The Rover-Landers of BC

Hi, thanks for letting me join. I'm not in BC but I used to live in Prince George so have a connection with your great province. I recently picked up a 56 109 that has been in my family since early 1970's. It has been sitting since 1990 and not driven.
I brought it home to Thunder Bay and I'm starting to make a list of repairs to get it back on the road. Surprisingly the frame ans bulkhead look to be in good shape some surface rust but seems solid. I think this is mostly stock and I do not think there are many miles on it as it was only used for hunting while my family owned it.
Thinking of a partial restore and getting it back on the road. I am going to pull it into the garage for the winter and see how far I can get with it. The engine was running before it was parked but considering taking it out and going through it, new valves, rings, gaskets etc.
Will need brakes, suspension, replace exhaust manifold, and lots of little items.
Though I would share and might ask some questions along the way.
Cheers
Keith

Awesome! If you need guidance, feel free ask me questions and to check out my ongoing build in the projects section titled "1958 Series 1 88" "red&red"". Also ANDYD has posted his full rebuild titled "1956 Series One Rebuild Project" which has helped me as I go along with my build.

Thanks, I had a read through your posts and the other one you mentioned. Lots of great information that will surely help me, thanks for posting your progress. I have been making a list of obvious things I will need and have started to find where I can source them. Seems like a few options but looks like most are out of the country.

Looking good.

FYI - Another great resource, and closer to you, is the Ottawa Valley LR Club (OVLR.ORG).

Hi, after getting some other projects completed moved the LR into the garage. A few nights of work and starting to remove some body panels. Starting to make a shopping list of what to replace.

Nice, that's a great start!
I see lots of history unfolding, lots of different paint colours, it looks like its had an exciting life!
Have fun, what a great winter project 8) (if your garage is heated)

Making some progress on the tear down. Next will open up engine and see what it looks like. Ordered parts to get suspension, brakes and steering back in shape. Frame looks in great shape. Will replace foot wells as they are starting to rust and a few holes appearing. Hope to paint the frame once I start working on suspension. So far so good.

Winter had arrived, so more time to spend in the garage.. Making some progress, engine is out, and have it down to the block and crank. I found a tag on the engine, looks like it was rebuilt at some point and bored .020 over. Cylinders still have some hatch marks so that is good news. Exhaust valves are a a tan color so not sure if they are original or have been replaced? Camshaft looks like it has some wear but not sure how much is too much. Parts are starting to show up for the suspension, brakes,steering and front end. Hoping to get front pulley off engine today and inspect the cam. Still debating if I need to remove crank and pistons or just clean up cylinder where carbon has built up.

Being that far in to the engine I think I would seriously consider pulling the crank, check the bearings, inspect the pistons and rings......never know if you have a spun bearing or a piston/ring issue......until you look.....

Given the apparent condition of the piston crowns, I expect that at a minimum you’ll need a new set of rings. 🧐

I decided to take it all apart. Got the timing gears off today and worked on the head. The valves were very stiff I had to tap them out as there was lots of carbon build up. Also cleaned the pistons and cylinder walls to assess. All looks good now but will know better when I get the pistons out. I hope to get the camshaft out tomorrow.

Hi Keith , just a word about the 2 litre camshaft. they are a weak point in the engine along with the tappets. I had mine reground back to factory spec. Colt Camshafts here in Aldergrove B.C. have the grinding profile for these cams although you could most likely find someone near to you that can do them also. When you put it back together , it's highly recommended to use a zinc additive in your oil to protect the flat tappets and cam. Cheers Robin

Hi Robin, thanks for the info, i just finished the total teardown this weekend and the cam and cam followers are worn down. I got pricing on a new cam and followers but yikes expensive from the UK. I was going to look into getting it re-ground but I wasn't sure this was possible with this ole gal. Are they able to rebuild the surface on the followers (tappets) as well?

Cheers Keith

I phoned Colt Cams for you yesterday and the price to bring your camshaft back to new is $275.00 but unfortunately he can't do the followers. I sent you a PM

I have several rocker levers, there are left, right, intake and exhaust I think. Which ones do you need. I also have 2 or 3 cams, but they are worn as usual. Post some pics and I will see if I have any better parts for you.

Appreciate the info and help. Attached are some photos of engine component's. Trying to sort out what to order and what to fix.. Depends how much my banker will allow. Have lots to work on over Xmas, want to get the final parts off and start to work on the front end. The cam followers almost all look like the ones posted. And most cam lobes show some wear.

