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Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

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red90
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#101 Post by red90 » Sun Apr 01, 2018 5:56 pm

Or...the shaft may be installed back to front.

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#102 Post by cbalme » Sun Apr 01, 2018 8:13 pm

The locating Pin is installed in the second hole from the front of the engine. There is no hole in the rocker shaft for the locating pin to thread into at the front but the locating pin at the back was already threaded in and lined up. This pin is in between cylinder 3 and 4. So I suppose this means the shaft is installed backwards. It should work either way, shouldn't it?
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#103 Post by red90 » Sun Apr 01, 2018 8:48 pm

cbalme wrote:It should work either way, shouldn't it?
I'm not sure. If it is completely symmetrical, it should not matter. It looks like it, but I can't guarantee it.

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#104 Post by cbalme » Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:23 pm

It seems as though there is an oil return and entry gallery from that video so it should work either way. I think I will use it the way it is and take my chances.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#105 Post by cbalme » Tue Apr 03, 2018 10:46 pm

Well I did another valve set and found one adjuster to be of concern. Is this a sign of bad things or is it normal? It is screwed in very far compared to the others. I checked the pushrod and it is straight and compared to another push rod they're the same length.

The photo is of #6 adjuster, which was adjusted when #3 valve was open.

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The push rods from the old motor are slightly longer compared to the ones from this motor.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#106 Post by red90 » Wed Apr 04, 2018 6:58 am

Are the valve heights the same? Rocker bent?

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#107 Post by The_Anachronist » Thu Apr 05, 2018 6:42 am

Yeah with an engine that old I’d bet on valve height. All mine were about .25” short - and with not much zip left in the spring.
1963 S2a 109 Station Wagon, restoration started Oct. 17, 2015.

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#108 Post by cbalme » Thu Apr 05, 2018 10:26 pm

The valve heights seem about the same compared to valves near #6

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The next thing I'd suspect would be something to do with the cam and followers. The plan is to rebuild the Solex 40 PA in the next few days and see if the engine will run. Then I'll decide from there what to do.

I have been making progress in other places like the steering and Air filter. It's a lot of painting to make things look nice and tidy. The steering box is in very good shape it just needs a new gasket to solve a leak.

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Air Filter installed

Image
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#109 Post by cbalme » Sun Apr 08, 2018 11:02 pm

Got a bit of work done today on the old Series, refurbished the Solex Carb and got it back on the Motor. Very close to firing it up and seeing if it actually runs!

My Grandfather and I tore the carb apart and cleaned it up and reassembled it with a kit. It was missing some parts so we just cleaned and reused the old ones.

Image Image

Then without anything else left to do I decided to bend up the brake lines for the rear axle. I used my hand to bend the lines so it's not very pretty. The lines are longer than they need to be which is annoying.

Image
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#110 Post by cbalme » Thu Apr 19, 2018 10:17 pm

We've finally got around to putting the gearbox back together. Victor came over last afternoon to give us a hand.

Here we are pressing first gear on to the layshaft. They had to remove it and take all the wax off. I'd left it on which turned out to be a bad idea.
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Pressing the bearing on to the primary pinion. We made sure to the washer on the other side as per the manual. The previous time it was apart someone put the washer on the wrong side.
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We then put the primary pinion into the bellhousing. We had a hell of a time trying to pound the bearing in so we used a heat gun to warm the bellhousing for 5 minutes then it just fell in. It was quite comical how easy it was compared to before. We used the same trick for the layshaft bearing and tightened up all the studs and bolts that held them in.
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Getting the gears ready to go in. at the time we had the layshaft assembled in the wrong order but we figured that out later when the Syncro wouldn't fit beside the gears
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Didn't take many photos of the assembly since it required many hands but it went together without too much trouble. The biggest issue was lining up the layshaft with the main shaft but after a bit of fiddling, we got it to go. The gear that matches the primary pinion was put on at the same time as the bellhousing and primary pinion since it was the only way we could get things to align.
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We called it a night after we got the gear selectors aligned. We ran it through all the gears and none of them grind so it is ready for the transfer case and final reassembly.
Image
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#111 Post by cbalme » Fri Apr 20, 2018 11:14 pm

Did a bit of fiddling with the gearbox tonight. Hopefully I'll have it done by next week.

