterday was a very special day... for the first time in about 5 years the 2.25 petrol engine in the Landy was run, and for the first time in about 25 years the wheels on this vehicle have moved under its own power!

https://youtu.be/Us2eCz4eAKk

https://youtu.be/T-YlkS8EZTc

Some more pictures of progress...

Gearbox in
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_04551_zpsx23fxlvl.jpg

Brake/clutch lines, alternator in
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_04561_zpsqkrwpuy1.jpg

Hey Dave ..Great progress :spinning:

I have to say you are looking a lot older in the videos than I remember...... LR rebuilds will do that to you :occasion5:

A little video of the Rover hauling firewood around Horne Lake...

https://youtu.be/WrYoyPrgVzQ

Its runs and drives. Everything is held on with no more than one bolt, but its dun to get out there and actually use it!

Does anyone know how to upload photos without using photobucket?

Looks great Dave! I see it's plated now so hopefully we'll see it on the next outing!

I use imgur to upload my photos but there is a way to do it in the forum.

Yeah I guess I should add some background to that photo lol

I got the truck plated and insured about 6 weeks ago so have been driving it around the local area a fair amount, which has identified more bugs/wrinkles that need to be ironed out!

First up the hand brake was binding and locking up the wheels/transmission - fixed that use by slackening off the adjuster on the hand brake drum. After that little episode left me stranded on the side of the road (I always travel with at least vice grips now!) the front brakes started binding up... I bled the lines to relieve a bit of the pressure then slackened off the nuts on the master cylinder which worked for a while but I'm still binding slightly so will have to take a closer look at that. The front brakes are running quite hot so I haven't been driving it around much recently.... I'm not 100% convinced that my issues don't stem from poorly fitting brake shoes - remember a few pages back I had a really hard time getting the drums on over the shoes even with the adjusters backed all the way off... I hate dealing with taking shoes on and off but at some point I think I'm going to take off some of the metal where the shoes fits into the cylinder before I wear away all my lining!

Oh and I discovered that my driver side front bearing had completely disintegrated (see pics below) after less than 500 miles since installing. I blame myself more than the parts though - between running the brakes/hub hot and having a lose drive member over the winter that leaked oil out/water in I think I compromised the bearing. Still, I was quite surprised by how quickly it failed!


Toasted bearing:
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/31520FB3-94FF-40AF-99DB-93EDBA4747AB_zpswtsmrxbt.jpg

Lots of burnt brake dust!:
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/1CFFF60F-3FF6-43F7-A2D7-90EFE2771D20_zpsys0gbh0h.jpg

New lawn ornament:
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/256A143D-033E-4F81-AA02-28FC0D2D168B_zpswzh0hfmr.jpg

All buttoned up with new hubcap:
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_1446_zpsupuzo12z.jpg

Rear view:
http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r692/DrRangelove/IMG_1447_zpsdsllbpqu.jpg

Thanks Mepham55 (Matt) - adjusting the pushrod on the brake MC seems to have solved by brake binding issue... I had to wind the two nuts in quite a bit, at least half way up the threaded rod but it seems to have done the trick. Not sure how to gauge the 1/16" "free play" in the cylinder so I kind of eye balled it but I did the 20ish mile run into Parksville today from Horne Lake and the drums are no longer hot to the touch. The pedal is a bit softer than before and I'll need to adjust the snail cams a bit more once the shoes have bedded in (pulling to the right slightly with adjusters backed off fully) but I'm just happy I'm not cooking my brakes every time I drive it...

The front brakes are squealing quite a bit though - does anyone have any tips for eliminating this, or is it one of those things that goes away once the shoes have bedded in?

Cheers

Dave

Chamfer the leading edge of the shoe material on all shoes at a 45-degree angle. You may have glazed the brakes running them hot; a bit of a scuff with some 120 sandpaper on a firm sponge might help (shoes and drums - wear a mask). Don’t go bananas. Give the shoes and drums a good clean with brake cleaner. Triple-check all the adjustments listed in the service manual. Get one of those handwarmer things because it’s nice to have warm fingers while cursing 109 brakes.

Back on the Island after a year living in Toronto so thought I'd fire up the old Landy and give her a wash... After a quick manual priming of the fuel pump she came straight back to life!

Went for a quick shake down drive on the back roads and everything seems just like I left it a year ago...

If only they all started easily after sitting. :)

Welcome back!

Now listed for sale on the forum