The Rover-Landers of BC

Hi,

My name is Don and I've always had a soft spot for Land Rover's, mostly the Defender. When I first saw one in action, I knew I had to get one but when I found out Defender prices, the interest died down.

It was still there but not as pronounced until recently.

I was browsing around, searching random ads and here it was, not a Defender, but a Land Rover nonetheless.

For 40 years old, it was 85k miles so that's pretty good so I definitely had to check it out and see.

Did the appropriate research and found that these have aluminum panels and a steel chassis so that was my main thing to watch out for.

First saw it, it was awesome. No chassis rust, leaks like all Rover's do but not much, and runs rough because it's been sitting for a while.

He drove me around and bam, bought it after.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 3040_o.jpg

Plan to restore it enough to do some trails for now and we'll see where he takes me. I'd love to go on a long-term expedition with the LR but have to dependable first.

The former owner calls him 'Garth' so I'll continue the tradition.

---

So after buying Garth, I immediately got him insured and registered.

Insurance had trouble finding the car in the database and double-checked the short VIN but got it registered! She said to have fun because you're gonna need it. :rofl:

After that, it is off to safety inspection:

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Other than few minor issues and the necessity of a new muffler, Garth is safe enough to be considered roadworthy. :thumbsup:

So in the back, it came with:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 3755_o.jpg

- Random bolts
- Rear seats
- Roll cage
- Soft top
- Tailgate
- Jack
- 40 years of random dust, dirt, crap, etc.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 6655_n.jpg

Man up!

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Interior shots

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Couldn't figure out this funk that the truck had and when I was vacuuming, I found it. It was a dead robin wedged in the seat.

After I got that out and aired it, no more stank!

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The 2.25L petrol engine with a Weber carb and working electrics. SCORE.

Nothing like Spray Nine and WD40 to clean things up.

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Installed the bench seats after and will make the left ones.

So the truck right off the bat, runs rough. Idles rougher than a tractor engine should, felt like it didn't get enough air, and the timing was off.

So time for a tune-up!

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Spark plugs make a BIG difference. FACT.

TRS (The Rover Shop) was closed so no oil change yet as I'd like to replace the gasket in the oilpan as well.

Cleaned the undercarriage with this stuff (also added Lucas Fuel Treatment in the tank):

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 0253_o.jpg

The results speak for themselves:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 9821_o.jpg

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Also bought an oilpan gasket, service manual, and upgraded coil/electronic ignition for a better spark. The Rover Shop Calgary recommended to do this mod to go with the oil change as a must-do modification to make life easier.

I also upgraded the horn to twins as the old one was pathetic. GTFO, bitches! :thumbsup:

On that note, hope my build thread will bring joy to people and possibly assistance when I need it, because I will.

Also, what have you noticed in my pictures that aren't original, other than the twin choke carb?

Oil change was completed while I was gone and leakage is gone for now!

Back from vacation and immediately went to my Rover store to get more parts!:

- Original tail lights assembly
- Speedo cable
- Rear door lock
- Brake fluid cap

Ordered the side markers, amber lights, and will be on the lookout to see if I can fix the reverse lights. License plate light works after cleaning the contact points.

Any ideas on how to fit a Weber carb snorkel? Was thinking a custom airbox then a random kit to fit it together...

Will be doing a brake fluid flush and cleaning that bracket as mentioned by JBriggs over the weekend as the coolant fluid was replaced yesterday. Still waiting for ze muffler!

---

Returned the electronic ignition and put the points system back on but kept the new coil. Running majestically now!

Random question but anyone know the fuel tank capacity on these things?

EDIT:

Here's the front axle.

The left swivel joint leaks and there's a weird bracket for what looks to be a stabilizer... Not sure yet:

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Gearbox and diff oil has been replaced! Just needs new gaskets and filler plugs to make things less leaky. Looking good, Garth!

Today was removing a rust contaminated side step and sprayed the left swivel joint with GUNK.

Used a whole can and elbow grease,

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 9872_n.jpg

30 years of sludge right there.

It looks relatively clean after...

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Must open past the swivel gaiter to see how the ball joint is doing. Pretty clean from the last picture, I must say.

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New brass plugs for the diff were put on today and a gearbox gasket to be fitted over the weekend. This is what the old ones looked like,

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 8197_n.jpg

Hit a minor issue today.

