The Rover-Landers of BC

Looking good, bringing back memories of my 1956 S1 engine rebuild. I learnt a lot about all the different pistons and piston rings they used between 1955 and 1957 :shock:

Good time to change out the old rusty core plugs if you haven't done so already.

Cheers,
Andy

Hi Andy,
Your posts have been helping me a lot, interesting to look through your photos and info you included.
I have installed the pistons, crank, camshaft, rockers (ended up with Cox and Turner rebuilds), and valves. I hope to get the rest completed this weekend.
Have to wait for a few parts from the UK to finish it off. Found one crank bolt was belt slightly, when putting the cap on it would move back and forth. Luckily I caught this before install new bearings or it might have ruined one set upon tightening.

The engine was rebuilt in the 70's after what looks like #2 piston failed, the head still has some scars but should be ok and it was not out of shape.
I will post some more photos in a few days.

I looked at the core plugs, they were replaced at some point as they are not stock, Dorman brand. So I did not replace them as they appeared ok. One hole had a block heater installed so I am replacing this one, with another block heater. It gets chilly in this part of Ontario. Not planning much winter driving but might be good to have just in case.

Lost of parts to clean and paint, even the wife is helping me!!

Cheers.

It's definately winter in Ontario now, cold outside so glad to work inside. The engine is almost done except I need a couple small parts that were not included in gasket sets ( just found that out). The fiber rings for the thermostat and the o ring and little copper tube between the water pump and housing on the head. Will place yet another order lol.
One question is I have a new rear main oil seal the large split one. There is also a cork gasket in the set I have.
I suspect the cork gasket is for another type of seal. Any advice on this.
Cheers all.

Hi, your making great progress!

I believe depending on the year of the engine there was two different types of seals.
1954 had the cork type seal with a metal oil retainer cap
1955-58 had the rubber style like yours
I expect both types are in your kit just to cover all the years. So likely surplus to your needs

You'll find the little cork strips a little tricky, take your time not to rip them on installation.

have fun!
Andy

Thanks for the information, I suspected this but the old oil seal had a slight indent in it which looked to match the cork gasket. Maybe there was a paper one in there? Anyhow the new seal should go on fine once I remove it from the engine stand. I was able to get the cork t's in using a couple small pieces of malemine with a slight bit of oil and a clamp. Head went on and adding remaining parts, just need to wait for the few bits I missed ordering and not in the gasket kit.
Shifting focus to the gearbox. It wouldn't shift into 3rd and forth. Found the a 3rd-4th synchro spring was slipped sideways. Will buy some new ones to replace these.
Making progress slowly..

The gearbox is apart with all the components. Found some metal at the bottom of the gearbox. Suspect it is a retaining clip from intermediate shaft.
All looks good but not sure how to assess the bearing.
Also found a chip in gear in the transfer case. I did not find the broken tooth so think this was an old wound that was not addressed. I will look into ordering a new gear.
Now debating if I should remove the mainshaft. I have a press, not sure if I should use it for this. I tried a fee blows with a hammer to see if it moved but nothing budged.

Well, if your gearbox is like mine, it will definitely need a full strip! I have a pretty long parts list. I am glad I stripped mine, I found quite a few issues. Originally I looked at the workshop manual and thought 'nah' due to it looking kinda complicated.

In the end, it's not too bad at all. You'll need some stout circlip pliers, a rubber mallet, and a brass drift.

Oh, and lots of Ziploc bags for parts.

I was able to strip most of it down, stopped at mainshaft removal. Looks like I was a bit luckier with this one. One gear with a chipped tooth and the retaining washer mentioned already are the only items needed. All bearings seem fine and everything is in order. Will order the two parts and wait to reassemble. In the mean time will clean and paint the components. I already took the hand brake apart. The mounting plate was bend, used the press and straightened it out. I will need to re shoe the brakes but the other parts will come back to life.
Half shaft were rebuilt last night and cut the old pan off the front diff. It was pretty damaged so I will replace it.

If you havent found it yet there is a great Youtube channel for the S1 restoration with great humour and really good info.
He went into all the strip down and pitfalls of the Series 1 gearbox, transfer box (and much more). The whole series of S1 restoration videos are great entertainment and when your sick of working on yours a great way to get a smile back on your face :lol:


Cheers
Andy

That's a good one Andy
Just watched the first two episodes......Oh MY!!!!
No shoes, using feet as 3rd and 4th hands. HILARIOUS.
Certainly gives an entertaining overview of restorations.
Worth a look......YES!!