I only got the reverse springs installed tonight. It was missing one so I just changed them both while it was apart.

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Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#112 Post by cbalme » Sun Apr 22, 2018 1:05 pm

I got bored Saturday night and decided to put the box back together. I finished it up this morning and just need to put the slave cylinder back on then it's done.

I adjusted the clutch release pin with the 7/16 drill bit and bolted it back on. I also put the top back on with some grease to hopefully seal it.
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Then shimmed up the transfer case, it didn't need any extras it was already perfect.
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After that I mated it all together. I put the intermediate shaft in before the gearbox output gear which was a mistake so I had to take all of that apart again.
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Put the springs in for the gears and setting the clearances with the adjusters
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Just a few more things then it's ready to go back in!
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Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#113 Post by cbalme » Sun Apr 22, 2018 11:35 pm

I was expecting to be able to put the box back in the truck this afternoon but found a crack in the pipe that connects the slave cylinder to the throwout assembly.

You can just make out a hairline crack beside the hole for the pin. Above is the galvanized pipe we used to make a new one.
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Our reamer was broken so I had to file it out by hand which took quite a while. Eventually, I got it to fit as it should with a new grommet in place.
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Put a shiny new slave cylinder into the housing I found in my parts pile that was nice and clean. I will adjust it later one I get the hydraulics installed.
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I also cleaned and degreased all the mounts so I can paint them.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#114 Post by ANDYD » Mon Apr 23, 2018 10:37 am

Great progress Colin, I'm feeling a bit guilty having left my project for a few weeks and watching all your good progress.

So regarding the gearbox, now that you put it all back together, did you find a lot of wear and tear on gears or bearings or were the replacement parts more just to change them while you had it on the bench? I'm at that point where I am going to change all my seals, but not really seeing any wear or excess movement in the bearings or gears.
Reluctant (or lazy) to just change bearings for the sake of it .... hummmm...
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#115 Post by cbalme » Mon Apr 23, 2018 8:11 pm

Hi Andy, good to hear it is still being worked on. With this gearbox my original plan was to just change all the gaskets and seals but I crushed that rear layshaft bearing by accident so I had to take it all apart. After disassembly 1st gear was found to be in bad shape so we changed it out. Other than that all the gears were in good shape. It's very easy to change the bearings if you have a heat gun and a freezer or access to a shop press. We changed 3 out of the 5 bearings inside the gearbox because they were easy to deal with even though they were in good shape. We left the rear mainshaft bearing because it was in perfect condition and reused the old bearing that goes between the mainshaft and the primary pinion because the new britpart bearing had more play.

I didn't change any transfer case bearings I just took it apart and cleaned it. When you go to put everything back together just shim it all and make sure it's set to the correct preloads and that sort of thing.

Overall I would just give the whole box a good look over and change anything that looks overly worn. I'd also talk to Victor or Matt who are quite good at this sort of thing.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#116 Post by cbalme » Wed Apr 25, 2018 12:13 am

This afternoon we got the gearbox installed. It was very fiddly and took a while to line everything up but then it all just slid into place.
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I was having troulble aligning the mounts and it turns out I put the removable cross memeber on the wrong way round. Once I got that sorted out it went into place quite well
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Then I put the handbrake on with a bit of siliconce on the mudshield. The shoes were easy to put on on the bench with older springs
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Then I torqued up the flange, put the drum on and adjusted the handbrake to how it should be.
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Also made a new cork gasket for the filler hole on top. It took two tries and turned out okay.
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Next job is putting the propshafts on and then onto welding the bulkead!
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#117 Post by cbalme » Sun May 06, 2018 10:19 pm

It's been a busy week without much progress on the Land Rover.