So I finally(!) got the new exhaust system from Britain:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 6878_n.jpg

I love hatchbacks. :love:

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Removed the old system out today. Bolts got too rusty so we just ground it out using a grinder and snapped it out.

However, fitment looks snug...

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Not really 'snug'; 'tight'. It bolts on like it should but the bend is off...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 2071_n.jpg

Also, one of the bolts won't lock so hit a snag and will continue on the weekend.

---

Well, my dad helped me out today and he just say, 'forget it' and just bolted it on. The muffler is installed, rattles against the chassis but whatever.

The engine is tractor-y enough to cover muffler rattle. :rofl:

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Next up is the swivel balls, exterior lights that were bought, gearbox gasket, and figure out why it's leaning to the left side.

We're having a debate on whether it's the shocks or the leaf springs that are the culprit.

Also, 235/80/16 rubs against the chassis when turning right but not left. Steering alignment perhaps or the tires are just too big?

Bought Prestone synthetic DOT 4 brake fluid for a possible flush tomorrow. Is this sufficient? It's the only fluid available.

-----

Sunday was interesting, indeedy!

Random thing found today: a block heater! Don't know if it works yet...

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Cleaned the undercarriage somewhat with Spray Nine and pressure washing.

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Swivel joint inspection time!:

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So we started adding swivel grease in to find out where it leaked and it wasn't hard to find it :rofl:. The grease pushed out this watered down oil mixture so it was like a flush on its own :

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 1150_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 8708_n.jpg

Ball joint looks pristine!

The leather gaiter doesn't have holes or tears but it was just poor installation from the previous owner. Refolded the leather, tightened the bolts and the leak subsided from 'gushing' to 'drip'.

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The right one wasn't leaking because it was bone dry. Used leftover grease to start pushing out the old oil and the leak is in the same spot!

Same deal; readjust the leather gaiter and it's less leaky.

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Exterior lights were also replaced:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 8726_n.jpg

Looking good! Brake fluid flush and gearbox gasket were not addressed but there's always another day. :thumbsup:

----

Received my oil analysis from Blackstone Laboratories on the original oil before the change to Pennzoil High Mileage 5W30:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 3149_n.jpg

Good start to the weekend!

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Cleaned the air filter but sourcing out the original oil bath air filter.

Meanwhile, the gearbox got a new gasket mounted:

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CB antenna is mounted now with an aluminum extension:

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Enjoyed the best upgrade so far:

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So relaxing to drive now! :clap:

---

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This is a Series IIA, with a lot of mods to list.

Met up with someone from the Alberta Land Rover Enthusiasts (ALRE) Club and passed on words of wisdom. For example, he informed me that my engine is more than likely a military rebuild, the leaf springs will always lean and just need spray graphite, how to change the main gear with just 6 screws, and how he custom machined his fuel tank for 120L!

I am a wiser man today.

EDIT: Also put new speedo cable in but still dances so definitely needs a new speedometer but really, my smartphone can do it for me and that's how I found out my top speed is 97kph lol.

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These are for next week; more gear oil for the overdrive, swivel joint grease, and new engine/gearbox mounts.

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I learnt a trick from a fellow Land Rover enthusiast on how to prolong the life of leaf springs; spray graphite!

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Before spray graphite...

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After spray graphite. Made sure the lubricant wicked its' way in-between the leaves.

My LR Series is a North American version so the hardest parts to replace are those huge amber lights. Light guards are now installed!

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The rear ones are also huge so the stock tail guards won't fit so I spliced one of the front guards in half.

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Left hub is leaking. UGH.

And last-minute mods...

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I'll be installing jate rings next week as that's the proper device and I'll leave them there for now.

Went off-roading for the first time ever today to Waiparous Trail with buddies.

Garth went through the trail with ease but we didn't continue past the meadow because the mud got way too soft,

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High range and low range works well and after going through my first run, I don't feel like I need any more mods; just maintenance and recovery prep gear. When I went through, I didn't feel like I needed lockers or a winch but then again, it was an easy trail.

The Land Rover went through the mud with ease thanks to the tires and I'll probably just get another set of wheels/tires for winter if these suck in the cold.

A jerry can will solve my small fuel tank issue and other than that, he's good to go!

