The Rover-Landers of BC

For those interested I had good success rebuilding the front suspension valve block. The front end was dropping a little overnight so I took a crack at it and saved a few bucks. after opening up the valve block I noticed lots of white powder. this was from the broken down desiccant from the old compressor. a quick clean up of the internals and new O-ring lube and she no longer leaks.

also changed the rear sway bar bushings which got rid of the notorious clunk from the back end.

Hi Reza,

Its good to hear that you have been successful in rebuilding some of these newer Land Rover parts. Gives us all some hope that these Land Rovers have some future 20 years down the road!

I have moved this thread over to Projects and Builds as per your suggestion...

Keep us updated with your trials and tribulations ...

Cheers, Andy

Blown out front wheel bearing:

a few thousand miles of a whining noise getting louder with time finally showed what I had spent so much time trying to diagnose. sometimes its easier to let something fail than trying to figure out what it could be. Parts are available from Napa but you can get the same thing from E-bay for a third of the price if you can wait. The bearing is replaced as a complete hub unit. The job took less than 3 hours on a gravel driveway with basic tools.

Alternator replacement:

Back to another whining noise that is hard to diagnose. Using the old trusty wooden dowel to the ear method I could hear the culprit sound coming from the alternator bearing. A rebuilt alternator can be had for under $250 shipped to your house with a 3 year warranty. I used a company out of Surrey called YMX auto parts and they delivered the alternator to my door on the island the next day.:shock:A+

This is a very easy job that took just over an hour to do. all you need is to disconnect the battery, remove the lower passenger side shield from the engine bay, and take the serpentine belt off. three mounting bolts 13mm and the battery cable 13mm and the connector plug and she is out. give the tensioner and idler pulley a spin while the belt is off to make sure the bearings are still in good shape.


Rear light guards:

I installed a set of Brit Part aftermarket light guards on the LR3. Most of these guards require that you drill a couple of holes in the body behind the light. After doing a trial fit I noticed that the light guard will stay firmly in place just by the tension of the outer bracket against the back of the light. Only the two inner screw brackets near the tailgate are required to hold it in place. So far I have had no issues with shifting or movement. This makes replacing bulbs much easier as you only have to remove the 2 normal screws to take out the light housing and the guard will just come off with the light.