Propshafts got installed last weekend with new bolts.
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Bought a battery that was an inch too long so I had to trade it for another. Getting closer and closer to firing it up!
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Found out that Land Rover makes two carburettor elbows, one is for the Solex on the left and the other is for a Weber or Zenith on the right. You can slightly see that the one on the right is slightly bigger. So I had to paint the other and not use the nicely painted one I already had. Now it's all connected and the old vacuum advance I found in the parts bin is hooked up.
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I also got a vintage Jack-All from my grandpa which will suit the 109 quite nicely.
Image
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#118 Post by cbalme » Sun May 27, 2018 8:51 pm

After taking a break from working on the Land Rover to focus on school I found some time to get some work in.

I exchanged my other battery for one with the reversed terminals so it'll work with my Land Rover.

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Gave the inside of the frame a thick coat of Wax, hopefully it'll be good but I may need to recoat it because this stuff doesn't harden.
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Two Cans barely did the whole frame and I had to buy the applicator separately. It came with 3 lengths but I only used the long one.

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I also replaced the original breather hoses for the Axles since they were only stubs. Hopefully these will be long enough and not get snagged on anything. I don't think I will need breather hoses that go all the way up to the top of the bulkhead since I don't plan on doing any deep wading.

Back Axle

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Front Axle. There was no where to route the hose on the other side of the frame so I had to route the hose over the diff.

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Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#119 Post by cbalme » Mon Jun 04, 2018 12:20 pm

A few little things got done yesterday. I painted the radiator and shroud and screwed them back together. I had the radiator tested by Gerwin Solutions. It was tested up to 10 pounds and held up fine So I may get a few more years out of it. It only needed a new cap and tap. I have yet to find a cap because it is the rare kind off of a Series 1.

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I drained the old gear oil out of the steering box and filled it up to the brim with thin one shot grease. This should stop any leaks and keep it lubricated up for many years to come.

I then turned my attention to the steering wheel. I spend a good hour wire wheeling the main aluminium part and then degreased the handle and everything. I then taped off the chrome parts. After it was all masked off I took some JB weld and forced it into the cracks in the plastic so it would be strong again. I then gave one more good degreasing with scotchbrite and then primed everything with self-etching primer. Tonight I'll sand it back a bit and then give it a few coats of gloss black.

Image
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#120 Post by cbalme » Mon Jun 04, 2018 9:44 pm

Put two coats of gloss black on the wheel this afternoon. It's looking very good and I'm quite pleased with how it turned out.

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I also painted the part that does the electrics for the horn and the self-cancelling turn signals.

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Now I need to find something to coat the horn and surround. It is supposed to look wrinkly but has a pattern. I am going to look into finding a wrinkle paint.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#121 Post by bsa_m21 » Mon Jun 04, 2018 10:24 pm

You can get Eastwood black wrinkle paint from KMS. They usually have it in stock.

Looking good!!
M.
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#122 Post by cbalme » Tue Jun 12, 2018 10:51 pm

Thanks for the tip Martin, the only KMS we have on the island is in Victoria so I'll look around locally before heading down. How do I separate the button from the surround that needs to be painted?

Tonight we turned the engine over on the starter, just to make sure the oil pump was working and to make sure the rocker shaft was getting oil. It was a rough start because I forgot to add the oil pressure gauge so I emptied a litre of oil onto the floor before I noticed my mistake. After plugging in the gauge we turned it over again and got 30lbs of pressure and the rocker shaft began emptying oil out of the holes so it turns out the way the shaft is facing doesn't matter.

Click on the photo and it will take you to a video.

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The original gauge showed 30lbs. I ordered a brand new one off of Craddock which will be cheaper than getting it rebuilt.

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Just need to sort out the electrical and fuel then it'll be ready to run by itself!
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#123 Post by cbalme » Sun Jun 17, 2018 3:16 pm

Haven't got around to firing up the motor just yet, but it is almost all wired in and ready to go. In the meantime I got the centre horn button painted.

First of all, I disassembled it everything. You just need a small chisel to pry the tab over and then some water pump pliers to twist the centrepiece out. Here it is all in bits after bending the tab over.

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I then took the horn button and wet sanded the deep scratches and imperfections out with 400 grit sandpaper, it gave a super smooth finish and turned out quite nice with a coat of gloss black but I don't have any photos.

Matt told me to make sure the metal wasn't cold so I put it in the sun for an hour before I painted the horn surround.