Pressure washed the truck after the run so no mud will stick but the WD40/graphite grease I sprayed yesterday worked wonders:

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It was raining hard but it calmed down a bit after:

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Here's a video of Garth in action:

http://s113.photobucket.com/user/dj_fli ... 2.mp4.html

Party on, Garth!

So I went to my local 4WD parts store to get advice on where to put front recovery points.

The best option that they had for me was a suggestion to fabricate a beefier bumper to support that much force. Still unsure of what to do but the tie-downs are the best last-resort option I have right now,

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 1917_n.jpg

Bought a rear recovery hitch for the back,

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 5457_n.jpg

Also went to pick up a vintage plate I bought locally,

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Garth was driving fine and literally, 200m away from my house, the transmission just went 'clunk' and disengaged in the middle of the street. :cry: :banghead:

Nothing fell out, no BIG leaks, so must be an internal issue and I can't open it up right now since it's dark.

Thankfully, locking hubs and 4WD high range still worked. Drove it in 2WD front safely.


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Picking up the bits and pieces of the carnage inside. It's not the diff teeth but the shaft.

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Closer look at the Weber twin choke.

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Weird adaptor-welding contraption going on here.

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So we found a fuel pump...

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That leads to a reservoir that feeds the carburetor but have no idea if it's pumping fuel or not.

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Does this serial # mean anything? Tried looking to determine if it's a 3 or 5-bearing 2.25L but no serial # near the exhaust port....

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Behold the Fairey OD!

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Dry as a bone.

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There's this crescent-shapped nut in the picture above that can feely move and it's leaking oil. What is it?

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Meanwhile, transmission mounts are on and engine mounts are next.

Happy weekend for Team Garth!

The axle shafts are in, put new diff oil in, new gaskets, and he's rolling.

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Moved in 2WD = GARTH IS ALIVE AGAIN!

Previous owner was lazy though and put a random bolt instead of the original one so one has bigger threads. Planning to replace all flange bolts.

To celebrate the momentous occasion, new steering damper is in.

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Took off the old mudguard brackets that the previous owner left to rot. You know how hard it is to get 30 years of rusted bolts off?! Dremel; crowbar; hammer; repeat.

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New mudflaps are now on and tomorrow will continue with new side mirrors, and the weekend will be a brake fluid flush & more goodies to be installed!

Excellent job of logging your progress, keep it going ....

Very nice looking Land Rover,

Cheers,
Andy

ANDYD wrote:Excellent job of logging your progress, keep it going ....

Very nice looking Land Rover,

Cheers,
Andy

Thanks, Andy. He is a work in progress and this thread will be an adventure, that's for sure. :alien:

You have a 3 bearing 2.25

On the 5 bearing the oil filler cap is on the front top of the rocker cover, whereas on the 3 Bearing the oil filler is a long tube with cap on the side like yours.

Dave_F wrote:You have a 3 bearing 2.25

On the 5 bearing the oil filler cap is on the front top of the rocker cover, whereas on the 3 Bearing the oil filler is a long tube with cap on the side like yours.

Thanks, Dave. Can you uncover more secrets that lies beneath based on the pictures?

I'd love to learn more about it if you have any more info to share.

Check out my site...below

Recommendations...

Grease your drive shaft u-joints...and every time you do any sort of water crossings...these dry out and fail fairly quickly.

Ditch the old points and go electronic with something like Petronix...I did mine and never had another issue with timing. Keep the original points in the truck...just in case.

Use 15w40 for your oil changes (diesel oil)...your engine is old (albiet rebuilt) and will run well on this. if you're smoking at all, change the valve seals...these fail over time and result in blue smoke on startup and when decelerating down hills.

Clean the frame and keep it painted.

Lots more but this should keep you busy for a while. :lol:

Dave_F wrote:Check out my site...below

Recommendations...

Grease your drive shaft u-joints...and every time you do any sort of water crossings...these dry out and fail fairly quickly.

Ditch the old points and go electronic with something like Petronix...I did mine and never had another issue with timing. Keep the original points in the truck...just in case.

Use 15w40 for your oil changes (diesel oil)...your engine is old (albiet rebuilt) and will run well on this. if you're smoking at all, change the valve seals...these fail over time and result in blue smoke on startup and when decelerating down hills.

