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Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

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cbalme
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#151 Post by cbalme » Mon Oct 15, 2018 10:19 pm

Well, it seems as though it's two steps forward one step back so far with the painting of this truck. I said in my last post that I didn't care how the paint turned out, but I changed my mind. The bulkhead had rough sections and I tried to wet sand them just a bit too much and sanded through to the primer. I also missed a huge spot so it needs to go back in the booth. At the same time I will paint the wings and hood I think.

Most of the other parts turned out very good but some of them need redoing. Here's what it looks like right now, it's beginning to resemble a truck again!

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I had a huge debacle with the radiator shroud as well, it turns out the previous owner had installed a series 1 shroud and had just mangle it to make it fit. This shroud has the hole sitting about an inch lower than the standard Series 2 shroud. If anyone has one they are willing to sell it would be greatly appreciated, although I've been told they are not necessary. Here's the shroud interfering with the fan.

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There is a visible difference between the two shrouds

Series 1

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Series 2

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The radiator sans shroud for the moment.

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Also "restored" the heating system over the weekend. It's a Kodiak MkII so unfortunately it only has the very small heater pipes, but I figured there was no use upgrading to a MkIII or MkIV since it is only heating a small space inside the pickup cab. Unfortunately, my heater did not come with the ducting or cowl that forces the air into the matrix, I am also looking for one of those off of a MkII if anyone has one lying around. I have a feeling that someone has upgraded this heater with a larger matrix in the past as well, which should also compensate for the smaller diameter pipes. I have not tested the motor yet but everything has been flushed out and cleaned up.

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All the ducting inside the cab has been painting nicely with a few coats of gloss black.

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Hoping to get the bulkhead repainted on Friday along with the other bits and then give it a good week to cure, then it will stay on for good!
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#152 Post by franko » Tue Oct 16, 2018 7:51 am

Great progress Colin. Also nice to meet up and chat rovers yesterday 😊

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#153 Post by cbalme » Mon Nov 05, 2018 7:54 pm

Beginning to put all bits back on the bulkhead. I'm having trouble remembering where everything goes so if anyone sees anything amiss just let me know

So far the steering wheel and one vent is installed, that may not seem like a lot but it took a very long time to line everything up and shim it.

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Also installed the choke cable and starter button, now I just need to figure out how to wire it. I am assuming you ground the starter to the strengthening brack bolts? Sort of like this?

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Got the new shroud in and it fits as it should! No idea why there was a Series 1 shroud installed before.

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I'm also having an issue with the parabolic springs, They are touching the frame with only the engine installed. I tried installing military shackles but that makes the truck sit too high and the shocks are overextending. I think I may just cut the outer wrap off but if anyone has any other suggestions they would be useful. I have a set of LWB rear shackles that I could try using on the front, although wouldn't that mess with the steering geometry?

A few photos to help visualize what I'm dealing with.

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The axle sits very high at the moment, I have an ex military frame so it is installed in the lower hole at the moment

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Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#154 Post by mepham55 » Tue Nov 06, 2018 9:16 pm

Looks great Colin, this is going to be a nice truck! Don’t worry too much about the springs until you’ve completely assembled the truck. Leave the shackles just snugged up with the bolts and the nuts hand tight. They will settle and move a lot once you have all the weight in the truck and drive it. My parabolics also touch the frame at the rear of the front springs, I think the main leaf wrap should be tighter around the bushing but I don’t design/make these things. All of my trucks in the past have had dents in the frame where the rear of the front spring has contacted the frame.
Also, cut that top rad hose down a bit, it looks a little kinked!
Matt

1955 S1 107”
1959 S2 SWB
1966 S2a SWB
2006 LR3

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cbalme
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#155 Post by cbalme » Wed Nov 07, 2018 10:09 am

Hi Matt, I was looking at the frame and it seems as though the rear mount for the front spring is drilled farther up on the frame rail. I'll have a better look at my other LWB frames but for now, I think I'll put it back to normal. I would've thought if the spring was touching it would make for a very rough ride.

Yes the hose is kinked, I am waiting to put the wings on so I know how much needs cut off.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#156 Post by island dormy » Fri Nov 09, 2018 6:11 pm

Hi Colin

A lot of folks seem to have issues with the military wrap hitting the frame. I know Greg just cut his off. Land rover is the only company I have ever seen that does this military wrap thing. ( It is supposed to be a safety device) if the main leaf ever breaks the military wrap would hold the spring in position.

