The Rover-Landers of BC

Posted: **Sat Jul 27, 2019 12:32 am**

Hi Andy, yes it's so close I can feel the end getting near!

Hooked up all the rear lights, had a short that I couldn't find in the parking lights, turns out I had hooked the number plate light up backwards :oops:

https://i.imgur.com/7CSLkiLl.jpg

Also installed the dual gauge today.

https://i.imgur.com/rvGUHshl.jpg

So to test it out I took it for a drive around the farmyard! Runs very well apart from a few hiccups like a leaking float in the solex and a few water leaks here and there but it purrs nice and smooth and has plenty of power.

https://i.imgur.com/TcypiXyl.jpg

Here are some videos, if you click on them you should be able to watch them.

https://i.imgur.com/YMavCjbl.mp4

https://i.imgur.com/aa52nxUl.mp4

Soon I'll be hitting the road!

Posted: **Mon Aug 12, 2019 11:55 pm**

Haven't got much done these past few weeks, but tonight I got the dash installed. All wired in now and everything works as it should! Really pleased with how it turned out.

https://i.imgur.com/4S7EAExl.jpg

Looking forward to the dim lights at night, any tips on how to brighten them up?

https://i.imgur.com/IHaOvGOl.jpg

Posted: **Tue Aug 13, 2019 8:32 am**

Colin,

Looking good. It's nice to see the correct dash hardware used - well done.

Posted: **Mon Aug 19, 2019 10:00 am**

Looking awesome! Your red and yellow dash warning lights should be swapped to be in the “correct” positions. ;)

Matt

Posted: **Tue Aug 20, 2019 9:46 pm**

Thanks John, I had to scrounge up a few flathead screws from various stashes of other Series owners.

Matt, I will fix that next time the dash comes off which will be when I add those fancy defroster hoses.

Been a busy few evenings lining everything up. Never thought it could be such a pain making sure everything fits rights. The right-hand side of the bulkhead has about a 3/4 spacer. I will need to get a longer bulkhead bolt because the nut does not thread all the way on. I guess the years of military use bent the bulkhead outrigger back.

It's very stressful installing all these freshly painted panels, I'll have to invest in some touch-up paint because I made a few mistakes here and there...

With the help of my Dad we have been installing the interior, everything is fitting nicely and I only had to drill one hole into the frame where the seatbox bolts on. Here is the seatbox in. I added some closed cell foam tape to hopefully prevent some of the drafts.

https://i.imgur.com/q6C2oHbl.jpg

Here is the whole floor installed, really pleased with how it turned out.

https://i.imgur.com/b9csJIUl.jpg

Next on the list is door alignment and cleaning up the engine bay.

Posted: **Wed Aug 21, 2019 7:41 am**

Hi Colin,
I've watched with interest your many posts on this thread. You are doing a tremendous job on your 109. So close now, we're getting excited for you. Keep up the good work and thanks to your family and your friends for their help and encouragement.
Bill

Posted: **Sun Aug 25, 2019 11:20 pm**

Hi Bill, thanks for the encouragement. I am getting very close but I am going to have to take a few steps backward and pull the gearbox since it is leaking an alarming amount of gear oil out of the bell housing. On top of that, it doesn't want to run right at all once warm.

Here's a list of what I have done

Coil from lightweight known to work
New Condensor
New Rotor
New Cap
Set original points
Swapped the Solex for a Weber from the lightweight

It seems to run fine for about 10 minutes then begins to die and almost impossible to start, once I get it started it will only run for about 30 seconds then dies again. The only thing really left is the fuel pump which as far as I can tell must be the culprit. I am stumped. When it runs it runs very well with good oil pressure but then it just dies.

