my 65 SIIa 2.25l bogs and sputters when I put my foot in it and then eventually starts to build power and speed. This also happens on take off, which means I have to keep the engine speed higher then normal to start moving... At higher speeds it runs fairly well but seems to miss a bit as if it's not always getting fuel or maybe not firing the fuel in on of the pistons occasionally... When I retard the timing it bogs slightly more but the high speed sputter goes away, when I advance the time the bogging decreases but the high speed sputtering returns...
Technical facts...
2.25l gas engine
Flame Thrower Distributor and coil
34ICH single barrel Webber Carb
Perfomrance exhaust manifold and 2 1/4 exhuast pipe with high flow muffler(it helps) :P
I suspect timing or vacuum advance, but the problem with checking the timing is that the mark on the pulling isn't correct, for some reason it's no where near TDC... Not sure how I screwed that up, there is only one way it can go on!
As for the vacuum advance it's a relatively new distributor and has run very well up to now...
Could it also be the carb pushing too much fuel? I sort of suspected that it's the ignition not using all the fuel...
Suggestions?
Thanks in advance,
Andrew
Motor bogs when you put your foot in it...
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andrewMcF
- Crank Case
- Posts: 125
- Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 9:30 pm
- Location: Kelowna
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ssortnarg
2.25
I had the same fight with my 2.25 .
In the end installed a carb kit and got rid of the worst of the problem .
Then discovered the head gasket was leaking .
Suggest you check compression - if ok consider the carb kit .
Got the carb kit from Pierce manifolds in Ca . Good service - fair price .
Before you go for the carb kit - check the float level - mine was way off - float was too low - cut off incoming fuel before bowl was 1/2 full .
In the end installed a carb kit and got rid of the worst of the problem .
Then discovered the head gasket was leaking .
Suggest you check compression - if ok consider the carb kit .
Got the carb kit from Pierce manifolds in Ca . Good service - fair price .
Before you go for the carb kit - check the float level - mine was way off - float was too low - cut off incoming fuel before bowl was 1/2 full .
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ssortnarg
setting float
FLOAT LEVEL - ICH, ICT & DICA
It is essential that the following directions be complied with in order to obtain correct leveling of the float.
Make sure (only for brass float) that the same does not show any pit. Check that the float can freely slide on its axis.
Make sure that the needle valve is tightly screwed in its housing and that the pin ball of the dampening device, incorporated in the needle, is not jammed.
Keep the carburetor cover in the vertical position, since the weight of the float could lower the pin ball fitted on the needle.
Make sure that the float clip is perpendicular to the needle and does not have any indentation on the contact surface which might affect the free movement of the needle itself.
With carburetor cover in the vertical position, and float clip in light contact with the pin ball on the needle, the distance of the float from the upper surface of carburetor cover (with gasket fitted) must measure 6.5mm for brass float, and 36mm for plastic float.
After leveling has been done check that the stroke of the brass float is 6.5mm, and the plastic float is 8.5mm. If necessary adjust the position of the lug.
Check that the return hook of the needle allows it free movement on its seat.
NOTE: The operations of the leveling float must be carried out whenever it is necessary to replace float or fuel inlet needle valve. In this last case it is advisable to also replace the sealing gasket, making sure that the new needle valve is tightly screwed in its housing.
from pierce manifolds website
It is essential that the following directions be complied with in order to obtain correct leveling of the float.
Make sure (only for brass float) that the same does not show any pit. Check that the float can freely slide on its axis.
Make sure that the needle valve is tightly screwed in its housing and that the pin ball of the dampening device, incorporated in the needle, is not jammed.
Keep the carburetor cover in the vertical position, since the weight of the float could lower the pin ball fitted on the needle.
Make sure that the float clip is perpendicular to the needle and does not have any indentation on the contact surface which might affect the free movement of the needle itself.
With carburetor cover in the vertical position, and float clip in light contact with the pin ball on the needle, the distance of the float from the upper surface of carburetor cover (with gasket fitted) must measure 6.5mm for brass float, and 36mm for plastic float.
After leveling has been done check that the stroke of the brass float is 6.5mm, and the plastic float is 8.5mm. If necessary adjust the position of the lug.
Check that the return hook of the needle allows it free movement on its seat.
NOTE: The operations of the leveling float must be carried out whenever it is necessary to replace float or fuel inlet needle valve. In this last case it is advisable to also replace the sealing gasket, making sure that the new needle valve is tightly screwed in its housing.
from pierce manifolds website
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DaveB
- Defender of the World
- Posts: 1749
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 7:45 pm
- Location: Vernon, BC
Also, make sure your accelerator pump is actually pumping fuel. Depending on the carb you can often access this linkage from the outside and pump it with the engine idling (or slightly above idle) to see if you get an increase in revs. If you don't see an increase then its likely the pump diaphram(s), plugged passages, or linkage that's the problem, thus you need a carb kit...
Happy hunting!
Happy hunting!
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andrewMcF
- Crank Case
- Posts: 125
- Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 9:30 pm
- Location: Kelowna
part number for kit?
Any one have a part number for a rebuild kit for the Weber 34ICH that I can take to Lordco or NAPA.
Andew
Andew
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andrewMcF
- Crank Case
- Posts: 125
- Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 9:30 pm
- Location: Kelowna
Brand?
What brand of kit is that, I took that number to Lordco before and they looked at my like I had my head glued on backwards... they asked for the number off the side of the carb, so I walked out to the truck pulled 3-250 of the side thinking that there is no way that's going to work. Gave the number to the guy at the desk and he's like "it will be here tomorrow." "Really?" says I, "Yup." says the partsman. ummmm sure okay... The kit gets here and it's no where near the right one. Go figure...
Andrew
Andrew