Clean the frame and keep it painted.

Lots more but this should keep you busy for a while. :lol:

I'll grease up the U-joints as pictured:

http://www.importandvintage.com/_/rsrc/ ... -large.jpg

I tried the electronic ignition route but the engine did not like it; kept stalling and choking out. The points ran well with it.

As for 15W40, how hard will it be during winter? I got 5W30 because of the winter usage.

If worried about winter then use a 5W40 diesel engine oil. Wait for Rotella to be on sale at Crappy Tire.

What's the rationale with using diesel oil in a petrol car? Is it for an engine flush or are you suggesting to use it as replacement to run regularly?

flipstah wrote:
I'll grease up the U-joints as pictured:

http://www.importandvintage.com/_/rsrc/ ... -large.jpg

I tried the electronic ignition route but the engine did not like it; kept stalling and choking out. The points ran well with it.

As for 15W40, how hard will it be during winter? I got 5W30 because of the winter usage.

Uhh, do my eyes deceive me? I don't think grease is going to help that u-joint any. :(

DBrands wrote:

flipstah wrote:
I'll grease up the U-joints as pictured:

http://www.importandvintage.com/_/rsrc/ ... -large.jpg

I tried the electronic ignition route but the engine did not like it; kept stalling and choking out. The points ran well with it.

As for 15W40, how hard will it be during winter? I got 5W30 because of the winter usage.

Uhh, do my eyes deceive me? I don't think grease is going to help that u-joint any. :(

That's not mine haha. That's a generic Google picture of what a U-joint looks like.

I have a spare air filter assembly if your interested. It had a couple small pin holes in the bottom cup where the oil goes so I patched it with JB Weld, other then that it's in good shape.

This is Kirk Hillman's truck, also one of my old trucks.

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Headdamage, I think if it were me I'd mount a second set of headlights into those open holes. Eliminate the need to mount AUX lights on your bumper :D

flipstah wrote:What's the rationale with using diesel oil in a petrol car? Is it for an engine flush or are you suggesting to use it as replacement to run regularly?

It contains higher levels of additives which are better for preventing wear on older engine designs. It should be run all of the time.

Strange Rover wrote:Headdamage, I think if it were me I'd mount a second set of headlights into those open holes. Eliminate the need to mount AUX lights on your bumper :D

The SBC needs all of the cooling it can get.

Some musings I learnt over the weekend:

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Took Garth out from Calgary to Edmonton on Friday night and this was my first long drive on the Land Rover.

It can do 115kph but it's at the price of your eardrums. 90kph is adequate. I can also do Calgary to Red Deer (~146km) in half a tank (~22.5L), giving me a mileage of ~15MPG!

Using downhill momentum to get to the other side works wonders!

My heater works well, thankfully and on Saturday, I learnt through other LR oweners that I need to work on approach, techniques, and knowing the LR's limitations. It was a fun run with the Alberta Land Rover Enthusiasts (ALRE)!

http://distilleryimage9.ak.instagram.co ... 9867_7.jpg

Sunday was McLean Creek and rock crawl is fun! There was a rockshelf I wanted to try but there wasn't enough power in that 2.25L petrol engine to get me up. :cry:

http://distilleryimage2.ak.instagram.co ... 92df_7.jpg

The view more than made it up for it. :thumbsup:

I'll post videos up once I've edited them because the engine vibrated so much :rofl:

Also, I've added some more mods before the trip which included, better recovery points at the front and bigger side mirrors.

Nice to see you're having fun with Garth and that the ALRE guys are helping you familiarize you with the Land-Rover's idiosyncrasies.

Here are more pics from our McLean trip:

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What happens before we start? My battery dies. :rofl:

Boosted, I'm good to go again! :thumbsup:

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The rock shelf.

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I could clear but not enough power in the 2.25L petrol to get Garth all the way up! After trying out various paths, he couldn't make it up. Kept stalling on the second step.

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The descent. The right side is all cliff. :eek:

Thought I'd get wet:

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Bad idea. That took me an hour to clean on the INSIDE and out.

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Got new oil to try out on Garth: 15W40 Rotella T and new back seats from The Rover Shop Calgary.

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New heavy duty battery from Interstate as the old one was too small. Through voltmeter testing, we found out that the alternator wasn't efficient enough when all of the electrics were on. Time to check out better options.

