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Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

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obalme
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Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#1 Post by obalme » Sat Mar 11, 2017 9:15 pm

About a year ago my son and I bought an old Series II with the intention to restore it. We had gone up into the bush offroading and on our way back, my son spotted it under a tarp.

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We brought it home and began to tear it down

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Giving the frame a good wash inside and out

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The engine and brakes were seized and it didn't shift into third or fourth, we tried quite hard to get it started. Dragging it around the farmyard.

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Surprisingly, the pillars of the bulkhead were in immaculate condition, but the footwells were rotten. There was also the fact that somebody had chopped a massive hole in the firewall for a Chevy Master cylinder.

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What was once thought to be a solid frame turned out to be quite rotten. The rear cross member had already been replaced with the C-Channel Special. After giving it a good sandblasting we discovered that a lot of the frame rail was rotten.

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Dreaming of a running Rover we had a look around for other vehicles. Like this 88.

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We decided we'd rather have a 109 for working on the farm, so we made the trip up to Lillooet for Michael Kennedy's 109 project he'd had for 20 years, but had just bought a 110. This new truck came with brand new parabolics, a tub without any dents, a repaired bulkhead, painted doors, and a bunch of other bits and bolts.

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That's pretty much where the project is now. We have done some repairs to the frame and they are 60% complete before we have a solid foundation.

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We've begun rebuilding the front axle as well, the diff seemed almost brand new. All that was needed was to renew the front pinion seal.
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All the other bits of the axle are repainted, so we will get that put back together in the next few days, then start on the rear one!
Last edited by obalme on Thu Nov 02, 2017 10:52 am, edited 4 times in total.
-1960 Series II Pickup
-1987 Defender 110
-2007 LR3

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obalme
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#2 Post by obalme » Sun Mar 12, 2017 1:38 pm

Are the photos visible?
-1960 Series II Pickup
-1987 Defender 110
-2007 LR3

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#3 Post by red90 » Sun Mar 12, 2017 3:06 pm

obalme wrote:Are the photos visible?
I can't see them.

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#4 Post by Kelster1055 » Sun Mar 12, 2017 5:12 pm

Same problem here.

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#5 Post by obalme » Sun Mar 12, 2017 7:06 pm

How about now?
-1960 Series II Pickup
-1987 Defender 110
-2007 LR3

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#6 Post by Kelster1055 » Sun Mar 12, 2017 7:30 pm

Much better!

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#7 Post by joshallen676 » Mon Mar 13, 2017 8:04 pm

Wasn't my 88 in the pictures, I wish I had time to tear her down and put her back together properly lol but she's still in one piece needing footwells and suspension mounts...AND I've found ou the rear cross member was previously welded into the wrong place and that's why my tub wont fit lol. So I'm rebuilding the engine in my other rover haha.

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#8 Post by mepham55 » Wed Mar 15, 2017 9:58 am

Great looking project! Is the new frame a station wagon frame? I think I can see the 2 raised pillars which hold the rear tub of a station wagon. If so, you'll need to remove them to fit your 109 full tub.

Matt

1955 S1 107”
1959 S2 SWB
1966 S2a SWB
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#9 Post by obalme » Wed Mar 15, 2017 12:20 pm

Thanks Matt, will double check to make sure the frames match.

Josh, I will amend my post
-1960 Series II Pickup
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#10 Post by mepham55 » Wed Mar 15, 2017 12:41 pm

Had another look at the pictures, I think I'm mistaken the frames look the same.

Matt

1955 S1 107”
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1966 S2a SWB
2006 LR3

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#11 Post by obalme » Wed Mar 15, 2017 1:15 pm

Instead of working on the axles, we did some more welding on the frame. The front suspension bushings had a hairline crack around them so we fish plated around them to fix that.

After spending quite a long time trying to pull the relay out the top, we realized it would've never come out.

Somebody had decided to weld it in...

So we had to remove the front cross-member


We welded on a bar to keep the frame rails in place.

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Then took the torch to it.

