The Rover-Landers of BC

Greetings All.....
I recently (today) acquired this '59 Series II after 3 years of pursuing this vehicle from the 2nd owner.
It was hidden on an acreage in Courtenay and has been parked since 1985.....!
The vehicle VIN is 164900425 limestone colour and I think it started life either on the lower mainland or southern Vancouver Island
It was delivered to Rover Vancouver in April of 1959.
If anyone has any history on this LR I would appreciate the feedback.
Sincerely,
Stuart

Congrats from Campbell River!

I hope you enjoy, how's the frame?

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What a great find Stuart , looks like it has several cool options

Thanks
The frame? I will certainly find out once the dismantling starts.....I am expecting a lot of work.
Nice thing is that it is all original, everything is intact, body parts straight, and all glass in order.
I do know that there will be lots of seized parts due to no movement for 37 years.....
BUT I do have a friend in Merville that is a phenomenal LR resource.
The journey begins.
Stuart

Nice find! Looks like a great project. I’m just wrapping up a rebuild of my 1959 88” here in Victoria. It was a local BC government truck from new and I purchased it off the 2nd owner. I’ve got lots of bits and pieces here so let me know what you need!

Matt
Victoria BC

Hi Matt
Wow......thanks for that. I will keep you in mind when I get the dismantle stage and see what I need.
Much appreciated.
I do get to Victoria occasionally and would like to see your project....if that works for you.
Stuart

For sure, let me know if your heading this way. I’ll pm you my address and phone number.

Matt

Will do....look forward to that!
Stuart

wow what an amazing find. Good luck with with restore.

Love all the capstans


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First time 37 years that the wheels have turned!
A good friend and I had a great successful day in moving the land rover to its new home.

How's the rust?

Hello bfein
Have a video of the vehicle with doors off and seats out...
Cannot load it to this thread so
If you wish send me your email address and I will forward the video.
Will give you a better idea.
Stuart

Well everything appears to be progressing quite nicely on the '59 LR SII SW.
My friend Paul C had a visit last Friday to check the frame and concluded that L/R bulkhead outriggers, L/R rear spring hangers, and the rear cross member needs replacing......OK that is not too bad!
So off to the sandblasting Co. this Thursday.
Will keep you updated once that is complete.

added a few more photos....

Love this truck. Never seen another wagon with the ribs in the floor in the back


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While the frame is at the sandblast shop and awaiting frame repair parts I thought it a good time to investigate what awaits in the 2.25l engine.
I knew the pistons were seized and have been adding "Movitt" and "Diesel" to the chambers for a few weeks....photos included.
Tomorrow I will remove the cam and see how well the piston removal goes.
I am hoping the connecting rods and wrist pins are not seized as that will make the job a little more complicated!!

Thought I would give an update as to where I am presently with the 1959 109.....

Have had some great help from a number of members in locating parts and giving suggestions. These are all much appreciated......THANKS!!

So,....my next step is to finish welding the rear front spring hangers to the frame.
Then, a quick touch up with the hand sandblaster prior to priming and painting. I am still researching what product to use and if any of you have good results with a certain product let me know.
Once the final frame coat is on the repaired steering relay will be reinstalled.

Next are the bearing/seal replacements in both front and rear differentials and they can be installed once the new parabolic springs arrive from Jeremy Pinney.
BTW...had some interesting discussion with a few folks at the "Brits on the Beach" event in Ladysmith in early July.
Sad to hear that there are some shotty Timken bearings produced out there and packaged as the real thing. Guess I'll have to really be diligent on this front.

Still hope to find a good set of used 272309 steel wheels and have them mounted so I can have a "rolling chassis" soon......

Side note:
All my research, reading, and queries have led me to the shocks that will be installed on the 109.
Shocks seem to be in the same category as Ford, Dodge, Chevrolet discussions and TIRES. I will probably stir up a few passionate discussion points in the shock department as well.....anyway my choice was (I know) a britpart DC6012 and DC6014 rear.

John Craddock in UK price DC6014 $78.00 ea.....DC6012 $60.00 each

I have included a few photos.

Looking good! I painted my frame with POR15 and then too coated it with POR15 chassis black. It’s held up very well over the last 12yrs only some small areas of the topcoat chassis black have started peeling.

Matt

Thanks for that bit of info Matt on the POR product.
I think the primer portion of the product allows a bit of rust to be present prior to application.
Will have to confirm that and could save me a bit of sandblasting.
S

StuartC wrote: Tue Jul 26, 2022 1:35 pm Thanks for that bit of info Matt on the POR product.
I think the primer portion of the product allows a bit of rust to be present prior to application.
Will have to confirm that and could save me a bit of sandblasting.
S

Yes a light rust is fine with por15. You can spray the frame with their “metal ready” prep (which is just phosphoric acid) which helps the por15 stick.