Here's a video of my failternator in action:

http://s113.photobucket.com/user/dj_fli ... 5.mp4.html

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 1807_o.jpg

Rotella T 15W40 is in! Will see how that runs.

Who needs a minivan when you have a 7-seater right here?! Got the essentials bolted up and/or tied down (fire extinguisher, tire wrench, First Aid kit, tool box).

Fun fact: My toolbox used to hold 50 cal bullets. :)

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Videos coming this weekend. Still editing.

:alien:

Cool, thanks for sharing the video's..

Loving this thread, keep it coming.

Thanks!

Well, the original Lucas alternator came off and had it tested; doesn't work.

Currently being reconditioned and will have it back next week! ^.^

Alternator has been rebuilt and is bolted on!

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 3453_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 4091_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 3964_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 7821_n.jpg

The socket and wiring will definitely need replacing as well since it's brittle.

http://s113.photobucket.com/user/dj_fli ... 5.mp4.html

:thumbsup:

He needs winter tires fast lol.

Also, here is the Blackstone analysis for the Pennzoil 5W30. Right now, it's on Rotella 15W30:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 0884_n.jpg

Bah, winter did something to Garth.

FML. Having carburetor issues.

The fuel is leaking out and not creating a vacuum to feed, so it won't cold-start.

Battery is fully charged and the engine is warm but it won't finish cranking.

:banghead:

flipstah wrote:Bah, winter did something to Garth.

FML. Having carburetor issues.

The fuel is leaking out and not creating a vacuum to feed, so it won't cold-start.

Battery is fully charged and the engine is warm but it won't finish cranking.

:banghead:

First: Try posting it in the proper forum so people can answer it for you, not everyone will be reading it on your build page.
Try the Question and Answer page for technical and Mechanical issues. http://www.roverlanders.bc.ca/roverforu ... um.php?f=5

Second: Sorry, I've been involved with theses things for many years and have no idea what you just said. A fuel leak is preventing a vacuum? Won't finish cranking?

Greg S wrote:

flipstah wrote:Bah, winter did something to Garth.

FML. Having carburetor issues.

The fuel is leaking out and not creating a vacuum to feed, so it won't cold-start.

Battery is fully charged and the engine is warm but it won't finish cranking.

:banghead:

First: Try posting it in the proper forum so people can answer it for you, not everyone will be reading it on your build page.
Try the Question and Answer page for technical and Mechanical issues. http://www.roverlanders.bc.ca/roverforu ... um.php?f=5

Second: Sorry, I've been involved with theses things for many years and have no idea what you just said. A fuel leak is preventing a vacuum? Won't finish cranking?

From what I understand, when you pump the gas, the carb is fed gas so that you can start it. The choke is up and once it starts, you level out the choke until idle has calmed down then you push the choke all the way then you're on your merry way.

Whenever I pump the gas, fuel is leaking near the carb. Smoke is sputtering out of the exhaust but it just won't finish the ignition process.

fix the leak near the carb... :wink: to start....

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/ ... 3530_o.jpg

Leaky leak.

Awesome thread. I especially like the pics from the Forestry Trunk recreation areas - I used to be on those trails every weekend in my 63 SIIa.

You should be able to get up those steps - power shouldn't be limiting you! Could the "stalling" when climbing be related to the Weber carb? My old Solex had no issues climbing step inclines. I wonder if you are starving for fuel?

flipstah wrote:From what I understand, when you pump the gas, the carb is fed gas so that you can start it. The choke is up and once it starts, you level out the choke until idle has calmed down then you push the choke all the way then you're on your merry way. Whenever I pump the gas, fuel is leaking near the carb. Smoke is sputtering out of the exhaust but it just won't finish the ignition process.

Okay, bear with me for awhile. Here are some real basic concepts of how a gasoline engine with a carburetor works. Please take note: I am NOT being condescending or mean to belittle anyone in any of this. People now have grown up never having had anything to do with carburetor engines so have no concept of the process or terms. The principals are significantly different from a fuel injected engine and many people never have to consider them. Personally, I can't understand the basic concepts of modern fuel injected systems with their electronic.

Concept #1 Liquid fuel (gasoline) does NOT burn or explode. It must first be converted to a gaseous form (evaporated). Cold air does not allow for much evaporation, nor does a cold engine.