More photos

That cam will regrind no problem, the guy Robin recommended is good. Craddocks sell the exhaust rochers 15-18 GBP each. I would put in a whole new set. The ones I have are worn also.

Thanks for all the info on the engine. I decided to get a new cam and the aftermarket rockers. Also ordered a new manifold , crank bearings, exhaust valves, conn rod bearings, and a few odds and ends. All the parts arrived yesterday. While waiting for the parts I pulled the front Diff and springs. Got the old chassis bushings out, that was fun. Found the front diff casing was damaged many moons ago and welded up. The inside casing was rubbing a bit on the crown gear. Not a big issue but going to get that fixed up. My father was visiting for a week at Xmas so we teamed up and worked a few days on the frame and foot wells. LOTS of cleaning of parts and frame so I can paint things up, soon I hope.
My father owned it for the last 30 years so he was keen to see it being fixed up.

There are some pretty good restoration YouTube videos available from Britannica Restorations in PQ.....the website is britrest.com
In-depth series on 2.25l petrol rebuilds and bulkhead restorations.....plus ++
A good resource.

I have a question about the serial numbers I’m hoping someone can shed some light on. I have been trying to find some info on this but cannot seems to search it up. The serial number on the bulkhead tag of my LR is 1246002515, i had a look for the number on the chassis rear spring left side and it is 124602742 I thought these 2 numbers would be matching for an original vehicle, but maybe not.

Serial should be on the passenger side front right in front of spring hanger.

It should match the vin plate.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On a 1956 109" the serial number is on the drivers rear spring hanger, not the front passenger.
The number on the bulkhead plate should be the same if it is originally from the same vehicle.
The number you mentioned on the bulkhead tag has one too many numbers.
I have 124602447.

Cheers

Hi, a bit of a clarification, my father told me the VIN number on the old registration/insurance card matched the bulkhead tag (it is not close the numbers after 1246 are way off???). I had removed it and stored it away for the rebuild. I pulled it out to double check (should have done that first) The Chassis number on the rear just above the left spring does match the bulkhead number although someone added 2 numbers to the bulkhead tag (stamped an 03 behind it?).
The problem now lies in the registration card from 1990's does not match the Vin number of the vehicle.
The good news is the bulkhead and chassis match which is what I had suspected as the vehicle has been in the family since 1970's.

Have been spending a few hours in the garage over the last couple weeks. Most of the work has been on the engine. Cleaned the block and cleaned the block.. Paint went on very well. Worked on the head, cleaned it up and flat sanded the face. Cut the valve seats and lapped all valves. Ordered new exhaust valves so got those paired with the block. Honed the cylinders they look pretty good now. Spent time inspecting the new conn rod bearings and setting the clearances. Switched to crank bearings and all seems in order. Installed the new rings on pistons. So ready to start reassembly. Has been fun and lost of elbow grease cleaning parts.

Looking good, bringing back memories of my 1956 S1 engine rebuild. I learnt a lot about all the different pistons and piston rings they used between 1955 and 1957 :shock:

Good time to change out the old rusty core plugs if you haven't done so already.

Cheers,
Andy

Hi Andy,
Your posts have been helping me a lot, interesting to look through your photos and info you included.
I have installed the pistons, crank, camshaft, rockers (ended up with Cox and Turner rebuilds), and valves. I hope to get the rest completed this weekend.
Have to wait for a few parts from the UK to finish it off. Found one crank bolt was belt slightly, when putting the cap on it would move back and forth. Luckily I caught this before install new bearings or it might have ruined one set upon tightening.

The engine was rebuilt in the 70's after what looks like #2 piston failed, the head still has some scars but should be ok and it was not out of shape.
I will post some more photos in a few days.

I looked at the core plugs, they were replaced at some point as they are not stock, Dorman brand. So I did not replace them as they appeared ok. One hole had a block heater installed so I am replacing this one, with another block heater. It gets chilly in this part of Ontario. Not planning much winter driving but might be good to have just in case.

Lost of parts to clean and paint, even the wife is helping me!!

Cheers.