Matt

Thanks Matt
Thought that was the case with POR15....and rust
Stuart

Today was the application of the first coat of Hempathane on the '59 Land Rover.....another coat tomorrow and the frame is complete.
Now starts the process of adding all the parts back on the frame.
Took me a while to correctly fit the rear bumper/structural support, forward rear spring hanger supports (both sides), bulkhead supports (both sides), and two frame patches at the forward rear spring hanger location.
The learning curve for welding/fabrication was pretty steep!! But with the guidance of two expert fabricator/welders (Paul C and Richard L) we got a professional quality frame repair done.
The forward rear spring hanger location was the most extensive rust issue on the whole frame........the rest was pretty good. Not too bad for a Land Rover that has been sitting since 1985.
Couple of photos.

Any specific reason for choosing Hempel paint for the topcoat? Also, where did you get it from?

Thanks.

ASCO in Courtenay.....not sure but they may have an office/facility in Victoria.
POR 15 was my first choice......but
after talking to ASCO this was the best solution.

extreme/high service industrial and marine steel applications
(thought it a good bet that a LR steel frame would be appropriate)
polyurethane topcoat cured with aliphatic isocyanate
used for severely corrosive atmospheric environments
direct to metal (DTM) with no primer requirement
high volume solids containing zinc phosphate

If anyone decides to use this.....use ALL safety gear/respirators....it is a nasty one.

This is a two part product.....base and curing agent.

I found using small mixed batches works best.

Looks pretty sharp!

Been a few months since my last updates on the restoration journey..........progress is being made.
Got a little side tracked with my new found passion for welding/fabricating.....but now back to the task at hand.
1. Frame is complete and awaiting new chassis bushes.
2. Received a complete set of parabolic springs from Jeremy and will install those once the axles have been gone over and upgraded.
3. Roamerdrive arrived from Ray. That will be installed but I will have to sort out the no reverse issue first.
4. Bulkhead stripped and ready to send to the sandblaster. There will definitely be some welding once it returns.

Oh, finally found a good set of wheels....ANR4636....and they look very similar to the original 272309.
Sorry Greg these were a better fit.
Sincerely,
Stuart

Great job on bulkhead jig.Think I'll build one also.I've got 2 bulkheads to restore.Looks perfect for complete resto from sandblast to repair,to paint!

RoverMike.....
Yes, works great. I got the idea to build one after watching Mike at Britannica Restorations in Quebec. He was doing bulkhead repair on a jig.
If you are interested I can give you a few pointers (avoid some pitfalls), a few sketches and a few closeup photos.
May just post them for anyone that is interested.
Stuart

Hi Stuart,
That would be great!You could PM me,but maybe there are others out that would appreciate a few details if you feel like doing a bit of a write up on your jig build.
Cheers,Mike.

Hi Mike
Yes I will.
Should have some sketch details and closeup photos in the next few days.
Stuart

A photo update....progress is being made.

Block
Cleaned
Mag tested for cracks
Cylinders bored 0.030” over
Top of the block “shaved” to flat
Cam bearings installed

Cam shaft
Inspected (to ascertain tolerance compliance)
Polished

Crank
Inspected (tolerance compliant)
Polished

Head
Cleaned
Mag tested for cracks
Head surface shaved to perfect surface
New valve guides installed
Valve seats installed
New exhaust and intake valves installed
New springs, keepers, and caps installed

bulkhead sandblasted and ready for welding

Girling cylinders are refurbished

rookie mistake on the water pump

7:1 head and block turned out pretty well compared to what I had to start with.
Pretty pleased with the result. The other options were getting exponentially expensive.
A bit of pitting in #2 cylinder head shouldn't be an issue. After all it's not a hi performance 426 semi giving me sub 10 second 1/4's

Hardest part of the Lucas FW2 wiper system refit was removing the concrete from the internals....rest of the rebuild was pretty straight forward.
Hooked up to a 12V supply and work like new.

Block and Head painted with "LandRover Engine Grey" spec'd and formulated for Series 2 ('58-'61) by Paintman UK.
If anyone requires engine paint for the Series 2......let me know.

Looking very nice!

Acknowledgement to Aart Van Der Star and Gordon Bowbrick for the tip on a rear main seal oil leak test.
This procedure can only be done with the engine out of the vehicle and when in rebuild mode.
So.....tip the block vertical with a cut down oil pan installed and fill the rear main seal area with motor oil.
Turn the crank a few times daily. Check for leaks.
Photos attached.

I managed to find an "original style" two piece seal from PA Blanchard and it was relatively easy to install.
Decide to follow Mike's (Britannica Restoration) advice and use RTV in place of the T Seal.

Result.....no leaks as of day seven..... :shock:

Stuart

intake/exhaust manifold with original rebuilt solex carburetor

Everything looks great.

I did that same trick with my t seals on my six because I couldn’t get the factory ones in. I think my rear main leaks but it could be just the pan itself.

Good to know I wasn’t a complete idiot doing that.


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Gauge update.....and a note of appreciation to Drakes British Motors in Kelowna!!
Before and after photos of my original 1959 S2 5 door fuel, amps, and speedo gauges.
Scott mentioned to me these two were a challenge....my reply was "no kidding"......they have been sitting inoperable for a mere 40 years!

Wow! Great progress. Those gauges look great and thanks for posting the shops name. They may be helpful in the future for some gauge restoration.

Matt

lovely machine!