I have checked out some of his videos, VERY entertaining to watch for sure. Aside from that some very valuable info!

Real work got in the way for a while but back at it.. Frame is completely painted now happy with the results. Used POR 15 and Chassis paint, seemed to stick very well with proper prep.
The gear box is back together, just need to put the hand brake on and waiting for a couple small parts. It seemed like a difficult job but it wasn't once I got into it.
Waiting on a few front end parts and that will be back together. Decided on new swivel balls, tried to fix up old ones but gave up and bit the bullet.
Just need to finish painting rear axle and that can go back in with new springs.
Foot wells are refitted, just need some primer on them. Tested my MIG welding skills, still.lots to learn in that area but satisfied with the results.
I purchased an ultrasonic cleaner! That thing is amazing helped clean lots of parts and return them to newish looking.
Working on Carb now but hit a snag. Looks like the correction Jet was broken off. I thought it looked odd but cleaned the carb up and was reassembling and upon inspection of the parts manual seems like it is broken off. Not sure if the purpose of this jet but that could explain the heavy carbon I found in the engine. First picture is what I see, second photo is the jet that came in the rebuild kit, but nothing to screw it into. Also think I need a 240 not a 170.
If someone can confirm what I think is missing that would be appreciated.
Guess it is another purchase looking for a carb body!!¡@$&%*.

My father has taken a shine to this project after owning it for 30 years. He is going to make a third trip to visit (7.5 hr drive one way) and spend another week with me to make some progress.
Well back to cleaning and painting.

That’s a common problem with the Solex carb. The emulsion tube holder gets brittle and the jet snaps off. You can heat it up and pull it out if you can find a replacement holder.
This place has them: https://www.partsklassik.com/p-1375-emu ... older.aspx

Matt

Thanks Matt, that might be the cheapest solution. Just need to see if I can get the old one out. Parts catalogue didn't show that as a seperate part.

I was able to get the emulsion tube holder separated from the carb body. I am looking at ordering a new one. My engine is a 1956, the catalogue indicates a 240. I have a 170 and 180 but the 240 size seems hard to get.
I am considering drilling one of the ones I have to 2.4mm assuming that is the correct size.
Any recommendations on this approach?

Well all my wire brushes are getting worn out! I have been spending most of the last few weeks, cleaning, repairing, rebuilding and painting components. It just had to be done and I'm almost running out of parts to work on. Steering is rebuilt all except the steering box in the frame, it seems tight. Brake components are rebuilt, just master cylinder left. Sand blaster the rims and mounted the new tires. Replaced the swivel ball races and the top pins as the old ones were damaged. Lots of little parts have been cleaned and prepped for reinstall.
The bulk head is coming along hope to prime it shortly. I have 6 days off so will be working hard to get as much done this weekend as I can.
Have been happy with the paint and the color on the rims look great. Went with Paintman Dove Grey, covered the rims then added a coat of clear 2k.

A few more photos.

Awesome work!

Well after a 7 day Easter marathon some progress was made thanks to help from my dad, it is back on wheels!!
Started to tackle the front end as I had all the parts now. A few hiccups along the way. I replaced the top steering pins and that took a little work to get them good and tight with new pins to secure them to the arm.
Time for new swivel balls and front end bearings, making good progress then what are those shiny things, half shafts!!! They should go in! Luckily I did not get that far.
Sorted out the stub hub and new bearings/seals on the hubs. Then came the brakes. A little swearing and they were installed.

Next up was the rear Diff and springs. All went in straight forward with new brakes, one old cylinder I rebuilt, I hope. And a new Cylinder, they are 3 stud cylinders for a semi floating rear. A pricey bugger abut the old one was damaged and there was actually a ball bearing installed in the line so it was not being used.
All good they went back on and just need to compress the rear shocks lower bushings, have to borrow a big C clamp from my buddy.
After this time to tackle to brake lines, and Master Cylinder. The Master was rebuild and seemed to go A OK. Brake lines installed (old ones seemed to be in good shape) and new fasteners to hold them in place.
Completed the final touches on the bulk head and time to test my paint spraying technique. One coat went on looked great. Let it dry and then wait for a 2nd coat.

Next up the Gear box, after installing new o rings to the shifting forks I decided to test the shifting. WTF will not go into 3 and 4. Apart came the front end and what do you know the 3-4 synchro was in backwards, I now remember reading that somewhere!!! Anyway the LR Gods were smiling and it went together like nothing, not sure how it happened but took less than 1 hr and it was back together. Then on the the shifting levers and the hand brake, I cleaned all those parts (did I mention ultra sonic cleaner, thank goodness) and rivetted new liners. Back together it went, might have taken a couple beers but wasn't too difficult.
Time to drop it in the frame with new mounts. Went pretty smooth!