It's definately winter in Ontario now, cold outside so glad to work inside. The engine is almost done except I need a couple small parts that were not included in gasket sets ( just found that out). The fiber rings for the thermostat and the o ring and little copper tube between the water pump and housing on the head. Will place yet another order lol.
One question is I have a new rear main oil seal the large split one. There is also a cork gasket in the set I have.
I suspect the cork gasket is for another type of seal. Any advice on this.
Cheers all.

Hi, your making great progress!

I believe depending on the year of the engine there was two different types of seals.
1954 had the cork type seal with a metal oil retainer cap
1955-58 had the rubber style like yours
I expect both types are in your kit just to cover all the years. So likely surplus to your needs

You'll find the little cork strips a little tricky, take your time not to rip them on installation.

have fun!
Andy

Thanks for the information, I suspected this but the old oil seal had a slight indent in it which looked to match the cork gasket. Maybe there was a paper one in there? Anyhow the new seal should go on fine once I remove it from the engine stand. I was able to get the cork t's in using a couple small pieces of malemine with a slight bit of oil and a clamp. Head went on and adding remaining parts, just need to wait for the few bits I missed ordering and not in the gasket kit.
Shifting focus to the gearbox. It wouldn't shift into 3rd and forth. Found the a 3rd-4th synchro spring was slipped sideways. Will buy some new ones to replace these.
Making progress slowly..

The gearbox is apart with all the components. Found some metal at the bottom of the gearbox. Suspect it is a retaining clip from intermediate shaft.
All looks good but not sure how to assess the bearing.
Also found a chip in gear in the transfer case. I did not find the broken tooth so think this was an old wound that was not addressed. I will look into ordering a new gear.
Now debating if I should remove the mainshaft. I have a press, not sure if I should use it for this. I tried a fee blows with a hammer to see if it moved but nothing budged.

Well, if your gearbox is like mine, it will definitely need a full strip! I have a pretty long parts list. I am glad I stripped mine, I found quite a few issues. Originally I looked at the workshop manual and thought 'nah' due to it looking kinda complicated.

In the end, it's not too bad at all. You'll need some stout circlip pliers, a rubber mallet, and a brass drift.

Oh, and lots of Ziploc bags for parts.

I was able to strip most of it down, stopped at mainshaft removal. Looks like I was a bit luckier with this one. One gear with a chipped tooth and the retaining washer mentioned already are the only items needed. All bearings seem fine and everything is in order. Will order the two parts and wait to reassemble. In the mean time will clean and paint the components. I already took the hand brake apart. The mounting plate was bend, used the press and straightened it out. I will need to re shoe the brakes but the other parts will come back to life.
Half shaft were rebuilt last night and cut the old pan off the front diff. It was pretty damaged so I will replace it.

If you havent found it yet there is a great Youtube channel for the S1 restoration with great humour and really good info.
He went into all the strip down and pitfalls of the Series 1 gearbox, transfer box (and much more). The whole series of S1 restoration videos are great entertainment and when your sick of working on yours a great way to get a smile back on your face :lol:


Cheers
Andy

That's a good one Andy
Just watched the first two episodes......Oh MY!!!!
No shoes, using feet as 3rd and 4th hands. HILARIOUS.
Certainly gives an entertaining overview of restorations.
Worth a look......YES!!

I have checked out some of his videos, VERY entertaining to watch for sure. Aside from that some very valuable info!

Real work got in the way for a while but back at it.. Frame is completely painted now happy with the results. Used POR 15 and Chassis paint, seemed to stick very well with proper prep.
The gear box is back together, just need to put the hand brake on and waiting for a couple small parts. It seemed like a difficult job but it wasn't once I got into it.
Waiting on a few front end parts and that will be back together. Decided on new swivel balls, tried to fix up old ones but gave up and bit the bullet.
Just need to finish painting rear axle and that can go back in with new springs.
Foot wells are refitted, just need some primer on them. Tested my MIG welding skills, still.lots to learn in that area but satisfied with the results.
I purchased an ultrasonic cleaner! That thing is amazing helped clean lots of parts and return them to newish looking.
Working on Carb now but hit a snag. Looks like the correction Jet was broken off. I thought it looked odd but cleaned the carb up and was reassembling and upon inspection of the parts manual seems like it is broken off. Not sure if the purpose of this jet but that could explain the heavy carbon I found in the engine. First picture is what I see, second photo is the jet that came in the rebuild kit, but nothing to screw it into. Also think I need a 240 not a 170.
If someone can confirm what I think is missing that would be appreciated.
Guess it is another purchase looking for a carb body!!¡@$&%*.