Posted: **Mon Aug 26, 2019 10:47 am**

I had a similar problem with a series rover awhile back, would run fine for awhile then die. The problem was the coil overheating due to getting too much voltage so I would check to see if that is the problem (I used a spark tester to see what the spark was doing and also a laser thermometer to see how hot the coil was getting - when the coil got too hot the spark started to fail). The original rover coils are not internally regulated and were designed to run off of a ballasted ignition system that would lower the voltage (IIRC it was around 9 volts). if you are feeding straight 12v into a non-internally ballasted coil it could overheat and then cause the symptoms you describe until it cools off again. I would use a meter to check the voltage coming into the coil from the ignition to see if it is too high as that might be causing your problem. I solved that problem by adding a in-line ballast resister (I think it was from a mid-80s Chrysler... cost about $10 at Lordco) and the coil behaved after that. Here's a couple of good links that might help you: http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/lan ... rouble.htm
https://www.series123.com/UKhomepages/i ... index.html

Hope this helps, Rob

Posted: **Mon Aug 26, 2019 11:40 am**

Hi Colin,
Following on from Rob’s thoughts...
Do you know whether you have a ballasted supply or direct 12 volt. Ballasted supply 8-9 V should have a 1.5 Ohm coil, and 12 V a 3 Ohm coil. Check voltage at the +ve coil terminal with the ignition switched on but not cranking the starter. Coil resistance is easily checked with an Ohmeter between the +ve and -ve terminals.
Many thanks for a comprehensive build thread. Have enjoyed following along.
Eric.

Posted: **Sat Aug 31, 2019 10:00 am**

Hi all, I solved the issue. I got a different fuel pump from Matt and that has solved the problem, no more stalling and stopping it runs great! But now there are new issues to be dealt with.

The Radiator leaks from the top of the core
Temperature Gauge only reads to a maximum of 40 degrees Celcius, I think something is wrong with it because it used to read right. It is a new capillary style gauge.
Small oil leak from the front of the engine, it may be the front crank seal mudshield screws but I'm not sure.
Gearbox still leaks but I think it is the primary shaft corkscrew but I'm not sure.

Other than that it seems to run pretty good!

Posted: **Tue Sep 03, 2019 11:32 pm**

Got ahold of some Webers and Adaptor from Greg so I could give the lightweight back its carb. I had to make two out of one which worked out fine, I just need to rebuild it because the accelerator diaphragm is pouring gas out of the pivot point but other than that the truck drove well.

https://i.imgur.com/iNt62XUl.jpg

I had put a Zenith on there to try it out but that turned out to be a dud which ran so rich you would've thought it was a diesel. It then died on me after doing a tour of the field and wouldn't start again. So that came off and the weber went on.

After that I decided to take a break from mechanical work and switch to cosmetic work like installing the toolbox lids. I had to "make them work" with the hardware I have since this tub had the hinge bolts drilled in a different spot compared to the lids, but none the less, they are installed and latch properly.

https://i.imgur.com/fS6uLhsl.jpg

Also popped the tailgate on, now my dog won't fall out the back!

https://i.imgur.com/OjR8pV1l.jpg

Also added some elephant hide chainsleeves

https://i.imgur.com/y28Wibhl.jpg

Saw this tip on facebook as well, if your chains keep falling off the trick is to add a bit of hose. Not sure if it's common knowledge but I thought it was very clever.

https://i.imgur.com/ujJ7IEAl.jpg

Posted: **Thu Sep 05, 2019 8:48 pm**

Trucks looking great buddy.. Can't wait for its first scratch run lol

Posted: **Sat Sep 14, 2019 8:44 am**

Slowly getting there! I rebuilt the weber carb on Monday, it seems to run a lot better but still leaks gas out of somewhere, is there some seals I am forgetting about??

https://i.imgur.com/RnIxA1Ol.jpg

Also installed a Series III radiator after finding a leak in the original rad, one day I may get it recored. I didn't have the Series III shroud or expansion tank but thankfully Matt had some in stock.

