The Rover-Landers of BC

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 11:06 pm 
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Judge Dredd
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Location: Cobble Hill
Finally got the Chassis repairs complete. I just need to weld in the front tub mounts because I'm not too sure where they go.

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Painted the Rear Axle in the cold weather. I've got a feeling I'll be painting it again in the new year when it's warmer.
I also forgot to grease the Diff Pinion seal so I took that part today and gave them a generous greasing. I was told that if they went in dry they'd start leaking after a couple hundred miles.

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Removed all the old bushings. This turned out to be a terrible job which took much longer than anticipated. At first we used a Sawzall and a chisel, but the bushings were rusted in there very bad. Eventually, we ended up getting the torch out to heat them up, this worked quite nicely.

Pipe ready for the new Polybushes

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New vs. Old

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I don't think I will ever bother with standard bushings in the chassis again as they are much more of a hassle to get in and out than PolyBushes, even if they last half as long. They only take a few minutes to install and take out.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 9:04 am 
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Location: Sunny Steveston BC
Good progress Colin. I feel your pain with the chassis bushing removal. When I did mine I rigged up a length of threaded ready-rod and a couple of nuts and correct sized spacers was able to pull them out using an extended breaker bar... had to cut through the metal part first with a hacksaw before they would even think about moving. It wasn't any fun and took the best part of a weekend... bloody knuckles and lots of swear words :oops:

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 10:30 pm 
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Judge Dredd
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I was looking at your post to see how you did it. That was my backup plan if the torch didn't work. I ended up burning the centre bushing out and walking away so I didn't have to breathe too much in. It took the two of us a few hours. Swearing usually helps get them out I find.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 10:53 pm 
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Gunga Gin

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For ease of future replacement i went with polybushes too. I had an easier time getting the old ones out though - took about 30 mins each by torching out the rubber and centre sleeve, followed by hacksawing through the outer sleeve and drifting it out...


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 10:54 pm 
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Gunga Gin

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For ease of future replacement i went with polybushes too. I had an easier time getting the old ones out though - took about 30 mins each by torching out the rubber and centre sleeve, followed by hacksawing through the outer sleeve and drifting it out...


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 7:21 pm 
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Judge Dredd
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That was my original method as well but the outer sleeves were rusted badly into the outer. It was also the method I used on the 110 and it worked very well.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 11:07 pm 
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Finally got around to painting the frame. It has only taken me a year and a half. Like Andy I used the POR-15 Three-Step Process.

Degreasing the Chassis

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Then waited a week for some time. I tried to heat the frame up by storing it in the Milk Tank Room.

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After that, I used the overpriced Phosphoric Acid to prep the frame then liberally rinsed it off with hot water.

Here it is, before being painted. The POR-15 metal prep didn't do much but I suppose it did something.

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After the first Coat

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Unfortunately. I bought the smallest tin they had because they told me it was enough. So I had to drive back to the store to buy a quart and that still wasn't enough. This means it has about one and a half coats on. Once I get the axles and some other bits on I'll give it a liberal waxing to prevent any more rust.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 10:52 pm 
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Location: Sunny Steveston BC
Nice.... that's the worse bit done 8) , now you have a good foundation under your new beast!

Have you thought about internal chassis rust protection? I have just picked up a few tins of Eastwood Internal Chassis Coating, which comes in a aerosol can with a tube that you slide into holes in the chassis and the 360 deg nozzle sprays the inside as you pull it along the box sections as you spray.
It has some good reviews (made in the USA) and currently on sale at KMS tools $26, so I thought why not give it a try.
I will let you know how it goes...............
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-intern ... rosol.html

Cheers,
Andy

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 7:35 pm 
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Gunga Gin

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Looking good Colin - I wish I'd gone with POR for peace of mind also but I was lucky in that my frame had most of its original factory paint (probably why the bushes came out so easily lol). The waxoyl is a good call, as the POR-15 is sensitive to sunlight and can degrade over time if exposed...


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 10:57 pm 
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Judge Dredd
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Thanks for the input Andy and Dave.

I have thought about coating the chassis from the inside and planned on using something like that. Let me know how that turns out and I might give it a try as well.

My frame had a lot of the factory paint still on and the POR-15 metal prep etched it so it could be painted over.

I'm quite happy with the way the POR-15 turned out. I'm worried because in a few spots there are some air bubbles so I plan on redoing those when it's warmer. It may have been too moist or perhaps I put too much paint in those areas.

It was a good idea to remove those bushings before painting because that stuff would've welded them in!

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Last edited by cbalme on Wed Nov 22, 2017 11:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 11:58 pm 
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Judge Dredd
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Have started to add bits, I'm getting excited!

Last night the first bits I added were the bump stops and Polybushes.
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I also filled the axles with oil and am happy to say they don't leak :)
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Tonight I got the Axles and the Steering relay installed.
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I am scared of large springs popping out at me so I decided not to take it apart. I put some oil in it the night before to loosen things up then tonight I swapped out the filler plug for a grease nipple and pumped it full of one shot grease. After smacking it around with a hammer for a while it was quite loose and could be moved freely by hand. When putting it back in I gave it a generous coating of anti-seize. I'm hoping the nipple will be easily accessible by only removing the grille.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:32 am 
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FYI, if you put the POR-15 on top of other paint without using their primer, it will peel off in a year or two. It is very hard to get the stuff to stick to anything long term.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2017 8:41 pm 
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Judge Dredd
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Well I guess I will have to repaint it in a year or two then. The store didn't sell any sort of primer and on the tin it said to sand old paint to scuff it. That Metal Prep chemical made the old paint very rough so maybe that was to help bond it. Next time I go to paint something with the POR-15 I'll see if they have a primer.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 25, 2017 8:55 pm 
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Got Quite a bit done last night. Put all the shocks on and put the Check Straps on.

One front shock cooperated with me but on the other side the bushings wouldn't move over far enough to fit the split pin. I got some woodworking clamps and pulled the washer towards the diff. That gave me enough space to fit it in nicely.

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I had quite a similar problem on the rear because we welded a washer on because the hole was worn out. This didn't give me enough thread to fit the nut on. We had to "modify" the bushing so it was smaller and would fit nicely.

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I used my Mum's leather hole punch to make bolt holes for the check straps. I may need to take them off and put larger washers on at some point so they last longer.

I'm a little concerned because I ended up with a few spare bits and bolts I can donate to the farm. I don't know what the Nyloc Nuts are for but the extra bushings, washers and split pins are leftovers from a SWB shock kit.

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So far it's coming together nicely. Not working on old rusty bits is nice for a change.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 25, 2017 10:26 pm 
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All pictures are now visible if anyone's interested.

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