109 Fuel tank removal...

[andrewMcF]

My 1967(?) 109 5 door has been sitting for 5 years.. so the gas is bad and smelly!! So I need to remove the fuel tank, it's in the back, not under the passenger. How do I remove the tank, the top side of the four bolts are extremely difficult to access... the back has a 2.25 rover diesel engine sitting on it so it's hard to see everything, but if I take a peak under the floor mat it looks like the floor comes out with rivets, at least by the back door it looks that way... The motor comes out this weekend and I want to "BRING THE BEAST ALIVE!" LOLOLOL <evil laugh... :twisted:

Thanks,
Andrew

[Dave_F]

My 1967(?) 109 5 door has been sitting for 5 years.. so the gas is bad and smelly!! So I need to remove the fuel tank, it's in the back, not under the passenger. How do I remove the tank, the top side of the four bolts are extremely difficult to access... the back has a 2.25 rover diesel engine sitting on it so it's hard to see everything, but if I take a peak under the floor mat it looks like the floor comes out with rivets, at least by the back door it looks that way... The motor comes out this weekend and I want to "BRING THE BEAST ALIVE!" LOLOLOL <evil laugh... :twisted:

Thanks,
Andrew

Do you need to do any repair work to the tank? If you want to just clean it, then drain it, remove the inspection plate in the rear tub floor. This is usually held in by two large screws. You will need to remove the engine from the rear tub to access the hatch, as it's position is almost over the rear axle http://www3.telus.net/shade/Rover/DSC_0198cover.jpg (alt+p) This will give you access to the fuel sender and wiring. You could then remove the sender and clean the tank with POR15 Marine Clean. This will remove all the varnish and sludge in the tank. Once done you need to make sure the tank is bone dry...hairdryer on no heat setting. before refilling the tank with fresh fuel.

Unfortunately chances are the bottom of the tank is rotted...check around all the bottom seams to see if there is any leakage. If the tank is very sludgey this may be blocking some of the holes...which will leak once cleaned.

The design of the skid/protection plate on the bottom of the tanks is a rust trap as dirt gets wedged in and then holds moisture...then the dreaded rust worm "attacks"!

If you do have leaks you have 3 options....drop the tank and take it to a repair shop like Leakers, or a rad shop that specializes in Gas tanks, Buy a new one...not bad for the tank ($279 USD @ Rovers North), but pricey shipping about $300....or try and repair it yourself. You can purchase from POR 15 a fuel tank renew kit. This consists of Marine Clean, then Metal Ready to etch the tank, then you pour in the POR15 tank sealer and slosh it around, then let it dry for about 3-4 days. I went this route on an auxiliary side tank and it worked like a charm. My main tank however went to Leakers for a complete re&re. Did away with the skid plate and went with a heavier guage steel for the bottom to eliminate future rust problems.

You can just try the Marine Clean method, but my experience tells me the tank will need repair anyway.

Keep us posted.

[andrewMcF]

Thanks for the tips, super helpful, but I still want to know the best way to drop the fuel tank out though...

Also to repair a leaky fuel tank I used a product called Red-Kote, Alan at Rover Works sold be a bottle of it many years ago when I did my 88, the tank was so bad that it was fouling the carberator, rinsed the tank, put the Red-Kote in, slosh around and don't breath!!! 8-10 years later still hold'n the tank together!!!

The only link I could find on the net was this one... I believe it's the stuff but would need Alan to confirm
http://www.ftrs.com.au/fueltanks/red_kote.php

[Dave_F]

Thanks for the tips, super helpful, but I still want to know the best way to drop the fuel tank out though...

Also to repair a leaky fuel tank I used a product called Red-Kote, Alan at Rover Works sold be a bottle of it many years ago when I did my 88, the tank was so bad that it was fouling the carberator, rinsed the tank, put the Red-Kote in, slosh around and don't breath!!! 8-10 years later still hold'n the tank together!!!

The only link I could find on the net was this one... I believe it's the stuff but would need Alan to confirm
http://www.ftrs.com.au/fueltanks/red_kote.php

There are 4 bolts holding the rear of the tank to the crossmember and two up high in each corner at the front of the tank.

The rear bolts are easy enough...the 2 top ones were cut out...using a mini recipricating saw. Carefull it's a heavy unit when it comes out...try and support it.

I believe the Red Coat is a similar product to POR 15....I would still clean and etch the tank, as the sealer needs something to hold on to.

[andrewMcF]

Nuts! So there is no easy way of accessing the top side of the bolts... :(

[Dave_F]

Nuts! So there is no easy way of accessing the top side of the bolts... :(

Nope...afraid not. Gotta get them from underneath.

[andrewMcF]

Tanks finally out! I think I would rather pull my own teeth!! lol

And here's the results...
The bottom...
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_TTfL08X-4xs/StQBW ... GP0022.JPG
Is the steel with the wholes in it a skid plate, not sure if I should try to pry it off...
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_TTfL08X-4xs/StQBY ... GP0025.JPG

The insides...
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_TTfL08X-4xs/StQBm ... GP0037.JPG
The tank...
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_TTfL08X-4xs/StQBV ... GP0021.JPG

I'll have to flush it out and see if it's salvagable....

[Dave_F]

The main tank is held onto the skid plate by a type of solder. Although your tank is older than mine, my Auxiallary tank uses the same "holey" method.

You HAVE TO MAKE SURE THE TANK IS COMPLETELY GAS FREE before attempting to remove the skid plate. Flush with water and sunlight dish detergent (liquid) a couple of times then let dry. flip the tank upside down and then apply some heat (plumbers torch) to the area's around the holes. You should start to see a solder melting out the sides by the holes. DO NOT PRY THE SKIDPLATE OFF. THe only way to remove the skid plate is to remove the solder.

Again make sure the tank is completely clean before applying any heat. GAS FUMES AND FLAME=BAD!

Chances are that the tank has rotted up through the bottom (particularly pay attention to the curved ends. Dirt gets trapped in between the plate and tank and voila...rust...then holes.

I had my bottom section of the tank removed and a higher gauge of steel used as a replacement. I did not remount the skid plate as the stronger steel should suffice and I didn't want a repeat of the rust again.