My father has taken a shine to this project after owning it for 30 years. He is going to make a third trip to visit (7.5 hr drive one way) and spend another week with me to make some progress.
Well back to cleaning and painting.

That’s a common problem with the Solex carb. The emulsion tube holder gets brittle and the jet snaps off. You can heat it up and pull it out if you can find a replacement holder.
This place has them: https://www.partsklassik.com/p-1375-emu ... older.aspx

Matt

Thanks Matt, that might be the cheapest solution. Just need to see if I can get the old one out. Parts catalogue didn't show that as a seperate part.

I was able to get the emulsion tube holder separated from the carb body. I am looking at ordering a new one. My engine is a 1956, the catalogue indicates a 240. I have a 170 and 180 but the 240 size seems hard to get.
I am considering drilling one of the ones I have to 2.4mm assuming that is the correct size.
Any recommendations on this approach?

Well all my wire brushes are getting worn out! I have been spending most of the last few weeks, cleaning, repairing, rebuilding and painting components. It just had to be done and I'm almost running out of parts to work on. Steering is rebuilt all except the steering box in the frame, it seems tight. Brake components are rebuilt, just master cylinder left. Sand blaster the rims and mounted the new tires. Replaced the swivel ball races and the top pins as the old ones were damaged. Lots of little parts have been cleaned and prepped for reinstall.
The bulk head is coming along hope to prime it shortly. I have 6 days off so will be working hard to get as much done this weekend as I can.
Have been happy with the paint and the color on the rims look great. Went with Paintman Dove Grey, covered the rims then added a coat of clear 2k.

A few more photos.

Awesome work!

Well after a 7 day Easter marathon some progress was made thanks to help from my dad, it is back on wheels!!
Started to tackle the front end as I had all the parts now. A few hiccups along the way. I replaced the top steering pins and that took a little work to get them good and tight with new pins to secure them to the arm.
Time for new swivel balls and front end bearings, making good progress then what are those shiny things, half shafts!!! They should go in! Luckily I did not get that far.
Sorted out the stub hub and new bearings/seals on the hubs. Then came the brakes. A little swearing and they were installed.

Next up was the rear Diff and springs. All went in straight forward with new brakes, one old cylinder I rebuilt, I hope. And a new Cylinder, they are 3 stud cylinders for a semi floating rear. A pricey bugger abut the old one was damaged and there was actually a ball bearing installed in the line so it was not being used.
All good they went back on and just need to compress the rear shocks lower bushings, have to borrow a big C clamp from my buddy.
After this time to tackle to brake lines, and Master Cylinder. The Master was rebuild and seemed to go A OK. Brake lines installed (old ones seemed to be in good shape) and new fasteners to hold them in place.
Completed the final touches on the bulk head and time to test my paint spraying technique. One coat went on looked great. Let it dry and then wait for a 2nd coat.

Next up the Gear box, after installing new o rings to the shifting forks I decided to test the shifting. WTF will not go into 3 and 4. Apart came the front end and what do you know the 3-4 synchro was in backwards, I now remember reading that somewhere!!! Anyway the LR Gods were smiling and it went together like nothing, not sure how it happened but took less than 1 hr and it was back together. Then on the the shifting levers and the hand brake, I cleaned all those parts (did I mention ultra sonic cleaner, thank goodness) and rivetted new liners. Back together it went, might have taken a couple beers but wasn't too difficult.
Time to drop it in the frame with new mounts. Went pretty smooth!

Next day time to put a second coat on bulkhead, went pretty well except one area on the foot well didn't look well, orange peel look. Have to do some more homework on spraying.
While that's drying, Engine time again. Lifted it off the stand and start to work on oil shaft and timing. I hope I got that i nth e right spot. Then all the odds and ends I did not do as I had to get the shaft installed and the engine of the stand. Next was oil pan, exhaust manifold, side cover etc. The short bell housing and fly wheel now back on time to slap the clutch plate on. One bolt was pretty rough, luck would have it I bout some BSF bolts that size so grabbed one. but could only get three turns in and stuck. Dam threads in the flywheel are buggered!!!! I was going to buy a BSF Tap and Die set, came back to haunt me. So now what wait for a tap or????
While that was going on, I lightly sanded the bulk head problem area and sprayed some new paint on it, looks like it went on well. not 100% happy with my abilities yet but think I will get it.
Decided to tap a 8mm bolt for the plate, bought a high grade bolt and a good tap and cleaned up the threads and in it went. I could not wait!!!