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New One ready to be welded in place

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If you look closely, you can see a small weld.

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It's funny, because the relay on the other frame came out really easy.
Last edited by obalme on Sat Nov 25, 2017 10:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-1960 Series II Pickup
-1987 Defender 110
-2007 LR3

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#12 Post by joshallen676 » Wed Mar 15, 2017 10:43 pm

obalme wrote:Thanks Matt, will double check to make sure the frames match.

Josh, I will amend my post
No worries mate, just don't want to take credit for something I didn't do haha


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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#13 Post by obalme » Thu Mar 23, 2017 7:45 pm

Got some work done on the axle's swivels yesterday.
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Today, we pretty much finished all of the repairs on the frame.

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Test fitting a bulkhead
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We also patched a few holes in the rear crossmember. But I forgot to take photos.

I now have to deal with the final frame repair. The shock absorber mounts are extremely worn out. Someone must've forgot to change the bushings on their shocks.

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It is like this on both sides, is there a replacement part available or do I need to fabricate my own? We have the old ones.
Last edited by obalme on Sat Nov 25, 2017 10:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-1960 Series II Pickup
-1987 Defender 110
-2007 LR3

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#14 Post by BuckBlue90 » Fri Mar 24, 2017 8:43 pm

You could just cut off the stubs and drill and tap for a grade 8 bolt.
Eric.

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#15 Post by obalme » Sat Mar 25, 2017 9:26 am

That sounds like a good idea, I'd rather not fiddle around trying to make my own.

Isn't that the way they're mounted to the Defenders?
-1960 Series II Pickup
-1987 Defender 110
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#16 Post by obalme » Tue Mar 28, 2017 10:29 pm

Got some more work done over the weekend.
Put in new outer wheel bearings and stub axle races
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Rebuilt the front halfshafts with new UJs, distance pieces, bearing races and seal races. It all went back together quite easily with a 30 ton shop press.
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Since now I'm waiting for more brake parts progress on the front axle has been halted, so I began taking apart the rear one.

Found an old piece of oily paper inside the hubcap, maybe to prevent oil getting out?
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Also some writing on a halfshaft I can't decipher
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All the rear halfshafts
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I pulled the left side halfshaft out and it looked as if someone had chopped a little bit off the end, so I pulled the one from the donor axle, and it looked brand new! The lower one looks like someone took the grinder to it to make it fit.
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Last edited by obalme on Sat Nov 25, 2017 10:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#17 Post by ANDYD » Fri Mar 31, 2017 9:02 pm

Looking like good forward progress .....

I once had a bunch of old Series Parts from Australia marked in boxes from Dufor Automotive. They were a company that made Series parts way back in the good old days.
I wonder if the first word written on you diff shaft is "DUFOR"?

-Keep up the good work...
Andy
1991 Defender 110 / 2003 Discovery / 1956 Series 1- 86

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#18 Post by obalme » Sun Apr 02, 2017 10:00 pm

That seems to be correct. It looks like "DUFOR" then a part number.
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#19 Post by cbalme » Fri Jun 16, 2017 2:51 pm

Not much forward progress over the past few months, got the rear axle taken apart, just need the time to put it back together. Picked up a Chassis from Bern, it's in really good condition, but was modified to fit a Station Wagon, so I'll have to chop off some of the brackets and weld new ones in, The rear crossmember is a little bent and battered in some places so I'll replace that with the one I have now. After a quick inspection this frame seems really solid! It's been undercoated, if I break some of it off it reveals some nice gloss black paint, which may be original. The outriggers for the gas tanks are slightly bent so they need beaten back into their correct positions.

I'm wondering whether it would be worth Galvanizing?
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#20 Post by cbalme » Fri Oct 06, 2017 11:01 pm

Not much progress over the summer. Mostly fixed boats and messed about at work. Never had the time but I'll hopefully find some more. I did get the rear axle refurbished with new seals and brakes. The drums were too far out of spec so they were replaced with new ones. The front axle needs brakes and the hubs reassembled. Then I'll have good axles but no solid chassis to put them under...