https://i.imgur.com/WmK0OWul.jpg

Then Bjorn and I set the door gaps with ratchet straps to align the bulkhead with the tub. I set the gap I liked between the door and the bulkhead and then I tightened the ratchet strap until I was happy with the gap between the door and tub. Then I gave it one extra click so when we took the straps off after my dad and I tightened the bolts it would settle where I wanted it.

https://i.imgur.com/iyrT2Qal.jpg

This evening my dad and I threw the wings on. Really pleased with how it looks but they sure are a pain in the butt to put on. Hopefully, I have a few bolt plates in the shop otherwise it's going to be very hard to put that left wing on.

https://i.imgur.com/YSEM4PGl.jpg

Just need some lights in the wings now and the hood! Maybe a windshield and roof too...

Posted: **Mon Sep 16, 2019 1:04 pm**

Hood and lights are installed! As well as a new battery and coolant to the system. The water gauge isn't working at all now. I don't think I kinked it but who knows.

https://i.imgur.com/5xb8UVrl.jpg

Bled the brakes again last night but they still need adjusting they don't do much when you put your foot down. Here's my dad taking it for a drive.

https://i.imgur.com/Mcq5Dkrl.jpg

We also need to finish installing the mudshields which are a real pain they needed to be heavily modified to fit. Getting close to taking it for a drive down the road!

Posted: **Wed Sep 18, 2019 6:29 pm**

Its great to see another old Series Truck saved from the scrap yard, sooooooo much work but the results are priceless. Well done!

:1tonpull: wont be long until you'll be pulling Bjorn's Toyota out of the water holes on the Whipsaw :wink:

Posted: **Thu Sep 19, 2019 9:10 pm**

Not cool Andy not cool 😂

Posted: **Fri Sep 27, 2019 11:57 pm**

Hi Andy yes it's great to see all this hard work start paying off. There is still plenty to do that's for sure! I need to focus on getting a roof. It will be a while till I run the whipsaw with this one, but there will be plenty of other opportunities to pull Bjorn out I'm certain.

Been busy the past two weeks putting bits on. I now have the windscreen and wipers in place. I shipped my dual gauge off to the company that made it they kindly agreed to repair it. It may take some time since it has to go to the UK and back.

https://i.imgur.com/vj3pVYZl.jpg

Wiper's look very good with the green.

https://i.imgur.com/oUskn49l.jpg

Took it out for a spin for Chinese food last Saturday, the fuel tank is filled with this fine sediment from old gas that is wreaking havoc on the fuel system.

https://i.imgur.com/vN0HhsCl.jpg

So I had to pull the tank which was a bit annoying, I spent the afternoon cleaning it with CLR and pinesol. After leaving pinesol in the tank for around two hours most of the crud is gone but there are a few stains on the side left. I think if pinesol and CLR can't remove it gasoline will have no effect as well. So I am tempted to leave it but I have a feeling I shouldn't.

I also got a new fuel pump in because the old one was not keeping up at around 55 miles per hour.

https://i.imgur.com/ZaXYZlwl.jpg

Posted: **Sun Sep 29, 2019 10:56 pm**

Happy to report that cleaning out the fuel tank and replacing the fuel pump has fixed the problem. The truck is running really well now but of course, there are always new issues that come up. The head gasket is now leaking there is coolant coming down the side of the engine. I am going to retorque the head to hopefully fix the problem. It is not a drastic leak I don't think the gasket is broken, it just has water coming down the side of the engine there is no water in the oil or oil in the water as far as I can tell.

I have been driving it around for the past few days and am really enjoying it other than the rough ride. I think it is because the front springs are touching the frame. It seems as though I have SWB shackles on a Series III 109 frame and the part number appears to be different for a 109 Series III front shackle.

Here it is up the hill enjoying the sunshine.

https://i.imgur.com/hueKGBdl.jpg

Other than that the issues are minimal the gearbox is still leaking nothing new there. I guess I have to get used to series ownership. The rear main seal may be leaking as well but it seems to be only a little drip so I will probably leave it alone.