Then noticed the new boot I bought for the bellhousing clutch outlet did not look right, put it in incorrectly, boy that was a job to get it in the right spot but was successful.
Finally the engine is back in it's old home, the frame and mated to the gear box.. Time for a Jagger!!!!!!
Pictures to follow, thinking I should change the title to FULL rebuild as it started as partial but now its full on.

Pics

More

:D

Sorry no recent updates, I have let this slip over the last few weeks. I set a very tight timeline and hope to have it finished by early Jun as my family is coming to visit from out of province for my daughters high school grad. Heck if done she might even drive it to her graduation, will be the coolest ride there!

I have been working non stop on this project in hopes to complete it (although I have a real job as well to pay for all the parts). As it stands now the exhaust is in, wiring has been replaced, all except the signal loom. I made a mistake ordering and I was missing the signal switch loom I called Autosparks and they told me I should have ordered the option when placing the original order. They told me what I needed and it was going to be 2-3 weeks to make it. I was surprised when it showed up the following week, but that excitement quickly disappeared when I realized they sent me the wrong items. The person I talked to talked me out of ordering what I thought I needed! Long story short an email with some photos and they are shipping me FREE of charge the right loom to finish this off. Very happy with their customer service!!!
Working on lots of small parts, almost running out of bags and parts are going back on. Hand Brake in place with new pads. Prop shaft rear in place. Body parts next, need a rad and lower cab. Sanding and prepping lets try my paining again. This time I seemed to figure out how much to spray. Very happy with the results so far.
With these items replaced it was time to start the engine, nervous and excited all at the same time. New battery in place, decided on Negative ground, careful check and double check wiring. Hook up the battery and no smoke, good sign. I ran the starter a bit to circulate the oil. Then put new plugs in and lets try it! Oh no, what did I do wrong? Start checking timing and wiring, no spark. Ok check coil must be that. Bought a new one as easy to find a local supplier, determined I missed a washer in points so it was grounded out, fixed that now have spark. Tray again the next day still no go almost runs but barely firing, must be timing. Start pulling things apart, determined I put the shaft in 180 deg out, I though I double checked that, Anyway make the change but the rotor still not seem to look right. My plug wires were out, I replaced them according to the photos from the tear down. But they had the wires 1/4 turn counter clockwise on the dist cap. Move them and put it all back together. Hold breath and push the button!! Bam fires right up, oil pressure 55. Awesome very pleased.

Still having some problems and a list starting and hope to cross them off one day at a time.
Bleeding brakes has been a challenge, had to power bleed them and let them sit a day them try again, find a little air each day. Getting close to having a pedal.
Dynamo does not seem to work, just pulled it off and hooked a 12 V battery to it, it wants to spin but will not move more than 1/4 turn.
Oil leaking on top banjo bolt at back of head, I have 2 copper washers but suspect they are hard and not sealing (need new ones)
Need to fine tune the timing as not running great when off choke. It idles but does not accelerate great, I will perform timing setting according to manual and then go forward, hope it is not a carb issue?

Working on mechanical items between sanding and fixing body parts.
I have 4 weeks left and working hard at it, I will not cut corners to get it done but think it is still possible.
Wish me luck and stay tuned.

:D

:bounce:

You are making pretty fabulous progress...good job!!!
Mike at Britannica Restorations has a series 1 engine rebuild YouTube series.....timing can be tricky....this one is fairly recent.
Re the banjo head connection copper washer issue. If you don't want to go down the rabbit hole search for one that will work try annealing the one you have.
Stuart

Thanks, has been many hours of work. I will have a look at at those videos. I set the timing better tonight just need to get a new generator so I can run it again. I took mine apart tonight and it doesnt seem worn out just will not produce voltage.
Thanks for the tip on the copper washers I will try and anneal them and hope it seals it up.

My Master Cylinder might be buggered, I cannot get this thing to hold pressure. I have all the air out after many attempts, I have all cylinders clamped so they do not move and can still slowly push the pedal all the way to the floor?? I rebuilt the master but maybe it was too far gone?
Not sure what options I have convert to a series 2. Will have to investigate.

Maybe I missed it, but did you re flash the generator? That could be all that is causing it to not charge. Simple fix if that is it.