The issue I'm facing now is removing the old undercoating. My strategy right now is to use a Tiger torch and heat it up so it just sort of melts off. The frame just seems to be coated in tar. Is it even worth removing? Becuase underneath it is fresh paint so can I get away with just repainting the parts without the undercoating or should I spend a week taking it off? If it doesn't come off now it never will is my thought on it.
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I did discover a small crack in the frame underneath the body outrigger but it isn't from rust, most likely military abuse. The fuel tank outrigger will need replacing because it is bent very badly. The rear cross member has a dent in it which will need sorting. I have a new cross member but this one is held on so well I am afraid it will never be as strong as the original.
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On the subject of previous posts and their unviewable photos. When I find the time I'll switch all the photos over to a different hosting site that isn't Photobucket. I reckon they're doing this because people only use them for this photo linking feature nowadays. If you are using Google Chrome there is an extension you can download that bypasses this feature and makes all the old photos visible again. I'm quite annoyed by their decision.
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#21 Post by ANDYD » Sun Oct 08, 2017 12:07 pm

Hi Colin,

Good to see that progress is continuing...
It looks like it has had a good coating of thick underseal. Depending on how far you want to go, its probably best to remove it all as some sections may be hiding something you cant see. (rust / cracks / bad welds etc) On saying that, a lot depends on what you plan to do with it once complete. Another approach would be to give it a good high pressure power washing and then recoat the bare sections with a similar type of under coating.
I have a spare Series 2/3 chassis outrigger that the previous owner must of purchased before realising that Series 1's are different. Your welcome to it if its the correct one that you need. It is a right hand (passenger side) out rigger. I can email you a photo if your interested so you can compare.

Cheers,
Andy
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#22 Post by cbalme » Mon Oct 09, 2017 11:35 pm

Thanks for the input Andy, I think I'll pressure wash it and see how it turns out. I may be interested in the outrigger, does it have a plate around it or is it just the outrigger?
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#23 Post by ANDYD » Wed Oct 11, 2017 11:52 am

It does have plates on each side to assist with welding to the chassis...kind of like this one;
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#24 Post by cbalme » Thu Oct 12, 2017 9:58 pm

ANDYD wrote:It does have plates on each side to assist with welding to the chassis...kind of like this one;
Hi Andy, I don't think that's the one I need but thank you for the offer. My bulkhead outriggers are very solid on this frame.
Colin

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Colin and Victor's Brake Job

#25 Post by cbalme » Thu Oct 12, 2017 10:13 pm

Got the front brakes assembled with the help of Victor, I told him there was lucky so he even got there early!

We had a bit of trouble in the beginning because the shoe never wanted to stay in place. One of us had to try and hold the shoe while the other used the fancy tool that looks like a modified screwdriver. I thought there must've been a better way so I went and grabbed the clamps we use for welding and clamped the shoe to the backing plate. I think this method should be adopted by the Haynes Manual, because I don't think they tell you how to do it at all!

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In the next few days I'll get the hubs on and make 2 good freewheeling hubs out of the 4 alright ones I have lying around. After that the next step is to get a chassis to put over these axles.
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#26 Post by cbalme » Wed Oct 18, 2017 11:06 pm

On Sunday I headed up to Comox to help Rob free up some space in his garage by taking bulkhead off his hands. (It was also an excuse to see his truck again, which is coming along nicely.) This should save me a lot of time at the rate I'm getting things done. It only needs a few small repairs that could be left alone but I'm going to fix them for the purist in me.

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On the way back Victor and I made a detour to Horne Lake to see Dave's Series 2, which gave me even more inspiration to finish mine, maybe I'll have it on the road for the Rally in the Valley this year?

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Got the Hubs on the front Axle but had to remove one of the Freewheeling hubs to pack it with grease since I forgot to.

