I've got a bad leak oil from my front pinion oil seal and need to replace it (1966 Series IIA with a Rover axle). Thought I might as well replace the outer bearing while I'm at it.
The problem is I can't get the damned flange off. I've removed the retaining pin and castle nut (which was supposed to be the hard part), and the retaining washer behind the nut is off, but the pinion flange is stuck on tight. I've tried everything from gentle pulling and penetrating oil, to a pry bar, to a torch to loosen it up, to a 5 lb sledge with a block of wood. It won't budge.
Any ideas?
Chris
Solved: Series IIA Front Pinion Flange Removal :?
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Hectorious
- Learner Driver
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Solved: Series IIA Front Pinion Flange Removal :?
Last edited by Hectorious on Sat Dec 07, 2013 1:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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island dormy
- Drag Link
- Posts: 620
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Re: Series IIA Front Pinion Flange Removal :?
Hi Chris
I did this job last winter on my Dormobile (1962). The drive flange should just pull off once the big nut is off. Try taping it in and out with a small hammer. Try gently taping it sideways with the hammer on all 4 sides then in and out again, it should come off.
Remove the retainer that holds the oil seal and then the bearing, watch out as the spacers and heavy washer for setting the preload on the outer bearing may fall out. They have to go back in a certain order. ( Check the book).
You say that you want to change the bearing, they are supposed to be changed as a matched set (bearing and race) I do not think you can change the race of the outer bearing without completely dismantelling the whole diff.. The race for the outer bearing has to be punched out from the inside. I know of no way to pull the race from the outside with out cutting it . (Maybe there is a specialized tool for this??) You also have to work around the crown wheel drive shaft which is still sticking out.
Check the bearing it may be okay still.
1.This bearing changed size in about 1962 as the 2a model came out and there are 2 differant sizes available. The parts guys are not even aware of this.
2. Check the pinion drive flange where it rubs the seal for roughness and ridges, putting a new seal on and not assuring the flange is 100% perfect will only last 100 miles. If you have to order a new flange you might as well also order a new mud shield as it may get damaged pulling it off the drive flange.
3. Remember to pack grease in the new seal before you install it.
4.The outer nut has to be tightened up to 85 foot pounds torque I made up a 2 foot long bar with 2 holes that matched the drive flange bolt pattern to hold the flange tight while torquing up the nut. ( If the preload on the outer bearing was correct before and you use the old bearing and shims it should still be okay). The flange should turn easy by hand pressure and should have no up and down or in and out play.
Hope I did not miss anything, good luck.
Victor
I did this job last winter on my Dormobile (1962). The drive flange should just pull off once the big nut is off. Try taping it in and out with a small hammer. Try gently taping it sideways with the hammer on all 4 sides then in and out again, it should come off.
Remove the retainer that holds the oil seal and then the bearing, watch out as the spacers and heavy washer for setting the preload on the outer bearing may fall out. They have to go back in a certain order. ( Check the book).
You say that you want to change the bearing, they are supposed to be changed as a matched set (bearing and race) I do not think you can change the race of the outer bearing without completely dismantelling the whole diff.. The race for the outer bearing has to be punched out from the inside. I know of no way to pull the race from the outside with out cutting it . (Maybe there is a specialized tool for this??) You also have to work around the crown wheel drive shaft which is still sticking out.
Check the bearing it may be okay still.
1.This bearing changed size in about 1962 as the 2a model came out and there are 2 differant sizes available. The parts guys are not even aware of this.
2. Check the pinion drive flange where it rubs the seal for roughness and ridges, putting a new seal on and not assuring the flange is 100% perfect will only last 100 miles. If you have to order a new flange you might as well also order a new mud shield as it may get damaged pulling it off the drive flange.
3. Remember to pack grease in the new seal before you install it.
4.The outer nut has to be tightened up to 85 foot pounds torque I made up a 2 foot long bar with 2 holes that matched the drive flange bolt pattern to hold the flange tight while torquing up the nut. ( If the preload on the outer bearing was correct before and you use the old bearing and shims it should still be okay). The flange should turn easy by hand pressure and should have no up and down or in and out play.
Hope I did not miss anything, good luck.
Victor
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mepham55
- Spanner Man
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- Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2004 8:38 pm
- Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Re: Series IIA Front Pinion Flange Removal :?
Hi Chris,
Sounds like you need a bigger hammer. I wouldn't bother changing bearings unless you know its shot. The oil seal is an easy change once you get the pinion flange off.
I'm agree %100 with Victor ^^^, once you get the pinion flange off inspect the area where the oil seal runs, if it's grooved or worn at all, a new seal won't help at all. You'll need a new pinion flange (approx. $40).
Most of my diff leaks come from the drain plug in the bottom, I seal the threads with as non hardening sealant when installing the drain plug and that seems to help for a while.
Matt
Sounds like you need a bigger hammer. I wouldn't bother changing bearings unless you know its shot. The oil seal is an easy change once you get the pinion flange off.
I'm agree %100 with Victor ^^^, once you get the pinion flange off inspect the area where the oil seal runs, if it's grooved or worn at all, a new seal won't help at all. You'll need a new pinion flange (approx. $40).
Most of my diff leaks come from the drain plug in the bottom, I seal the threads with as non hardening sealant when installing the drain plug and that seems to help for a while.
Matt
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Hectorious
- Learner Driver
- Posts: 48
- Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2013 5:34 pm
- Location: Victoria, BC
Re: Series IIA Front Pinion Flange Removal :?
Thanks for the advice. I tried a bigger hammer and that didn't work, but I managed to get it off quite easily after investing in a flange puller tool. $45, but it saved frustration and more skinned knuckles. The old oil seal was encased in steel, so I had to crack that open before getting it off. The rubber on the inside was almost non-existent, and smelled burnt. Likely a result of a lack of oil in the first place. Anyway, the new gasket went on relatively easily, and I took your advice and didn't replace the bearing, as it looked okay.
So, all to say, thanks for the advice, and if anyone needs to borrow a flange puller, I now have one I likely won't be using much.
BTW, Matt, I have your replacement clutch master cylinder rebuild kit. Let me know when it is convenient to drop it off.
Chris
So, all to say, thanks for the advice, and if anyone needs to borrow a flange puller, I now have one I likely won't be using much.
BTW, Matt, I have your replacement clutch master cylinder rebuild kit. Let me know when it is convenient to drop it off.
Chris