2) When an engine is cold a normal carb with open choke does not suck enough liquid fuel into the intake to allow for sufficient evaporation to allow combustion (about 13% fuel to air ratio).

3) So with a float bowl full of fuel, one pump of the throttle pedal will cause the accelerator pump to deposit a shot of raw liquid gasoline into the manifold where it will sit. As the intake air passes over it, a bit evaporates, enriching the fuel/air mix. Too much pumped into the manifold can make the mixture too rich, too high of a concentration of fuel to air, so it is above the combustion range of gasoline (a "flooded" engine). Be careful not to pump too much fuel with the accelerator pump while starting. One pump is generally enough.

4) The choke in a closed position causes a very high vacuum inside the carb and because it can't get air, it sucks a much higher amount of liquid gasoline than normal through the jets causing it to mist and enrich the intake air. This, combined with a little pool of liquid gasoline you pumped into the manifold, should get the fuel air mix to about the required 13%.

5) When the engine fires it produces heat and the manifold is heated at the base of the carb which aids in the conversion of the liquid gasoline into a gaseous form so it will ignite easier in the combustion chamber. As it heats up and the fuel evaporates easier, it need less liquid gasoline pulled into the process to make the ideal mixture so the choke is slowly opened to reduce the higher vacuum inside the carb so it pulls progressively less gasoline into the process.

6) You have to balance the running of the engine with opening the choke so it runs as smooth as possible until it is fully warm.

7) Cold air, cold steel, cold aluminum and cold gasoline all make it more difficult to start. Any moisture in the fuel system, especially so much as part of a drop in the carburetor, will restrict gasoline flow in a passage or jet making it almost impossible to start, especially if it has turned to ice. Dirt has the same effect but isn't dependant on the cold.

8) A carb "icing up" has little to do with ambient temperatures being below freezing or the formation of ice inside the float bowl, passages or jets of a carburetor. Nor does it have to do with ice forming on the outside of a carburetor. "Icing " of a carb is the intake air being refrigerated in the venturi INSIDE the carb and forming ice IN the throat of the carb, restricting air flow and flow of a fine mist of fuel out the jets. Usually happens from a degree or two below freezing to 10 degrees above freezing in humid atmospheres and occurs while the engine is running, not while it is in the starting process.

Any help?

"Fuel is leaking near the carb". Where from? A worn throttle shaft bushing can allow fuel from the accelerator pump to leak out there when you pump the throttle or it could leak from a bad carb gasket at the manifold. If you have a leak at the gasket, you are getting diluting amounts air into the system, reducing the fuel/air mixture.

"when you pump the gas, the carb is fed gas" No. Not really. The carb should already have gas. What you are doing is depositing a little pool of raw liquid gasoline into the intake manifold to enrich the intake air. You are feeding gasoline THROUGH the carb to the intake.

"choke is up and once it starts, you level out the choke until idle has calmed" Up? The coke plate inside the carb is usually referred to as "open" or "closed". Closed to start a cold engine and slowly open it in increments to retain a smooth but faster idle than normal. Once fully warmed up, the choke control is moved to the choke-fully-open position. Along with closing the choke plate the choke control also increases idle speed. Increasing is the first thing it does when putting the choke on (closing it) and decreasing it is last thing that happens when you take the choke off (open it). Choke control adjusts the "idle stop" to change the idle throttle setting.

"smoke out the exhaust" Unburnt fuel/air mixture.

"won't finish the ignition process" The ignition "system" in an automobile is the system that provides an electrical spark inside the combustion chamber at precisely the right time. The ignition process is likely finishing, it is just that the engine isn't "firing" as a result. I suppose you could argue it isn't finishing but I think what you are getting at is "not firing" or not "continuing to fire"; the combustion isn't happening thoroughly enough to continue to run. This results in sputtering smoke out the exhaust.

I appreciate the lesson, Greg. I am still new at this and the Land Rover is my teaching ground so I do take any advice to heart.

So from what I've seen and read around, the carb is in need of a rebuild. I found this kit on the internet and was wondering how complex is it to do? It looks simple but that can be deceiving:

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_ ... 0major.htm

I'm also planning to replace the fuel line because I found that the hose leaks in the undercarriage as well.

flipstah wrote:...I found this kit on the internet and was wondering how complex is it to do? It looks simple but that can be deceiving:...
I'm also planning to replace the fuel line because I found that the hose leaks in the undercarriage as well.