Is the master cylinder unit the original Girling?? or an aftermarket??
I have found through discussion in a number of other Land Rover Club sites that the "aftermarket master" cylinders can be really a "hit and miss" game.
Kind of a pretty critical component to play Russian roulette with.
Also, there are numerous documents put out by Girling as to brake bleeding on front and rear brakes. When I read them what I thought worked is not the official procedure.
Would be worth a search. I'll see what I have and send them to you.....apologies if what I send you already know and have.
LAST RESORT....
If the MC is the original Girling send it to Whitepost Restorations in VA and have them rebuild it. Guaranteed and better than original.
Stuart

Hi thanks all for the responses.
The generator I tried flashing it, no luck then removed it and applied power to do a motor test, did not move very much, so stripped it down, brushes looked good, cleaned all surfaces and put it back together, motor test performed but turns very slow and laboring? Not like the videos I have watched.

The MC is an original as far as I know. I put new seals in, the inside looked ok no rust or pitting.
Stuart if you have any more info I would gladly review it!!
I disconnected the exit from the MC today and installed an old brake line I soldered, MC still full of fluid. The brake pedal was instantly firm no movement, no leaking, so assume my MC rebuild is ok. I am going to isolate the front and back with my soldered line, bleed and check, or ???
Wish me luck

Check out "expeditionlandrover.info"....TeriAnn's website with a ton of information. Somewhere on her site is a brake setup/bleed procedure.
I cannot find it amongst all the other info but it is there.
I have attached a Girling tech document.

Not sure if you have a workshop manual but Section P-13 and P-14 (in the series 2 manual) is a good resource.
I don't think much changed from S1 to S2 re the "dynamo"

Just as an aside I have added a few photos of the original Girling hydraulics from my '59....they were seized and pretty rough.
I should have them back from VA in about a week. I'll give you an update once I receive them as reference.
Stuart

Stuart,

Thanks for the information I will have a closer look at it. I did remove my MC after another attempt to bleed the brakes and found after very close inspection, that the inner large seal has a tear/hole in it. This makes sense with what was happening as I would get some pedal pressure then it seemed like the pedal would slowly move to the floor. I must have damaged the seal when installing the new components. Arrrr frustrating but at least I believe this to be the source. I will review what you sent to help with the next attempt when I get a new seal kit. My MC was in quite a bit better shape than the photos you sent, that looks like it will take a bit to get them back in service.

The Generator is going to require attention as I was able to spin it at 4000 RPM and can only get 10.5 VDC out of it.
I annealed the copper washers and then sanded them flat with fine sandpaper on a glass plate. I also found the banjo bolt had a few burrs on the flat engine side of the bolt head, so I files those off and then carefully reinstalled that to ensure I did not reintroduce the burrs to the bolt. I hope this will resolve the leak.

Back to the body work as I wait for more parts. The rest of the wiring will be delivered tomorrow so looking forward to finishing that portion.
Also received the proper ownership from my parents today. I discovered that the ownership they had was the wrong serial number and the wrong year. It was listed as a 1957 and the serial number was way off not just a misread number (Last plated in 1989) . It took 4 months to get this corrected with Manitoba's Gov, so now I can register it in Ontario with the correct paper work.

I have a 24 day deadline to have it on the road.

Keith
That is a bit of a conundrum re the dynamo....on P-13 there is a section pertaining to the commutator could be part of the problem.

You may already consul the series2.co.uk site which I find quite informative. Sorry in advance if I am offending anyone referring to another clubs site....some of the members have WAY too much knowledge and are happy to share.
That being said a recent post pertains to brake cylinders and the use of "rubber grease" you may want to check that out.
Click on workshop wisdom and scroll to LWB front brakes by Gareth.
Stuart

Another quick update. Had a productive weekend. Rebuilt the pork pie tail lights, used some tint on the lenses and then clear coated. Happy with results.
Have been trying my luck with body work, the front wings were in very rough shape. They should look better than when I started.
Also got one coat on the cab, lucky this was in good shape so some sanding, primer and first coat on.
Making some headway. Days are ticking by.
New generator should be here tomorrow along with master cylinder seal .

Awesome, keep it going ...
Reading through your "challenges" reminds me of going through very similar scenarios. It will be all worth it it the end and you will know the vehicle inside and out.