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I took a can of VHT Wrinkle Plus to it. It sort of looked wavy and disappointing but the can said to expect that so I left for a bit.

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Then came back to this.

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The metal was almost too hot to hold at the time I painted it which I think made the wrinkles tighter than they should be but I am still very impressed!

My photos don't really show all the details but it looks the part.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#124 Post by cbalme » Tue Jun 19, 2018 10:36 pm

Put the horn button and centrepiece back together and it looks great!

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I got the rest of the steering wheel back together, I just need to figure out a way to take all the tape off as it's stuck on there really well.

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My parts for the handbrake from Roversnorth finally arrived, even in a green bag!

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I finished installing the handbrake this afternoon and it goes on tight after about 4 clicks. I also installed a spring but I am not sure if that is where it is actually supposed to go.

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A close up of the return spring. I'm not sure it's in the right place.

Image
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#125 Post by oldgravy » Thu Jun 21, 2018 1:56 pm

On my S2 the return spring affixed to the backing plate. I have a poor quality photo somewhere if you need it...

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#126 Post by cbalme » Tue Jun 26, 2018 11:13 pm

Hi oldgravy, I'd love a photo I'm not sure I set mine up right but it seems to be working.

I got a bunch of stuff from craddocks this afternoon.

A new gauge to replace the one that was missing the temperature sender.

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A new radiator cap which is very tight to put on. Time will tell whether it works or not.

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Brake line brackets for a Series III axle were installed as well. I may need to get a different type of flex hose with a long part on both ends.

Image
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#127 Post by oldgravy » Fri Jun 29, 2018 3:45 pm

Here's what I got.
Attachments
2016-03-15 14.07.56_preview.jpeg
2016-03-15 14.07.56_preview.jpeg (209.01 KiB) Viewed 1324 times
2016-03-15 14.08.11_preview.jpeg
2016-03-15 14.08.11_preview.jpeg (126.76 KiB) Viewed 1324 times

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#128 Post by cbalme » Sun Jul 01, 2018 9:06 am

I must have a different handbrake backing plate than you, mine doesn’t have a hook like yours.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#129 Post by cbalme » Tue Jul 03, 2018 12:08 am

Just been chipping away at little jobs like cleaning parts and getting them ready for paint.

Finally got a Power Brake Tower thanks to Matt, now I can do a proper job on the brake system. When I got the brake tower it was seized solid, so straight into a bucket of diesel it went. Then I pulled it out and took the impact driver to all the nuts and pulled the servo off which went straight into the bin.

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Took a bit of persuading with a brass mallet to get the pedal to move back and forth smoothly but now I can move it around by hand so I will wire wheel and paint it with POR 15 after I find a suitable clutch pedal in my parts loft.

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Very very close to firing up the old 2.25. It is all wired in properly as far as I know. The white wire goes to the + Terminal on the battery and the red one goes to the distributor.
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I had to take the fuel pump off the old seized motor after messing around with the one I was trying to use for over an hour, Something is wrong with the diaphragm it won't build pressure. The original AC pump was pulled off the seized block and pumped fuel like crazy. I bet it's been rebuilt at some point because it has a few stripped screws.

Image


Once I run a fuel line to the carb it should be ready to fire up!
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#130 Post by ANDYD » Tue Jul 03, 2018 11:28 pm

Exciting times.... good luck with the start up, hope it roars like a lion (or purrs like a cat!)

The steering wheel came out well, good work.
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#131 Post by cbalme » Wed Jul 04, 2018 12:01 am

Thanks Andy, very pleased with how the wheel turned out.

I started this evening with plumbing in the fuel lines from the pump.

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Then pushed it into the yard to fire it up.

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After doing a bit of fiddling we ran some jumper cables to the starter and tried turning it over. It turned over quite a few times and barely coughed into life and then stalled on us. Disappointing results but that means it can run, and I will make it run!