Yes, yes! replace the fuel line! Does yours have the mechanical pump on the engine? If so, it is a bit inefficient in my opinion to have soft rubber suction line between the tank and pump. In a rear mounted station wagon tank, at the back of the vehicle, as far as my experience goes it does anyway. You seem to lose efficiency, possibly by the hose contracting on suction strokes. Maybe not, just an observation that lead me to installing a $40 electric pump (4 to 7 psi) near the tank. Most of my fuel delivery problems disappeared after that. Ran it in series with the mechanical one.

How complex is it to rebuild a twin barrel carb? I have never had one apart. Sorry, can't help you with that one but other carbs I've had apart have been reasonably easy. You must keep the parts in order, clean and kept track of. Don't use silicon gasket goop on them or you're asking for problems. Learn how small an amount of force is needed to tighten things up. Too much torque on those little machine screws will strip or break them or compress gaskets incorrectly. Download instructions and a diagram and have them right beside you to set it up properly.

If you are going to rebuild your carb, use chap stick on the gaskets ( just the regular black tube no flavors )

Greg S wrote:

flipstah wrote:...I found this kit on the internet and was wondering how complex is it to do? It looks simple but that can be deceiving:...
I'm also planning to replace the fuel line because I found that the hose leaks in the undercarriage as well.

Yes, yes! replace the fuel line! Does yours have the mechanical pump on the engine? If so, it is a bit inefficient in my opinion to have soft rubber suction line between the tank and pump. In a rear mounted station wagon tank, at the back of the vehicle, as far as my experience goes it does anyway. You seem to lose efficiency, possibly by the hose contracting on suction strokes. Maybe not, just an observation that lead me to installing a $40 electric pump (4 to 7 psi) near the tank. Most of my fuel delivery problems disappeared after that. Ran it in series with the mechanical one.

How complex is it to rebuild a twin barrel carb? I have never had one apart. Sorry, can't help you with that one but other carbs I've had apart have been reasonably easy. You must keep the parts in order, clean and kept track of. Don't use silicon gasket goop on them or you're asking for problems. Learn how small an amount of force is needed to tighten things up. Too much torque on those little machine screws will strip or break them or compress gaskets incorrectly. Download instructions and a diagram and have them right beside you to set it up properly.

You mean like this?

https://scontent-b-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hph ... 0216_n.jpg

I found this underneath the truck but wasn't entirely sure what it was until I followed the line. It led to the fuel tank.

I have manuals and it doesn't look TOO complicated. It's like a puzzle that you can't put away.

Looks like a Lucas electric fuel pump to me.

Okay, so ignore my dad pumping the accelerator like a mad man haha.

I already know the fuel hose needs replacing and the carb is in need of a major rebuild (the kit is coming soon). I just want you guys to watch the video for the starter. Would you recommend replacing the whole starter motor or just the solenoid?

http://s113.photobucket.com/user/dj_fli ... a.mp4.html

Starter works. What makes you think there is something wrong with it?

The starter motor starts to spin quickly, the starter gear is on a shaft and doesn't start turning as quickly so it is propelled down the shaft on some curved slots, against a small spring. This gear is thrown down the shaft and into engagement with the ring gear on the flywheel forcing it to start turning. As long as there is lots of friction induced by a high load between the two gears, the starter motor gear is stuck down the shaft and engaged, turning the motor over. As soon (let me say that again) As Soon, as there is relief of that load between the gears, the little spring pushes the small gear back up the shaft and out of engagement with the ring gear. As soon as your engine fires, even once, it picks up enough speed to relieve that load and your starter disengages. That is EXACTLY what your video shows.

It is possible the shaft is gummed up or slightly corroded so the starter gear doesn't go far enough down the shaft so doesn't engage by much or it's possible a poor connection isn't allowing enough power to the starter to get good power and speed to keep load on the flywheel. (I doubt that one.)

A solenoid is an electrical switch. You are getting power to the starter so nothing wrong with the solenoid.