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I really should've followed in Andy's footsteps by assembling the axle lower to the ground, because I put it up there when it was light and then added a lot of weight to it. Luckily we own a backhoe (which may be slightly overkill) so we used that to pick the axle up and put it on the ground in front of the frame.

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I need to put the springs on the axles and get the frame powerwashed in the next few days

Image
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#27 Post by ANDYD » Thu Oct 19, 2017 7:36 pm

Good progress Colin .... and you have your wheels & tyres on before me ..... I better get a move on :bounce:
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#28 Post by cbalme » Fri Oct 20, 2017 1:53 pm

Hi Andy, I think we are about equal in progress. Unlike you I don't have a frame to put those axles under. I'm hoping to paint it before it gets too cold.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#29 Post by cbalme » Sun Oct 29, 2017 7:57 pm

Lots of progress on the frame today. I'm trying to get it done before it gets too cold to paint. Last weekend I gave the frame, engine and gearbox a good cleaning. Lots of that undercoating came off with a good pressure washing on max.

New body mounts for the 3 Door body

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Added supports which are similar to the original. They don't need to be pretty since I will never see them again.

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Made up a new plate to go where the old one was on the rear crossmember

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I also discovered that the front right frame rail is slightly bent, it shouldn't be too much of an issue though I hope :bounce:
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#30 Post by cbalme » Tue Nov 07, 2017 10:54 pm

Started switching over the old images from Photobucket to Imgur, if anyone is interested. I will finish that in the next few days.
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#31 Post by cbalme » Tue Nov 07, 2017 11:06 pm

Finally got the Chassis repairs complete. I just need to weld in the front tub mounts because I'm not too sure where they go.

Image

Painted the Rear Axle in the cold weather. I've got a feeling I'll be painting it again in the new year when it's warmer.
I also forgot to grease the Diff Pinion seal so I took that part today and gave them a generous greasing. I was told that if they went in dry they'd start leaking after a couple hundred miles.

Image

Removed all the old bushings. This turned out to be a terrible job which took much longer than anticipated. At first we used a Sawzall and a chisel, but the bushings were rusted in there very bad. Eventually, we ended up getting the torch out to heat them up, this worked quite nicely.

Pipe ready for the new Polybushes

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New vs. Old

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I don't think I will ever bother with standard bushings in the chassis again as they are much more of a hassle to get in and out than PolyBushes, even if they last half as long. They only take a few minutes to install and take out.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#32 Post by ANDYD » Wed Nov 08, 2017 9:04 am

Good progress Colin. I feel your pain with the chassis bushing removal. When I did mine I rigged up a length of threaded ready-rod and a couple of nuts and correct sized spacers was able to pull them out using an extended breaker bar... had to cut through the metal part first with a hacksaw before they would even think about moving. It wasn't any fun and took the best part of a weekend... bloody knuckles and lots of swear words :oops:
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#33 Post by cbalme » Thu Nov 09, 2017 10:30 pm

I was looking at your post to see how you did it. That was my backup plan if the torch didn't work. I ended up burning the centre bushing out and walking away so I didn't have to breathe too much in. It took the two of us a few hours. Swearing usually helps get them out I find.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#34 Post by DrRangelove » Fri Nov 10, 2017 10:53 pm

For ease of future replacement i went with polybushes too. I had an easier time getting the old ones out though - took about 30 mins each by torching out the rubber and centre sleeve, followed by hacksawing through the outer sleeve and drifting it out...

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#35 Post by DrRangelove » Fri Nov 10, 2017 10:54 pm

For ease of future replacement i went with polybushes too. I had an easier time getting the old ones out though - took about 30 mins each by torching out the rubber and centre sleeve, followed by hacksawing through the outer sleeve and drifting it out...

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#36 Post by cbalme » Mon Nov 13, 2017 7:21 pm

That was my original method as well but the outer sleeves were rusted badly into the outer. It was also the method I used on the 110 and it worked very well.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#37 Post by cbalme » Sun Nov 19, 2017 11:07 pm

Finally got around to painting the frame. It has only taken me a year and a half. Like Andy I used the POR-15 Three-Step Process.