Sure hope my new parabolics don't have this issue.

Your Rover is looking great by the way.

Victor

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#157 Post by island dormy » Tue Nov 20, 2018 8:11 am

Hi Again Colin

After dropping by and looking at your project last week and looking at the problem with the front military wrap on the springs you mentioned that these were 15-20 year old brand new parabolics that hade never been installed on a running rover.
At about that time frame the military wraps were manufactured with too big a loop and hit the frame, the 4 new ones I just received a month ago from Rocky mountain are fine and look to be very good heavy duty springs.

So you bringing it to the big Island Rover event in June of 2019? And by bringing it I mean in running condition not on a trailer.

Victor

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#158 Post by cbalme » Tue Nov 20, 2018 10:03 pm

Hi Victor, should be on the road by then I hope. The to-do list is getting shorter and shorter. I think I will just cut the wrap off. Once all that painting is done there is just a lot of electrics and hydraulic lines to install and putting it all back together. Sounds simple right?


Got a few little jobs done this past week.

Most of the accelerator linkage is installed, just need to make some hole bigger for the pedal. It was stiff at first but I gave all the parts a good oiling and now it snaps back as it should. Hand throttle works nice and smooth as well.

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Fixed a safety hazard. Before this wire was dangling beside the exhaust.

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Both flaps are on now

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But the seals I bought from paddocks are JUNK, they do not even let the vent go down all the way once installed. I should've just gone with closed cell foam. Thankfully they weren't expensive.

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The good style of bonnet rest strip installed. Even though it does not compliment the green as much as the brown would've I'm sure it'll turn brown soon enough.

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Some nice new rubber pedal pads installed.

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I would've got so much more done if the 110 had not demanded most of my time, the 1-year-old Panhard rod bushings which were supposed to be OEM only lasted a year, and then I had to install a winch which took much longer than anticipated.

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Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#159 Post by BlkP38 » Tue Nov 20, 2018 11:20 pm

Hi Colin,
Clamp a 2 x4 across the noise flaps and the seals should settle OK.
Eric.

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cbalme
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#160 Post by cbalme » Sun Nov 25, 2018 11:38 pm

Hi Eric, you can not push it down more than halfway with the seals in place, they are too fat. I think I'll just cut up some foam from Canadian Tire if I cannot figure them out.

Helped a friend out to get his 86" up and running. we were able to take it around the block a few times for a spin. Lots of fun and very loud without an exhaust!

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Not much done on the 109 today, just got all three pedals installed and working smoothy. Next job will be hopefully plumbing them in!

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I have yet to trim the fender but that is the next job before they're painted.

Also began restoring the wiper motors now that they've turned up. There's always something about finding them in the last place you look.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#161 Post by cbalme » Tue Dec 04, 2018 10:15 am

Installed the Brake Master Cylinder and Servo over the weekend. There was another hole in the booster for which I assumed was for the vacuum loss switch. But that wont fit with the current MC. I also don't have the light on the dash for it so I have just taken it out and replaced it with an 85 cent plug instead of the $20 one from roversnorth

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With the plug installed, I'm assuming the servo is the right way round because the hose connector interferes with the Master Cylinder reservoir otherwise.

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Also got the brake light trigger installed. Had to free up the plate underneath with a bit of wd40 and chase the threads to get rid of the POR15 in them.

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Now all is left is to install the brake and clutch lines, then the hose from the intake manifold to the booster.

What sort of hose and connectors can I use on the Manifold? It looks as though the hose should be 1/4" or 3/8". Any help or suggestions would be appreciated as I haven't had much luck looking this up on the internet apart from Terrian's page on it.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#162 Post by island dormy » Wed Dec 05, 2018 8:50 am

Hi Colin

Most cars I have worked on have a 1/2 inch hose from the manifold to the brake booster.

Looking good. Maybe it will be ready for founders day.
Mine wont be, still waiting for parts in the mail from the mother land, 9 weeks now.

Victor

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#163 Post by cbalme » Mon Dec 10, 2018 7:13 pm

Did not get around to the booster hose yet, but am getting closer.

Was going to try and paint today but other things got in the way, I did get a few other things done though. Like trimming the fender to take the proper master cylinder and servo.