It gets spark, it's getting fuel, and it has air, I think it is lacking the pull from the starter motor or crank handle. The starter weakly turns it over and I wasn't able to crank it over by hand fast enough. Tomorrow I will get it to go somehow. If anyone has any advice it would be greatly appreciated because I don't really know what I'm doing.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#132 Post by John » Wed Jul 04, 2018 8:06 am

Hand cranking does not require speed and you'll never get any unless you have little to no compression. You'll only get one hit past compression at a time however I don't think I would expect to get a rebuild to start first time on the crank unless you know that everything else is spot on. Put a known good battery in it and take it from there.

Good luck.

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#133 Post by cbalme » Wed Jul 04, 2018 10:57 pm

I thought it was all in the speed of the pull? I understand I can only hit it once and then I have to hook the crank handle back into the pulley. The battery is brand new and reading 13.3 volts when I began turning it over and has been recharged.


Which way is full choke on the Solex? I'm pretty sure it's pulled all the way back towards the bulkhead.

It did cough and sputter for a second so the timing is sort of set.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#134 Post by cbalme » Thu Jul 05, 2018 11:59 pm

After messing around with it this afternoon I decided to set the plug gap properly, I think that did the trick it fired up and roared like a lion before stalling because it ran out of gas.

"There you go, it runs" sums up this video https://youtu.be/z8qcYrwXSro pretty well.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#135 Post by franko » Fri Jul 06, 2018 6:56 am

Amazing, that’s got to be the best feeling ever 🙌🏼.

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#136 Post by cbalme » Wed Aug 01, 2018 11:16 pm

Chipping away at little jobs now.

Painted the brake and clutch booster after disassembling them both. Came out very bad with POR-15 Semi-Gloss black. It had no gloss to it and was completely flat. Going to try a tin of full gloss and see how that looks.

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Started getting the body panels ready for paint. Found some doors, wings, and door tops that will be painted bronze green with the new paint guns I bought for really cheap at princess auto

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Then turned to get the tub ready for paint. This is going to be the most painful to repair since it has a few layers of poorly applied paint.

Looks pretty good on the back of the truck!

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All the galvanising removed. Planning on doing the same for the hood.

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Unfortunately I found bondo on the rear left panel. That's the only place that's got it as far as I can tell and it's on there thick. Here's an 11/32 socket for scale.

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Not really sure what to do there. It is too much of a hassle to replace that panel so I may just slap some more bondo back on or leave it alone. Most of the damage is hidden by the license plate anyways...

My shiny rebuilt gearbox is already leaking, I think this hot weather has something to do with it :x

The engine also leaks out of the front crank main seal. So off comes the timing cover in the next few days :roll:
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#137 Post by bsa_m21 » Thu Aug 02, 2018 9:19 am

Re Leaks - So she's already marking her spot! Must be British!

You might want to take the seal to your local bearing house and see if you can get a double lip equivalent. Failing that, check the crank for wear. If so, see about getting a "speedy sleeve" to repair.

Re Bondo - I don't know about you, but I've seen way too many Series with cracked and falling off bondo. The thin aluminum flexes in vehicle use and causes the rigid bondo to crack and fall off. So if you plan to use the vehicle offroad at all, I'd think about taking off the bondo that is there and using a propane torch, "shrinking" hammer (has a spiral-milled face shrinks metal on impact) and dolly to get the dents out. I've used them in the past and it really works. Google it -there's lots of info and video's online.

Just my 2 cents. And keep up the great work!!

M.
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#138 Post by DrRangelove » Thu Aug 02, 2018 12:30 pm

Hey Colin, looking good!

I had to speedy sleeve my crank seal as well - so far so good RE: leaks from that spot. My gearbox/transfer case is also leaking after replacing all the gaskets/seals and being generous with the RTV. Apparently this is just par for the course according to everyone I've spoken too - frustrating, but you just learn to live with it I guess (and check fluid levels regularly!)…

That bondo is giving me flashbacks to my body panels - I think I had up to a 1/4" of the stuff on the worst areas! I ended up chipping/sanding mine away but it was a horrible job and I'm left with a dented, pucked and shot gun blast scarred body that adds a certain charm lol

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cbalme
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#139 Post by cbalme » Thu Aug 02, 2018 8:16 pm

Thanks Martin and Dave. I'll look into a double lipped seal I didn't think of that. I ordered two crank seals because I've heard you can fit two in the front hole.