Your engine fires once and quits. The white fumes coming back out the air cleaner is fuel rich air that has started to fill a cylinder on the intake stroke but the engine stopped part way through the process (or backed up a little) and pushed it back out the carb. It might have started to burn but not entirely. Sometimes you get a huge bang and flame like that. If your timing is too far advanced, it could be firing too soon Before Top Dead Centre (BTDC) and actually forcing the piston down BTDC so it's backing up a bit. If it was turning faster, the inertia would keep it turning the right way. That is why there is a heavy flywheel, to help retain inertia between power strokes. Try setting your timing a bit closer to TDC then try it.

Greg S wrote: If your timing is too far advanced, it could be firing too soon Before Top Dead Centre (BTDC) and actually forcing the piston down BTDC so it's backing up a bit. If it was turning faster, the inertia would keep it turning the right way. That is why there is a heavy flywheel, to help retain inertia between power strokes. Try setting your timing a bit closer to TDC then try it.

Thanks for this tidbit, Greg. I thought that since the starter is going then stops but the engine didn't start, that would be the case but from what you're telling me, it's the carb. Again.

It always leads back to the carb.

No! I didn't say it was the carb. I said it is likely your timing. That's your ignition timing. Distributor "times" the spark to fire at just the right moment just about the time you are at maximum compression with a cylinder filled with the proper amount of air/fuel mix. The only thing it might have to do with the carb at this point is too much gasoline from the accelerator pump hammering away like a sewing machine.

On my 2.25 once I changed from standard points to an electronic system (Petronix)...never again had issues with the distributor or timing issues...one of the best investments I ever made for the old Series 3.

flipstah wrote:Okay, so ignore my dad pumping the accelerator like a mad man haha.

Yikes - all that pumping is dumping a *ton* of fuel into the carb!! After that - it would be cranky starting even if everything else was A-OK...

I'd likely be doing the opposite - trying to get some of the fuel out of the carb throat.

RobTheGob wrote:I'd likely be doing the opposite - trying to get some of the fuel out of the carb throat.

And by that I mean: choke open and pedal to the floor and hold it there.

WAY less pumping! There is a lot of fuel pedal pumping in your videos...

Are you sure you are adjusting the idle speed screw in video #2? Keep in mind there is a idle mixture screw as well (there could be two. Some of those dual throat carbs have two idle circuits) and it almost appears to me that you may be turning that...

RobTheGob wrote:

RobTheGob wrote:I'd likely be doing the opposite - trying to get some of the fuel out of the carb throat.

And by that I mean: choke open and pedal to the floor and hold it there.

WAY less pumping! There is a lot of fuel pedal pumping in your videos...

Are you sure you are adjusting the idle speed screw in video #2? Keep in mind there is a idle mixture screw as well (there could be two. Some of those dual throat carbs have two idle circuits) and it almost appears to me that you may be turning that...

That actually made starting easier. Thanks for that.

There are two but my father said that one is for idle and the other is for the air. So it was -12c and Garth did start but did not like the cold weather.

The fuel line and fuel pump WILL be replaced/fixed when my parts guy is back on holidays and weather is nice enough for us to go under.

Now, would you say the following situation is in relation to the fuel line or something else:

- Car starts and the choke is open (meaning the choke isn't pulled all the way in the cabin but it's pushed all the way in).
- Idling was just adjusted to a somewhat stable RPM (engine wasn't violently rumbling nor sounds dying)
- Accelerator is gradually depressed; RPM rises and sounds high with the accelerator fully depressed
- Accelerator is released; RPM idling rises and falls randomly (sounds like a roller coaster ride)
- Accelerator is quickly depressed; carb makes choking noises and dies

On the road:
- In neutral, RPM follows the accelerator (full throttle = high RPM)
- In 1st gear, high range, the accelerator is fully depressed (pedal to the metal) but RPM doesn't follow suit. It sputters along and there's no power. You can hear the RPM gradually increase but no power; same in 2nd and 3rd.
- I thought it was the clutch but my dad said that if it was, the engine RPM would be high, matching the accelerator, and there'd be no power.

Sounds like your mixture is off.

Have you checked the timing, and that vacuum and centrifugal advance are working?

Have you adjusted the idle mixture?

red90 wrote:Sounds like your mixture is off.

Have you checked the timing, and that vacuum and centrifugal advance are working?

I have no idea how to do that. Do you have a typical walkthrough for this?