Looking great 8)
Cheers
Andy

Thanks Andy, It has been a challenge but making headway.
I ended up with a Master cylinder rebuild kit again, I installed new seals and put it back in place. Still problems with getting a pedal. I was able to talk with Peter at 3Brothers. After some discussion on what was going on he recommended a replacement Master as I do not have time to get this one rebuilt. Luckily he had one in stock.
Also I ended up getting a new Dynamo and was excited to get this in place and finally charging. Well more disappointment, the new generator did not work, ARRRRR.
Took it back out and bench tested it, only producing 3-4 VDC. I did notice the F terminal was loose so not sure what was causing the issue? Back on the phone with 3Brothers. AS luck would have it they had brushes in stock for a C40 (my old Gen).
They helped me out with overnight shipping of brushes and a new Master Cylinder so I could get to work for the weekend.

Happy to report the brushes worked on my old Gen I put them in flashed the gen and it was putting out 19V at high idle.
Next Master cylinder - installed that and noticed my return line was damaged after too many times on and off. I got a new one and installed it, then start the bleeding AGAIN. At the end of the night I finally had a bit of a pedal. Not complete but thought just a little air left somewhere. I then clamped the lines off and tested the MC it was pretty hard, I released one at a time and seemed the passenger front was the problem. I thought maybe the top cylinder might still have air as it was new, so I loosened the line where it enters instead of bleeding the lower cylinder. Low and behold some air bubbled out, could it be might it be fixed. It was midnight and time to let it rest. Next morning back to bleeding (all the way around) and sure enough a few more air bubbles showed up, leave it a couple hours and come back. By the end of the day I think I FINALLY have brakes. I unclamped all the brake shoes and installed the drums and adjusted the shoes. After turning them a bit and working the brake pedal they are all set. Boy that was one hell of a process. A few beers died trying to solve this one.
With that resolved I needed to look at the voltage regulator, I printed out the Lucas test guide and a buddy came over to see what I was working on. We worked through the tests as my warning light was staying on the and the Ammeter was not showing any action. I installed a new regulator that was included in a box of parts I got with the LR. After a few adjustments all was good and it was charging the battery, that was easy. I just needed to swap the wires on the Ammeter so it would show a charge instead of discharge. I carefully swapped the wires, and noticed a small spark as I hooked up the brown wire, (it was getting late and I should have disconnected the battery my fault). But all good, until my buddy yells smoke???? He was standing by the battery and popped the terminal off as I had it just fit loosely (lucky he was there as all this only took 2 seconds). The regulator was smoking, WTF??????
We started checking things and could not find a dead short anywhere? It was midnight and time to give up, didn't sleep good.
Next morning I reassessed, wiring looked ok, regulator smelled a bit, hmmm what happened. I decided that a fuse on the Brown main wire is required as a just in case for the future, installed that and removed the regulator. I grabbed the old one that it came with and put it back on. After carefully checking all the wiring again, I put a amp meter inline from positive terminal to the battery and 0 amps. Ok pop the battery cable on, all good, turn the key, still all good, push the starter and it came to life. No smoke and the battery is charging, I suspect the new regulator (sitting in a box for 40 years????) was faulty.
With that resolved I needed to get this thing running better, timing or carb??
It is popping out of the carb and will not rev properly. Seemed like it was running too lean.
I took the carb off to check it over again. The first time I cleaned and rebuilt it I thought I had done a good job. Off it came and disassembled again, cleaned it out with carb cleaner and ensured all passaged clean. I did notice some problems with the gaskets so made new ones and sanded all the surfaces flat (they needed some work). I installed to old float as the new one seemed a slightly different size.
I reinstalled the carb and crossed my fingers. Fired it up and bingo it ran great, revved up and no popping.
That resolved my biggest mechanical problems!!!
Back to the body work.
Cab back on, Front wings on with rebuilt lights, put parts back on the hood.
I need to assemble doors and minor repairs to the tub (then paint) and put that back on.
Lots of little loose ends to resolve, I have about 10 days to get this completed I might make it!

Pics

Well made it, got it on the road last week. Had to work my butt off but 99.9 percent done. Just need to finish tailgate and a few odds and ends.
Very happy with the result and it seems to run great. Have put on about 50 miles so far and fixing small snags. I guess I can call it a complete rebuild as it definately was not partial lol.

Thanks for all the assitance along the way!

:D

Congrats, great job! :occasion5:

She/Her/Him/He/It is looking awesome 8)