I replaced the crank pulley with a brand new one already because the old one was very worn.

With the gearbox I'm hoping that if I put the proper weight oil in it will leak less, right now it has a very thin GL4 Hydraulic fluid/Tractor Transmission fluid just to flush all the junk out and then I'll put the right stuff back in.

I agree with not putting bondo back on the panels, the 110 has it in the rear tub after being rear-ended and you can see massive cracks it looks awful. The doors I am using have a thin skim of bondo already so I won't bother taking it off just leave them alone. The tub I am using must've run into something I found a 3/4 inch hole punched through where I was chipping off bondo.

The license plate covers most of the damage so I'll do my best to hammer out the majority of the dent and then leave it be.
Colin

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cbalme
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#140 Post by cbalme » Tue Aug 14, 2018 12:11 am

Got some more painting done in this nice weather, also getting closer to painting the bronze green.

New paint on the brake and clutch pedal towers, starter button and headlight switch.

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Replaced all the tie rod ends with the safe type for my tie rods and installed the correct Series III brake lines from the chassis to axle.

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Then turned back to the dreaded bondo. Took it off with a rapid strip sanding disk on an angle grinder which made short work of it.

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The metal has stretched quite a lot, haven't tried the shrinking hammer yet but a license plate hides the worst of it so it may not be needed.

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My buddy who is building his own series of Series came over to help me pound out the dents in the tub. Most of them came out and I'm quite pleased with that next is the wings.

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This evening I tore the timing cover off. Not as bad of a job as I thought. Used two new seals and self-tapping screws this time instead of the rivets. I figured out the hard way that a rivet is no good for holding a mud shield on unless it is sealed. There were clear holes into the engine so that may explain the very large puddle of oil upon startup.

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Mostly back together now, the next task is trying to mount a Lucas Alternator to the block without the proper mount. The old 19j came in handy for something other than a boat anchor when I hauled it out of the lake to get the power steering and alternator bracket off of it. I got it mounted up to the Petrol block but the alternator pulley doesn't line up with the belts on the other pulleys. I may have to bite the bullet and source the proper bracket for just a Lucas alternator.

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It is so close to lining up. Just slightly too far forward. Any advice?

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Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#141 Post by BuckBlue90 » Tue Aug 14, 2018 3:19 pm

Love it! Hauled the 19J out of the lake. Most of us have a spares stash, but somewhere more conventional.
Looking good Colin. Not long now.

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cbalme
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#142 Post by cbalme » Fri Aug 24, 2018 11:51 pm

Picked up a few parts from Greg's farm this week, like this battery hold down.

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Also redid the nameplates. I used a rapid strip sanding disk because I was too lazy to sand all the letters.

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I also picked up the proper alternator mount for a 2.25, it turns out the pulley is the wrong one for this engine so it will need modification.

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Straightened the passenger side wing pretty well but the left one needs exchanging with a different wing in better shape I think.

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Proof that I'm getting closer to painting is this newly built paint booth. Hopefully get all the green bits painted next week.

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Then turned my attention to the bulkhead, I had been debating for a long time whether to replace the footwells, someone went crazy with a drill before I got it. Rather than just filling the holes I had the footwells replaced. Much less time and way stronger than the originals who were already pretty thin.

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Cut them out and welded in new footwells.

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Some of the holes won't line up but thats nothing a bigger drill bit and some nice wide washers can't hide!

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This evening I tidied up the fuel lines, instead of running above the distributor and over the rocker panel it now follows along the right of the engine then goes above the thermostat as it should.

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Colin

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ANDYD
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#143 Post by ANDYD » Sat Aug 25, 2018 10:05 am

Hey Colin, Awesome job with keeping your Landy project moving along steadily. I'm guilty of letting my project grind to a halt in the summer, although I did pick up a big suitcase of engine parts while visiting England. I'm very jealous of all the space you have there in that barn, even have room for your own spray booth!
Keep up the good work ..........
Andy
1991 Defender 110 / 2003 Discovery / 1956 Series 1- 86

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cbalme
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#144 Post by cbalme » Sun Aug 26, 2018 11:59 pm

Thanks Andy, it is very useful having a large shop but one downside is that it's hard to keep such a large space clean!