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Did not think it would turn out that nice with the tin snips but the cut is very clean.

Maybe I should go for the bare aluminum look

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Other than that I got the clutch line installed, unfortunately I wasted $10 buying an adaptor I did not need for the line to MC. If anyone needs one let me know.

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The line I was sent was a bit short for the way I routed it, it was designed for a series 2 but most likely there was no power booster tower in their measurements.

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Now I just need to properly adjust the slave cylinder, might actually have to open up the Haynes Manual for this one.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#164 Post by ANDYD » Tue Dec 11, 2018 12:33 pm

Great Progress! Must be good seeing her all (mostly) back together again. Wont be long now until you will get to feel the wind in your hair as you tear around the Island in the summer!
1991 Defender 110 / 2018 Evoque / 1956 Series 1- 86

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#165 Post by cbalme » Tue Dec 11, 2018 9:56 pm

Thanks Andy, the project really speeds up once the bulkhead is back on! I'm very excited to experience folded down windscreen cruising. I can't wait to take it all over the island it's going to be a lot of fun!

Other than dreaming I got a bit done on the Land Rover. The fittings from the Master Cylinder to Copper line seem to be leaking. I have done them up as tight as I can but there still seems to be a bit of fluid escaping. I will check back in the morning. Also, the Slave cylinder does not seem to be pushing far enough down to engage the clutch but I think there is still some air in the lines. The pedal is rather soft but after a few pumps it gets very firm.

Then I got the hood and wings finally painted! They look very good and were so much easier to paint than the bulkhead

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Accidentally mixed up too much bronze green and rather than dumping it out we decided to paint some rusty equipment. All that overspray just means more is protected!

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I think I will leave the wings in the booth until all the brake lines are bent up and in place for the extra convenience.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#166 Post by Rambler » Wed Dec 12, 2018 8:18 am

Thanks for sharing your beautiful restoration.

Having fitted all new brake lines and master cylinders,and slaves cylinders, I had the same problem ,leaking from near enough every joint, I didn’t want to over tighten them. Not sure of the solution, but some suggest using a hydraulic sealant from permatex on each fitting, of course that would mean draining and re bleeding :roll:

I did anneal my new copper washers for the connections where needed.
Good luck.
- ‘61 Series 2 88" (project restoration)
- ‘57 Series 1 88” (next in line)

Sold:
- ‘74 Series 3 88" (now sunning itself in the Carolina's)!

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#167 Post by Christopher Lang » Wed Dec 12, 2018 10:17 am

That's looking great!!

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#168 Post by island dormy » Wed Dec 12, 2018 4:52 pm

Hi Colin

To adjust the clutch slave cylinder do this, from underneath push the clutch release arm and the push rod up as far as you can then adjust the push rod (on the slave cylinder) so you have about 1/16th free play. Pump the clutch a couple of times and if the air is all bled out it should be adjusted correctly. Some clutch slave cylinders had a medium strength spring on them to pull the arm back up. Some later ones did not, it will work either way.

Your master cylinder may also need adjusting if the clutch will not release properly.

The clutch is very easy to bleed you should have no problems doing that. The clutch release arm should be sitting at about 3:00 O clock when the pressure starts to go on it.

Victor

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#169 Post by cbalme » Wed Dec 12, 2018 7:57 pm

I may have to anneal the washer that goes on the slave cylinder I did not think of that since they were new washers I assumed they were good. I may have to go pick up some of that sealant before I get too much else on.

I'll try adjusting the clutch using your method Victor. So I push the arm up which pushes the piston inside the slave cylinder to the top then I turn the nut on the pushrod to extend the pushrod so the arm sits at 3 o'clock?

I will try bleeding it again because it seems to have a delay which it shouldn't have at all.

Other than fussing over the clutch operation I got a few other odd jobs done

Refitted the standard shackles in place of the extended military ones, it now looks much better not being all crooked like before

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Tightened down all the other fittings on the installed brake lines (Some were very loose!)

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Also trimmed the top hose but I think I still need to take a bit more off

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Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#170 Post by bsa_m21 » Thu Dec 13, 2018 8:09 am

Lovely build!

