so about MY 200tdi...

[Glenn D.]

As you all know I Bought a 200 tdi, and got a good deal on it, It runs really well (so far) but I still have a couple of issues.

First, it seems to run hot.

I put on a higher pressure rad cap to keep the water in, and it seemed to help a bit , but but it still seems to have cooling problems. Sometimes the heater will blow cold when I idle then get HOT when I rev the motor ( this is after it has warmed up). Sometimes it get really hot (3/4+ on gauge) then suddenly cools right off to just above the middle.

It has a recored radiator, better than the original. Hoses seem not to leak much since I changed the clamps. The temp at the head reads about 87-89 (infrared) but on the water pump it seems to be higher like 99. I'm suspicious the water pump only sometimes moves the water. Like an air lock? or could a leak do this? Head gasket?
The electric fan seems to make no difference on or off.

No smoke, lots of power... but troubling.


Second.
I also have a lot of "judder" in my clutch now. I'm thinking oil seal? its the 2.5 na clutch still, but is was like new. I had the flywheel machined.
Or perhaps its the dreaded lt77 clunk!!? It intermittent.

So if anyone has any ideas, or magic solutions (Vendor or not).
I'd like to hear your advice.

Thanks

Glenn

[red90]

The best guess I have is a bad water pump (worn out). Pull it and see.

No idea about the clutch. Mine have always been smooth.

[JD]

might be an erratic thermostat or an incorrect one.

cheap and easy to check.

pull it out and put it in a pan of water with a turkey temp gauge. Watch where it opens and closes.

??

JD

[Roverworks]

Could be one thing or a combination of things.

Check your alternator is not putting out too much and causing the Temp gauge to read high (as you say when revving it). Is there a gauge voltage stabilizer in this wiring?

Check the Temp sensor is not damaged. As you did a conversion from another engine is the sender correct for the gauge? I would have to check the parts books

Check your thermostatic fan clutch is working properly and not engaged all the time.

The temperatures you are reading are not surprising. However, it is unusual for the temp to fluctuate. The correct OEM thermostat type should be used because they are said to operate correctly even under diesel vibration conditions.

Red 90 is right, Water pump is a likely source of your problem but before you pull it make sure you have purged the air from the cooling system. Any amount of air trapped at the water pump will cause it to cavitate. Also check your plumbing to the surge tank is correct and not kinked

No smoke is a good thing!

Alan Simpson
Rover Works B.C. Ltd

[Roverworks]

Woops …re-read your post and see you have an electric fan so disregard my comment on the fan clutch!

One other thing to consider is that the thermostat opening temperature is the minimum temp it will open at. After it opens much hotter fluid will rush through which explains the slightly higher temps (than the thermostat opening temp) you are reading.

Alan

[Greg S]

A key thing stands out for me from your description. That's the comment about the heater blowing cold even though the engine is warmed up. To me it is screaming that there is air in the system. When you rev it, some hot water will get trickled through the heater hoses but not enough to displace the air. When you idle, there isn't enough agitation from the water pump to splash hot water into the heater hoses.

As well as an airlock in the heater, I'd suspect a restricted heater hose.

[HeadDamage]

If none of the above a bad head gasket can let gases into the coolent and cause air locks. I believe another fellow on the coast had this problem with a 300tdi recently.

[Glenn D.]

So I think I'll start by putting in a new temp gauge, one that actually shows the temperature, not just a red line. Then flush the system, check the heater core for leaks. If I still have problems then I guess a pressure test, (for the rad and the cylinders/head gasket?).
Then a new water pump.
And then a new headgasket anyway if there are still issues?

Thanks for the input so far.

Glenn

[DaveB]

Hi Glenn,

I've found one of those little yellow plastic hose valves in the upper heater hose allows you to bleed off air and ensure your system is completely air free. I'd add that as well. I think Canuck tire carries them for about $2.

BTW, do you have an intercooler with your system? In my personal experience this had a big effect in evening out the erratic temperatures on my Pug diesel.

cheers, Dave

[Bill E.]

Hey Glenn, All good advice from the other posts, I'd put money on the air lock in the cooling system or in Alan's guage issues. Just a thought though, did you ever make up an engine shroud to fit with your installation. I was really surprised how much temperature increase there was when I briefly ran around without my radiator shroud in place.
Bill

[Glenn D.]

I finally broke down and left it at rovertech for a professional opinion.

I'll let you all know soon. But my money's on the headgasket.

Hope it's not the head.... I could be looking for a second job!!!


Glenn

[rovernutzz]

i am new here and hail from the uk (planning a move to bc)
i would say that its a thermostat problem...easy to pull it completely. i hope you have not cooked it over heating it..... sounds like you may have if you 'broke down'

let me know if you need any parts from the uk..... i am currently shipping tdi's to the usa and canada and happy to help out

Duncan.