Degreasing the Chassis

Image

Then waited a week for some time. I tried to heat the frame up by storing it in the Milk Tank Room.

Image

After that, I used the overpriced Phosphoric Acid to prep the frame then liberally rinsed it off with hot water.

Here it is, before being painted. The POR-15 metal prep didn't do much but I suppose it did something.

Image

After the first Coat

Image

Unfortunately. I bought the smallest tin they had because they told me it was enough. So I had to drive back to the store to buy a quart and that still wasn't enough. This means it has about one and a half coats on. Once I get the axles and some other bits on I'll give it a liberal waxing to prevent any more rust.
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#38 Post by ANDYD » Mon Nov 20, 2017 10:52 pm

Nice.... that's the worse bit done 8) , now you have a good foundation under your new beast!

Have you thought about internal chassis rust protection? I have just picked up a few tins of Eastwood Internal Chassis Coating, which comes in a aerosol can with a tube that you slide into holes in the chassis and the 360 deg nozzle sprays the inside as you pull it along the box sections as you spray.
It has some good reviews (made in the USA) and currently on sale at KMS tools $26, so I thought why not give it a try.
I will let you know how it goes...............
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-intern ... rosol.html

Cheers,
Andy
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#39 Post by DrRangelove » Tue Nov 21, 2017 7:35 pm

Looking good Colin - I wish I'd gone with POR for peace of mind also but I was lucky in that my frame had most of its original factory paint (probably why the bushes came out so easily lol). The waxoyl is a good call, as the POR-15 is sensitive to sunlight and can degrade over time if exposed...

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#40 Post by cbalme » Tue Nov 21, 2017 10:57 pm

Thanks for the input Andy and Dave.

I have thought about coating the chassis from the inside and planned on using something like that. Let me know how that turns out and I might give it a try as well.

My frame had a lot of the factory paint still on and the POR-15 metal prep etched it so it could be painted over.

I'm quite happy with the way the POR-15 turned out. I'm worried because in a few spots there are some air bubbles so I plan on redoing those when it's warmer. It may have been too moist or perhaps I put too much paint in those areas.

It was a good idea to remove those bushings before painting because that stuff would've welded them in!
Last edited by cbalme on Wed Nov 22, 2017 11:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#41 Post by cbalme » Tue Nov 21, 2017 11:58 pm

Have started to add bits, I'm getting excited!

Last night the first bits I added were the bump stops and Polybushes.
Image

I also filled the axles with oil and am happy to say they don't leak :)
Image

Tonight I got the Axles and the Steering relay installed.
Image

I am scared of large springs popping out at me so I decided not to take it apart. I put some oil in it the night before to loosen things up then tonight I swapped out the filler plug for a grease nipple and pumped it full of one shot grease. After smacking it around with a hammer for a while it was quite loose and could be moved freely by hand. When putting it back in I gave it a generous coating of anti-seize. I'm hoping the nipple will be easily accessible by only removing the grille.
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#42 Post by red90 » Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:32 am

FYI, if you put the POR-15 on top of other paint without using their primer, it will peel off in a year or two. It is very hard to get the stuff to stick to anything long term.

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cbalme
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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#43 Post by cbalme » Thu Nov 23, 2017 8:41 pm

Well I guess I will have to repaint it in a year or two then. The store didn't sell any sort of primer and on the tin it said to sand old paint to scuff it. That Metal Prep chemical made the old paint very rough so maybe that was to help bond it. Next time I go to paint something with the POR-15 I'll see if they have a primer.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#44 Post by cbalme » Sat Nov 25, 2017 8:55 pm

Got Quite a bit done last night. Put all the shocks on and put the Check Straps on.

One front shock cooperated with me but on the other side the bushings wouldn't move over far enough to fit the split pin. I got some woodworking clamps and pulled the washer towards the diff. That gave me enough space to fit it in nicely.

Image

I had quite a similar problem on the rear because we welded a washer on because the hole was worn out. This didn't give me enough thread to fit the nut on. We had to "modify" the bushing so it was smaller and would fit nicely.