Next day time to put a second coat on bulkhead, went pretty well except one area on the foot well didn't look well, orange peel look. Have to do some more homework on spraying.
While that's drying, Engine time again. Lifted it off the stand and start to work on oil shaft and timing. I hope I got that i nth e right spot. Then all the odds and ends I did not do as I had to get the shaft installed and the engine of the stand. Next was oil pan, exhaust manifold, side cover etc. The short bell housing and fly wheel now back on time to slap the clutch plate on. One bolt was pretty rough, luck would have it I bout some BSF bolts that size so grabbed one. but could only get three turns in and stuck. Dam threads in the flywheel are buggered!!!! I was going to buy a BSF Tap and Die set, came back to haunt me. So now what wait for a tap or????
While that was going on, I lightly sanded the bulk head problem area and sprayed some new paint on it, looks like it went on well. not 100% happy with my abilities yet but think I will get it.
Decided to tap a 8mm bolt for the plate, bought a high grade bolt and a good tap and cleaned up the threads and in it went. I could not wait!!!

Then noticed the new boot I bought for the bellhousing clutch outlet did not look right, put it in incorrectly, boy that was a job to get it in the right spot but was successful.
Finally the engine is back in it's old home, the frame and mated to the gear box.. Time for a Jagger!!!!!!
Pictures to follow, thinking I should change the title to FULL rebuild as it started as partial but now its full on.

Pics

More

:D

Sorry no recent updates, I have let this slip over the last few weeks. I set a very tight timeline and hope to have it finished by early Jun as my family is coming to visit from out of province for my daughters high school grad. Heck if done she might even drive it to her graduation, will be the coolest ride there!

I have been working non stop on this project in hopes to complete it (although I have a real job as well to pay for all the parts). As it stands now the exhaust is in, wiring has been replaced, all except the signal loom. I made a mistake ordering and I was missing the signal switch loom I called Autosparks and they told me I should have ordered the option when placing the original order. They told me what I needed and it was going to be 2-3 weeks to make it. I was surprised when it showed up the following week, but that excitement quickly disappeared when I realized they sent me the wrong items. The person I talked to talked me out of ordering what I thought I needed! Long story short an email with some photos and they are shipping me FREE of charge the right loom to finish this off. Very happy with their customer service!!!
Working on lots of small parts, almost running out of bags and parts are going back on. Hand Brake in place with new pads. Prop shaft rear in place. Body parts next, need a rad and lower cab. Sanding and prepping lets try my paining again. This time I seemed to figure out how much to spray. Very happy with the results so far.
With these items replaced it was time to start the engine, nervous and excited all at the same time. New battery in place, decided on Negative ground, careful check and double check wiring. Hook up the battery and no smoke, good sign. I ran the starter a bit to circulate the oil. Then put new plugs in and lets try it! Oh no, what did I do wrong? Start checking timing and wiring, no spark. Ok check coil must be that. Bought a new one as easy to find a local supplier, determined I missed a washer in points so it was grounded out, fixed that now have spark. Tray again the next day still no go almost runs but barely firing, must be timing. Start pulling things apart, determined I put the shaft in 180 deg out, I though I double checked that, Anyway make the change but the rotor still not seem to look right. My plug wires were out, I replaced them according to the photos from the tear down. But they had the wires 1/4 turn counter clockwise on the dist cap. Move them and put it all back together. Hold breath and push the button!! Bam fires right up, oil pressure 55. Awesome very pleased.

Still having some problems and a list starting and hope to cross them off one day at a time.
Bleeding brakes has been a challenge, had to power bleed them and let them sit a day them try again, find a little air each day. Getting close to having a pedal.
Dynamo does not seem to work, just pulled it off and hooked a 12 V battery to it, it wants to spin but will not move more than 1/4 turn.
Oil leaking on top banjo bolt at back of head, I have 2 copper washers but suspect they are hard and not sealing (need new ones)
Need to fine tune the timing as not running great when off choke. It idles but does not accelerate great, I will perform timing setting according to manual and then go forward, hope it is not a carb issue?

Working on mechanical items between sanding and fixing body parts.
I have 4 weeks left and working hard at it, I will not cut corners to get it done but think it is still possible.
Wish me luck and stay tuned.

:D

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