Got the Lucas 16ACR installed with the proper pulley. Now it's ready for the engine wiring loom.

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Also cut the holes for the Kodiak Mark II Heater, hopefully it's in the right spot but as far as I can tell it's not terribly critical.

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If anyone has parts for a Kodiak Mark II I am looking for a right-hand defroster, intake cowling and shutoff valve.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#145 Post by cbalme » Tue Sep 04, 2018 7:35 pm

Had a very busy week last week. From Monday to Saturday I was spending most of my time prepping everything for paint. I did not realize it was that much work.

After the first layer of stripper and a fair bit of work. The biggest job was the tub because it had so many old crusty layers of paint. The rest of the truck has good paint so I will just scuff and sand it. I did end up finding a few more bondo areas which weren't as bad compared to the other spot.

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It took 4-5 stripping discs and lots of aircraft aluminum stripper to get the job done and a few days of hard work shared between my dad and I but for the most part everything's done. Here it is all done up hanging off the tractor The Gods must be Crazy style (although much less extreme) to chop off the ends of the u bolts.

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Using the old wings because I will most likely beat them up a fair bit so now I won't wince when they get dings in them.

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A mostly sandblasted bulkhead, when the sandblaster was working it was quite enjoyable but the reliability of that thing is worse than Land Rovers...

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Hopefully I'll be able to come home on most weekends to spray everything before it gets too cold, otherwise I'll invest in a heater.

I'm debating on whether I repaint the deep sills as well, I know they get crunched very easily in the bush. Another option is to get some rock sliders welded up with some thick square tube which is what I'm leaning towards.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#146 Post by cbalme » Mon Sep 17, 2018 12:17 am

Got a little bit of work done this weekend. The Carburettor was leaking when it ran so I bent the float a bit so that should help.

Also replaced the pinion flanges, it's one of those jobs that should've been done when the diffs were apart but they were overlooked. The old ones weren't too bad so they'll become spares.

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Went quite smoothly but found this on the rear diff. Someone (myself) must've put it in wrong. I'm very confused because it looks as though the seal is the right way round but the spring is on the outside. Is this a double lipped seal?

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Colin

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ANDYD
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#147 Post by ANDYD » Wed Sep 19, 2018 12:11 am

Hi Colin,
The manual states that the lip (and spring) should be facing in towards the axel. Its hard to see from your photo but I wonder if the lip of the seal has folded inside out when you pulled the flange off?
There should also be locking tabs under the nuts (couldn't see them in your photo).
Cheers,
Andy
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1991 Defender 110 / 2003 Discovery / 1956 Series 1- 86

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cbalme
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#148 Post by cbalme » Fri Sep 21, 2018 5:22 pm

Hi Andy, thanks for the help. I did a quick google search of the part number (FRC 4586) and it appears to be in the correct position. There is a spring on the inside and outside.

https://www.lrdirect.com/FRC4586-suppli ... rteco.html

The reason that there is no locking tab is that they were broken, I replaced them with spring washers that are covered in black paint. (Even though that part is supposed to be bare)
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#149 Post by cbalme » Mon Oct 08, 2018 5:38 pm

Got a few little tasks done this weekend and a big milestone reached this afternoon.

Routed the vacuum advance the right way round, before this it would've hit the throttle linkages.

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Then started on hanging body panels for paint. Bit tricky finding a way for everything to fit in but we got it done.

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Today we sanded all the panels with 320 grit paper and then gave them a final wipe, then painted them in a very vibrant green.

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Luckily that was just the primer and not the final coat, I don't think I could handle a truck that colour. Looks almost like pastel green.

Here it is with the first coat on, after supper we'll get a second coat on.

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Overall very impressed with how it turned out, had to add a few runs and imperfections in definitely on purpose to make it authentic. I'll let it dry over the week and then it goes on Saturday, exciting times!!!
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#150 Post by oldgravy » Mon Oct 08, 2018 7:06 pm

Authenticity is important! Congrats.

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