One suggestion - you may want to shorten the rear brake line to remove that large curved gap over the axle. Although it will be under the frame and above the axle, it's still a prime target for branches and the like if you decide to off-road her. :x

Keep up the great work!
Martin
=======
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'80 Triumph TR7v8 (Rover 4L) - Myrtle
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#171 Post by cbalme » Tue Jan 01, 2019 11:42 pm

Martin, that's on my list of things to do. I need to cut the ends off and reflare them and then route them to follow the axle better. I must've ordered the wrong kit for my truck. Every single flare is a double flare when most should be bubbles. Didn't anticipate having to learn how to flare brake lines on this project but that seems to be happening.

Unfortunately, most of the Christmas break has not been spent in the shop like it should've been. I have been getting odd jobs done but these brake and clutch lines are a real pain. Hopefully the clutch line will hold fluid, I cranked down on it bionically tight and it appears to be dry on the outside, I'll find out tomorrow morning whether it is coming off for a second time. Other than that I have been practicing my flaring and painting odds and ends.

Hood release refinished in faux metal plating. Tremclad Hammered Silver, although the hammered finish seems to be missing.

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Speedo cable installed, had to make a retaining plate out of a washer because I didn't want to ship a new one over from England.

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Does anyone have a photo of the routing? I don't know where it goes other than the hole in the bulkhead. At the moment it just follows along the chassis rail and then up the firewall

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When I get frustrated with the brake lines I've been turning to easier projects like the restoration of the fancy turn signal switch. I have two of them, and both of them are incomplete. Fortunately, one can be made from two. So far I have the outer case painted and have separated the good parts from the bad ones. I also ordered a fancy wiring loom for it, which will be soldered on to the switch thingy on the bottom. Another skill I'll have to learn.

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May have found the reason why the transfer case was leaking excessively. Replaced it with a stud in much better condition.

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I get the feeling Murphy approves of the build.

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Hopefully be able to get all the brake lines installed before I got back to school on the 7th. Then onto wiring!
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#172 Post by mepham55 » Wed Jan 02, 2019 5:20 pm

Looks great Colin. The speedo cable crosses over the main gearbox right in front of where you will attach your main head lever bracket (that odd shaped half moon plate) then it head up and into the bulkhead dash area. The only cable clips I’ve seen are on the bottom of the rear pto blanking plate and the chassis rail, other than that it just lays on top of the gearbox.

Matt

1955 S1 107”
1959 S2 SWB
1966 S2a SWB
2006 LR3

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#173 Post by island dormy » Wed Jan 02, 2019 6:50 pm

Hi Colin

The route for the speedo cable is as Matt says but there is a clip that holds the cable to that weird half moon shaped plate. Just a metal clip with rubber that goes onto the left side nut on that moon piece.

To get hammertone paint to do the hammertone thing you have to spray it on twice as thick as normal spray paint, then it runs if you are un-lucky it is a real art to make it do its thing.

Looking good. Victor

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#174 Post by John » Thu Jan 03, 2019 11:19 am

Colin,

If you go back to tidy up the rear axle brake lines note that the junction block should sit behind the bracket and not above it.

Regards,
John

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#175 Post by cbalme » Fri Jan 04, 2019 7:00 pm

Hi Guys, so far this is how I've got cable routed. I think I may change the place the clip on the chassis rail is attached to so I can undo it if necessary instead of being underneath the seatbox.

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Other than that I got most of the brake lines correctly flared and took apart the starter which has turned into a bad idea. I broke one of the brush springs so I will have to take it apart more before it can go back together and put it back on the vehicle. I shouldn't have taken it apart.

Also polished the headlight bezels, they came out quite nicely considering they're original.

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I'm also having issues bleeding the clutch, there must be an air pocket stuck somewhere. I can pump the clutch and build up the pressure and then I can change gears as I should be able to so I think that's a telltale sign of air in the system. Good news is that I haven't seen any leaks today.

I adjusted the pedal height and master cylinder play and it all seems proper, the only one I haven't set right is the operating linkage play, not really sure how to gauge that.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#176 Post by island dormy » Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:58 am

Hi Colin

There is no clip for the speedo cable on top of the frame rail, just on that half moon shaped access plate by the main gear shift lever attachment spot and by the speedo drive attachment into the transmission.

The place I found on the Island to get those tiny coiled brush springs for the starter was the starter shop across the highway from the Nanaimo airport. He had then they were about $5.00 each and you may as well change them all if you look closely at them they will probably be rusty and also ready to break. Note you should bring the old ones with you when you go as there are many different kinds and shapes. I might be going by there this coming week and could stop and get you some.
Or you could try the starter shop near downtown Victoria he may have them if you take you in to match up, your down there anyway.