Posted: **Sun Oct 06, 2019 8:21 am**

Well done!!

Posted: **Mon Oct 07, 2019 9:23 pm**

Thanks JS! I'm really pleased with how it turned out.

Been sorting through a few issues after it's inaugural Rover Run! Tweaked it so the turn signals can be operated with 1 finger instead of a whole hand to make it work. There was also an intermittent horn honking issue when it was turned halfway and pushed against it would ground out on the screws that held the collar onto the wheel. This lead to a few awkward honks when backing up in parking lots and a few funny looks. Glad to have that sorted.

https://i.imgur.com/1mHW0Rcl.jpg

Going to have to start work on taking apart the truck again, unfortunately the gearbox is just leaking too much (even for a Land Rover!) It shouldn't take very long to fix the gearbox has to come out and then go back in

There are a few other leaks here and there, I think the oil pressure line is split by the filter there seems to be a film of oil all over the front propshaft and right hand side engine block and frame rail. The engine lost a bit of oil off the dipstick from the run yesterday but I think that is what is causing the issue since I can't smell any burning oil.

As far as I can tell the head gasket is no longer leaking, torquing it up seems to have done the trick. Some of the bolts were finger tight. In hindsight I should've checked them beforehand but the issue seems to be sorted.

Looking forward to getting it out on more runs once the cab is on!

Posted: **Sun Oct 13, 2019 11:28 pm**

Been busy with the 109 over the past few days. I have to find a replacement oil pressure line it seems to be broken and spraying oil all over the right engine bay. Nobody in Duncan would touch it so hopefully I have more luck in Victoria at Greenline hoses.

I finally got around to ordering the longer shackles for the 109. Amazing how much of a difference 1/2 an inch makes! Here is a comparison of the old shackle and new.

https://i.imgur.com/8CTtr50l.jpg

Now the spring doesn't touch the frame! I can actually make the truck bounce when I stand on the bumper. Really looking forward to taking it for a test drive to see how much better the ride is.

https://i.imgur.com/OH2HD8cl.jpg

I then finally decided to get on with pulling the gearbox, really not as bad as I thought it would be just a lot of dissasembling. Here it is ready to be pulled.

https://i.imgur.com/9hkRAKil.jpg

On the floor and then up onto the workbench

https://i.imgur.com/ynxIMeFl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/m326L2il.jpg

Once I took the clutch housing off the problem was obvious! It was the wrong gasket on the throwout housing.

https://i.imgur.com/x0FQC8Yl.jpg

This also meant I had the wrong throwout for my transmission. Thankfully my original transmission had one. Here they are side by side. The one on the left is the kind I need, which I stole off the old transmission. The one on the right is the wrong kind with a different outline which did not match the bellhousing, no wonder it leaked...

https://i.imgur.com/bFna860l.jpg

Should be ready in the next few days to go back together and should leak significantly less!

Posted: **Mon Oct 14, 2019 6:56 am**

As you note, the left release housing is a suffix a with the small front layshaft bearing while right is from a b on box with the larger layshaft bearing. Mixing them causes the gap and leakage.
Swapping to the correct parts should resolve the puddles under the truck from that source at least.

Posted: **Sun Oct 20, 2019 10:19 pm**

Hi Timberpig, so far so good! No drips to report but I won't deny that it is still leaking from other places like the gear selectors and filler cap on top. I will have to learn to accept that these old trucks will always leak. There are a few other areas where it's leaking but until it is more than a small drip I won't worry about it. So far this truck leaks significantly less than it did before so I am satisfied. I need to get out and enjoy it instead of crawling under it worrying about small drips :D

Getting the gearbox back in was much easier than I thought, I used the floor jack to line up the engine relative to the gearbox angle, then it just slid in with a bit of fiddling. The hardest part was getting it past the handbrake pivot and the exhaust which took a fair bit of shaking and manipulating.

https://i.imgur.com/1D0zT5Ll.jpg

After I got it back in I thought I screwed something up because I couldn't get the truck to shift nicely, it turned out to be because I had done the top cover up on the gearbox too tight. After loosening that things were better but I still couldn't get it to change gears nicely. I think the clutch had frozen to the pressure plate or flywheel. So I went in and had lunch and thought about it for a while, when I came back I fiddled with the slave cylinder pushrod and that seemed to be the ticket, it now shifts better than it did before I had the gearbox out (Maybe just my double-clutching skills increased). Now the truck is all back together and ready for a pickup cab or soft top and a heater!