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I used my Mum's leather hole punch to make bolt holes for the check straps. I may need to take them off and put larger washers on at some point so they last longer.

I'm a little concerned because I ended up with a few spare bits and bolts I can donate to the farm. I don't know what the Nyloc Nuts are for but the extra bushings, washers and split pins are leftovers from a SWB shock kit.

Image

So far it's coming together nicely. Not working on old rusty bits is nice for a change.

Image
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#45 Post by cbalme » Sat Nov 25, 2017 10:26 pm

All pictures are now visible if anyone's interested.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#46 Post by cbalme » Mon Nov 27, 2017 11:06 pm

On Saturday Night I got bored because there was nothing left to do on the chassis. I'll get the brake lines mounted on the axles at a later date. In the meantime, I'll take apart the engine and gearbox.

First I drained all the Oil. A bit of water came out so I'm hoping that was from when I gave it a wash. Pulled the Alternator and Water Pump out but broke a bolt. It was a pain to drill out because it was crumbling away since it was so rotten. We might've bodged it a bit so I may have to steal the timing cover off the other engine, haven't decided yet.

The Culprit
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What is this thing with the Teeth?
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Also Started Tinkering with the Gearbox but forgot to take photos. I was told this Transmission came from Stuarts 109. I was also told it popped out of third gear on the odd occasion so I will be making an effort to fix that issue. Other than the third gear problem I was told it was a reliable box so I'll take it apart a little bit and check for chips in teeth and anything unusual.

Do any of you have tips for removing the Handbrake drum? I think I undid all the bolts. It does not want to budge. I'll probably end up pulling the whole flange off.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#47 Post by oldgravy » Tue Nov 28, 2017 5:06 pm

I had to hit my handbrake drum a lot with an appropriately sized persuader.

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#48 Post by BuckBlue90 » Tue Nov 28, 2017 9:05 pm

Hi Colin,
Hope it was not our recent conflab that resulted in the bolt mishap.
I think the thing with teeth is for your timing. When you get the head off, check how TDC of #1 is aligned with the pointers on the bracket. After which you can measure your degrees before TDC for your static ignition timing.
Eric.

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#49 Post by cbalme » Wed Nov 29, 2017 8:54 pm

I think I will have to get a larger persuader then. I was only using the small one.

Eric, it was not your fault the bolt was made of sand. Your stud extractor did come in handy for removing studs.

Maybe those teeth are for the timing light? I'm not sure if I will take the head off so we may never know.
Colin

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Re: Oliver and Colin's 1960 Series II rebuild.

#50 Post by bsa_m21 » Thu Nov 30, 2017 10:02 am

Re timing marks:

You don't need to pull the head, just the rocker cover and all the sparkplug.
  • Get or borrow a TDC (top dead center) tool, about $12 from amazon (or way more from Lordco), that screws into a spark plug hole.
    Screw it into to the #1 sparkplug hole.
    Slowly rotate the engine clockwise till it stops (piston hits the probe). Mark the crank balancer/pulley, aligned to a know point on the timing cover. Turn it CCW until it just stops, mark balancer/pulley to the same point on the cover. Halfway between the two marks in a CW direction, is TDC.
    Attach a degree wheel to the balancer/pulley with 0 aligned to TDC.
    You will now be able to see where the indicator aligns to the correct advance marks and if needs to be adjusted adjusted.
I did the above on my '52 S1-80", and filed a slight groove into the pulley at 8 degrees BTDC (what my engine s/b set to at full retard). Then I attached an indicator wire (made from a thin stainless rod) to one of the bolts holding on the timing cover and aligned it to the groove. Now I don't have to try to fight with the little flywheel access panel on the bell housing, that is a real pain to get to, to time my engine.

Regards,

M.
Martin
=======
'52 S1 - Runcle
'96 Discovery 1 - Hothead
'80 Triumph TR7v8 (Rover 4L) - Myrtle

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