Looking good.

Victor

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#177 Post by cbalme » Mon Jan 07, 2019 11:08 pm

Hi Victor, brought the starter down with me, I will try and find a shop. Any suggestions?

Now back to school progress will slow even more. But did some more destruction than construction over the weekend while bending brake lines.

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Bent up the lefthand side, it may have been slightly kinked in the process but I hope it works out. This is the only route I could find that could work, it doesn't hit the radiator at all.

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Righthand side bent up. I decided to go underneath the frame rail because I think that's how it's done on the Series 3 lines.

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Both lines match up equally at a tee piece below the air cleaner, where I will hold it down with a roofing screw or something more elaborate like the original way it was held down.

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All back to normal held down by push down clips that came with the kit.

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Then bent the lines across the bulkhead. Bit of a pain so they look quite messy but they're done.

Image
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#178 Post by cbalme » Mon Jan 14, 2019 10:12 am

Cleaned up the lines on the rear axle, they look much smarter now.

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Ran the brake line to the back axle and then hooked it up to the line from the MC using a connector since I don't have the special valve thing.

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Then made another line for the front system to the MC, it was about a foot long but I don't have a photo.

After that I got the whole system bled with my Dad, now we just need to solve a few leaks here and there but nothing too major thankfully.

One more job pretty much done, now onto spraying more and more parts and the electrics!
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#179 Post by cbalme » Sun Jan 20, 2019 11:04 pm

So far so good! No leaks as far as I can tell on the braking system but I'll find out if any are hiding after the initial test drive.

Got the turn signal restoration finished this weekend. I'll have to test the circuit again to make sure everything is right, we soldered on the wires where they were suppose to be but I fear we "let the smoke out" of the switch.

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Also picked up some nice fancy Exmoor trim from Matt on Thursday. I hope they are comfortable. I got everything I need to restore the interior. A full set of elephant hide grey seats and door trim as well as a hardura kit for the transmission tunnel and seatbox. I am going to make my own floor mats.

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The last thing I got done was tapping threads into the bulkhead to hold the distributor on, beforehand it had two screws that would never stay tight. This is much nicer and actually holds everything steady. They have period incorrect heads on the bolts which bothers me a bit.

Image
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#180 Post by cbalme » Sun Jan 27, 2019 9:34 pm

Not much done on the Rover this weekend. Sorted out a brake line that was leaking, hopefully re flaring it cured the leak but it may need more work.

Other than that little job I picked up some Rocky Mountain Doortops. First thing I did was take them apart so they can be painted. It was very quick and easy, just three screws and the glass popped out, then I masked the rest of the rubber since it was glued in as far as I could tell.

All in bits in the spare room

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Masked and put aside for painting.

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Hopefully next weekend I will be able to paint them along with the doors and everything else.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#181 Post by cbalme » Sat Feb 02, 2019 11:02 pm

A few odd jobs done this weekend, was planning on painting the doors and seatbox area but with the forecast calling for snow I thought it would be best to leave it for a few weeks and let the weather improve. Now that I've also improved my painting skills I'm going to start painting bits on the 110 like some new wheels and door hinges. I've found a safe place to store my painted parts it is nice having peace of mind that they won't be run into by a tractor or have hay bales drop on them.

I picked up a starter a few weeks back from Matt and it didn't work very well we tried to get it going with no luck. I took it in to Brian Roberts Electric in Victoria and they did a fantastic job I'm very pleased. Here it is after picking it up. I didn't expect them to paint it but I'm very glad they did. Before being an ex-mod starter it was rusty and green, now it looks like it belongs on a civilian rover.

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I installed it on Thursday night and it turns over nice and fast as it should. I lubed all the connections liberally with dielectric grease.

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I was waiting patiently for the starter to be rebuilt so I could install the exhaust, I didn't see any room to squeeze the starter in beside the pipe so I didn't want to get ahead of myself.