Now that it's rained quite hard while driving I need to sort these wipers out, they are bad! I can't for the life of me get the splined thing for the wiper to stay tight on the wiper spindle so the arms stop turning and eventually fall off. My plan is to get some green loctite for bearings and put that on, it comes off with a bit of heat if I ever need to get the wiper off so it shouldn't be an issue. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for making the arms stay on?

Posted: **Mon Oct 21, 2019 10:24 pm**

cbalme wrote: Sun Oct 20, 2019 10:19 pm Hi Timberpig, so far so good! No drips to report but I won't deny that it is still leaking from other places like the gear selectors and filler cap on top. I will have to learn to accept that these old trucks will always leak. There are a few other areas where it's leaking but until it is more than a small drip I won't worry about it. So far this truck leaks significantly less than it did before so I am satisfied. I need to get out and enjoy it instead of crawling under it worrying about small drips :D

Getting the gearbox back in was much easier than I thought, I used the floor jack to line up the engine relative to the gearbox angle, then it just slid in with a bit of fiddling. The hardest part was getting it past the handbrake pivot and the exhaust which took a fair bit of shaking and manipulating.

https://i.imgur.com/1D0zT5Ll.jpg

After I got it back in I thought I screwed something up because I couldn't get the truck to shift nicely, it turned out to be because I had done the top cover up on the gearbox too tight. After loosening that things were better but I still couldn't get it to change gears nicely. I think the clutch had frozen to the pressure plate or flywheel. So I went in and had lunch and thought about it for a while, when I came back I fiddled with the slave cylinder pushrod and that seemed to be the ticket, it now shifts better than it did before I had the gearbox out (Maybe just my double-clutching skills increased). Now the truck is all back together and ready for a pickup cab or soft top and a heater!

Now that it's rained quite hard while driving I need to sort these wipers out, they are bad! I can't for the life of me get the splined thing for the wiper to stay tight on the wiper spindle so the arms stop turning and eventually fall off. My plan is to get some green loctite for bearings and put that on, it comes off with a bit of heat if I ever need to get the wiper off so it shouldn't be an issue. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for making the arms stay on?

Glad to hear it solved that leak.

As you say, they all leak to some degree so the goal is keeping them to small drips instead of recreating the Exxon Valdez.

Great work on the rebuild, your truck looks great and now that the hard work is over you can start enjoying the product of all your hard work.

Posted: **Mon Nov 18, 2019 10:08 pm**

Slow progress over the past few weeks but things are still getting done! I have been working on the pickup cab trying to get it ready for paint, just waiting for a sunny day to start respraying it. Here it is being tested on the truck.

https://i.imgur.com/8KQQBavl.jpg

I also installed new windscreens a few weeks back, but there was a fault in the lamination in one so I had to change the drivers side glass twice.

https://i.imgur.com/pA73pPkl.jpg

Also got my heater control and fan switch installed as well as a cigarette lighter. Now I can charge my phone without having to make something up for the inspection socket. Really pleased with how this turned out, originally I was going to make something out of a plate of steel but I'm glad I kept the original panel.

https://i.imgur.com/DvpRGGAl.jpg

Also added a washer jet which will be very convenient after a dusty day on the trail. It made me sad to drill a hole in the hood but I will not regret having a sprayer.

https://i.imgur.com/Rtq8smIl.jpg

The Rover-Landers of BC

Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.