Since this Series 3 exhaust runs really close to the floor and gearbox I thought it would be a good idea to wrap it in the stuff you wrap exhausts in. Don't really know what to call it. It is very pricey online but I found it very cheap in a small marine store in Cowichan Bay (Thanks for the tip Victor). About half the price compared to anywhere else. When I got back home I opened up the package and threw it in some water to keep the dust down its not nice stuff to deal with. I was able to wrap most of the downpipe with 100 feet of the stuff. Here it is installed.

A view from the gearbox

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Underneath the frame, not sure if that needs to be wrapped but it is. I wrapped it in the engine bay as well as you can see. That should keep everything cooler in there as well. Overall I think this was a worthwhile job that doesn't take that long and should improve comfort on those hot days spent in the cab on long summer expeditions and those long days being put to good use on the farm.

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Colin

Christopher Lang
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#182 Post by Christopher Lang » Sun Feb 03, 2019 9:21 am

That lagging is going to pay off big time in the summer! I've used it to wrap boat exhaust and truck headers, the difference it makes is huge. After awhile it loses the bright white colour, and starts to look like a bandage from the civil war. It's great stuff.
Did you just secure the ends with some stainless hoseclamps? For posh stuff, I used to cut a bit of copper water pipe, slit it down the length, then smash it in the vice with the lagging in it to make a little envelope for the fraying edge. Then clamp it. Looks more steampunk.

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bsa_m21
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#183 Post by bsa_m21 » Sun Feb 03, 2019 11:11 am

Re exhaust pipe wrap. If you plan on running in wet weather or through ponds/mud holes, make sure you run the vehicle for a while afterwards to fully dry out the wrap as it holds water and will drastically increase rust over time. Most people only use it in enclosed areas or the header pipes. The further from the engine, the lower the pipe temp and longer to dry out.

Just my 2 cents. :roll:

M.
Martin
=======
'52 S1 - Runcle
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cbalme
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#184 Post by cbalme » Mon Feb 04, 2019 11:41 am

Hi Martin and Chris, I was also worried about the exhaust wrap accelerating rust, I'm thinking I'll just cut it off where it goes underneath the frame to stop it from soaking up so much water. I can always take it off it becomes a problem once I get the truck on the road. The parts I cut off I will probably just wrap farther down the pipe so I can fully insulate underneath the seatbox.
Colin

red90
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#185 Post by red90 » Mon Feb 04, 2019 3:55 pm

Under the truck, you want heat shields. Don't wrap it.

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cbalme
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#186 Post by cbalme » Sun Feb 17, 2019 7:41 pm

Got a few things checked off the list this weekend. It's very rewarding seeing the list shrinking. Should be ready for June for the island rally I hope! I was hoping to get it to founders day but that's less than two months away. One of my main hold-ups has been the weather, I didn't anticipate this snow when I was hoping to paint!

The exhaust is fully bolted in and mounted, I had to drill and tap a few holes into the frame and modify a few hangers but other than that the whole system fits really well! I decided to leave the wrap on for the moment but may take it off if it causes issues in the future.

Here you can see the full system bolted in as well as the fuel tank. I used the britpart mounting kit but was able to only use 1 of the rubber spacers since there was no room for 2 on the one big bolt. This may be caused by the slight bend in the outrigger on the frame.

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Now I just need to plumb in the fuel line, I found some fixings that work for the system so I'll just buy some rubber line and fasten it to the top of the frame.

Next on the list of things to do was "restore" the gauges. I ended up just painting the bezels and cleaning the glass for the moment. They look much better than before that's for sure.

Before

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After

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I'm not sure if the speedo works but if it doesn't I'll be replacing it with a kilometers per hour gauge.

I also got the vacuum line for the power brakes installed with the help of my father. We drilled and tapped the inlet manifold with a greased drill bit and tap to keep the shavings from going into the inlet. Here it is installed. I was going to use a proper power brake era manifold but those plans went south when it cracked after trying to separate it from the exhaust manifold.

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There are a few kinks that need working out like adjusting the brakes, plumbing the heater and replacing the new slave cylinder, but there really isn't much more mechanical work to do. Hopefully this week I'll get started on installing the main wiring loom into the truck which may take quite some time.
Colin

red90
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#187 Post by red90 » Mon Feb 18, 2019 6:51 am

cbalme wrote:
Sun Feb 17, 2019 7:41 pm
I'm not sure if the speedo works but if it doesn't I'll be replacing it with a kilometers per hour gauge.
Stick something in the drive and spin. It does not take much for the needle to move.

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